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Thread: Breville BES900 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

  1. #5401
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    Hello,

    I'm new to this board and thread. I live in the US (Colorado). I purchased a BES900XL in August of 2014. Loved it so much, I bought my son a BES920 a few months later. Wish I could trade. I use it daily. It has been working quite well for these 3.5 years though the steamer seem to gradually be weakening. I believe we have high quality tap water. I'm quite handy and would like to find the definitive run-down on descaling and maintenance. I greatly appreciate any help.

    Thanks,

    Douglas
    Last edited by dgennetten; 11th February 2018 at 03:13 AM.

  2. #5402
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgennetten View Post
    Hello,

    I'm new to this board and thread. I live in the US (Colorado). I purchased a BES900XL in August of 2014. Loved it so much, I bought my son a BES920 a few months later. Wish I could trade. I use it daily. It has been working quite well for these 3.5 years though the steamer seem to gradually be weakening. I believe we have high quality tap water. I'm quite handy and would like to find the definitive run-down on descaling and maintenance. I greatly appreciate any help.

    Thanks,

    Douglas
    While our Aussie mates are sleeping...

    Both your -900 and your son's -920 are well past due for some maintenance. Here's what I know so far from having had the BDB since it's USA launch in November 2011...

    This is a quote from me in the -920 thread:
    Hi guys, been a member here for a few years but stopped visiting as much as the USA web sites caught up with 900/920 growth and adoption...

    I was an early USA adopter having got my -900 in November 2011. About two years later, it got replaced under warranty with a -900 /B which was the last version before the -920 came out, and uses the -920 brew group and notched portafilters and all. So I'm kind of in between the -900 forum and the -920 forum. So my -900 is basically a -920 save for the ability to drain the boilers, with is moot to me, because I use a commercial espresso machine filtration system that does not produce scale.

    So now, many years off warranty, a little over six years into BDB ownership (for Breville Dual Boiler), and being active on the forums, these are the things that seem to commonly arise:

    1) o-rings: need replacing every 2-3 years, particularly the steam boiler o-rings under the fittings where there are water tubes. Failure to replace these when they are leaking can cause all manner of strange behavior, from constant heating past the set temp, to popping the circuit at the wall outlet as leaking steam wets the triac circuit board under the warming tray. $10USD from Amazon or ebay gets you 100 size #007 o-rings, which is more than you will need for the rest of your life. I used silicone, because I think that's what Breville used. Some use EPDM, and some use regular nitrile. They all cost about the same and I wouldn't be surprised if they all work about the same in this application, despite having different duty ratings.

    2) solenoid: seems good for about 3-4 years. I have not had much luck trying to rebuild one that no longer works. Under $50USD delivered for a new one. I have kept my old one though, in case something comes up where I find good information on how to revive it. But if I had to guess, I'd say the electric bit, the coil, is what is bad, and not leaks or blockages.

    3) steam ball valve: these eventually begin to leak either through the ball in the middle or out the side of the on-off handle. It is oriented vertically in the machine. the bits that screw into the top and bottom of it are unique to the BDB. the bit in the middle, the valve unit itself could be an off the shelf item from about anywhere (probably China), as the world is awash in g1/4 British thread ball valves, which is what this uses. Problem: most of the parts houses I'm aware of are out of these and may be discontinued. Solution: keep the top and bottom Breville bits and find an off the shelf ball valve from somewhere that uses female-female g1/4 British threads that is about the same length as the Breville one and use it instead. Might have to bend up a new clamp to clamp it to the the machine if the Breville clamp is too small or too big. USA 1/4 NPT female-female ball valves may work too in this type of application. They are the same thread pitch as the British g1/4, but are tapered thread. Many people in the automotive hobbies exchange USA NPT with British BSPP and BSPT for mild applications.


