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Thread: Atomic restorers thread

  1. #101
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    perhaps that locking screw is only there to keep the brass rod aligned vertically?

    Does the little red ball turn like a knob or lift up and down? When you froth the milk do you do anything with that little red ball?

    Also Petter I sent you a PM- I am not sure if you realise it but coffeesnobs has an email service. If you click on your profile you should be able to see any messages you have received.

  2. #102
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    It is controlled by the pressure and can let steam out, it has a weght in the bottom so that it stays down when the pressure is lower. Perhaps it helps the the steam pipe to increase in pressure?

    Best regards

  3. #103
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    Thanks Petter,

    that narrows it down. I could just be an additional safety pressure release valve- like on a pressure cooker. Or it could also act to increase the pressure of the water as it goes through the coffee. This would also have the affect of increasing the pressure for steaming...

    All in all a wonderful variant of the Atomic design.

    thanks for posting these images it is much appreciated.

  4. #104
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    I have the last few times experienced some difficulties getting enough pressure in the atomic. The coffee extracts alright but when I am about to heat the milk the pressure is to low. Perhaps the seals are to old and I should wait until the new ones arrive?!
    I also tried with very very fine milled coffee and packed it a bit harder. The machine didnīt even seem to be able to handle it. How much water is recommended and how fine should the coffee be??

    I did get really nice pressure the first times I used it, now the steam is coming out of the brewing head as well. Must be the seals.

    I think I need some brewing advice since it doesnīt seem to work as a regular espresso machine. :-?

    Best regards
    Petter

  5. #105
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    Hello there Petter,

    the machine will not work like a regular espresso machine. It is designed to operate at around 1.3 Bar of pressure and no more. So when packing and grinding you should never grind so fine (powdery) that the coffee cannot flow out, or only dribbles out very slowly, whilst steam escapes from the release valve (usually found) in the black knob.

    Grind like fine white sugar- and only tamp moderately- or just smooth over the top of the coffee.

    The next issue is the filter baskets: original Italian baskets have large holes in them. For these baskets you need to get the grind and tamp just right: the coffee should flow out smoothly in a steady stream. It shouldnt rush out- or dribble out. You are looking for the middle road which I suspect applies to all coffee machines :-) After oyu have made the coffee on aa normal atomic the coffee itself acts as a plug allowing pressure to build for frothing the milk. If the coffee is too coarse you wont get much pressure for frothing. If it is too fine it will dribble out and be burnt tasting. Get it just right and it can be close to a true espresso- with some crema. Get it half right and it will be like a good Moka pot.

    Also good tip is to start with less water in the machine: use only half an (atomic) jug of water as a measure. This will make a smaller more espresso like coffee- around two or three serves.

    Alternatively: You can use a new stainless baskets with smaller holes- and this makes it easier to get good pressure for milk steaming and more crema in the espresso. You must take care with these baskets not to use powdery coffee at all.

    On your machine it seems that the steam ball/weight is essentially a secondary pressure release valve. This may complicate matters if it is stopping the machine getting to full pressure.

    By looking into the machine at the back can you see if the device on the neck attaches to the inner water tube that runs up inside the Atomic body? If it does (as a valve) there could be more to the device than simply a safety release valve. It could act as a pressure sensitive valve- only letting the water into the head of the machine when it reaches a specified pressure... This would make it a brew pressure increasing device.

    When you make coffee does it release steam during the process? Does the ball suddenly move when the coffee starts to come out?

    New seals and so on should help your machine and stop any leaks. What is the condition of the black knob part? Is it worn? Are there any leaks from the Milk steam arm part of the machine? Is the machine clean looking on the inside?


  6. #106
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    Itīs like a little bit of steam is released through the black knob when brewing, and lately the machine has had a hard time building the pressure for the steaming. It doesnīt leak through the steam pipe. The coffee that comes out is really good. I must admit that i have tried with really fine milled coffee but that didnīt work out.
    I will try some more with less water i think. The inside seems fresh but perhaps the knob is a little worn. Itīs hard to tell.

    Sometimes while brewing the knob on top releases steam, but thats perhaps only if you have packed it to hard.

  7. #107
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    looks like someone has just drilled a hole and put a spanner socket in then used one of the group steam stem blockers. but yeah..the red knob is smaller...mmm

  8. #108
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    hi guys, i can across an iteresting variation in a standard brevetti robbiati. The sandcast either didnt turn out ok or it was an earlier mold. in any case it is an original atomic.

