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Thread: Sunbeam EM6910 Repair pointers...

  1. #51
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    Hi.
    I have read a number of your posts and you have a substantial knowledge of the good old EM6910.
    I have had one such machine for about 6 years and certainly have had plenty of good coffee over the years.
    Apart from having the collar replaced it works ok but just this week when turning on the machine the power light keeps blinking and does not complete the warming up stage to fully light up the main board.
    This machine has only had double filtered rain water as we in Adelaide have similar water issues that you have in Perth.
    Could you possibly help?
    Thanks.
    Claytonbay

  2. #52
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Hi Claytonbay
    A bit more info may help with a diagnosis.
    Can you feel any of the external panels or top getting warmer?
    Can you hear any clicks, hisses or splutters coming from the machine when you first turn it on?
    Sounds like the problem could be with a thermobloc heating element or sensing thermistor or, least likely, a control board problem.
    I would not recommend taking any panels off to investigate further unless you have had some experience working around 240V appliances.

    Trev

  3. #53
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    Just replaced my 6910 with a new 7000 as it was nicely discounted. I had the 6910 for nearly 5.5 years fault free, but a month ago I was doing a descale and towards the end the sound from the machine changed and got louder, and there was a leak. Then it started to leak immediately after completing each espresso shot when the pump was stopped. The leak would come from the rear left bottom of the machine, and just a small amount of water would come out. The machine still does this and the espresso shots are still as good as ever. The actual reason for replacing the machine was that the steam stopped working. When I turn the knob I hear the switch work but no signs of life from the steam pump. It was intermittent for that month prior.

    What would be involved in fixing, is it possible to DIY (noted the comment above about working with 240v appliances though), and it would only be done to sell the machine.

  4. #54
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    First thing I'd check for the steam issue is take the knob off. I had similar with mine and turned out the screw inside was undone. I did it up and steam then worked perfectly.

    Leaking water at end of shot - maybe the valve there? If you press the shot button, you hear a pre-infuse cycle. Wait ti the pump pauses and press the button again to stop the pump and you should hear the valve work. This often sends a little water down into the tray. (remove the tray and you can see the chute in the middle where the water goes)

    Other than that, try opening the back panel, and run a cycle and see if you can see where things are leaking? Wear goggles - it may leak under pressure.

  5. #55
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Hi daleftw
    It looks like your old 6910 may have multiple faults and if you are not confident working with mains appliances it may be better to sell it 'as is' and cut your losses, although it sounds as if you have had a good run out of it.

    To help you make a decision the following info may help -

    When I was looking for a secondhand machine a while back I watched prices on Gumtree and Ebay fairly closely for a month or two and my overall impressions of the market were -
    Good working machines could be had for around $150 - $200, $50 - $100 more for ones with grinders and other accessories.
    The most common faults with machines being sold as faulty were "steam not working".
    Faulty machines were usually under $50.
    The prices of s/h machines seemed to be falling significantly with the availability of new SB and Breville models.
    In the end I picked up a late-ish square button model in excellent condition for $140 and an older fully working one for around $60 as a spare.

    I would suggest that if you feel confident enough to safely delve inside by all means have a look as there is heaps of info and pictures on this forum to guide you, but if you need to replace parts it may not be a viable proposition and you could be putting yourself and the new owner at risk with unsafe repairs. Sorry to sound like a conservative nanny but I have a great deal of respect for mains voltages!

    As regards to diagnosing the faults in your machine, can you hear the steam pump making a very quiet "brrp brrp" sound when you open the steam valve? If you can this would tend to rule out the control board, steam switch and pump solenoid coil and indicate a stuck piston and/or valves in the pump or blocked thermobloc.