    -Peter
    If you haven't done the o-rings on the water/steam tubes coming off the top of the steam boiler, you are on borrowed time for some very disconcerting things happening. I shudder to think how many people have thrown out perfectly good BDB's in the past because these strange things were happening and didn't [I]seem{/I] fixable. If you haven't replaced the solenoid there are no dire consequences from that, other than extra noise and possible inconsistent operation. The steam ball valve will eventually develop leaks that present as drips out of the steam want tip, or worse, out the side of the ball valve, where the handle screws into it. This has become an issue of late, since the parts houses are running out, and listing them as "discontinued". Read above for the state of that situation. As for descaling, this is a controversial area in the BDB community. Most commercial-like machines like the GS/3 do not have boiler drains, as it is assumed that by the time you reach the level of commercial type machines, you are using scale-free water. Descaling a GS/3, should rarely if ever need to happen and when it does, it requires major disassembly and removal of the boilers. It's best to use conditioned water and never have to worry about it again. In the case of the BDB, I have elected to use conditioned water, so I never have scale and never have to worry about scale. But even with the -900 version, you can descale it without removing the boilers. Since I've never had to do it, I won't go into much more detail than I have, but I get the idea it's been done by people here on CS. It would be interesting to read how they have done it.

    There are a couple of very useful links in the USA forums (CG and HB), talking about o-ring replacement and some other common maintenance items. there may well be the same here too. but I haven't visited in here in a while so I could easily be missing it.

    Hope this is enough to get you started.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 11th February 2018 at 07:32 AM.

  3. #5403
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    Ooookay... Last weekend I took the time to upgrade/repair my trusty and faithful BES900. Over the past 12 months it has been getting more and more sluggish and difficult to come up to the normal 9bar pressure, and even without the portafilter in place, the volume of water was diminished. As such - I decided it was time to fix her up good.

    I purchased a new Ulka EP5 pump for replacement (about $30 AUD) and I already had a proper brass OPV which I never installed (due to repairs of the OPV under warranty)

    It took me about 3 hours to swap the pump and the brass OPV but it was very easy work. Also - thanks Nic for a well written procedure: » BES900 and the brass OPV… Nic's Stuff. For the record - that is the same OPV I used, but the press-in tube connector was a straight not angled one.

    Gotchas:
    • need to make sure the OPV does not crush the rubber valve inside the pump - so, that means that you need to shorten the length of the thread by about 2.5mm - use the old OPV for guidance.
    • need to make sure you clean all metal shavings from inside the OPV thusly adjusted and round off all the cutting edges on the thread so that by screwing it in you don't damage the plastic thread on the pump
    • top silicone seal on the plastic OPV is re-usable if you don't have one.
    • temperature cut-off device is re-usable - you can pry it loose without damaging it. If you already have a cut-off component - make sure it cuts off at 85C not 130C (as I got one sent to me with the pump)
    • the 4mm pipelet which comes out of the OPV into the tank needed to have its end cut as the brass collar which presses against the o-ring in the old OPV is compression fitted and it did not come out willingly (dipping that end in hot water did not help, and I was running the risk of damaging it at both ends). Cut flush with the collar as you don't have enough length to spare. Lightly de-bur the freshly cut end before inserting it the new connector.
    • inserting the 4mm pipelet into the connector fitted in the brass OPV is more difficult than initially thought: length of the pipe is barely enough and you need to really push on it with some force to make it go past the o-ring inside the connector. Probably a little bit of silicon grease on the outside of the pipe would have helped - but I didn't have it at the time.
    • careful not to crush or bend the pipe at an angle as you force-insert it, if you need to get better purchase with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    • have a good supply of paper-towels in case you spot a leak as you warm up the machine. Around 45C it starts putting a bit of steam pressure in the pipelet, and if it is not pushed completely in, it will leak. If you see it leak, turn off the machine, unplug it and try to get the pipelet in completely. Dry thoroughly any leakages.
    • If all is good, start the machine, test with the blind disk, and adjust the brass OPV. Mine was already set to open at 11bar, and it was a nice confirmation that the pressurised components held just fine.
    • exhaustively test the system under pressure to make sure it does not leak from anywhere. There was a minor leak as the OPV opened from the tank-return hose - easily rectified with a small zippy-tie.
    • re-assemble the machine, clean the work-bench and enjoy a well earned coffee.