    The head filter plate "screw retaining poles" are usually long and cast as the original mould.I guess they are then drilled and tapped.

    In the case of this atomic the "screw retaining poles" are much shorter. definitely not altered from the original sand casting! They then have screw tapped brass pipes..very unusual...

    dave


  9. #109
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    I have actually seen these before-though as you say they are highly uncommon. I think I can only remember one and I must have restored 50+ Atomics over the years.

  10. #110
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    what do you think? Is it a sandcasting error? or just trying another method...? Im pretty sure its a save from a bad casting...froma collectors point of view,as you say very rare as this mod (fix) was done in the robbiati factory...

    Its strange to me why they just didnt remelt it and just cast again though...the most labour intensive part is the tap,polish and finish i would imagine...

    dave

  11. #111
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    Also near the steam insert you can see a hairline fracture...It does in no way seem to effect the functioning of the device...have you come across this before? Im wondering in the case of significant cracks if "aluminium welding " is an option...there is a product called alumiweld that would do the job..just like soldering actually...

    dave

  12. #112
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    I noticed that crack in you picture. I dont remember ever seeing one like that before. That part of the head is very thick- and at a guess I would say the crack developed when the machine cooled after casting. If it doesnt leak through the top at all I would say it probably doesnt matter...

    I have no experience welding alloy- I have heard it is difficult. Is that product a type of two-pack metal glue? With your machine I wouldnt bother doing anything unless it leaks.

  13. #113
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    Re: Atomic restorers thread

    Hi guys, I have a question i bet cant be answered but i hope someone can!

    I need to know the thread type for the steam wand arm. I know its half inch (1/2) diameter but I think there are other things to consider. I went to bunnings and used there thread size checker in the bolts department...There is fine and regular thread (classified by blue or red) but it doent seem to really perfectly fit either....

    well..this is the challenge...dave

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dahlstrom View Post
    Hi!
    I just bought this coffee maker from a fleamarket. Didnīt cost me much and it seems to work fine.
    My machine has a small ventilation pipe on the top, havenīt seen that on any other.
    Would be very intresting find out something more about it, if there are any experts here?

    Very thankfull for information!

    Best regards
    Petter Dahlström

    Sweden, Gothenburg
    Hej Petter -
    I actually have one with an extra steam valve/safety valve as well - however, mine is not directly into the body of the machine, but more on the side, as the steam arm is. Have you gathered much information about the models with that extra valve?
    I am trying to post pictures but somehow I am not allowed to, it seems..

    -Christian, Copenhagen, Denmark-

  15. #115
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    Atomic_1.jpgAtomic_2.jpgAtomic_3.jpg
    I managed to upload the pics!
    Please note the extra arm opposite the steam arm. Like Petters, it occasionally sprouts small drops of water when brewing.
    My black knob leaks a bit of water when brewing as well, small dribbles down the handle of the machine. I reckon a new seal would help a lot.

    -BR-
    Christian

  16. #116
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    I have just pulled my precious machine out of the cupboard after a 'little break' to discover the black knob is well and truly stuck.
    I read your comments below - do you have a secret way to undo?
    I hope so.
    I look forward to hearing from you.

    Quote Originally Posted by sorrentinacoffee View Post
    for descaling I use citric acid powder. Use one teaspoon mixed in boiling water and completely fill the machine. Allow to sit for 10 minutes. Shake like crazy for a few minutes. Then put it on the stove and run a brew with no coffee on low heat. Rinse well. Repeat if necessary. Really hard scale may require something more aggressive. In an extreme case you can use ball bearings- you put them in the machine and shake like mad- this can help break up the scale.

    Vintage atomics can have bad scale if they were left for a long time with water inside and the black knob in place. However it can almost always be cleaned away (note to all Atomic owners: Never leave the machine full of water and coffee grounds! Clean and empty the machine immediately after use! Leave the black knob off the machine (in the coffee jug) when the machine is not being used- allow the boiler to remain dry when in storage. By following these rules your machine will remain in tip-top condition).

    what is the condition of the black water/safetly knob? On old machines this part can be worn- check the spring valve to ensure it is working well.

    I notice your bakelite jug handle is pretty burned and damaged- send me an email if you are after a perfect replacement part.

    If you did decide to polish- use Autosol- available at auto restoration places.

