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Thread: Breville BES900 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

  1. #5301
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    Quote Originally Posted by random111 View Post
    So I take I have to source a Breville one?

    No other commercial ones fit?

    At $150 I'd rather save up for a new machine...The pump is on the way out amongst other things...I was hoping to spend around $50

    $799 at DJs ATM...Tempting!!
    No, I don't think so - if nothing else - the lugs around the porta filter would have to fit the group head collar. Portafilters aren't a standard.

    Hence my suggestion to have a handle made for you. Ask your mates if they know someone with a lathe and for a slab of beer you might get yourself a new handle.

    Up to you, really. If you want to throw it and buy another one - also good.

  2. #5302
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    What diameter is the portafilter for the 900?

    I bought a shelf model from DJ and i think it had the wrong portafilter in it. The 58mm baskets (all 4 of them) sit loosely in the portafilter, i cam actually jiggle them. The portafilter fits the group head (seemingly) well so I'm wondering if the portafilter is from another breville machine. Is there another machine in their range that is larger than 58mm?

  3. #5303
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doonks View Post
    What diameter is the portafilter for the 900?

    I bought a shelf model from DJ and i think it had the wrong portafilter in it. The 58mm baskets (all 4 of them) sit loosely in the portafilter, i cam actually jiggle them. The portafilter fits the group head (seemingly) well so I'm wondering if the portafilter is from another breville machine. Is there another machine in their range that is larger than 58mm?
    Make sure the porterfilter spring is still there
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  4. #5304
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubbi4 View Post
    Make sure the porterfilter spring is still there
    There is no spring, definitely didn't come with it.


  5. #5305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doonks View Post
    There is no spring, definitely didn't come with it.

    Yep, that's why it's loose
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  6. #5306
    Coffee Newbie okitoki's Avatar
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    Guys... just picked up an old BES900 for a friend and was cleaning it up .

    Noticed when using a blind filter to flush the group head and noticed it just went up to 13bar... is this suppose to happen or is it suppose to be around the 10 bar range?

    Tried making a few shots is either too watery at 9bar or right consistency by at 13 bar.

    Not familiar with the BES900 pressure gauge. Or does it need to adjust the OPV?

  7. #5307
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    hi peeps, could someone please give me a review on the BES900. I am looking to buy a second hand one with the smart grinder. Only a couple of years old, for under $500. This will be for a first time user of an espresso machine for a friend. Any reviews would be much appreciated. One thing that concerns me is its has been used with tap water located in SE Suburbs of Melbourne. Could this be an issue on this type of machine? Cheers

    Nelson

  8. #5308
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    Hello Doonks,

    Yes there should be a circular spring in the groove. The lack of it will not affect your coffee but the filter basket will fall out when you turn the handle over.

    As it was Brevilles fault not to put one in, you could ask them to post one to you.

  9. #5309
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    Cloudy Water

    Hi, I am currently descaling my BES900 as per Argus' instructions on page 102. Everything went well, but now as as I am flushing out the larger boiler I am continually getting out cloudy water out of it. I have flushed it out about 10 times, but the water does not appear to be any clearer. Any ideas why the water comes out cloudy? I will keep flushing and hope the water clears up.

    Warren

  10. #5310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzak View Post
    (....)I have flushed it out about 10 times, but the water does not appear to be any clearer. Any ideas why the water comes out cloudy? I will keep flushing and hope the water clears up.
    Warren
    Quick question - have you left the water to settle after you've poured it? I seem to remember that at times if you have tiny bubbles in suspension in the water (from air, steam, whatever) it can make the water look turbid. Give it a little time to settle and observe the little bubbles raising to the top and the water clearing nicely.
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  11. #5311
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    Hey guys,

    Just wondering if someone could help me out also,

    I have a breville dual boiler and smart grinder pro. Im roasting my own beans but I'm finding even on finest setting, burr setting 1,2 or 3 even and on LCD 1 shot at times still can run too fast for my likes. I haven't yet chocked the machine either so not sure whats going on.. I'm also using 20-23 grams in the basket and tamping pretty firmly.

    Any ideas?

  12. #5312
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    Quote Originally Posted by inorog View Post
    Quick question - have you left the water to settle after you've poured it? I seem to remember that at times if you have tiny bubbles in suspension in the water (from air, steam, whatever) it can make the water look turbid. Give it a little time to settle and observe the little bubbles raising to the top and the water clearing nicely.
    I thought the same about the air bubbles when I first started flushing the boiler, but the water was cloudy with no air bubbles. It took about 25 times flushing out the boiler for the water to come out clear. I think the residue from the descaling settled on the bottom of the boiler. Next time I descale it will interesting to see if a similar problem happens again. Thanks for your response.