    Hope this helps
    Trev

  6. #56
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    Daleftw, the position you describe, rear left, suggests the steam pump solenoid has a leak. If you steam is also not working then that is where you should look. Take the left cover off and you will be able to see it all. Perhaps your cleaning dislodged some gunk in the steam thermoblock, blocked the steam line and caused a pressure build up that resulted in a leak. It is potentially an easy fix if you can follow the directions in various posts on how to clear the steam lines.
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  7. #57
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    Thanks for the suggestions, unsure what I might do with it. Doesn't seem like it'll be worth paying anyone to fix (doubt anyone will even so much as pop a cover off for under $100)


    Might be best just to sell as is, and let someone more adept sort it out, if they have bought themselves a bargain then that's great, I'm just keen to make coffee with my new machine and hopefully it lasts a similar amount of time as the old 6910. I did sell a 6910 for $250 about 2 years ago but that was a second machine I had bought for work (they didn't have an espresso machine...the horror)

  8. #58
    RJB
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    I don't see this problem listed so here goes. I bought a second hand 6910. I have 2 now. This one has a an issue with building pressure. The gage barely goes into the yellow arc and vibrates a bit during the pour. It doesn't develop any crema and the coffee is pretty average. I noticed it hisses a few times out the tray while warming up. My original machine does not do this. I've put a couple of tablets through the head and a reservoir of solution through as well. No effect.

  9. #59
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Hi RJB
    Solving your lack of pressure problem is a process of elimination.
    First you need to decide if it is due to grind/tamp or a machine fault. Since this is your second machine you are probably OK with getting the grind/tamp just right (unless you are using pre-ground coffee and/or pressurised baskets!!!) so you need to fit the cleaning disk in an empty basket and try several back flushes while watching the gauge. Do it several times as the rubber disk sometimes fails to seat properly in the double basket on the first try. Also, while doing this, remove the drip tray cup rest and watch for water coming from the outlet tube at the back - it should only flow as brief burst at the end of each extraction cycle. If you get a flow continuously it could be that the solenoid valve is stuck or jammed with grounds. If this is the case try several detergent back flushes (Caffeto or Sunbeam tablets) before considering dis-assembly. A steady trickle during pumping could also indicate a weak or stuck-open pressure relief valve on the water pump.

    Other possible causes of low pressure could be -
    Water leaks from the group seal or internally (pipe fittings, solenoid valve)
    Pressure gauge in-accurate.
    Faulty or worn water pump.
    Partial blockage in the pipe between the water heating thermoblock and solenoid valve.

    With the exception of the group seal these all require opening the machine up which is not a good idea unless you are confident you can do it safely.

    Also, I think a bit of hissing into the tray during warm-up is normal.

    Hope these suggestions help - let us know how you get on.

    Trev

  10. #60
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    Hello. I'm trying to repair a Sunbeam 6910. I have replaced the main board due to a power surge. Machine now turns on and works but after about 10 minutes, it powers down by itself. Pressing the power button will make it switch back on and start it's startup procedure. Could it be a thermostat or thermo fuse faulty? ?? Thanks, Greg

  11. #61
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    Good username, do you have a Gen 1 or Gen 2? I drive an '06 3 in cosmic blue, great car.
    If your username for some reason does not mean what I think it means then disregard this somewhat odd statement.

    On to the problem, if the safety thermostats trip on either thermoblock, the machine should appear as though it is in heat up mode, I don't think it powers down completely.

    Simple way to check, remove the lid and wait until it turns itself off. Be careful as many live components are accessible.
    Quickly remove the power plug from the wall and with your multimeter set to continuity, test the thermostats on both thermoblocks. You may need to remove the side panel to gain easy access to the steam thermoblock.

    Iif the thermostats are open circuit, there will be no continuity, if they are ok then you will have continuity across them.

    The machine does have a sleep mode but this is only activated after an hour and is symbolised by a slow flashing red power light.

    I suspect there could be a defect with your replacement circuit board. Where did you source it from?

  12. #62
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    Hi. Thanks for the information. I drive a 2006 Mazda 3 mps aurora blue. Add me on Facebook https://m.facebook.com/Greg.Meredith?ref=bookmarks

  13. #63
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    The circuit board was an old board which had a faulty triac in it. A new board was fitted to the customer's unit.