  17. #117
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    Hi, I've just joined the forum - picked up an Atomic that was in pretty bad shape and am currently restoring it - It's a red painted Bon trading unit, but i'm probably going to strip whats left of the paint and spend a thousand hours sanding and polishing it... Or, if I get sick sanding it, I might hit it with a coat of VHT wrinkle paint in Black (or maybe red wrinkle - like Ferrari cam covers).
    I'm going to need to PM Sorrentina about some spares for it.... as per expected I broke the steam valve housing trying to undo it, the Bakelite filler knob has seen better days, and the cup is missing...
    Is the bung with the square socket really removeable?

  18. #118
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    I got my new (old) atomic in the post today. Picked it up for $200, but needs alot of love.

    Am waiting on sorrentina to reply to my pm to see if he can hook me up.
    Plan is to strip it down and polish the heck out of it so it has a mirror like finish, and that way I can admire my good looks while I brew some black gold.

    Broken bits : The actual steam valve pin is snapped, so I need new of those. I can salvage the steam ball handle atleast!



    I have my work cutout for me..Funnily enough, the red ones i've seen have a rough finish, this one is smooth....






    This actually looks decent.


  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by oohsam View Post
    I got my new (old) atomic in the post today. Picked it up for $200, but needs alot of love.

    Am waiting on sorrentina to reply to my pm to see if he can hook me up.
    Plan is to strip it down and polish the heck out of it so it has a mirror like finish, and that way I can admire my good looks while I brew some black gold.

    Broken bits : The actual steam valve pin is snapped, so I need new of those. I can salvage the steam ball handle atleast!

    I have my work cutout for me..Funnily enough, the red ones i've seen have a rough finish, this one is smooth....

    This actually looks decent.
    I watched that one on evilbay - couldn't tell in the pics, but it's fairly obvious in these pics that someone has decided to paint a polished one - very badly at that. I'm currently sanding back one that was originally painted and can tell you that they are *very* rough and there's hours of sanding to get them polishable.
    You're going to be better off emailing laSorrentina - I emailed him after he didn't respond to my pm, and got a quick response. He's in the middle of moving premesis and his online shop is offline - I'm waiting for it to come back so i can order some parts too!

  20. #120
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    Ah cheers thanks for the advice!

    Yeah I been watching then for many weeks but all been selling for much more than I want to pay for a project.
    The paint on this is definatley NOT original, i gathered that much.
    I'm hoping under the pain there is an Atomic badge, but I highly doubt it. And if so, I dont know if i'll be able to save it.

    One thing I cant find is the steam pin....I'll email him now and see what he comes up with .

    Cheers!

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by oohsam View Post
    Ah cheers thanks for the advice!

    Yeah I been watching then for many weeks but all been selling for much more than I want to pay for a project.
    The paint on this is definatley NOT original, i gathered that much.
    I'm hoping under the pain there is an Atomic badge, but I highly doubt it. And if so, I dont know if i'll be able to save it.

    One thing I cant find is the steam pin....I'll email him now and see what he comes up with .

    Cheers!
    I paid significantly less for my project - but it's minus the cup and it's generally much rougher - had less paint on it though!
    LaSorrentina has all the steam valve parts - although I suspect his pin might need you to use his valve body - which isn't a bad thing because he re-engineered the seals to get rid of the problematic paper/fibre gaskets and replaced them with a good silicone o-ring.

    Ben

  22. #122
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    Atomic Newbie but obsessed - Broken Steam assembly

    Hi There,

    Been reading through the threads and hope somebody can help me with my problem.

    I recently in a stroke of genius (or madness if you speak to my better half) bought not 1 but 2 used Atomics.
    As with a lot of things I get myself into I act first and learn quickly afterwards, such as that the units are available new for the same price I paid
    But if I had have donethat I wouldn't have had the pleasure of learning, disassembling and breaking a machine all within a week.

    Cut a long story both machines had already been restored and worked fine, but one worked really well the other not so.
    Therefore a decided to start fiddling and now I have broken the steam arm assembly and have what is remaining stuck in the body of the Atomic. Please help, how can I get this out and not destroy the thread in the Atomic in the process ?

    Cheers

  23. #123
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    Yep. Been there done that! Use a screw remover set. Go to Bunnjngs and they will show u. They are a tapered looking drill that has a reverse thread on it. As u tighten it it losens what it grabs with the teeth tbst grab and loosen the stuck device. Very easy and u will use it again!

