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Thread: Sunbeam EM7000 Steam Wand just producing water

  1. #1
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    Sunbeam EM7000 Steam Wand just producing water

    Just recently, my EM7000 has stopped producing steam and just produces water. I can hear the pump but the water is at room temperature. Unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.

    I thought I might post here first in the unlikely event that there is a relatively easy fix here. However, I'm assuming that there is a problem with the thermoblock and it needs to be repaired.

  2. #2
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    After a few years, the relay that controls the steam thermoblock wears out and either stays constantly closed or open circuit.

    In a constantly closed condition, it will continue to apply power to the thermoblock which can then blow the thermal fuse. In this case, the thermal fuse and the relay would need to be replaced.

    If it has failed open circuit, the thermal fuse will probably be ok necessitating only the relay replacement.

    Both of these scenarios will require a Sunbeam authorised technician to do the repair. It involves 240V components and small soldering work. Depending on where you are, I could do this for you. PM me if you want to discuss it further.

  3. #3
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    I took the machine to a repairer, and the problem turned out to be a PCB that needed replacing. I was told it was a common problem. However, the same problem has just happened again. Does anyone know anything about this problem or the PCB being referred to? I'd prefer to try fix this myself rather than take it back.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by sturdy View Post
    I took the machine to a repairer, and the problem turned out to be a PCB that needed replacing. I was told it was a common problem. However, the same problem has just happened again. Does anyone know anything about this problem or the PCB being referred to? I'd prefer to try fix this myself rather than take it back.
    I would contact noidle. CC (West Oz) have never replaced a PCB in a 7000. Your repairer probably didn't actually fix the prob (unfortunately too common in today's "plug and play modular world"). FWIW, I doubt they replaced the PCB either - a bit of circuit cleaner aimed at the board probably freed the relay up temporarily.



    TampIt

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sturdy View Post
    I took the machine to a repairer, and the problem turned out to be a PCB that needed replacing. I was told it was a common problem. However, the same problem has just happened again. Does anyone know anything about this problem or the PCB being referred to? I'd prefer to try fix this myself rather than take it back.
    It was probably the relay on the PCB that I mentioned in a previous post. If the machine is still under warranty, you will void it by doing the repair yourself.

    *Disclaimer*
    These repairs are intended only if you have experience working with 240V components and soldering. This is undertaken at your own risk.
    If you read this and have any concerns, do not attempt the repair and take the machine to an authorised service centre.

    If the machine is not under warranty, the repair is simple enough as long as you can solder components to a PCB. The relay is available from RS Components, part number 719-6341. They cost about $2.50 each.

    Unplug the machine from the powerpoint.

    Remove the plastic base of the machine by removing all visible philips head screws. You will then see the pumps and wiring.

    There will be 4, maybe 5, small philips head screws that affix the metal cover plate over the PCB that are undone from the base of the machine.
    Once these are removed, pull down on the metal plate and the big white PCB case will be exposed. There's a few more philips head screws that hold the plastic cover over the PCB. remove them to gain access.

    Once the PCB is exposed, take a photo or label each wire so you know how to reassemble it.
    Unplug everything and remove the PCB.

    You will see a row of small black boxes, these are the relays. There will be a spade terminal on the PCB that says steam or steam heater or something like that, I cant quite remember.
    Follow the track on the PCB from this terminal and it will lead to one of the relays. This is the relay you need to replace.

    Desolder the relay, the new relay will be a direct fit. It can only go in one way due to the pin layout on the relay.
    Resolder and reassemble.

    Test the machine, it should now work properly.

    If you still don't have any steam, possibly the relay failed closed instead of open which means the thermal fuse on the steam thermoblock will have blown.

    To remove the top of the machine to access the thermoblock, remove the small lid on top where you access the water inlet and filter basket storage. Squeeze the plastic hinge pieces inwards and the lid will come off.
    Remove the 5 or however many it is philips head screws that affix the lid to the plastic housing. There are 2 more screws under the front of the machine that also need to be removed. You can see the 2 access holes by looking up under the front of the machine.
    The lid slides forward and up. There will be an earth cable attached to the lid that needs to be removed. Remember to reattach this upon reassembly.
    You can rest the lid to the side of the machine without needing to disconnect the red and black wiring harnesses however they can be removed for easier access.

    The steam thermoblock is laid out horizontally at the back of the machine. The thermal fuse is the part attached to the thermoblock in the white material shealth with blue wires coming out of it.

    This is a 240C rated fuse, available from RS, part number 176-9356. You will need a good quality crimping tool and terminals to crimp multi strand wire to the single pin of the fuse. Do not solder these as it will heat up enough to melt the solder. Ensure that the white material sheath covers all exposed wiring from the fuse and is in good condition. The body of the fuse is at 240V and will short to the thermoblock if there is any damage to that sheath.

    Reassemble and test. You should be good to go.
    Journeyman, sturdy and zeezaw like this.

  6. #6
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    Thx noidle. Glad you decided to help here.

    Add one to your good karma pile.

    TampIt

  7. #7
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    I have an EM7000 which is 2 year old and out of warranty. A couple of weeks ago between making cups (ie the machine was on and idle) there was a loud popping noise. Now the steam wand is not working properly. It makes the same noises but produces a small amount of steam and a bit of water. Also water is leaking from the bottom of the machine while the steam wand is on. Descaling cycle didn't help.
    I am guessing I may have the same problem as the OP. I will try taking it apart and and see what I find.

  8. #8
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    Going to have a crack at this over the weekend. I have experience soldering and crimping, so all should be well. Thanks for your help!

  9. #9
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    Did this repair tonight and it worked a treat. Ended up having to replace the relay and thermal fuse. Interestingly enough, the previous repair done at the shop also replaced the thermal fuse but just soldered the new fuse in. I wonder if that contributed to it failing.

    Regardless, really appreciate your help noidle!!

  10. #10
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    Would this be the PCB in question?

    eBay link removed as per Site Posting Policy Sunbeam COFFEE MACHINE EM7000 Main PCB ASSY Part Number-EM70018 Ellis Electrical

    cheers
    Last edited by Javaphile; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:50 PM. Reason: Removed eBay link(s)

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