  14. #64
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    First post guys, my Sunbeam Café series steam pump appears to be out of action. Where is the everyday man on the street able to purchase a new one from? direct through Sunbeam? Or do you need a sympathetic repair man to source one for you?

    I thought I found a post yesterday that had a link but cant find it today!!!!

    Thanks

  15. #65
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome vllk55y
    New steam pumps are readily available either online or from a local coffee machine service centre - perhaps if you advise where you are located someone will make a better recommendation (site sponsor?)
    Just a suggestion that you check first to make sure that it is your pump at fault as the other common culprits for no steam are the microswitch at the steam valve or a blockage in the steam steam path (thermoblock, tubing or steam wand)
    Trev

  16. #66
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    Thanks man, located Taree NSW, have found one at Shire Spare EM6910111 - Shire Spares and Repairs $60 ????

    Microswitch is functioning, pump is making no noise at all, there has been water leaking from the pipe between the pump & the themoblock, which has run down onto the pump & the pump is fairly corroded. I'm no tech but I'm getting 240V at the red wire at the pump.
    Thermoblock is heating OK.

    Give a new pump a try?

  17. #67
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    there has been water leaking from the pipe between the pump & the themoblock, which has run down onto the pump & the pump is fairly corroded.
    That certainly increases the chances that the pump is faulty. You could pull it out before ordering a new one and do a few checks to further improve the chances -

    See if the steam path is clear by trying to blow air or water through it with the steam tap on. Connect to the bottom of the steam thermoblock. A syringe and suitable plastic tubing helps here but don't spray water over the works.

    If you have a digital multimeter use it on Diode range and measure across the pump solenoid terminals once you have it out of the machine and totally disconnected. Reverse the leads and note the new reading. It should read around 1V one way and open circuit the other if it is still OK. If you don't get a reading of around 1V it is probably shot and is most likely to be the culprit.

    Mind you, the problem could still be with the control board and this is not easily, or safely, checked. The fact that you could get a reading of 240v at the pump terminal does not indicate that the board is OK as the power is controlled by switching the neutral. It's also rather risky!

    Above all, make sure that the power is off and the plug pulled from the wall before you do anything internally.

    Also, that price is about right for a new pump. You will also probably need a new o-ring seal for the pipe connection at the top of the pump as well.

    Lastly, if you don't feel confident or experienced enough to do the job please take it to a repair centre - it's all too easy to do more damage and/or seriously injure yourself. (Sorry about all of the warnings but not knowing your skill level makes me err on the side of caution.)
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  18. #68
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    will test the pump as suggested, and yes have flow through the steam path, so no worries there.

    Yes very careful, only tested the voltage at the pump as it was easy to access. Everything else done with power disconnected.

    Thanks again

  19. #69
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    Hi noidle22,
    Yesterday I pulled out the steam pump thinking it was a stuck piston. It was moving freely even though I put a drop of veg oil to cover myself. Put it back in but still no steam. There is a slight intermittent noise coming from the internal to show that it is trying to make steam. Wondering if the pump has died. Used a multimeter on the terminals of the pump but no continuity buzz sound which makes me think it's had it. What do you reckon?

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbycoffee View Post
    Hi noidle22,
    Yesterday I pulled out the steam pump thinking it was a stuck piston. It was moving freely even though I put a drop of veg oil to cover myself. Put it back in but still no steam. There is a slight intermittent noise coming from the internal to show that it is trying to make steam. Wondering if the pump has died. Used a multimeter on the terminals of the pump but no continuity buzz sound which makes me think it's had it. What do you reckon?
    You won't get continuity on the pump terminals, it's diode protected. As per Xanthine's post a few down from here, set the multimeter to diode test and test again. You should have open circuit one way and 0.6-1V the other way.

    You mentioned that you can hear a faint buzz when operating the steam, this would indicate that the coil is ok as the pump is trying to work.

    You can remove the pump from the machine, connect the wires and the water inlet tube and run the steam and see what happens. Ensure that the terminals are not touching the machine chassis or any other parts of the machine. Do not touch the pump at any point when the machine is idling or pumping.