    Warren
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  13. #5313
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    Quote Originally Posted by NmBeasy View Post
    Hey guys,

    Just wondering if someone could help me out also,

    I have a breville dual boiler and smart grinder pro. Im roasting my own beans but I'm finding even on finest setting, burr setting 1,2 or 3 even and on LCD 1 shot at times still can run too fast for my likes. I haven't yet chocked the machine either so not sure whats going on.. I'm also using 20-23 grams in the basket and tamping pretty firmly.

    Any ideas?
    New Breville BCG820 "Smart Grinder Pro"

    See photo on first post.

  14. #5314
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    Hey all,

    I'm sure I'm just going to need to wait for customer service to be open, but I thought I'd check to see if there was something missing, or maybe if you guys know what the problem is.

    My wife and I just got a BDB second hand from her godmother and it was shipped here. We set it up per the initial setup procedure, but the machine does not seem to want to heat past 155F. Is there any obvious reason this might be happening aside from "it's broken?" Just thought I'd check.

    EDIT: It's alive!! Turns out the boilers were empty, and they didn't fill until the 4th time we tried it.
    Last edited by Killericon; 27th April 2017 at 02:52 PM. Reason: Update
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  15. #5315
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    Hi again, so as I mentioned in an earlier post, my BDB has a strange problem with its computer I guess, it starts pumping water out of the group head as soon as I turn it on, and won't stop until it runs out of water or I turn it off.
    After it ran out of water, I topped it up and turned the hot water tap on and off and right away it started pumping water again...

    So here's the work around:

    Enter the service mode which you use to see the shot count and when you exit that mode it will function as normal again.

    And I've worked out that once I've done that, the problem won't occur again until the power is turned off at the plug.

    It's obviously a computer problem and I guess the CPU needs firmware upgrade, and probably a new battery for memory retention.

    Anyone know if that can be done at home?

  16. #5316
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    Last week I bought a new BES920 to replace my old BES900 which has become old, tired and slow, just like me. Read my story on the BES920 page,
    Breville BES920 Dual Boiler - Owners thread
    Post number 1539

    Barry

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    Additional faults to check when steam boiler is not heating up.

    Quote Originally Posted by mickybobby View Post
    I have a BDB that is about 4 years old now and it won't heat past 68 degrees C, it just gets there and drops to 67 and then heats back up to 68. Any ideas or anyone experience a similar problem?
    Hi mickybobby. Besides the already mentioned NTC (temperature sensor), there are a few things that can prevent the steam boiler heating element from working. If the small pump continually pumps then see #1 below. Otherwise, detach the red wired probe and partially insert a large syringe with some silicon tubing attached to it (or a straw) and mark the tubing or straw with a permanent marker so you can repeat the insertion depth again. Suck some water out of the steam boiler keeping the insertion depth at your mark until you no longer get any water. Turn on the machine and wait for the pump to stop then insert the silicon tube/straw again to the same mark and see if you can suck out some water. If you can the pump is working. If not, service or replace the pump.

    These are the possible other faults:

    1. Continuous pumping means that either the pump is faulty and/or one of the level probes is faulty (they could have too much scale on them also). Clean the probes and check again. If they still don't work replace the set of them.
    2. Thermal fuse, which is attached to the boiler on the side closest to the machine's side. If this is open circuit then you have to replace it. It could be corroded too making it intermittent or a poor conductor. To access this you must remove all top connections from the boiler and both pumps.
    3. Thermostat, which is the round thing on the other side of the boiler. Open circuit one will need to be replaced. Same difficulty as accessing the thermal fuse.
    4. Triac board has a fault. This is the board attached to the machine lid. The heating element is driven by the brown cable part of the board.
    5. Worst case, the heating element is faulty. In this case you need a new boiler.

    There might be some more that have skipped my mind. For example, the control board is faulty. Eliminate the things above first.

  18. #5318
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    Has anyone out there had to replace one of the thermal fuses in the unit? They appear to be welded onto the heating element and I'd like to know how to remove and replace them properly using proper tools.

  19. #5319
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    Hi Sammys,

    I think I may have diagnosed the problem. I manually filled the steam boiler with water through one of the holes on the top and then powered the machine up and it worked fine! I figured maybe it was the pump that was faulty. I removed the steam boiler to get access to the pump so I could have a look. The pump was quite corroded so I pulled it apart and it looks like the internals of the pump were scorched! I suspect that the pump had failed and therefore was not putting water into the steam boiler so the machine wasn't heating up to protect itself from damage. Would that be a correct assumption?

