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Thread: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

  1. #451
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Quote Originally Posted by 46535A4A465D5D290 link=1181202738/449#449 date=1261287046
    Thanks Mal - will give that a whirl...she has been making the odd squeal for years since the run dry episode but got a whole lot worse recently. *I will change the filter with the existing pump in place and re-check.

    Cheers mate.
    Ahh,

    Could be the pump bearing then mate, especially if its associated with a continuous rumbling sound from the pump as well.... :(

    Mal.

  2. #452
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks Mal - she stopped mid pour this morning....argghh!! Then after a few spurts went back to 9 bar and finished the pour (which wasnt too bad considering). The pump and new filter is enroute and cannot get here fast enough!!

    Cheers

  3. #453
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    ...the pump had seized after the run dry fiasco, and I needed to lanotec the bearing and use pliers to free her up...so 2.5 years later she has done very well...

    Cheers

  4. #454
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    I did it all in a hurry Christmas morning after the pump started to stop again mid shot. *Changed the filter first with no difference. *Then out went the old pump and in with the new (did it in a hurry and no photos sorry - easy but fiddly job). *New pump has noticeably bigger bearing - interesting. *New pump has slotted fittings for the 2 bolts, the old one had holes. *New one a bit easier to fit because of slots. *Also installed the new anti-vac valve in the boiler so she is off for longer before the pressure-stat kicks in. * Did the group seals while I was at it and all back together. *Tested and she is JUST over 9 bar with one group going and about 9 bar or slightly less (a bees foot less) with both groups running together. *She fills the boiler quicker than before which is very sweet.

    All in all a very good couple of hours with the machine - merry Christmas Faema Due!

    And the taste...well with some PNG Guano Highlands 3 days post a very nice profile...bloody brilliant!

    Cheers all.

    PS. *Had another big gathering on Boxing Day and it performed very quietly and with gusto.

  5. #455
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Great to see Oz ;D

    Excellent result mate.... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

    Mal.

  6. #456
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks Mal - that was 9 bar out of the box...didnt have to adjust it.

    Cheers

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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Well done, Ozscott!

  8. #458
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Ok - I alternate my main group from left to right, but only every few months. The last time I used the left group was a few months ago for a big bash and since then I have been slack about cycling water through it like I normally do when a group is not being used as my main group...and now it puts out a bit of water (really just condensation I think) and then puffs steam out. I suspect a blocked jet. I am going to do a clean out with some compressed air gently, but is there anything else to look at. Could it be the three way valve?

    Cheers

  9. #459
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    bump....what happened to all the commercial owners... :)

    Cheers

  10. #460
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Ok...tackled this today. *I stripped down the left group - the 3 way solenoid valve and cleaned it all up. Took out the group head and cleaned it all out. *Took off the flow metre and it was all clean and nice. BUT...all back together, solenoid opening as it should but NO water at all coming out of the group head! *I have water coming up on the in-side of the flow metre and from there the out pipe goes down to boiler. *I can only assume that I have a blockage in the thermosyphon for this group that has not been used for a while. *When I blow compressed air into the water pipe from the flow metre that goes down into the boiler I do not get anything at all out of the in pipe at the group head...I would have thought that if water pressure would do that circuit, compressed air would also. * The other group works fine, and I was trying to avoid stripping the machine right down and re-building but maybe there is a big project for the summer holidays. *Any help appreciated.

    Cheers

    PS. You will pleased to know that the group head is 2.2kg of brass. Bit of trivia

  11. #461
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Gday Oz.... :)

    As you know, I dont own a machine similar to yours but it sounds awfully much as though the 3-Way Valve is not functioning. Even though you have cleaned it out and verified its operation manually, perhaps the Solenoid Coil itself has burnt out - not an uncommon thing to happen.

    If the valve was operating properly, you should be able to hear a definite "Click" sound when you activate the Brew Cycle. If you dont hear this, then a faulty coil is a possibility. Have a bit of play with the working Group to become familiar with the sound Im referring to and then try the faulty Group.