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeOCD View Post
    Hi There,

    Been reading through the threads and hope somebody can help me with my problem.

    I recently in a stroke of genius (or madness if you speak to my better half) bought not 1 but 2 used Atomics.
    As with a lot of things I get myself into I act first and learn quickly afterwards, such as that the units are available new for the same price I paid
    But if I had have donethat I wouldn't have had the pleasure of learning, disassembling and breaking a machine all within a week.

    Cut a long story both machines had already been restored and worked fine, but one worked really well the other not so.
    Therefore a decided to start fiddling and now I have broken the steam arm assembly and have what is remaining stuck in the body of the Atomic. Please help, how can I get this out and not destroy the thread in the Atomic in the process ?

    Cheers
    HAHAHAHA I was just about to ask this very question, as I am in the exact same ham fisted knuckles and thumbs repairer. After breaking the chromed brass fitting I searched the net, hindsight being the beautiful thing it is, should have searched before opening tool box.......

    I had a fair amount of force on the spanner on the flats to try and loosen this, not sure an easy out will work. I guess I should soak a little olive oil in there to act as a penetrant??? not keen on using WD40 or any other petroleum based penetrators.

    Second question I had, is there a replacement part available?

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/u87ch98cpj...630_201028.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #125
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    Edit, just found LaSorrentia site, Do I need to get the whole steam valve assembly, or can I just use the fitting, so I can keep some of the patina???

    Any help muchly appreciated. Yes MUCHLY is a word, I just used it!

  26. #126
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    New to the coffee forums!

    Just picked up my second atomic.
    going to give it a tidy up and new seal kit from bon trading.
    mostly apart except for the steam knob and the screws from the head (need to find my smaller screw driver for this), iv taken the screw out but no dice getting the ball/handle off (bottom of first picture)

    is it just a case of pulling?

    Here is a picture of both of them, has anyone full polished theirs? if not, is there any reason not to do so?
    my original one came in much better condition, both groups, and minimal scale and scum inside. no real leaks or air escaping that I can see .

  27. #127
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    Hi Sorrentina,

    Will the filter plate from from a 3 cup moka machine work on the Atomic? This way there is no need for the pop rivets.

    BTW Fantastic thread

    Kind Regards

    Tony

  28. #128
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    Hello - new to this group. I own a classic, brown Atomic Milano bought in Montreal in the mid-1990s. Is anyone aware of where I can buy parts for it in Canada or the USA? I see a supplier in Australia but the postal rates will kill me. Thank you in advance for any info.

    Jacmtl

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by sorrentina View Post
    Hello there Mike,

    actually if you have a Model B- then chances are that white rubber seal is the original factory one- and has been there since the early 1950s... I have had to remove them from a few machines including my little B model. Basically it sucks! you need to find some sharp stabbing instruments (a jewelers screwdriver is a good start) and work away at it- and at it- and at it and then some more, and finally some more. I found once you have broken away a lot of it a little water and detergent helps breaking up the last bits.
    I've just worked at this chore with a model B Sassoon Atomic that had never been used to brew coffee. When the seal softened under heat it actually started gluing itself to the filter basket. When the seal cooled, it was hard but not rock hard. So I found myself with a somewhat hardened seal that had glued itself to the shower plate and the inside of the brew group. Careful scraping and gouging with a pick for an hour removed most of the old seal. I was able to remove the shower screen and scrub off the remainder of glued gasket with a scouring pad. One of the "nice" parts of this job was that on my Atomic, the groove that seats the portafilter gasket dips back. The sides aren't vertical. So I gouged what I could there too. I left some residue in place and will install once of Jack's silicone gaskets when it arrives. Meanwhile I was able to try brewing with some similar size gaskets I had in the drawer. There was a little leakage around the edges of the portafilter and I almost choked the machine with too fine a grind. But coffee started brewing. Unfortunately the sides of the portafilter got scraped a little because the portafilter gasket I used may not be as thick and cushy as the silicone ones.

  30. #130
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    I was just given a model B Atomic with steam capability, manufactured by Robbiati in Milan. When I first tried it, no water came through, only steam around the periphery of the group. I did a thorough descale using 50/50 water/white vinegar, because citric acid can harden into its own deposits. After removing the shower screen I found lots of white crystals. So after several runs of descaling and cleansing water, I've been able to brew and steam with it quite nicely. I've wanted to remove the boiler plug to make sure the pipe is thoroughly clean, but was unable to do that. It appears to be fastened into an aluminum lock washer. If that's not the issue, I'm not sure what is. See the two concentric rings around it. The machine is functioning well otherwise, so there may be no need to do anything more. However the manual for the Sassoon Atomic recommends removing the plug periodically to clean out the inner pipe.