    Anyway I have ordered a new steam pump and look forward to seeing if that works. I am just fixing this to give as a gift to a family member as my Dual Boiler is working great after almost 4 years. Really hope I can get it working as it would be a shame to throw it out!
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  20. #5320
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    Sounds about right. Good job. Are you taking any measures to prevent pump corrosion?

  21. #5321
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    Cool

    What could be done about pump corrosion, other than put 2 dollars a week aside for buying a new pump in 4 years time? :P
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  22. #5322
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    That's the reason I'm asking. I'd like to know if there's some way to prevent corrosion to prolong the use of the pump because the coil has a long life span (if not corroded). The non-return valve and ball tend to have a limited lifespan and I've found replacement balls on eBay. Am yet to find replacements for the non-return valve though.

  23. #5323
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    Well well well! My turn with my tale of woe...

    My BES900 takes a long time to reach nominal pressure (17-20sec), and even then - it fluctuates... My first suspicion is that the solenoid gasket has just about had it...

    The other thing that I've noticed is that the max pressure has dropped to about 7 bar, which I suspect is related to the OPV opening too early (which I can then adjust easily enough)

    Could someone from the illustrious public confirm if my suspicions are correct?

    If so - any ideas where I could source a couple of gaskets for the solenoid? is the need-a-part site from NZ good enough?

    Cheers,
    Ino
    Last edited by inorog; 16th May 2017 at 04:44 PM.

  24. #5324
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    I will also pipe in with a query. I've traced a temperature fault through to the voltage divider surrounding the shower head NTC. So, I have to now check the components in this circuit because my brain can't figure out which one is faulty based on the 2.5V found at SHOWER_HEAD_NTC when the shower head is at operating temperature (I think it should be around 4.5V like the others). I managed to remove the SMD resistor (R99) and it measured 6.8k and then fell on the floor never to be found again. I also removed the SMD capacitor (C66) and my multimeter has ranges 20uF to 2nF but doesn't show any capacitance for it.

    Can anyone tell me the values I should be expecting for R99 and C66? I will probably replace them with non-SMD parts just to save the hassle of buying and soldering some SMD components.
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  25. #5325
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    We bought the BES900 some 4 or so years ago but after 2 years it was giving problems so we bought the BES920. Now that machine is at the doctors awaiting a new fuse we have resurrected the old BES900 and it has been working okay until today, the only visible thing wrong is the steam wand leaking a bit. The temperature reaches 93 and then keeps climbing, along with a lot of peculiar noises so now we have no coffee....husband is a coffee fiend and very unhappy. This old machine had quite a few visits to the repairer in its day, at one stage we had to get a new boiler as the old one had a hole in it. I am reluctant to spend any more on it so am wondering if anyone has an idea as to what is causing the problem. Probably a lost cause but my son is very handy so might be able to do something with it as I see from other posts people doing their own repairs.

  26. #5326
    Senior Member argus's Avatar
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    I had exactly the same temperature climbing problem with my BES920 a few days ago. Let it cool down then had a look inside and found a leak on the steam boiler water inlet connection but with the lid open the temperature control went back to normal. Seems like the moisture build up inside the machine caused the temperature control to play up? I'm just trying to find a source for replacement O-rings now. If your pressure gauge has condensation in it and you can hear hissing from a steam leak you may have the same problem. It is easy enough to fix if you can get hold of the O-rings, just taking mine apart and giving the orings and ports a clean reduced the leak a bit.
    Last edited by argus; 16th June 2017 at 06:44 PM.

  27. #5327
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    Quote Originally Posted by argus View Post
    I had exactly the same temperature climbing problem with my BES920 a few days ago. Let it cool down then had a look inside and found a leak on the steam boiler water inlet connection but with the lid open the temperature control went back to normal. Seems like the moisture build up inside the machine caused the temperature control to play up? I'm just trying to find a source for replacement O-rings now. If your pressure gauge has condensation in it and you can hear hissing from a steam leak you may have the same problem. It is easy enough to fix if you can get hold of the O-rings, just taking mine apart and giving the orings and ports a clean reduced the leak a bit.
    thanks for the info. I will get my son to look at it over the weekend. One thing that occurs to me is that I had my coffee and instead of turning the machine off as usual I left it on for my husband for when he came home from gym. As he was late it was on for over an hour so maybe that had something to do with the problem if it is condensation.
    Will report back if I find out a solution.

  28. #5328
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    Hmm.. diagnosis please.

    When brewing lately, I've noticed some water escaping outside of the grouphead.

    The machine is approx 6 months old. Sometimes I wonder if it is the grind being too tight, and water finding an escape.

