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Thread: EM6910 - cant remove shower screen screw

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    EM6910 - cant remove shower screen screw

    Hi all, hope you can help. I'm trying to remove the shower screen screw in order to replace the group head seal. However I just can't budge the screw. I have removed it before, but I think the screw is too worn now as the screw keeps slipping (The machine is about 5 years old now). Any ideas on how to remove? The only option in the forums I've seen it to damage the shower screen itself and then use this to remove the screw. Any other ideas is this the best option? If I need to buy a new shower screen, do they come with a new screw? Appreciate your help.

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    Junior Member MrSoulSong's Avatar
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    Hello carlito.

    When you say the screw is slipping, do you mean the thread is worn and the screw just spins in place? Or the head of the screw itself is worn and you can't get enough torque onto the screw?

    If it's the first one... You may be able to slide a mini flat head screw driver or the like, between the screen and screw as you turn the screw so as to apply downward pressure against the screw to help it out.
    If it is the other you might have a couple of options. You could try using a dremel tool to recut a new groove (flathead would be enough) to help you get it out. Or you could try using an easy-out instead. If the depth into the screw head is not enough for the easy-out to get a grip, you may have to drill into the screw a bit to make it a bit deeper, so the easy-out will get a good bite in and get the screw out.

    I hope you have some luck with it. If you find this too much trouble, or are unsuccessful, you could probably take it to a machine shop (say an engine recondition shop or something... I've done this with non engine parts before and they were happy to do it, it's all money in the end.) They would have all the means to do it quite easily, and quite inexpensively.

    Good luck!

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    Hi, thanks for the reply. Its the latter - the screw head is worn and I just cant turn it without causing more damage to the head. I'll look into the easy out and dremel options, but maybe as you say it might better take it to a machining shop. Do you know where to get replacement screws, if I can actually get this one out? Cheers

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    Often you can use use a small flat blade screwdriver to just fit across the phillips cross and that will work. Done it many times, although not with my showerscreen... The phillips cross usually wears in the centre which lets the phillips driver slip, but the flat grips at the outer edges of the slot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    Hi, thanks for the reply. Its the latter - the screw head is worn and I just cant turn it without causing more damage to the head. I'll look into the easy out and dremel options, but maybe as you say it might better take it to a machining shop. Do you know where to get replacement screws, if I can actually get this one out? Cheers
    Hi carlito

    The good news: The screw is a standard countersunk M43 (whatever that means, however h/w stores will know). Try to get it out without destroying your showerscreen and you can buy a few replacements for very little outlay. As above: easy-out may do it, however the SB original seems to be stainless, so it would need to be pre-drilled.

    TampIt

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    Thanks Journeyman, I will give this a go tonight - hopefully it will work, although the screw seems to be pretty solid.

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    Thanks TampIt, that's great to know - I'll take a look in Bunnings etc. I've just got to get this screw out first

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    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    Thanks TampIt, that's great to know - I'll take a look in Bunnings etc. I've just got to get this screw out first
    Hi again carlito

    Just a thought: if it is somehow corroded into place (no idea how it actually could do that, it really shouldn't) you may wish to pick up some Penetrene liquid (NOT the spray one). It is legendary for freeing corroded stuff (like WA's O'Connor pipeline valves after 105 years underwater without any use since construction). PM me for detailed instructions if it is necessary.

    Predrilling and an easy-out should do it simply if it is not corroded.

    TampIt

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    Thanks TampIt, I'll try that if the flat blade screw driver doesn't work. Is this Penetrene safe to use i.e. it can be washed off ok via a cleaning cycle so as to not affect the taste etc?

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    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    Thanks TampIt, I'll try that if the flat blade screw driver doesn't work. Is this Penetrene safe to use i.e. it can be washed off ok via a cleaning cycle so as to not affect the taste etc?
    Hi carlito

    I certainly would not drink it! It is a very fine oil and will wash off quite easily. The reason I did not suggest it initially is that although it will not affect any metal or alloy I know of, it may destroy the "blue seal" if used in excess.

    Easiest method: Take the water reservoir out and turn the machine upside down. Put a very little drop around the offending screw. Repeat every few hours until it frees up. It may take a few days. FYI: a 1934 Mercedes convertible with the engine half stripped in 1938 took three weeks to spin freely. It appeared to be rusted solid.

    Note: it spreads a long way! A small bottle lasts about twenty years unless you it is in constant use (think marine work).

    TampIt

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    Try heating the machine up before taking it out. I almost stripped the screw completely before working it out, it came out like a charm after!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    Hi carlito

    The good news: The screw is a standard countersunk M43 (whatever that means, however h/w stores will know).

    TampIt
    M4 or M3 perhaps? 4mm or 3mm diameter metric screw - comes in coarse or fine thread.
    It should be easy to check which.