    If the pump now sounds strong and a slow but steady dribble of water is coming out then the pump is ok. There would most likely be a blockage in the steam thermoblock, associated piping or steam wand if this is the case.
    Removal of all of the copper lines is easy with some 10mm spanners. Simply blow through them all to see if there's any restriction. If there's no blockage in any of them, blow through the steam thermoblock. Lightly attach the upper copper tube back onto the block to blow through.
    If there's a blockage in the thermoblock, you can try to clear it with a strong descaling solution and a syringe to force it through or reassemble the machine and try to run the descaler through.
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  21. #71
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    Hi All, My 6910 is now over 7 years old and hasn't skipped a beat. Cleaned regularly and still makes a fantastic coffee.

    Alas, the steam valve doesn't like to turn itself off without a bit of fiddling, and when giving it a good clean yesterday, the housing has started to rust in a couple parts. The physical off position for the steam is now a good cm below the White mark where it started out.

    While good with general repairs around the house, I am not so handy with repairs to electrical things. I assume the spring has gone on the steam switch. How difficult is this to replace for a none handy person?

    Alternative, any good small electrical repairers in the Sutho Shire that could be recommended?

    Tempted to hold out and replace the whole unit when they go on sale around Mothers Day, but the newer models seem more plasticy.

    TIA
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  22. #72
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    Yeah unless you can fix it yourself probably get something new,,,,,,you could buy a good used one for a couple of hundred , either for use or parts
    I use ours for the van now , bought a breville bdb and a used commercial grinder = better

  23. #73
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    Not hard to replace the steam valve, dont even need to take the top off.

    The steam switch actuator can be adjusted to switch the valve on and off properly. There are stops at either side of the knob and the actuator is probably hitting one before the valve is fully closing.

    May be worth upgrading to a Breville dual boiler, you'll appreciate the difference.

  24. #74
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    Thanks for your suggestions. Much Appreciated.

  25. #75
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    EM6910 Steamer

    Hey all first-time/long-time,

    Appreciate the copious amounts of good advice in this thread (and others).

    My EM6910 steamer gave up the game over the weekend. No buzzing sound from the thermoblock at all. I suspect it is the microswitch, because prior to the weekend the steamer knob had been giving me some grief.

    I went to JayCar to get a replacement switch, but what is the most efficient way to get to the place I need to get to in the machine (i.e. what parts do I need to take off, and how?)

    Appreciate the advice!

  26. #76
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    Hi all, I bought a second hand em6910 a couple of weeks back. Guy swore it was in perfect working order. Got it home, switched on ok but no water or steam would come out. Took the water tank out, put it back in again. Still the same. Switched it off and on again and it started working. I have another em6910 and it makes a very different sound to it. The machine now is not producing any water. Am intending to take it to the sunbeam repairer to look at it this weekend but just wanted to check if there was anything I could try before doing that. Noidle suggested I try turning on both steam and water but that didn't work. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

  27. #77
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    Stuff it, imma get a 2nd hand gaggia classic instead!

  28. #78
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    Hi Townsy
    Sorry to see you haven't had a reply to your question yet - I held off replying as I was not sure if the switch could be replaced by only removing the steam knob and bezel or if the top of the machine has to be removed as well, and was hoping someone who had done it this way would come back with an answer.
    I have replaced a switch on one of my machines but did it while the top was off, which involves quite a bit of work, so it would be more convenient to do it via the steam knob opening if this is possible.
    If you use a Jaycar replacement switch you would need to solder the existing leads to it and possibly sleeve them with heatshrink. You would also need to check that the actuator lever is the same length as the original so that it switches correctly with the cam. I used a cheap Ebay switch and had to cut the lever to length. Care also needs to be taken when soldering these switches as it is easy to overheat them and damage the mech inside - it may be possible to use connectors instead.

    Also, be aware that your problem may not be due to the switch - can you hear it clicking when you turn the steam knob? You may also be able to get the probes of a multimeter onto the terminals in situ to check it's contact resistance.