    We should be able to get this sorted out for you one way or another mate.... ;)

    Cheers,
    Mal.

  12. #462
    A_M
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Quote Originally Posted by 0E1B12020E1515610 link=1181202738/459#459 date=1281773822
    Ok...tackled this today. *I stripped down the left group - the 3 way solenoid valve and cleaned it all up. Took out the group head and cleaned it all out. *Took off the flow metre and it was all clean and nice. BUT...all back together, solenoid opening as it should but NO water at all coming out of the group head! *I have water coming up on the in-side of the flow metre and from there the out pipe goes down to boiler. *I can only assume that I have a blockage in the thermosyphon for this group that has not been used for a while. *When I blow compressed air into the water pipe from the flow metre that goes down into the boiler I do not get anything at all out of the in pipe at the group head...I would have thought that if water pressure would do that circuit, compressed air would also. * The other group works fine, and I was trying to avoid stripping the machine right down and re-building but maybe there is a big project for the summer holidays. *Any help appreciated.

    Cheers

    PS. *You will pleased to know that the group head is 2.2kg of brass. *Bit of trivia
    Sounds like a summer job ;D

    If get caught or need some assistance... Just yell ;)

    I got to get me another rebuild project and one where teh end product is something that I will want to keep AND the wife might consider it 8-)

  13. #463
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks AM - much appreciated. I might have to enlist your help at some stage because I suspect she will need a new element. I will use the other group for now and call it a summer job. I am kicking myself for not using that group. I am usually pretty good and running water through the one not presently being used, then swap over every few months (and when a crowd comes both groups get hammered).

    Cheers

    PS. Still thinking about a yak?

  14. #464
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Cheers Mal - I didnt see you post mate when I replied to AM..I will have another look. When the solenoid sits on the plunger shaft (if not bolted on if you know what I mean) it has enough grunt to pull itself towards the group...but it might not have enough power to pull the insides towards it...

    Cheers

  15. #465
    A_M
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Quote Originally Posted by 382D2434382323570 link=1181202738/463#463 date=1281775452
    Cheers Mal - I didnt see you post mate when I replied to AM..I will have another look. *When the solenoid sits on the plunger shaft (if not bolted on if you know what I mean) it has enough grunt to pull itself towards the group...but it might not have enough power to pull the insides towards it...

    Cheers
    Then it could well be just some crap causing teh slug to be locked in and not move etc...

    Take it slow and pull it apart and have a look..

    Any questions.. Just ask and toss up a pic ;)

  16. #466
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Mal - its making the proper click - the same as the right group. The plunger has a slot in it and an outer spring and an inner spring. When energised it moves the plunger inwards towards the group. Where it meets there are 2 holes. One that goes to the group shower and the other that goes into the thermosyphon circuit. I cant for the life of me picture what is going on inside it! If you could explain what is happening there that would be great. There is a grove along the whole plunger where you can see into the inner spring. I dont think the position of that matters because on the other side I had cleaned it out and then put it back in several positions and that made no difference.

    Cheers and many thanks.

  17. #467
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    I have the answer I think. On the right group with the solenoid removed the group will shoot water out the solenoid in hole....(ie to the inside of the machine) when the mains pressure is turned on (thats as I thought it should be). On the left it doesnt. I made sure all the galleys were clear in the group head and that included descale and compressed air. Further when I had the group off I turned on the water and no water came out of the large 3/8 copper tube from the boiler (either of them...) so I must have a blockage in the boiler or boiler fittings.

    Cheers

  18. #468
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Quote Originally Posted by 35202939352E2E5A0 link=1181202738/466#466 date=1281776956
    I have the answer I think. *On the right group with the solenoid removed the group will shoot water out the solenoid in hole....(ie to the inside of the machine) when the mains pressure is turned on (thats as I thought it should be). *On the left it doesnt. *I made sure all the galleys were clear in the group head and that included descale and compressed air. *Further when I had the group off I turned on the water and no water came out of the large 3/8 copper tube from the boiler (either of them...) so I must have a blockage in the boiler or boiler fittings.