    Meanwhile, I have a new shower head seal, but wondering if it's worth installing it or not?

  29. #5329
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    If your machine is 6 months old, is it a 900 or 920?

  30. #5330
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by niko123456 View Post
    Hmm.. diagnosis please.

    When brewing lately, I've noticed some water escaping outside of the grouphead.

    The machine is approx 6 months old. Sometimes I wonder if it is the grind being too tight, and water finding an escape.

    Meanwhile, I have a new shower head seal, but wondering if it's worth installing it or not?
    Sounds very much like the group seal (I presume this is what you are referring to as the shower head seal). I presume the leak occurs regardless of what filter basket you use?

  31. #5331
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    Before anything - I would check the integrity of the plastic collar against which the PF lugs lever. If at some point someone had too much coffee, and forced the PF to lock, that could cause the plastic collar to rip and deform.

    You can check it without taking it apart - get a good torch under the group head (don't flip the machine - it's not necessary - or if you do - remove the water try and water tank! :P ) and look at the shape of the plastic collar on which the PF lugs rest when it's inserted. It should be flush with the metal collar which is the outer part of the group-head assembly...

    In my case that was the reason why the PF was leaking. It's a $12 part - if I recall correctly.

    Because it's still under warranty (presumably) I'd take it to have it done at an authorised centre.

    See the pictures attached.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  32. #5332
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    Ahhh.. that collar looks interesting. Do you think it would be covered by warranty? I'll take a look and see if I can spot anything. I have a feeling I once did see something hanging out there.. but then I went looking and it wasn't there. It seems like the problem is getting worse so I'm inclined to think some sort of intevention will eventually be necessary.

    And also, sorry - it is indeed the 920. I managed to post in the wrong thread. Dur.

  33. #5333
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    Probably if there was something there - it could've detached out. The collar is weakened, and it doesn't hold pressure anymore. Have a very good look, a good torch is essential for that.

    I would try it as a warranty job - regardless - for all you know it might have been a defective injection-moulded part which broke under normal usage... You won't know until you take it in. And really - if it costs you $12 +workmanship, well - it's on a $1200 machine...

  34. #5334
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    Quote Originally Posted by kike10 View Post
    hi peeps, could someone please give me a review on the BES900. I am looking to buy a second hand one with the smart grinder. Only a couple of years old, for under $500. This will be for a first time user of an espresso machine for a friend. Any reviews would be much appreciated. One thing that concerns me is its has been used with tap water located in SE Suburbs of Melbourne. Could this be an issue on this type of machine? Cheers

    Nelson
    Hi,

    I have a four year old BES900 and I just spent $600 getting it repaired. I was not happy to learn I could have bought a newer model for not much more. I would be reluctant to purchase second hand at these prices as it seems they are expensive to maintain. Also, the service centre advised the BES900 requires a factory descale each twelve months. More cost.

    Having said that, aside from the lack or longevity of an Italian machine, I still find the BES900 makes good coffee $600 later.

    Cheers
    Andrew

  35. #5335
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    Hey Guys,

    Looking for a bit of advice from people who have owned these before.

    I just bought a BES900 (second hand) which I was told to be in good condition.

    It's 4 years old, According to documentation it's been opened twice.

    First time: 7/10/14 -
    Fault Reported: "Steam wand dripping constantly"
    Repair Details: "Descale if warranty, Dismanted, Replaced Parts (listed) Re-assembled, Checked and tested ok"

    The parts replaced were

    BES900/100 Gasket Kit
    BES900/09.6 Ball Valve Kit


    Second Time: 26/8/15 -
    Fault Reported: "Making loud humming sound"
    Repair Details: "Dismantled & Replaced Solenoid Valve, Checked & Tested, Increased pressure @ safety valve (10BAR+) Steam & HW ok"

    I've also got a Breville Smart Grinder Pro.

    Problem is that it seems to take an awful long time to "pre-infuse" - I've done a factory reset on the machine and the pre-infusion is set to 7 seconds, 60% power.

    I went through nearly 400g of beans trying to get the grind right, etc last night.

    I rarely see the pressure gauge move - I don't know if I'm just not understanding how this machine works but from everything I see it's supposed to sit at around 9 bar when extracting a shot?

    I've been using the single wall double cup basket with an 18g dose - is this the problem? Do you only get pressure on double walled baskets? Sorry novice here!

    When I've seen it go up to 9 bar (maybe 3 times in 20-25+ extractions?) it seems to drop down shortly after hitting it or it bounces around quite a bit.

    The shot clock gets to about 12 seconds before I hear the pump kicking in and see the coffee actually starting to come out of the portafilter.