    If you do resort to removing the top of the machine first take care when lifting it on and off as it is a fairly tight fit over the switches and it is easy to break them or the mounting pins.

    Sorry I couldn't give you a more definite answer but I hope it helps.

    Trev

  29. #79
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    You're a good guy, trev.
    Thanks for the tips!

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    Hi ...first timer
    I have an EM6910 and im having trouble with it. When I start to make the coffee it sounds fine but then the sound goes quiet and the machine seems like it cant force the water thru. water is fine with no handle in there and pressure is good. Also works with double filter basket in but not with dual floor basket. I have tried to clean it but still wont work. Also my pressure gauge isnt working.
    Any help would be great. Thanks

  31. #81
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Hi riddo61 and welcome
    Sorry to see you have not had a reply yet but hopefully I can be of some help.
    There are a few things which could be causing your problems so a few tests are needed to isolate the fault.
    You said you have tried a clean and I would presume this is with the cleaning disk and a tablet or Cafetto in the basket.I would also suggest you try a brew thermoblock descale using vinegar solution in the water tank as per the manual. While doing a clean or backflush (not descale) watch to see if the solenoid valve is operating correctly and releasing a spurt of water into the back of the tray at the end of the pressurising cycle.
    Once you have tried this let me know how you get on and I will give you some other suggestions if not successful.
    Good luck
    Trev

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    Quote Originally Posted by riddo61 View Post
    Hi ...first timer
    I have an EM6910 and im having trouble with it. When I start to make the coffee it sounds fine but then the sound goes quiet and the machine seems like it cant force the water thru. water is fine with no handle in there and pressure is good. Also works with double filter basket in but not with dual floor basket. I have tried to clean it but still wont work. Also my pressure gauge isnt working.
    Any help would be great. Thanks
    I notice you say, "works with double filter basket in but not with dual floor basket". If you can make an espresso using the double basket, then stick with this. Search here on Coffee Snobs forums for plenty of feedback about using dual floor baskets - they are not popular! The general advice is to bin them (or to have them modified to remove the floor with only a single pin-hole).

    That pin hole may be your problem - did you use the little pin tool to poke around and unblock it?

    There is a gap between the walls of dual floor filter baskets - a lot of crud can accumulate there. Another reason to avoid them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xanthine View Post
    Hi riddo61 and welcome
    Sorry to see you have not had a reply yet but hopefully I can be of some help.
    There are a few things which could be causing your problems so a few tests are needed to isolate the fault.
    You said you have tried a clean and I would presume this is with the cleaning disk and a tablet or Cafetto in the basket.I would also suggest you try a brew thermoblock descale using vinegar solution in the water tank as per the manual. While doing a clean or backflush (not descale) watch to see if the solenoid valve is operating correctly and releasing a spurt of water into the back of the tray at the end of the pressurising cycle.
    Once you have tried this let me know how you get on and I will give you some other suggestions if not successful.
    Good luck
    Trev
    Thx so much for the reply.

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    Thx mate. I appreciate it

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    Hi Folks my machine has not skipped a beat for at least 6 years now,touch wood. But I noticed the water pump sounds like it is straining and pulsating while extracting, the sounds are not its usual. Anyway it can take 2 runs to get a full 60ml shot, so i am wondering if it is the pump saying bye bye or it needs further cleaning etc
    After a descale and back wash [sunbeam stuff] it is not any better. The grind is my usual so nothing changed there. The calc filter is a few years old too is that a possibility, can they be reused or refilled without replacement?
    Any ideas thanks

  36. #86
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    Yea you need a new pump. Pulsing/surging and poor output is common on these machines after a few years.

    Some people say you can soak the anti-calc in a salt water solution to recharge it but I've never tried it or know if it really works. They're only around $20 to replace anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by noidle22 View Post
    Yea you need a new pump. Pulsing/surging and poor output is common on these machines after a few years.
    Are they any easy fix for the average DIYer or is it a service appointment?