    Cheers
    Hmmm...

    Would have to be a substantial blockage to cause the water flow to close off completely. Anyway mate, Id go with AMs offer to help out as hes got the tools and the know-how and should have it sussed out pretty quickly for you.

    All the best Oz..... :)

    Mal.

  19. #469
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks Mal ;)

  20. #470
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    I put in new orings into the 3 way valve plates on the right group...not leaking now (the old ones were shot when I put in back together). The right group is working again (the left is still no - solenoid clicks in and holds but no water). The only thing is that the right groups solenoid is making some funny noises as though its cavitating - but not every time. The group is pouring properly. Is there a particular way the solenoid valve piston needs to be placed inside the solenoid valve cylinder (ie I am talking about the mechanical parts here not the electric bits)...ie does the groove in the piston need to be placed exactly on the 3mm odd hole that leads to the group shower outlet? I suppose it should and perhaps mine is offset a little. I might rip it off again and have a look because its easy to do. I like how easy this old girl is to work on.

    Cheers

  21. #471
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Quote Originally Posted by 2D3831212D3636420 link=1181202738/469#469 date=1282170324
    The only thing is that the right groups solenoid is making some funny noises as though its cavitating - but not every time.
    Gday again Oz.... :)

    That noise is probably just buzzing due to the solenoid armature faces not aligning perfectly or the presence of some foreign matter that is preventing the faces from seating home properly - usually this is fine iron particles that wear off the faces after thousands of duty cycles. Easily removed by wiping off with a clean cloth wrapped around a strong-ish magnet.....

    All this needs to be done with the mains plug removed from the wall socket of course, before commencing. Cant help out with the rest though Im sorry.... :(

    Mal.

  22. #472
    A_M
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Quote Originally Posted by 5C4940505C4747330 link=1181202738/469#469 date=1282170324
    The right group is working again (the left is still no - solenoid clicks in and holds but no water). *The only thing is that the right groups solenoid is making some funny noises as though its cavitating - but not every time.
    AND

    Quote Originally Posted by 775A5E525F330 link=1181202738/470#470 date=1282216065
    That noise is probably just buzzing due to the solenoid armature faces not aligning perfectly or the presence of some foreign matter that is preventing the faces from seating home properly - usually this is fine iron particles that wear off the faces after thousands of duty cycles. Easily removed by wiping off with a clean cloth wrapped around a strong-ish magnet.....
    Mal is always on teh button..

    ozscott.. If ya need hands on assistance... Just PM me.

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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    that model due is well over 5 years old more like 8-10, those touch panels havnt been used for quite some time, 350 is still a good buy. but they run a completly different board to the current one, which is a cimbali/faema hybrid (cimbali owning faema) and that board is $780 from vittoria just be weary they are nottorius for going and no manual switches.

  24. #474
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks very much Mal. I am not going to pull apart the solenoid itself as apart from the triggering area on top its all sealed up by the looks of things. So I will keep running her (she is making great shots out of the right group :)) and see if it settles down.

    Thanks very much AM - I will give you a bell later in the year if yo are about when I am looking at stripping her down to see what you reckon. The board is working properly, the flow meter is clear and the solenoid is pulling in nice and hard, and the head is clear, so I am thinking that a blockage is the answer, but your help would be good cause I am pretty happy with the idea of a strip down.

    Saturatedbrewing - thanks mate. This is a 1995 Due, so she is 15 years old. I am aware of the odd pressurepad going awol. With a lagged boiler mine is still a great machine even with one group working, but if one or more of the pads eventually went, and assuming I couldnt have the pad fixed, I would put in place a simple manual brew switch to trigger the pump and solenoid (the flow meter would be disconnected electrically) and she would me a manual Due instead of a volumetric due. From memory Sparky or someone who used to be a regular here did the same with a Cimbali or similar. I would not spend $750 odd on a board because its not being used commercially.

    I have had this machine for a little over 2 years. I love it. The other day when she was off for 2 days awaiting o-rings my wife and I were out of sorts in the kitchen. Cause its normally on 24/7 and makes noises and radiates heat, without it it was like a wake. We use it all the time for tea, and boiling water for veges etc all the time apart from straight coffee.