    Ah - I also replaced the solenoid 3-way valve silicone-membrane-come-o-ring. The old one was still OK - however, it had quite a bit of lime deposits underneath and on the bottom metal part. Cleaning those deposits off the metal part was a challenge. CLR did not work on the old silicone membrane - so there was no point in trying it on the metal part (which is aluminium alloy and you shouldn't try anyway). Once re-assembled, the solenoid valve was tested, and declared functional as no leaks were observed.

    So she lives again for many more coffees!
    Last edited by inorog; 15th February 2018 at 07:02 PM.
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  4. #5404
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    Well done! I have not done the OPV upgrade as I haven't needed to. But I keep up with others who have, as well as everything I can find related to repairing and maintaining the BDB. If you are also replacing your pump anyway, you might as well get the version of the Ulka with the brass outlet, and use it instead of the one with the plastic outlet. That way you have brass against brass when you screw your new OPV to the new pump. Some pics and procedure here: https://www.home-barista.com/repairs...od-t43690.html

    By the way, did you guys in Oz ever get the /B version of the -900? Here in the USA, not long before the -920 was released, we started getting a version of the -900 that was labelled on the box as -900 /B. It has the -920 group and portafilter, but otherwise is a -900 with the -900 firmware and no boiler drains (which is of little consequence to me, because I use scale-free water like they do in the top notch Melbourne coffee shops).

    My current -900 is the /B version with the -920 group and portafilters.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 16th February 2018 at 06:09 AM.

  5. #5405
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    Hey Peter,

    I think mine may be a /B version. I can't tell for sure as I don't have the big box anymore. Thing is - mine's had a serious "group-head job" - when I took it in for the porta-filter spinning out by itself, and severe rust in the shower screen screw receptacle. Breville replaced the group-head with an upgraded one for (I think the one for BES 920 (square lugs) ). Never had issues with it since.

    They guys also did a firmware upgrade - and how I noticed that is that the previous version would use to say "clean me" all the time once the timer was up. The version they put on, only says "clean me" during the warmup period - then it goes away.. Go figure!

    Yeah - I'm inland for a while - New England water is uh... well... let's just say that you won't have problem with your recommended daily intake of calcium and magnesium

    Oh well - I'll cross that bridge when I get to it! She served me well since 2012

  6. #5406
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    Hi there, does anyone know where to find an etc from an early model (hex head type) my service centre is saying revile aren't doing them anymore.

  7. #5407
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradsteven View Post
    Hi there, does anyone know where to find an etc from an early model (hex head type) my service centre is saying revile aren't doing them anymore.
    What is an "etc"? I'm pretty good at Aussie slang, (used to live there) but this one evades me.

    -Peter

  8. #5408
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    What is an "etc"? I'm pretty good at Aussie slang, (used to live there) but this one evades me.

    -Peter
    Perhaps a tec/tek screw.

  9. #5409
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    Also love the (unintended?) nick-name for Breville: "Revile"

  10. #5410
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    Hi all,

    I’ve had a bit of a search around, but can’t seem to find an answer to this

    Where can I source a replacement solenoid valve in Sydney, and what should I expect to pay?

  11. #5411
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    Quote Originally Posted by forkboy View Post
    Hi all,

    I’ve had a bit of a search around, but can’t seem to find an answer to this

    Where can I source a replacement solenoid valve in Sydney, and what should I expect to pay?
    Ok, answering my own question, in case it’s useful to others... search for your local breville repair Center. Found one near me in hornsby; Metro Wide Appliances had one in stock for $80

  12. #5412
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    Hey guys,
    Finally picked up a BES900 for a song (hoping to move on my Sunbeam em6910) but the steam wand seems to be playing up. Turn the lever and I can feel the microswitch click. At different attempts I hear the steam pump limping, but it's far too weak to get anything out the wand. Wand holes are clear. I found a bit of info on steam troubles with the bes920, but far less regarding the 900.

    I'm a tinkerer with reasonable electrical knowledge, so I'm happy to pull the covers off and do some testing, I'm just hoping someone can point me what likely faults to look at.

    Cheers in advance!