  38. #88
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    Hi guys. New to the forum. First time poster.
    Just got a 2nd hand 6910. It fires up ok.
    Couple of questions.

    There is a constant blinking red light near the water window. What does that mean?

    How do I know it's up to temp to use? Apart from the one red and 3 greens up top?

    Thanks very much.

    D.

  39. #89
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    The blinking red light indicates water container is empty. Top strip of lights on steady indicates ready. The user manual is available to download online, try a Google search.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    Hi again Pennyc

    Check the following for more info about a 6910 than you will probably ever wish to know (this was my first CS post, which is why I stored the link):-
    My New Machine

    Basically, the 6910 will steam brilliantly IF it is clean. Unfortunately, as I know I posted (prob on same thread) "correctly steam the milk or the wand will clog". I have seen quite a few shockers. Get your hubby to try cleaning it "properly", if that fails then take the wand off altogether and soak it in a good solvent (he should be able to use toluene safely: it has worked as a last resort on the worst ones I have seen).

    Do you have the SB 6910 DVD? It actually has the correct way to steam milk plus a few other 6910 tips worth knowing.

    Due to a snafu I have a few spare DVDs here in Rockingham: pay for postage and one is yours... (applies to any CSr's until I run out).

    TampIt
    Hi Tampit. Newish to forum, 6910 is my first machine. Can I ask for a DVD if you still have them? Happy to pay for post.
    Thanks. Will PM you should it be affirmed.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by delishdinesh View Post
    Hi guys. New to the forum. First time poster.
    Just got a 2nd hand 6910. It fires up ok.
    Couple of questions.

    There is a constant blinking red light near the water window. What does that mean?

    How do I know it's up to temp to use? Apart from the one red and 3 greens up top?

    Thanks very much.

    D.
    G'day delishdinesh

    "constant blinking red light near the water window": There is a very basic "float and magnet" setup that flashes that light when the water is too low. I have seen several 6910's where the magnet has rusted out and the light is on even when the water tank is full.

    Let me know your situation via PM IF the light stays on. I probably have a stray one here somewhere that still works. It is also pretty easy to make your own.

    Quote Originally Posted by delishdinesh
    How do I know it's up to temp to use?
    A 6910 warms up in about 90 seconds. If you need to pull a shot in less than (say) 10 minutes, just do a preflush "single shot of plain water" through the group (with p/f & basket in place) before proceeding as the rest of the mechanism will not be fully up to temperature. Beats hell out of waiting for 1/2 an hour for a boiler to heat up all the water and still have to preflush it anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by delishdinesh View Post
    Hi Tampit. Newish to forum, 6910 is my first machine. Can I ask for a DVD if you still have them? Happy to pay for post.
    Thanks. Will PM you should it be affirmed.
    PM sent about DVDs.

    Enjoy your cuppa - all else is irrelevant.

    TampIt

  42. #92
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
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    1
    Hi All,
    Just wanted to say a big thank you!
    I've had a 6910 for a few months now and had a problem with it recently. I found my way here looking for information on it, and you have helped me fix it
    The problem I had was the steam pump was always pumping when the mains power was on, even before the power button was on. I had pulled the covers off to look inside and see what I could find out myself. I read a number of posts on this and other threads here and have learned a lot about my machine. I finally diagnosed it to be the steam pump TRIAC (electronic switch). I took a photo of it and went to Jaycar for a replacement. They didn't have the exact same component but did have a compatible unit for $3.75. I removed the broken one from the 6910 control board (fiddly but not terribly difficult) and soldered in the new one. It worked!! Very happy
    I didn't even have any screws left after re-assembly.
    $3.75 and several hours (mostly researching) well spent. I've learned so much I recon I could almost be a 6910 fix-it dude. Maybe I'll make it a sideline
    Thanks again to everyone contributing here, and I'm glad I've found this forum. Making better coffee is now on the cards.

  43. #93
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    3
    EM6910
    Steam Wand stopped working suddenly.
    Liitle bit of brown water underneath unit roughly where steam pump is located.
    Took side panel off unit and the surrounds of the steam pump are rusted.