    Robbiati Atomic Plug.jpg

    As a comparison, here is the plug on my Sassoon model B Atomic, a machine which has barely been used.

    Sassoon Atomic Plug.jpg

  31. #131
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    Guidday all. Just discovered this site. Looks like hours of fun reading.
    I have picked up an Atomic, in need of some love and fettling for about $300 on Trade Me in NZ.
    The Black water tap is stuck (The plywood gentle wrench idea sounds fun), and filter/head bit is missing(sounds easy to replace as no broken screws stuck in there). The steam valve seems ok, but I haven't pulled anything apart yet.
    I can't wait to post some photos, order parts, and fix it up.
    Thankfully I have an Otto, so will be able to make great coffee during the journey. Ive been up since 330am, reading through posts here for 2 hours now. Sky is starting to lighten up and the birds are singing. Time to go n make a coffee. Have a great weekend everyone!

  32. #132
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    Hi all - new here.

    I'm cleaning up an Atomic from the in-laws. I've got the gasket set from Bon.

    Could someone please help me? How does the steam arm brass shaft come out of the steam arm body? There are three plastic washers and one brass washer that should be fitted to the shaft. But gotta get it out first.

    Is it just a straight pull and I need to have a firmer grip and pull with a little more force?

    Many thanks in advance,
    Ian

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    Recently, I scored a Bon Trading Atomic in NZ for $300 on Trade Me. Sadly it had a stuck filler knob, and missing gaskets etc. I went online to find the best way to unstick the knob, and discovered here, as well as various you tube videos. All the methods I found looked complicated or damaging. So... I went and had a natter to my old man who is good with innovative ideas for fixing things. We found a really easy and cheap way to unstick filler knobs with no damage. I hope this idea will be of use to all of you if you have not figured this out for yourselves. All we did was buy a hose clamp for about $5. we then got a piece of bike tyre inner tube, wrapped it round the knob, attached the hose clamp and tightened it up, then gave it a couple of taps (on the screw head in the direction to loosen the knob) And that was that. It didn't even need a vice. The clamp meant that even pressure was applied around the knob with no damage to the bakelite. Now I am awaiting a new head gasket and seals with anticipation. I hope that this very simple and effective method will be useful for anyone with a stuck filler knob.
    flynnaus and LeroyC like this.

  34. #134
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    Somewhere on one of the Atomic threads I wrote about my method of removing a filler knob that had been locked in place for years, but it seems the restorers thread might be a good place to mention it too.

    Grab a webbing strap type Oil Filter tool, a half inch ratchet drive (socket handle) and if you need it, a bit of pipe to extend the handle leverage.

    Then, heat the Atomic - knob and all- with very hot water for a while. I held mine under the hot water tap until it was too hot to hold. The knob originally binds in place because of the aluminium cooling and clamping onto the bakelite. Then corrosion over the years finishes the job. Heating the aluminium gives it a chance to expand just a tiny bit and release its hold.

    After heating it, handle the body with leather gloves of towelling because it should be extremely hot.

    Wrap the webbing strap around the bakelite knob just as if it was a really small oil filter. Take up the slack, with the ratchet and apply pressure. If it doesn;t move, try lengthening the handle (use the pipe).

    The webbing applies nice even pressure all around the knob and there's a good chance that, like mine, it won't break. Applying pressure with most other things, except the hose clamp idea mentioned above, puts opposing stress on the bakelite. Either method, the hose clamp and the oil filter strap, can grip all the way around.

    Cheers,

    RossD

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    Behmor Brazen - $249 - Free Freight
    Hi,
    I'm new here, have just aquired an Atomic from my local "Tip shop" all that seems to be wrong is that the black knob is broken under the head and before the seal. Have ordered a new head and seal set. I have tried to remove the steam valve and arm assembly but the thread seems to be stuck, got about half a turn movement but it then stuck, it took a disconcertingly considerable amount of force to move it that far, does anyone have any suggestions as to how I may proceed from here? I am going to try a few drops of ATF/Kerro mix and see if that helps. But would appreciate any other suggestions.

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