  13. #5413
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    I have a -900 (with a -920 group), have had for years, and I am unfamiliar with this particular problem, but at first blush I might guess some issue with bad scale. I'm pretty sure that weak steam comes not from a weak pump but from low temperature and small volume in the boiler... And of course, restrictions in it's path. If you take the top and back covers off (support them so you don't strain the attached wire bundles), and have a dig around the steam boiler and it's path to the steam wand. Ideally you can pull off one of the bigger tubes or sensors going into the boiler and see with a flashlight if scale is a problem. Since this not one I've seen before, let us know what you find. I use scale-free water so this has never been a problem for me.

    -Peter

  14. #5414
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    I have a -900 (with a -920 group), have had for years, and I am unfamiliar with this particular problem, but at first blush I might guess some issue with bad scale. I'm pretty sure that weak steam comes not from a weak pump but from low temperature and small volume in the boiler... And of course, restrictions in it's path. If you take the top and back covers off (support them so you don't strain the attached wire bundles), and have a dig around the steam boiler and it's path to the steam wand. Ideally you can pull off one of the bigger tubes or sensors going into the boiler and see with a flashlight if scale is a problem. Since this not one I've seen before, let us know what you find. I use scale-free water so this has never been a problem for me.

    -Peter
    Cheers mate! Appreciate the help. I bought the machine as-is for $50 so I'd be chuffed if I can get it humming!

  15. #5415
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    You sound pretty handy so I won't try to micromanage your steps. When you remove the PTFE water tubes from the top of the steam boiler, have some size #007 o-rings to replace the ones that are there. They are only reliable for two-three years. Steam leaks cause all kinds of scary problems that have probably caused a large number of unnecessary binnings. Don't lose the wire clips that hold the tubes in their bosses. You don't need to re-apply the white silicone sealer they use to glue the boots to the bosses.

    -Peter
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  16. #5416
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    You sound pretty handy so I won't try to micromanage your steps. When you remove the PTFE water tubes from the top of the steam boiler, have some size #007 o-rings to replace the ones that are there. They are only reliable for two-three years. Steam leaks cause all kinds of scary problems that have probably caused a large number of unnecessary binnings. Don't lose the wire clips that hold the tubes in their bosses. You don't need to re-apply the white silicone sealer they use to glue the boots to the bosses.

    -Peter
    I have a strange inkling that this isn't going to help the steam issue.....

    Everything else looks in reasonable condition besides a little bit of espresso sitting on the drain from the group head

  17. #5417
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    Yep. You need a new steam ball valve. Those and 3-way solenoids and o-rings are regular replacement/maintenance items.

    In your case, I would consider replacing that manifold that goes between the steam valve and the water outlet.

    This video is a MUST for any BDB owner in that it highlights the gamut of standard leak paths in a neglected machine that should have had it's o-rings and steam ball valve replaced long ago.

    https://youtu.be/eBk-i43Vr3o

    And this one gives you an idea of what an o-ring job might look like:

    https://youtu.be/LNZcCEMr7Z4

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 24th March 2018 at 01:28 PM.
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  18. #5418
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    Yep. You need a new steam ball valve. Those and 3-way solenoids and o-rings are regular replacement/maintenance items.

    In your case, I would consider replacing that manifold that goes between the steam valve and the water outlet.

    This video is a MUST for any BDB owner in that it highlights the gamut of standard leak paths in a neglected machine that should have had it's o-rings and steam ball valve replaced long ago.

    https://youtu.be/eBk-i43Vr3o

    And this one gives you an idea of what an o-ring job might look like:

    https://youtu.be/LNZcCEMr7Z4

    -Peter
    Awesome thank you so much!

    I bypassed the ball valve and found the steam to be working, so I've just placed an order with Breville! $107 for the valve, the mount and the steam knob, so pretty happy with that!

    The manifold is off being scrubbed at the moment and it's coming up pretty good. I pulled my first espresso shot on it and was pretty happy with the quality. Just gotta grab a handful of o rings

  19. #5419
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    Hi All,

    Im looking to either upgrade or reinvigorate my BDB (7 years and still going strongish!).