    I had to replace the rotary pump a while back, but that was my fault for running the original dry and cooking the impeller. I have also done the pressurestat diaphragm, a new anti-vac valve, steam wand and group head seals (group head every 3-4 months normally), lagged the boiler and set the pressure using the pullman brew pressure gauge. I think thats all.

    Cheers

  25. #475
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Ok.....at times the left group is flowing quite well for a few seconds and there is a little squeal at times from where the flowmeter is by the sound of it...and then after a few seconds it intermittent flow she stops and goes to steam...so I am thinking that perhaps as said above its the flow meter. *When I took the meter apart the impeller looked good, there was no scale and the impeller spun nicely. *Is there a test for a flow meter apart from lack of water flow that I can do myself...? They are $160 odd new from Pedro so I am keen to test mine/service mine if I can.

    Cheers

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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    what about taking the impeller out and just seeing what happens?

    it should still pump water but without volumetric and you can use the buttons full manual?

    i am thinking this will indicate if it is the impeller or another restriction

    but i am thinking its not really the flow-meter causing the issue...


  27. #477
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks mate I will give it a go...Cheers

  28. #478
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    You could swap the two flowmeters out to see if the left one is indeed dodgy to test before you buy new, or just swap the impellers.

    I have an old Gicar flowmeter that worked perfectly apart from me breaking one of the contacts on top off. If you want, I can pop it in the post for you if you think it will help. There is a pic of it in this thread: http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1242303497 . PM me if you want it.

  29. #479
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Thanks Nico...I had thought about swapping them over, but I wanted to test it without doing that - letting sleeping dogs snooze and all that. Thanks for the offer too, thats very kind. I will let you know.

    Cheers and thanks again.

    Oz

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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Do you perhaps have an opv somewhere on that group that could be causing this. I had an issue with a faulty opv that caused the water in the heat exchanger to empty out causing brew head steam issues and thermosyphon stalls etc. Worth checking out may be your three way valves too.

  31. #481
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Re: FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

    Hi Nico - pressure for the groups, as far as I can tell, is regulated only at the pump via an OPV. I stripped down the 3 way and cleaned it out and cleaned out the head and blew compressed air into all the galleries and they seemed clear. I put new o-rings into the 3 way block. I pulled the plunger out of the solenoid and its all good to look and makes a satisfying clunk as it pulls in....thanks for you help matey and any further help always appreciated. I will have to strip it down again and try out various things as recommended. One thing that may help with a diagnosis is that this morning when I hit the start button the group pulsed water...as though it was pressuring on and off...very odd and the flow was only a third of what it should be and then it stopped completely and had only steam after the first few seconds...

    Cheers

  32. #482
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Hi good people,

    I never ended up doing anything to the group that stopped running water through it...slack I know, but I get by with the single group.

    Unfortunately the right hand group has slowly reduced the water flow - it is now doing 60mls in 35 seconds with no basket/coffee etc...and pulses a little in flow also. I dont know if it suffering the same fate as the left hand group and simply doesnt run or whether it is a different problem. I have also been noticing that when the main pump activates to refill the boiler the pressure needle for the pump bounces which is a recent thing...so Im thinking maybe the inline filter is throttling the pump...I have been slack with that too and its a few years old!! Arghh...life getting in the way of proper machine maintenance!

    I will replace the filter and see how that goes, otherwise it looks like maybe a flow meter. I will take it apart and see if it is serviceable and do the left group also if things dont improve. As a matter of interest what sought of volume are people getting from their machines in 35 seconds with just water flushing?

    Cheers and thanks
    Oz

  33. #483
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    I think it may actually be a combination of the filter and the solenoid coil for the 3 way valve. The coils are pretty cheap and $24 or so, so I will get one and see how it goes - will post back on the results.