    Wanted to check that it was the pump and not the micro switch that is at fault.
    Can get the outer steam knob off, but not the inner plastic that is screwed to the brass spindle - just cannot get the screw to turn.
    So I can't get to the micro switch to test it.


    With the unit disconnected from the power socket, I took the back off (side is already off) and removed the red and black wire from the steam pump.
    I then attached these wires to a multimeter to see if 240v ws registered when the unit had heated up and the steam knob was turned.
    But to my surprise the multimeter registered 240v across the pump wires as soon as the unit was plugged in and turned on at the wall ie before pressing
    the black power button on the unit and before the unit heats up and the steam knob turned.
    Is this expected behaviour? If power is always to the pump how does it only work when the knob is turned? Is it that some sort of pulse is sent over the same wires?


    Is there any other way of eliminating the pump or micro switch as being at fault given I can't access the micro switch (I will drill the offending screw out if
    I know for sure the switch is at fault).


    Thanks

  44. #94
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Sep 2014
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    S.A. - South Coast
    Posts
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    Hi Steve
    I will make a few suggestions here but it's been some time since I last worked on a 6910 and I could be a bit hazy on the details.
    From memory, the active supply goes direct to one of the pump solenoid terminals and is switched to neutral on the other terminal via the control board electronics.
    With no load (solenoid) connected there is probably enough leakage through the control board to register 240v across the two ends of the supply wires so this is not a good indication.
    With the leads to the steam pump disconnected you could measure across it's terminals with your multi-meter but note that the internal diode in series with it's coil makes this a bit tricky. The meter would need to be set to diode test and 2 readings taken with the probes swapped between each. If the coil is OK one reading would be 0v and the other would be around 1v.

    To test the microswitch without removing it you could unscrew the control board and lift it to one side to get to the two leads from the microswitch and measure across them with the meter on resistance range - you should see a change from high to low resistance as the steam knob is opened and closed. There are two pairs of white microswitch leads to the board - one from the hot water knob and one from the steam. I think they are labelled on the board.

    If you do any of these tests please make doubly sure the wall mains switch is off and unplugged for safety!!!

    By your description it sounds like the pipe connection at the top of the steam pump has worked loose and leaked water down over the pump. This tends to be a common fault with these machines.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Xanthine; 19th December 2016 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Fixed typo

  45. #95
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    15
    Hey all
    First up thanks to all the awesome info on this forum. It's been such a help to do little repairs to my machine and grinder!

    So I'm now I'm tossing up what to do. My em6900 was given to me over 3 years ago. So I don't even know how old it is. The collar is worn. I just replaced the seal and water keeps pouring out everywhere. So should I repair the machine myself? I have seen the guide on the forum here and it look straight forward. The pats about $70 or should I put that towards a new/2nd/refurbished machine? I do love this machine but I don't want to waste money if something else goes wrong soon again. I'm thinking about upgrading to the em7000 or the dual boiler BES920.
    What do you guys think?

  46. #96
    Senior Member Xanthine's Avatar
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    Sep 2014
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    S.A. - South Coast
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    Hi swiebenga
    If your machine is a 6900 I would not recommend trying to repair it as they are a real PITA to work on compared to the 6910. The casing is quite different to the 6910 and, whilst the internals are similar, there is not much info on the forum for the 6900.
    As a suggestion you could try shimming the seal and removing any lipping on the collar if present to see if that helps but in my opinion the 6900 is not worth spending money on.
    You may be able to get it working long enough to let you decide what you want to replace it with.
    Personally, I am very happy with my 6910s because I have a spare on hand if one gives problems and I am familiar enough with them to do any repairs should they be needed. I am also quite fussy about regular cleaning and servicing, although that is important for any machine.

