Either way, its a lovely looking setup mate.... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
I think I will get the cs DDM, as I can use it for roasting too. However I notce they are out of stock right now.
Regarding the restoration, I really just gave it a clean and insulated the boiler. The exterior was that nice chrome when I got it.
Either way, its a lovely looking setup mate.... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Interesting. *I dont get any steam from the group when doing a cooling flush. *Temp from the group during "cooling" flush is about 90 degrees. *Shot pulled 45 seconds after cooling flush is at 93 degrees. Followup shots all at 92-93.Originally Posted by 50555A5101000705340 link=1285131773/48#48 date=1290197923
Just measured this today with a fast response thermocouple bead that measures 99 degrees in a pot of boiling water.
Any advice or comments? *i havent yet checked or played with the water level in the boiler.
Dane - superb work on your setup, looks awesome!
Gday Mike.... :)
I wouldnt touch a thing mate, its as close to perfect as is possible to get in my opinion.... 8-)
Hi Mal, yep "if it aint broke dont fix it", right?
Still want to try the 0.8mm gicleur. Ill post some photos soon!
The DMM/thermocouple was NZ$50 from Dick Smiths.
Havent read the whole thread so apologies if this is already covered. Make sure you have a very good filtration system, otherwise that .8 will be down to .0 in no time at all. ;)Originally Posted by 6662606E72546A7E6F62646C6E6E600B0 link=1285131773/54#54 date=1290334104
Yep the gicleur has a fine mesh filter screen upstream. I have a new screen and will replace it when I replace the gicleur.
A bit late I know but it might be of interest. Mix it up only as per the instructions on the tub, I used hot water and make sure you wear eye protection and rubber gloves when handling it. I found that it didnt like aluminium, or steel or stainless steel (turned them black and lots of pitting) but I experimented with a couple of cleaning techniques.Originally Posted by 3C39363D6D6C6B69580 link=1285131773/0#0 date=1285131773
Brass & copper will be fine. If you find there are a few subborn bits use a bit of elbow grease or a pressure hose after youve rinsed the part or boiler. A couple of times I found the the vanish had done its job but there where bits that needed a light rub over to remove the really bad bits. I use those non scratch scourers or a cloth while it was wet after rinsing.
I hope this helps. Vanish was great stuff. I found citric acid too hard to find (the local brewers didnt seem to stock it in bulk) and vanish wasnt too expensive. I still have some left even after all the cleaning I did to my San Marino.
Machine looks great! Much better than AMs which I saw last week.
OK measured the flow from the group with the stock gicleur: 250ml in 12-13 seconds.
Do you mean the 0.8mm?Originally Posted by 686C6E607C5A6470616C6A6260606E050 link=1285131773/58#58 date=1290417848
Nah, stock as in whatever is in there. *I havent yet fitted the 0.8 and I havent removed the original. *No markings on the outside of either gicleur to indicate jet size. *Stay tuned.
P.S. the spare parts catalogs seem to indicate that available gicleurs are 0.8mm and 1.2mm and that stock is 1.2mm.
Fitted the 0.8mm gicleur last night and got 250ml in about 50 seconds. It blocked once so had to remove it. Will do another flow test tonite.
The original gicleur looks to be 1.2mm and well worn. Will try to measure it to confirm.
Wow, 250ml in 50sec is less than I thought it would be. I get 125ml in 10 sec but I have a 0.6ml in.
It sounds like you might still have some blockage? Either that or my pump is seriously turbo :)
Yep blockage. With the blockage cleared I get 250ml in 17 seconds from the 0.8mm gicleur.
I too recently purchase a nice little example of one of these units, and plan a clean/restore. Would you mind providing me with pdf goodies also?Originally Posted by 7E727B76767F130 link=1285131773/27#27 date=1288865968
The Uno has been pretty good, but I was always a little dissapointed with the milk. I think the standard steam tup is pretty average, IMO the holes are too large for the steam pressure and the result is not enough agressive turbulence to create really small/fine bubbles.
So, I was mucking around with it yesterday in some spare time, and by blocking all 4 holes with fine wire, thereby reducing their guage, the steam is much more agressive/trunbulent and the microfoam goes from around an 7.5 to 9.5/10. It is a little slower (maybe 20%) but the qaulity of the foam is so completely different it is rediculous.
Even compared to my old Elektra Mcal, this is soooo dummy proof it is stupid.
Does anyone have an Uno with a non-standard tip on the steam wand? I cant continue with the current mod as it is not practical, but Im also not going back....
give pedro @ Coffeeparts a call he may have others to fit
the ones on my gamma look just like the uno size = same and 4 holes (i have a uno as well but not working)
I have a new Carimali Uno project in the shed. It is the P version (not volumetric) but still has autofill.
The problem is that the autofill is not working. Normally I would think that the control box is junk, but the pump works for brewing, and the autofill light and solenoid both operate fine.
So I had a look, and have completely confused myself. Con someone tell me what a standard configuration of plugs on the back of a control box is usually?
In the picture below, starting from the bottom:
Blue is power,
Brown (lower 2) is power,
White is autofill sensor,
Grey is earth,
Brown (opper one) is piggy backed to brown below, and provides the power to orange.
Orange (x2) one is for autofill solenoid, and the other is for the light.
Now, I may be going crazy, but am I missing a wire for the pump?