    Cheers

  34. #484
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    Water filter. Replace and all should be well

  35. #485
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Ok - new water filter in. Cleaned out the pump that had some black water in it (I think from the carbon from the filter breaking down... Still no go. I replaced a group head solenoid coil on the 3 way valve...still no water at all out of the group. I then made sure the pump was pumping (its a near new pump in commercial terms) and it is properly. I then took off fittings between the pump and the main tap solenoid control that runs water to fill the boiler and also supplies water via a smaller pipe to the flow meters and from there the heat exchanger and from there back to the groups. I got as far as the flow meters and cracking the inlet side they are under pressure even without the pump running, from the normal water pressure. The outlet side of the flow meters likewise is pressurised to the same extent when the meters are not turning. Now my understanding is that the meters are just impellers that send volume information to the printed circuit brain to shut down the group when the volumetric buttons are activated. So they will no impede flow - 2 things here; 1. very unlikely that both would go out to lunch at the same time and 2. there is significant pressure on the outlet side of the meter, so there can be no impediment to water flow through them. I then took the top plug nuts off the groups and detached the pipes from the heat exhanger at the groups...no water flow at all when the pump is is off and none when it is activated...

    So...my blockage must be inside the boiler in the pipes that wind through the heat exchanger body? I guess i am up for a Christmas strip down and overhaul jobbie...is it normal for the heat exchanger pipes to block over time even with filters in place? How is the HX pipe (presumably a coil of pipe) descaled...soaking in citric acid/nitric acid?

    Cheers
    Last edited by ozscott; 1st December 2012 at 06:54 PM.

  36. #486
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    Bump.... There are plenty of people on this site with experience with this I reckon...

    Many thanks

  37. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I got as far as the flow meters and cracking the inlet side they are under pressure even without the pump running, from the normal water pressure. The outlet side of the flow meters likewise is pressurised to the same extent when the meters are not turning. Now my understanding is that the meters are just impellers that send volume information to the printed circuit brain to shut down the group when the volumetric buttons are activated. So they will no impede flow - 2 things here; 1. very unlikely that both would go out to lunch at the same time and 2. there is significant pressure on the outlet side of the meter, so there can be no impediment to water flow through them. I then took the top plug nuts off the groups and detached the pipes from the heat exhanger at the groups...no water flow at all when the pump is is off and none when it is activated...

    So...my blockage must be inside the boiler in the pipes that wind through the heat exchanger body? I guess i am up for a Christmas strip down and overhaul jobbie...is it normal for the heat exchanger pipes to block over time even with filters in place? How is the HX pipe (presumably a coil of pipe) descaled...soaking in citric acid/nitric acid?

    Cheers
    The flowmeters can impede flow, as on many machines they have jets and filters on the inlets which can block - can't remember if a Due has them. When you removed the 'plug nuts' off the groups did you remove the gauze filters and jets? This is the most common spot for a blockage to occur. In all the machines I have worked on over the years I have only ever had one that blocked up inside the heat exchanger - it was a San Marino that blocked in the elbow fitting at the bottom of the heat exchanger. Not sure if a Due has similar fittings as I haven't worked on one in the last couple of years.
    The way I'd approach diagnosing the fault is to either work forwards along the water path, loosening and retightening joints until you get to a spot where there is no water pressure/leakage, then dismantle the fittings at that point to find the blockage. Or do it the other way round (I usually do it this way as it's less messy) by working backwards from the head until you find water pressure.

    You can descale the machine without dismantling it, by running descale solution through the heads, but obviously this won't work if there is zero flow through the heads. Sometimes the best solution is to find and clean out the blockage, then reassemble and descale.

  38. #488
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MorganGT View Post
    The flowmeters can impede flow, as on many machines they have jets and filters on the inlets which can block - can't remember if a Due has them. When you removed the 'plug nuts' off the groups did you remove the gauze filters and jets? This is the most common spot for a blockage to occur. In all the machines I have worked on over the years I have only ever had one that blocked up inside the heat exchanger - it was a San Marino that blocked in the elbow fitting at the bottom of the heat exchanger. Not sure if a Due has similar fittings as I haven't worked on one in the last couple of years.
    The way I'd approach diagnosing the fault is to either work forwards along the water path, loosening and retightening joints until you get to a spot where there is no water pressure/leakage, then dismantle the fittings at that point to find the blockage. Or do it the other way round (I usually do it this way as it's less messy) by working backwards from the head until you find water pressure.