  47. #97
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    15
    Quote Originally Posted by Xanthine View Post
    Hi swiebenga
    If your machine is a 6900 I would not recommend trying to repair it as they are a real PITA to work on compared to the 6910. The casing is quite different to the 6910 and, whilst the internals are similar, there is not much info on the forum for the 6900.
    As a suggestion you could try shimming the seal and removing any lipping on the collar if present to see if that helps but in my opinion the 6900 is not worth spending money on.
    You may be able to get it working long enough to let you decide what you want to replace it with.
    Personally, I am very happy with my 6910s because I have a spare on hand if one gives problems and I am familiar enough with them to do any repairs should they be needed. I am also quite fussy about regular cleaning and servicing, although that is important for any machine.
    Thanks for the info! I feel the same way it's not worth repairing. I'm keeping an eye out for a new/ 2nd hand machine in the mean time.

  48. #98
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockingham W.A.
    Posts
    890
    Quote Originally Posted by swiebenga View Post
    Hey all
    First up thanks to all the awesome info on this forum. It's been such a help to do little repairs to my machine and grinder!

    So I'm now I'm tossing up what to do. My em6900 was given to me over 3 years ago. So I don't even know how old it is. The collar is worn. I just replaced the seal and water keeps pouring out everywhere. So should I repair the machine myself? I have seen the guide on the forum here and it look straight forward. The pats about $70 or should I put that towards a new/2nd/refurbished machine? I do love this machine but I don't want to waste money if something else goes wrong soon again. I'm thinking about upgrading to the em7000 or the dual boiler BES920.
    What do you guys think?
    G'day swiebenga

    Thanks to 5 senses "repairing" my 6910 collar by replacing it with a 6900 one (which does not fit properly and only spent a total of 2 frustrating weeks in my machine before the minor day one leak became major), I actually have a "very near new" 6900 collar. Yours for the cost of postage. feel free to PM me for details / check with Oz Post for postage from Rockingham WA.

    I agree with the other posters - not worth spending a lot of money on the 6900 as the 6910 is a much better machine (i.e. can make much better coffee).

    Hope this helps.


    TampIt
    swiebenga likes this.

  49. #99
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    3
    Update re post #93 and #94

    So I bought a new steam pump and fitted that without any problems. Initially the steam wand worked but after a few uses the effectiveness of it weakened. So I decided the machine must have a blocked or clogged artery (pipes) and that caused the heart (steam pump) to stop.

    So with reference to this thread: Sunbeam EM6910 poor(er) steam.. any ideas?

    .... I first of all tried the solution in post #5 and that worked to start with as I noticed lots of gunk and discolouration in the water. But after a few repeats of this process the wand stopped again. So I determined that there was a real blockage.

    So next I tried the solution in post #4 and like that poster I found the top elbow and pipe blocked. But as I did not have a syringe handy I used a version of the solution in post #6. But intsead of using a bucket I just used various lengths of plastic tubing and then sucking on the end to create a natural gravity siphon, letting the vinegar de-scaling solution flow through and do it's job. I first did from the elbow at the top of the thermo-block to the tip of the steam wand (making sure the steam knob is turned to max). I then did from the top to bottom of the the thermo block. I then connected the top elbow and pipe work back up and did one final siphon from the bottom of the thermo block (top of steam pump) right through to the tip of the steam wand.

    Problem solved, now got more steam power/effectiveness than we ever have since we bought the unit.

    NOTE: do all of this with power disconnected from wall and make sure the unit has cooled down before touching pipies or sucking to start a siphon.

  50. #100
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    G'day swiebenga

    Thanks to 5 senses "repairing" my 6910 collar by replacing it with a 6900 one (which does not fit properly and only spent a total of 2 frustrating weeks in my machine before the minor day one leak became major), I actually have a "very near new" 6900 collar. Yours for the cost of postage. feel free to PM me for details / check with Oz Post for postage from Rockingham WA.

    I agree with the other posters - not worth spending a lot of money on the 6900 as the 6910 is a much better machine (i.e. can make much better coffee).

    Hope this helps.


    TampIt
    Thanks for offer! Very kind of you. I'm currently on the lookout for a new machine and will buy as soon as the right one comes up. (Hopefully sooner than latter) I'll let you know if I decide to try replacing the collar myself.

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