    A few issues Im looking to rectify:

    1. Replace OPV with brass unit - more preventative than anything else.
    2. Stop the leak in the steam arm
    3. Replace solenoid gasket
    4. Maybe replace collar as sometimes the hand slips
    5. Likely replace the pump while Im at the OPV

    Soo question is - where do I find all these parts? Im a bit confused as there doesnt seem to be a definitive buying list...

    Thanks!

  20. #5420
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    Quote Originally Posted by flewis88 View Post
    Awesome thank you so much!

    I bypassed the ball valve and found the steam to be working, so I've just placed an order with Breville! $107 for the valve, the mount and the steam knob, so pretty happy with that!

    The manifold is off being scrubbed at the moment and it's coming up pretty good. I pulled my first espresso shot on it and was pretty happy with the quality. Just gotta grab a handful of o rings
    The larger o-rings around the probes rarely leak, so I haven't sized them out yet. but the smaller ones where the 4mm PTFE steam/water tubes go, work well with a size #007 o-ring. there has been a lot of debate as to which common material to use, silicone, Viton, or EPDM, as none seem quite exactly right studying the application charts. In the end, people have used them all and I haven't heard any complaints back about dissatisfaction. Me? I used silicone because that's what the local engineering supply had, and judging by the red-orange color, that may be what Breville used, too. I wouldn't knock myself out over it. Just get what you can, and keep an eye on it for durability.

    It's great to help a guy who has a little knowledge and is willing to give it a go.

    -Peter
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  21. #5421
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    I wouldn't knock myself out over it. Just get what you can, and keep an eye on it for durability.

    It's great to help a guy who has a little knowledge and is willing to give it a go.

    -Peter
    Cheers Peter. Conveniently I work quite a bit with o-rings (not silicone though) but we're outta stock of viton 007s, only have nylatron, but haven't read up on it's applicability. I think I've found a nearby supplier, so I'll scope that out!

  22. #5422
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    Hi there,

    As someone who just replaced the pump, the OPV (with a brass one) and the solenoid membrane, I can say this:

    1. Replace OPV with brass unit - more preventative than anything else. <----- See Post #5403 above for gotchas and others.
    2. Stop the leak in the steam arm
    3. Replace solenoid gasket <----- Breville support line $12 (if I recall correctly)
    4. Maybe replace collar as sometimes the hand slips <------ Mine was sold by a local repair shop ($12 or thereabouts) bought 2.
    5. Likely replace the pump while Im at the OPV <- Ebay - get an Ulka EP5 (plastic) or EPX5 (brass) - recycle the temperature sensor.

    Good luck and have fun - it's worth it.
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  23. #5423
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    Hi Inrog,

    Thanks for the info!

    What is on my buying list so far:

    1. Ulka EX5 ($47.50 cheapest I could find)
    2. OPV - thinking this one? https://www.coffeeparts.com.au/62040...p-bypass-valve
    3. O rings - these: https://www.amazon.com/007-Silicone-.../dp/B000FN0WYG

    Questions I have so far:

    1. Assume the pump will simply screw into the bottom of the OPV?
    2. The return to tank - how large is the pipe? this has a 5mm outlet.
    3. Whats the purpose of the elbow - thinking with this OPV I wont need it?

    Last question - should I also replace the solenoid, or just the gasket at the moment?

  24. #5424
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    That doesn't look quite right. The OPV it is known to work with nearly no modification is this one: Expansion Valve E614.

    (check this too:
    *) https://www.home-barista.com/repairs...od-t43690.html
    )

    I will *strongly* advise you to make sure the length of the thread of the brass OPV is equal to the plastic one you're replacing.

    The elbow adapter is what he could purchase at the time. I managed to get my hands on straight BSP-press-in adapter. Makes no difference, other than perhaps the elbow gives you slightly more leeway, the 4mm teflon tube may feel a tad taught on the straight press-in.

    The 007 o-rings look ok... I don't think there's a right/wrong answer with them - Silicone or Vitton or whatever else: poteyto-potahto. As long as they withstand high temperatures - you're cooking (so to speak)

    Regarding the solenoid: Have you got any troubles with it? If you do then change it, if you don't then leave it. It's actually a very easy to replace part at any time.
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  25. #5425
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    taught -> taut (stupid autocucumber)

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    Thanks again Inorog,

    Ill go the expobar and see how I go!!

