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Thread: Breville BES900 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

  1. #5351
    Senior Member csutak40's Avatar
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    Thanks for that. I did remove the shower screen quite a few times to clean it, but that is as far as my confidence in my expertise with tools go I will pass on this link to whom ever will be interested in buying it

  2. #5352
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    Leaking steam probes

    Quote Originally Posted by Brollond View Post
    I believe the OP was referring to the probe on the steam boiler (see image below), it doesn't look serviceable however I have never tried to disassemble one to see how it seals inside.
    Thanks guys, yes I was referring to the steam probe ceramic collar. It's a loose fit on the metal shaft and allows steam to vent up the inside of the collar and out the top. Replacing the o-ring has no effect as the pressure is venting up the centre of the probe.

    I "solved" the problem by removing the probes and filling the joint between the bottom of the ceramic collar and the shaft with a little epoxy. Probably wouldn't get past the food safety police though.

  3. #5353
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    Aside the food compatibility, the only (other) problem is that the epoxy has to be temperature resistant - if I recall correctly, normal epoxy you get around the place tends to get a little soft with temperature. So with steam and heat exposure, that fix may only be temporary and you may end up having to re-open it later.

    I don't know how much the probes are, but they can't be *that* expensive.

    Edit: It's "Food compatibility" not "Foot compatibility" -- damned autocorrect.
    Last edited by inorog; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:41 PM.

  4. #5354
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    Quote Originally Posted by inorog View Post
    Aside the foot compatibility, the only (other) problem is that the epoxy has to be temperature resistant - if I recall correctly, normal epoxy you get around the place tends to get a little soft with temperature. So with steam and heat exposure, that fix may only be temporary and you may end up having to re-open it later.

    I don't know how much the probes are, but they can't be *that* expensive.
    Thanks inorog,

    They seem to be around the 50-60 AUD range, so I have added a set to my "will do" list in the event that I can resolve the other issues without much more expense.

    To date I have:

    a) Replaced all the o-rings (about 1435 of them I think including the one on the side of the steam boiler, the pressure gauge and at the bottom of the solenoid;
    b) Done a de-scale (Steam boiler pretty grotty, brew boiler NTB);
    c) Replaced group collar and seal;
    d) Replaced brew boiler thermal fuse (was OC)
    e) Dismantled and cleaned solenoid and all ports etc, gasket seems OK

    I can now power up and pull a shot with 9 bar during extraction.

    Main issue now is with temperature. It heats up quickly but once it reaches the 93 deg mark continues to heat. I can sometimes catch it by drawing off a cup or two of hot water which causes the temp to drop below 93, then as it heats back up again to set point it locks in (usually). I can then pull a shot, but it will often start heating again with the "93" flashing. If I turn it off and back on, the real temperature is displayed and is usually in the high 90's.

    Steam is good, if a little watery when the tap is first opened.

    There appears to be something happening with air lock / solenoid however. When I turn it off and it starts to cool I can hear the solenoid fluttering and observe air moving in the pipes about every four seconds between steam boiler / brew boiler / solenoid and hot water outlet (which periodically leaks a few drops in sync).

    Is it possible the solenoid is at faulty and causing the temperature issue? If likely I will add it to my "will do" list, but if the repairs are going to go much beyond that I will have to seriously reconsider my commitment to the "project" methinks.

    Thanks for any advice.

  5. #5355
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    See my post: Breville BES900 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

    It was basically a corroded NTC thermistor - sensor probe had a rusted hole in it, and water was playing havoc with it. You may need to unscrew them from the boiler(s)

    I had it replaced under warranty - but yeah ...

  6. #5356
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    Thanks inorog,

    I pulled out the NTC and all looked OK visually, so thought I would pop it back for the moment and look elsewhere....

    So I gave it some thought (I know, desperate measure) and figured that there would likely be only two reasons the brew heater was kicking in. a) the temperature was lower than set point or b) the main board thought that cold water was flowing into the boiler and so it would switch on the element to jump start the heating process.