    Am I doing something wrong or does this sound like it has some sort of issue?

    If anyone can give me any direction I'd be very grateful. I'm confident enough to open it up and replace parts if needed, just not sure whether I'd be looking at a pump or OPV or..?


    Thanks in advance!
    Ben

  36. #5336
    Super Moderator Javaphile's Avatar
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    G'day Ben and welcome to CS. The first question that needs to be asked is where are you sourcing your beans from and how old are they?

    As to setting the pre-infusion time as per page 20 of the manual:

    Pre-Infusion Programming
    Press UP and DOWN arrows together to enter PRE-INFUSION programming mode. Press MENU button to move between Pre-Infusion Duration (Pd) and Pre-Infusion Power (PP).


    Pre-Infusion Duration (Pd)

    The LCD will display the current Pre-Infusion Duration. Press UP or DOWN arrow to vary time. We recommend a range between 5-15secs as being optimum. Press EXIT button to set the new Pre-Infusion Duration.


    Pre-Infusion Power (PP)

    The LCD will display current Pre-Infusion Power as a percentage of total pump power. Press UP or DOWN arrow to vary power. We recommend a range between 55-65 as being optimum. Press EXIT button to set the new Pre-Infusion Power.



    Java "Gotta be fresh!" phile
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  37. #5337
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    Hi javaphile,

    Thanks for replying

    Ok I normally stick to 2 "brands" of beans, one is from a local coffee shop - when I bought them 2 days ago I was told they just got that batch that day (I was told by that coffee shop that they have them roasted here in Adelaide) so I'm guessing maybe a day or two old?

    The other brand is "C Coffee" beans - there's a 24/7 convenience/petrol station place here in adelaide called "On The Run" - they've got their own beans and they're roasted here in adelaide too, honestly these probably arent too fresh as they sit on a shelf with a 6 month expiry (I think).

    The beans from the coffee shop were absolutely horrible - they used to be great but the last 2 batches have been horrible.

    C Coffee ones on this machine taste ok.

    I've fiddled a bit with the preinfusion but the guage rarely goes up during pre infusion and it certainly doesnt jump up to 9 bar when the actual extraction starts. - Is this normal for a BES900?


    Thanks,
    Ben

  38. #5338
    Super Moderator Javaphile's Avatar
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    The beans sound questionable. I would strongly suggest getting beans direct from a roaster who can tell you exactly what day they were roasted on. It would be hard to pass up our own roasted to order and shipped fresh direct to your door beans available in BeanBay. Also if you haven't yet done so checking out the thread on storing roasted beans would be a good idea.

    The pressure gauge will show very little pressure during the preinfusion stage. Only during the extraction phase should you see the higher pressures. Try putting the backflush disc in and see what pressure the gauge reads once the pumps goes to full power. It should get up to around 9 bars immediately after the pump goes to full power. (When using the backflush disc once you get full pressure hit the shot button again to stop the shot.) If it does then the machine is likely working properly and the problem lies with the beans/grind.


    Java "First rule: Gotta have fresh beans!" phile
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  39. #5339
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    Quote Originally Posted by Javaphile View Post
    The beans sound questionable. I would strongly suggest getting beans direct from a roaster who can tell you exactly what day they were roasted on. It would be hard to pass up our own roasted to order and shipped fresh direct to your door beans available in BeanBay. Also if you haven't yet done so checking out the thread on storing roasted beans would be a good idea.

    The pressure gauge will show very little pressure during the preinfusion stage. Only during the extraction phase should you see the higher pressures. Try putting the backflush disc in and see what pressure the gauge reads once the pumps goes to full power. It should get up to around 9 bars immediately after the pump goes to full power. (When using the backflush disc once you get full pressure hit the shot button again to stop the shot.) If it does then the machine is likely working properly and the problem lies with the beans/grind.


    Java "First rule: Gotta have fresh beans!" phile
    Hi javaphile,

    Thanks for your advice

    I just did a cleaning cycle with the tablet and backflush disc in the dual wall single cup filter and it got to 8.5-9 bar happily.

    Time to look for beans

    Thanks so much for your help, I'll go have a look at beanbay.

    Ben

  40. #5340
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    I understand the preference and desire to get the dosage weight precise, but have you tried dosing by site? I found that helped me establish good espresso consistency, and when I randomly weigh a dose to just double check it is mostly spot in. So yeah, for me, I grind till I have that molehill of coffee peaking out of the espresso puk, bang twice, fill and level - removing the excess with a finger, and than tamp firmly with a level 20-30kg pressure, followed by a quick swivel on release to leave a clean finish. My espresso flow & consistency have been pretty good since I put less demand on precise weigh-ins

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