    RE: solenoid - Ill leave it for now.

    Will report back once done!

  27. #5427
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    Quote Originally Posted by inorog View Post

    (check this too:
    *) https://www.home-barista.com/repairs...od-t43690.html
    )

    I will *strongly* advise you to make sure the length of the thread of the brass OPV is equal to the plastic one you're replacing.

    The elbow adapter is what he could purchase at the time. I managed to get my hands on straight BSP-press-in adapter. Makes no difference, other than perhaps the elbow gives you slightly more leeway, the 4mm teflon tube may feel a tad taught on the straight press-in.

    The 007 o-rings look ok... I don't think there's a right/wrong answer with them - Silicone or Vitton or whatever else: poteyto-potahto. As long as they withstand high temperatures - you're cooking (so to speak)

    Regarding the solenoid: Have you got any troubles with it? If you do then change it, if you don't then leave it. It's actually a very easy to replace part at any time.
    I had a laugh, I contributed to that HB thread in that

    In any event, even though my -900 (with -920 group), is working great (of course, I have kept up with routine maintenance by replacing o-rings, solenoid, and steam ball valve), and I have the stock plastic OPV set where I like it and it's working fine too, I have finally ordered up the parts to do the brass OPV mod anyway, just for the fun and bling of it. And your writeup of the process was part of my motivation. Thanks mate. I'll report back how it goes. Some parts are on backorder so I don't know when for sure I'll get to it.

    I ordered an angled elbow, but now you have me wondering: Was there plenty of room to use the straight up and down connector you used?

    Also, I ordered some spare 4mm PTFE tubing with the Breville ends on it, in longer lengths, so I don't have to cut off the properly fitted stock one. See I want to keep my machine easily reversible to stock, so that if everything goes to crap, I can take up the Breville USA offer for $350 to repair or replace, which includes post both ways to repair shop.

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 30th March 2018 at 07:53 AM.
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  28. #5428
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    I had a laugh, I contributed to that HB thread in that

    In any event, even though my -900 (with -920 group), is working great (of course, I have kept up with routine maintenance by replacing o-rings, solenoid, and steam ball valve), and I have the stock plastic OPV set where I like it and it's working fine too, I have finally ordered up the parts to do the brass OPV mod anyway, just for the fun and bling of it. And your writeup of the process was part of my motivation. Thanks mate. I'll report back how it goes. Some parts are on backorder so I don't know when for sure I'll get to it.
    Hurray - I'm helping!!

    I ordered an angled elbow, but now you have me wondering: Was there plenty of room to use the straight up and down connector you used?
    Yeah - there's plenty of space, the tubing doesn't touch the top lid at all. As a matter of fact - I don't think that the brass OPV is any taller than the plastic one, once mounted. And you're in luck - I still have a straight press-in-to-BSP connector here as a spare (I bought 2):
    IMG_3670.JPG

    Also, I ordered some spare 4mm PTFE tubing with the Breville ends on it, in longer lengths, so I don't have to cut off the properly fitted stock one.
    Good thinking, Batman!

    See I want to keep my machine easily reversible to stock, so that if everything goes to crap, I can take up the Breville USA offer for $350 to repair or replace, which includes post both ways to repair shop.
    -Peter
    Ahm, a noble endeavour.

    However - it's unlikely that you'll need to do that once you've sorted these niggling things out.

  29. #5429
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    Quote Originally Posted by inorog View Post
    However - it's unlikely that you'll need to do that once you've sorted these niggling things out.
    What's been niggling me lately is the foreboding sense that Breville is setting up to abandon the BDB. It's been nearly four years since the -920 was released, and up until fairly recently, commonly replaced service items like steam ball valves were generally pretty available. Now, the ball valves appear to be considerably less so. Also, there used to be a slew of other replacement parts out there that you would rarely if ever need and now they are almost all listed as "obsolete, no longer available". Of course, it's no big deal if you never need them, but I take it as a sign that Breville might be getting ready to abandon the BDB, with no known replacement. And I don't want to have to buy the Oracle Touch, whose grinder I would probably never use, just to get the commercial grade, BDB temperature stability. For now, the solenoids still seem widely available, and the o-rings are off the shelf items that we are not reliant on Breville for... Same with the Ulka pumps, which are in no danger of short supply either. But I bought a spare steam ball valve and solenoid and stashed them away for future use. So I am probably good to go for a while. Now, if Breville had some kind of all new BDB in the process, that would at least be something... But I haven't heard of it if they have...