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    Quote Originally Posted by burr View Post
    Try heating the machine up before taking it out. I almost stripped the screw completely before working it out, it came out like a charm after!
    Well I've tried it cold and tried it after heating up, but still no luck. Have also tried flat bladed screwdriver with no joy. I don't think its corroded stuck as I had it off a couple of months back when I cleaned the machine. I must of over-tightened it then or maybe did it up when it was too hot etc. I think that may leave trying to drill and use an easy out. Just so I'm clear, when unscrewing it is anti-clockwise i.e. turning to the left with the machine upside down?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJack View Post
    M4 or M3 perhaps? 4mm or 3mm diameter metric screw - comes in coarse or fine thread.
    It should be easy to check which.
    Cheers, I might have to buy a few different sizes id I end up ruining this one.

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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Not sure if this will be of any use carlito.
    Had exactly the same problem with an early Silvia, no matter how I tried couldn't move the screw.

    Finished up removing the drip tray turning the machine upside down and drilling a hole in the base big enough to fit a square shaft flat blade screwdriver through, you can exert plenty of downward force on the screwdriver and if necessary get a small adjustable spanner on the shaft to turn it.
    Worked for me, the screw came out without much effort and I replaced it with a stainless socket head cap screw, was never a problem after that, all that was needed was a small Allen key.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJack View Post
    M4 or M3 perhaps? 4mm or 3mm diameter metric screw - comes in coarse or fine thread.
    It should be easy to check which.
    Only going on what my engineering workshop friend said. He definitely said "standard M43": then he made me a 316 spare on the spot. Perhaps that is the medical description / spec (i.e. most of his work).

    TampIt

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    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    Only going on what my engineering workshop friend said. He definitely said "standard M43": then he made me a 316 spare on the spot. Perhaps that is the medical description / spec (i.e. most of his work).

    TampIt
    Perhaps, although the ISO standard metric is pretty much ubiquitous from what I understand.

    Its not an M4 with 3mm of thread by any chance?

    Best bet for anyone looking, would be to take it to a fixings specialist and match it. That way you can usually buy just one (as opposed to the box you would be overcharged for at bunnings).

    Edit : Google seems to suggest that pretty much the only use of an M43 thread, is for camera lens filters - but they are 43mm in diameter, and very fine (so probably not the same thing )

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    The pictures suggest that it's too big to be M3. I'd try M4; the Silvia's is M5 if you want to try comparing photos.

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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    As a matter of interest Bunnings screw are Chinese made rubbish, when they are put to the test they either strip, break or the screw recess rounds off.

    Do your selves a favour and buy decent screws from Coventry or United Fasteners, you wont regret it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    As a matter of interest Bunnings screw are Chinese made rubbish, when they are put to the test they either strip, break or the screw recess rounds off.

    Do your selves a favour and buy decent screws from Coventry or United Fasteners, you wont regret it.
    This.

    Also a stainless variety would be great if it's available.

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    Certainly will be. Searles Fasteners is a great supplier if you are in Perth. There is also Blackwoods from memory.

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    I bought mine from stainless store (online, shipped from Sydney). Minimum $25 order, but free shipping. Happy to post one to anyone wanting a new screw for their Silvia, but I would suggest countersinking the jetbreaker first.

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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hildy View Post
    I bought mine from stainless store (online, shipped from Sydney). Minimum $25 order, but free shipping. Happy to post one to anyone wanting a new screw for their Silvia, but I would suggest countersinking the jetbreaker first.
    Generous offer Hildy, and certainly one of the couple of mods necessary on a Silvia, the other is to replace the stock baskets with something better.

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    well, I paid all of 8c each for the screws, so it's just the postage stamp that I'm paying for. if I had more time on my hands, I'd try to buy the jetbreakers in bulk and countersink them in an evening, but my machinist skills aren't so good that I really want to start a small business doing that.

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    You must have bought quite a few for $25 then

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    Any news on how it's going Carlito? :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hildy View Post
    The pictures suggest that it's too big to be M3. I'd try M4; the Silvia's is M5 if you want to try comparing photos.
    Hi Hildy

    Turns out it is a 3mm long countersunk M4. Evidently medicos shorthand it an M4-3 ( did not know about the dash via spoken word). It is a standard enough size to be boring. I think the SB "original" is a low grade stainless (not a 3xx one, that is for sure: slightly magnetic).

    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    If I need to buy a new shower screen, do they come with a new screw? Appreciate your help.
    Hi Carlito

    No, the showerscreen does not come with a new screw.

    How have you progressed? An update would be useful to all CS'r with similar "immovable objects".

    Where are you? PM me and I will mail you a spare if you wish. Note: It won't be the 316 one!... I also have spare showerscreens courtesy of a dead 6910 I encountered. Try not to destroy the thermoblock... (they did).

    TampIt

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    Hi all, thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Good news - I've finally managed to undo the shower screen screw!