    I had already discounted a) so thought I would dig around and find the flow meter that measures the flow to the brew boiler. Found it behind the main PCB, and once discovered (lo and behold) a mass of corrosion around the connector. A quick clean up and a spray with some WD and we are back in business. I figure the corrosion was sending "fake news" to the PCB, and it in turn responded by kicking in the element.

    The BDB now comes up to heat, and sticks there like a cane toad on bitumen. Rock solid.

    I still have a couple of smallish issues but looking good!

    Anyone know how to get the steam handle off? I want to give the ball valve a bit of a work over.

    Thanks all.
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  7. #5357
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    You might want to find out why the corrosion happened on the PCB... chances are a). condensation, b). slow leak/seepage. Might need to keep an eye on that one.

    As to the ball valve - I think that the round shroud on the steam handle comes off if you pull hard enough - if I recall correctly - mine's a little loose and wobbly. The handle probably is held by a screw of some description.

    Well done with the troubleshooting! Oh - and "fake news" - ba-ahahahaha!

  8. #5358
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crusty49 View Post
    Anyone know how to get the steam handle off? I want to give the ball valve a bit of a work over.

    Thanks all.
    Removable cap clips on outside of steam wand and pops off when pulled firmly. There's a single screw in centre needs to be removed to get the ball valve out.

    I've been able to successfully repair/service two leaking steam wands over the weekend, the ball valve body can be unscrewed using an allen key. You can then completely disassemble the valve body to clean the ball and plastic sealing washers. I give them a good clean and descale and found that when reassembled the leak is gone, so definitely worth a try.

    Good luck!

  9. #5359
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    Thanks folks,

    I managed to get the ball valve apart and did a clean up. Seems to be much improved but still has an occasional drip but I can live with that.

    Cheers
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  10. #5360
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    Hi Crusty,

    Where did you get the replacement o-rings from, I picked up a non-working BES900 from gumtree to see if it is fixable. One of the pipes into the brew boiler is missing the o-ring altogether and there is a fair amount of corrosion internally, though most of the electrical components appear unharmed. I also need a new NTC thermistor for the brew boiler, anyone know where these can be sourced? The temperature display either shows err1 or jumps all over the place. When I pulled the thermistor out it was covered in rust and the reading is around 100 ohms.

  11. #5361
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    Hi mate, you should be able to pick them up at a bearing supply place e.g. Bearing Services. Take a sample in and they should be able to match it. You need a silicon (first preference) or vitron type. The standard black rubber ones won't last long.

    Not sure where you would get the NTC. Try googling BES900/03.11B which should be the part number.

    Cheers

  12. #5362
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    I think I have found the answer to this problem mentioned above....

    "There appears to be something happening with air lock / solenoid however. When I turn it off and it starts to cool I can hear the solenoid fluttering and observe air moving in the pipes about every four seconds between steam boiler / brew boiler / solenoid and hot water outlet (which periodically leaks a few drops in sync)"

    After checking everything else, I decided to replace the pump on the off chance that it was allowing water back down through the pump when it was de-energised. Sure enough, all good. No more gurgling and fluttering.

    I think I'm getting pretty close to a 100% machine now. Happy camper.
    inorog and level3ninja like this.

  13. #5363
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    However there is one small issue I can't seem to resolve.

    The 1 cup and 2 cup presets don't work (brew just keeps on coming). I can't set these either according to the instructions in the book.

    Neither do I get the two beeps that should tell me the settings have been saved.

    I'm not too worried because I will normally use manual mode. Any ideas? Has any one else had this problem?

    Cheers.

  14. #5364
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    Hi Guys,

    does anyone happen to have a spare good condition/new insert collar or know where I can still buy one at a reasonable price?


    Also, my steam wand leaks water when the machine is on and not in use. Has anyone got a fix for this?

    Cheers

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