    -Peter
    Last edited by pcrussell50; 31st March 2018 at 05:26 PM.
    inorog likes this.

  30. #5430
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    Eh, with the stash of spares you've got, if you get 10 years out of an appliance - I think that's pretty good for a "consumer level" unit.

  31. #5431
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    What's been niggling me lately is the foreboding sense that Breville is setting up to abandon the BDB.
    -Peter
    I think you're right on the money here. I wanted a new Cranberry Red BDB and were told by Breville last week that they were discontinued. The beginning of the end of life, I wonder....

    Greg

  32. #5432
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    Meh - one door closes, another one opens. :P

    Ino-collector's items-rog

  33. #5433
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    So, I posted a few months ago about my BES900's NTC (yes i wrote etc )
    has anyone been able to source hex headed style NTC's? they're off the early model 900's

  34. #5434
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    Hey guys, thanks for all the committed help on this machine, I've read a whole heap of good info that's come in handy for future maintenance here.
    I registered to thank the main contributors and to ask for some assistance if anyone can spare a second.

    I have the BES900 and it was only getting to about 4 bar, no leaks, steam pressure fine, no visible corrosion inside, no quirks, just couldn't reach pressure, even blocked up, only got to about 5-6 bar.
    I replaced the main pump, immediately produced a good shot at 11 bar, blocked up, max's out at 13 bar, resolved.

    A few days later, same issue, again no water leaks, seemingly no pressure leaks, I've noticed water returning from the main boiler, which is then pumped back in, very slowly I'm just guessing this is normal in maintaining the pressure in the main boiler (steam boiler).

    If I block it off using the rubber "descaler" portafilter blocker, it reaches maximum pressure thereabouts, but when drawing a shot I don't get the expected 3 bar pre-extraction pressure build and unless I really tightly compact and what I'd consider "over fill" the portafilter with coffee, I can't get more than about 6 bar, expecting 11.

    I really appreciate any suggestions and thanks again for all your contributions to date!

    Cheers

  35. #5435
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    In addition to the aforementioned, could someone suggest a nice stainless grinder / dispenser which goes well with the BES900? I've seen a few that are predominantly black or the obviously new electronic ones but I'd prefer something plain, less lighting, more manual appeal.

    Thanks!

  36. #5436
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    Excellent to see this thread still going.

    My 900 is making twanging/buzzing noises from the pump when it first gets energized, still seems ok but i suspect I'll be replacing it.. might as well go brass with brass opv at the same time, so thanks for the links.

    I also have a dripping steam wand and occasionally hear a noise as if a water drop is dripping onto the boiler, haven't opened the machine up, however I think I need to investigate sooner rather than later based on your findings about steam leaks!
    inorog likes this.

  37. #5437
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    hi everyone,

    my BES900 has started to have a few issues.. first the hot water tap does not work, I turn it and nothing happens. Also, I can hear steam leaking inside as it gets hotter, so guess its the o-rings on the boiler. Any suggestions on where to get new orings?

    thanks

  38. #5438
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    Well it looks like I have a crack in the group head collar insert of my BES900XL which is causing water to spurt from the group head during a shot. I'm confident I can fix it myself but the hard part is getting hold of a replacement collar insert. Anyone been in a similar situation recently and can advise of a source?

  39. #5439
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    Hey Edski - if you do a search for "collar" in this thread - you'll find out that it was quite extensively discussed...

  40. #5440
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    All, seeking your collective wisdom.

    I have enjoyed my BES900 without issue for 7 years.

    However the usual symptoms are now starting to appear - dripping and hissing from the steam wand during and after warmup, and just this morning the pump made an odd noise and the pressure dropped during a pour.