    Hopefully the following may help someone else who cant get the shower screen screw out as it may be worn or stuck etc

    1. Turn machine on and let it heat up for a while
    2. Turn machine off, disconnect from wall socket
    3. Turn machine upside down (after removing water tank etc etc)
    4. Place a Phillips screwdriver hex head (for a hex head screw driver, but you don't need the screw driver itself as this doesn't fit in the space between the shower screen and base) into the shower screen screw ( I used a hex head slightly bigger than normal as the screw is worn)
    5. Take a hammer and lightly tap the hex Phillips screw driver head into the shower head screw, until the hex head stands up by itself. Obviously don't hammer hard.
    6. Now take an adjustable spanner and put it on the hex head body and turn while pressing down on the hex head with your thumb to stop it popping out of the screw and voila .... it turns! I had to try this about three times before I got it right but it does work.

    Thanks for the info on the screw itself - I'm currently using the same one but not tightening it correctly as I don't want it stuck again. I'll be visiting a stainless steel fasteners place next weekend as they sell 304/316 grade stainless screws and will hopefully pick up a few spares in case this happens again.

    Thanks once again for the advice.

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    Junior Member MrSoulSong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    Hi all, thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Good news - I've finally managed to undo the shower screen screw!

    Hopefully the following may help someone else who cant get the shower screen screw out as it may be worn or stuck etc

    1. Turn machine on and let it heat up for a while
    2. Turn machine off, disconnect from wall socket
    3. Turn machine upside down (after removing water tank etc etc)
    4. Place a Phillips screwdriver hex head (for a hex head screw driver, but you don't need the screw driver itself as this doesn't fit in the space between the shower screen and base) into the shower screen screw ( I used a hex head slightly bigger than normal as the screw is worn)
    5. Take a hammer and lightly tap the hex Phillips screw driver head into the shower head screw, until the hex head stands up by itself. Obviously don't hammer hard.
    6. Now take an adjustable spanner and put it on the hex head body and turn while pressing down on the hex head with your thumb to stop it popping out of the screw and voila .... it turns! I had to try this about three times before I got it right but it does work.

    Thanks for the info on the screw itself - I'm currently using the same one but not tightening it correctly as I don't want it stuck again. I'll be visiting a stainless steel fasteners place next weekend as they sell 304/316 grade stainless screws and will hopefully pick up a few spares in case this happens again.

    Thanks once again for the advice.
    Fantastic to hear that you didn't have to bugger around too much to get the screw out! Good work! :-)

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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Good result carlito, sounds like an adaption of the method I described, well done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    Good result carlito, sounds like an adaption of the method I described, well done.
    Thanks Yelta, pretty much the same method, although I wasnt sure I would get enough pressure on the hex head this way. Thankfully it was OK, as I didn't fancy drilling through the base

  32. #32
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    Thanks Yelta, pretty much the same method, although I wasnt sure I would get enough pressure on the hex head this way. Thankfully it was OK, as I didn't fancy drilling through the base
    Cant say I blame you, was early days of Silvia ownership, I had no idea the screen needed removing and cleaning regularly, I left it far too long and the screw seized pretty solid, had no option, needless to say I removed and cleaned it weekly from then on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by carlito View Post
    Hi all, thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Good news - I've finally managed to undo the shower screen screw!

    Hopefully the following may help someone else who cant get the shower screen screw out as it may be worn or stuck etc

    1. Turn machine on and let it heat up for a while
    2. Turn machine off, disconnect from wall socket
    3. Turn machine upside down (after removing water tank etc etc)
    4. Place a Phillips screwdriver hex head (for a hex head screw driver, but you don't need the screw driver itself as this doesn't fit in the space between the shower screen and base) into the shower screen screw ( I used a hex head slightly bigger than normal as the screw is worn)
    5. Take a hammer and lightly tap the hex Phillips screw driver head into the shower head screw, until the hex head stands up by itself. Obviously don't hammer hard.
    6. Now take an adjustable spanner and put it on the hex head body and turn while pressing down on the hex head with your thumb to stop it popping out of the screw and voila .... it turns! I had to try this about three times before I got it right but it does work.

    Thanks for the info on the screw itself - I'm currently using the same one but not tightening it correctly as I don't want it stuck again. I'll be visiting a stainless steel fasteners place next weekend as they sell 304/316 grade stainless screws and will hopefully pick up a few spares in case this happens again.

    Thanks once again for the advice.
    Thanks from me too.

    Yrs I am commenting on a very old thread, but it helped me no end.
    I have a 17 year old 6910 and the screw has been removed many times to clean inside the shower, finally the screw was too worn and the advice here helped.
    I replaced the screww from a 5 year old 6910 I wish I had never bought, the quality of the later builds are nothing like the original, it is rubbish. It lasted only 3 years and is just for parts now. I bought this bad 6910 and gave my daughter the old one, Guess who did well in that deal, although she got the cheap grinder.
    I have now bought a 7000 and it is a totally different experience. Where the 6910 was a bit variable, the newer one being very variable, the 7000 is not at all variable and is quiet compared to the 6910 jack hammer.
    zeezaw likes this.

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