    You can descale the machine without dismantling it, by running descale solution through the heads, but obviously this won't work if there is zero flow through the heads. Sometimes the best solution is to find and clean out the blockage, then reassemble and descale.
    Thanks Morgan - there were no blockages when I removed the cover plugs from the groups and the gauze was good...I checked both sides of the flow meter, but didnt try the elbow fitting on the boiler. I will have look...I assumed that because this fitting was larger diameter than the flow metres internals that if it was going to block it wouldnt do it at the elbows, but I shouldnt assume anything.

    Thanks for your help.

    Cheers

  39. #489
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MorganGT View Post
    The flowmeters can impede flow, as on many machines they have jets and filters on the inlets which can block - can't remember if a Due has them. When you removed the 'plug nuts' off the groups did you remove the gauze filters and jets? This is the most common spot for a blockage to occur. In all the machines I have worked on over the years I have only ever had one that blocked up inside the heat exchanger - it was a San Marino that blocked in the elbow fitting at the bottom of the heat exchanger. Not sure if a Due has similar fittings as I haven't worked on one in the last couple of years.
    The way I'd approach diagnosing the fault is to either work forwards along the water path, loosening and retightening joints until you get to a spot where there is no water pressure/leakage, then dismantle the fittings at that point to find the blockage. Or do it the other way round (I usually do it this way as it's less messy) by working backwards from the head until you find water pressure.

    You can descale the machine without dismantling it, by running descale solution through the heads, but obviously this won't work if there is zero flow through the heads. Sometimes the best solution is to find and clean out the blockage, then reassemble and descale.
    As with your experience Morgan those u bends and fittings were blocked. Flow meters were clean. I don't know what the plastic 3. 5 inch plastic tubes are for that come out of the HX with the fittings but I assume it's to source water high up in the exchanger. The scale was that hard it needed to be carefully drilled out. Machine is running beautifully on both groups now. Flow is great. I will leave the boiler as is until a full strip down in a few years time and just keep the new filters up to it.

    Cheers

    Cheers

  40. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I don't know what the plastic 3. 5 inch plastic tubes are for that come out of the HX with the fittings but I assume it's to source water high up in the exchanger.
    Machines that have 'extension' tubes (either plastic or copper) leading into the heat exchangers have them as a way of fine tuning the temperature of the brew water - if it is fed into the heat exchanger higher up, it travels a shorter distance while being heated before reaching the head, thus comes out cooler. Some CMA machines have the tube feeding down from the head into the heat exchanger, thus taking the water out of the HX earlier, achieving the same result. Most likely the manufacturers establish the exact lengths to use by testing after the first few machines of a new model are built, which would save redesigning more major components (like the heat exchanger itself). A bit of fiddling around with tube lengths should allow a specific brew temperature to be achieved with a specific boiler pressure.

  41. #491
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Ok I cannot believe that I have had this girl for over 9 years now. She is well and truly Due (no pun intended) for a clean and descale. I have done my own servicing on the machine including pressurstat, cleaning the feeder pipes to the head, pump and pump adjustment etc. Any tips for a full strip down and clean? Unfortunately the plastic sides are a bit cracked due to the extra stress of the boiler lagging so when removed I will glue them and make sure the lagging no longer interferes with the covers (unless someone could craft up some stainless ones...). I will take it all part and clean the boiler and all pipework - taking photos and notes as I go...

    Looking forward to it - big Christmas jobby.

    Cheers
    Dimal, greencardigan and 260zman like this.

  42. #492
    Senior Member ozscott's Avatar
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    Pressurestat has got lazy and is now almost non-existent in operation - it only turns off the contacts after the pressure relief valve has been activated. So she is shut off until Pedro at Coffeeparts can confirm the correct part. Cheers
    Dimal likes this.

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