    Everything I read in these threads suggest that I could get my machine back to as-new with a replacement pump, new seals, etc ...

    However I am a dangerous idiot if you put a tool in my hands, likely to cause damage to both equipment and myself.

    I would happily pay someone in Melbourne to overhaul my machine if any of you know anyone who provides this service and you think the price would be reasonable.

    On the other hand, I could pick up a second hand unit for about $650 (with a grinder I could resell) and perhaps get a few more years from that one.

    Or lastly, I could just use mine until complete failure, reconcile that it has cost about $200 per year to have owned the unit, and go and buy something else.

    Given my options:
    a. overhaul
    b. replace with second-hand BES900
    c. drive it into the ground and buy a new model of something

    what do you think?

  41. #5441
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    I'd go with the "a).", but I'm biased because I can fix things myself.

    b) is an unknown - kind of "blue-sky planning" - making the assumption that everything is going to pan out honky-dory when you could get something worse than you have.
    c) tends to come around pretty quickly after the first signs of failure showed up - so it's really not that much of an option.

    Have a look/search in this thread - there may be addresses/names of business which may be able to help you.

  42. #5442
    Member clubbi4's Avatar
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    Take it to JA Appliances in Coburg. They are good honest people and get him to give you a quote. They do warranty work for Breville and last time I took my machine there they were super fast (done in 2 days) go to the breville website if you can't find their info or let me know and I will pass it on.
    Also I think good guy have them on sale for $799 and HN have them for $888. I bought 1 a couple weeks ago from Bing Lee on Ebay for $720
    cheers
    inorog likes this.

  43. #5443
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    Inorog, Clubbi4, thanks for your thoughts and feedback.

    If I go down the repair path I can easily see costs escalating and delays incurred.

    I think I will bite the bullet on this one and just buy a new machine.

    Inorog - you were right about C coming around pretty quickly. This weekend when a pour has started, pressure had gone up to 10 bar as expected, then quickly dropped to 8, then slowly decreased until the pour finished. It looks like it is on its last legs.

    A real shame too because I still get great pressure out of the steam wand.

    Time to sell it on eBay for parts I think.

    Cheers!

  44. #5444
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    Just to follow this up, I have been doing a lot of research over the last few days and am surprised that there is no good replacement for the BES900 that has all the same bells and whistles. I thought I might go down the Lelit path but I found it really hard to think about going back to single boiler, having to do cooling flushes, and not having niceties like auto-wakeup.

    I just found Harvey Norman has the BES920 for $799 delivered to my door and placed an order.

    Even with some of the potential issues that users have noted with the BES920, I had a great run with the BES900. I will be interested in testing Breville's 2 year warranty if the need arises - especially given that some parts see to be already no longer available.

  45. #5445
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    What parts for the 920 are you referring to not being available?

    thanks

  46. #5446
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    OPV, steam ball-valve, various temperature and boiler-level sensors, wear-and-tear bits such as the plastic collar in the group head, silicon membrane for the 3-way valve...

    Enough to be considered a risk - for certain people...
    jcrayon and BOR15 like this.

  47. #5447
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    Quote Originally Posted by inorog View Post
    OPV, steam ball-valve, various temperature and boiler-level sensors, wear-and-tear bits such as the plastic collar in the group head, silicon membrane for the 3-way valve...

    Enough to be considered a risk - for certain people...
    Everything you've listed there (aside from the collar insert which has been discontinued for years) is still readily available from Breville. Not readily available to the end user as spare parts resale is barely profitable but Breville still stock the parts.
    jcrayon likes this.

  48. #5448
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    @noidle22 - Yeah - I know that, you know that, but some still consider it a risk in their heads. Oh well... can't save everyone, especially from themselves.
    jcrayon likes this.

  49. #5449
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    Just picked up my Breville BES920 today. Harvey Norman have them at $788 which was just too low to pass up. Rancilio Silvia with PID currently being marched smartly out the door, marking the end of Rancilio Silvia in this house after 12 years and two machines, V1 and V2. Still have the Rocky grinder though.

  50. #5450
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    jcrayon and inorog like this.

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