I think I figured it out, but now I am even more confused. I refered to the wiring diagram, and it seems that the autofill control box only lights up the auotfill lamp and opens the solenoid, but doesnt power the pump. You then hit the brew switch on the front which kicks in the pump and hey presto, water goes into thte boiler.
But that is a seriously weird way of doing things. Am I crazy? Can someone who has used a Carimali Uno P please let me know how the boiler is filled?
Ha ha ha, I am such an idiot.
If I had line pressure the boiler would have filled.
Sorry for all the junk posts.
I own an E and a P. The E needed attention so Ive stripped it down and cleaned it up. There was a bunch of sand in the boiler? Is that normal?? Its got a blown element, so thats a mission for me to do. The touch pad is working on only one button, Im assuming its the touch pad at fault and not the relay it plugs into...is my logic correct?
While I was in the mood i pulled the other machine to bits (the P) Ive cleaned the group head and put it back together. It was blocked worse afterwards than before! OK so I back blew the group head with compressed air. (line back to the boiler disconnected) As you probably already know..for that to work i had to have the machine on and the brew lever down so the valve up by the group head opened. All good.
Its now brewing at a snails pace. Boiler is at a good pressure and hot. I never touched the pump. Im getting 250ml out in a flow test in about 35sec. But with a load of grinds in its ridiculously slow. it wasnt before.
You say there is a "bunch of sand in the boiler?"* no that is not normal. I would say there is scale in your boiler and/or heat exchanger.
I have Carimali Uno E that I am restoring, and my boiler is rattling with "sand also.
Once I remove the heating element and possibly the heat exchanger I will descale it.
Got My Uno E. Seller told me how well it was looked after . Looks like I need a URL to attach a Photo . That must explain all the missing photos in these threads. URL expiry etc.
Anyway I did 2 overnight citrix baths. Got the element out( Fare size pipe wrench with a chrome barbell sleeve as an extension) and couldn't believe the scale mostly at the bottom of the boiler. Took out the Muriatic Acid mixed it down and did a couple of treatments of max 10 minutes. You can hear it eating away the calcium ?/ Deposits. I'd be a fortnight with Citrix acid trying to descale that crap . I think the element is reusable it worked before dissembley. Have to clean up some parts on the motor mounts and the look at a couple of solenoids on the lower front. Hopefully can put humpty back to together again. Resoaking the Boiler overnight in Citrix solution to counter any Muratic acid residue.
I have a Carimali UNO I have owned since 1987 that is in need of some restoration. I have completely disassembled the machine (with many pictures - how to upload?) and now need to remove the boiler element so as to install a new one (how to do that as it doesn't want to budge?).
A question I have about the old element is what is the small open pipe coming out of the element head between the electrical connection points? (see other posters images above) - and why doesn't water just flow out of there? The reason I ask is the replacement element I got (coffeeparts.com.au) doesn't have that hole - the replacement also looks somewhat a smaller thread size which has me a little worried - at least until I can get the old one out!
In addition to the boiler element I also disassembled the group head and will be replacing the O-rings (coffeeparts.com.au)
I have a question that refers to the part that is shown in an image i'd like to attach (but don't know how!) that comes from inside the group head (2 bolts on top hold it into the group head) it has the ss mesh attached to the bottom of it and seems to be made of chrome plated brass (or copper) but after cleaning it it is now mostly now just brass (or copper) and my question is whether I simply should have it re-chromed or not?
If anyone has restored a Carimali UNO I would really appreciate any advice - I will have some more questions once I locate someone with UNO experience.
Last edited by McMurraj; 25th August 2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Add Image
My terrible twins are misbehaving...
Both my 'E' and 'P' are now displaying the same fault: No steam or hot water. The group is working fine, pumping/hot. But not a peep out of the steam wand or hot water spout.
Any suggestions gladly acted upon.
I have completed my rebuild now and it all is working ok - but I do need to get all the machine settings correct - does anyone know all the steps to follow to get the settings correct?
The pressure showing on the gauge at the front is .9 bar when the heating turns on and 1.15 bar off (do I adjust the Sirai to change these?)
Are there any other adjustments - such as rotary pump etc?
Glad to see the recent posts. I got my Uno E back together ! Built the Bar counter in the basement. Plumbed in a $40 Rona water filter . And made a few brews. I get 1.4 to 1.5 bar . The motor and pump are working ok now. I was concerned at first that the pump didn't start, had the start cap checked. Checked teh voltage on the block pump terminal block. it was getting power and had a peak inside the black box , nothing obviously wrong. I notice after I brew a double shot, it's quite wet on top of the Coffee and quite a bit of mess on the brew head. I'm reading these threads and probably need a manual. The boiler pressure seems fine . I think I can increase the pump pressure with that screw on the side of the pump? The pressure might be a bit low , or if not the grind could be adjusted.
Post #74 my water disperser seems more brass than chrome now. I just checked a pdf for the part name , and it looks quite chrome in the picture--- not sure --only if it would affect taste ? Also I got used to my Gaggia Classic in the meantime, and while the steam pressure is nothing compared to the Carimali - the Carimali tip doesn't create good foam yet.
Could someone tell me how far in the water level sensor should be? Or how high the water should be if I stick a wooden probe into the hole? I have my sensor almost fully in and since the rebuild when the water cuts off there is a sort of tinny hollow click sound emanating from the machine that I don't remember from before the rebuild -maybe not enough water?
I now understand about the posting of images - as a newbie you cannot post images until you have made 5 posts and been a member for at least 2 weeks. - this is my post #5 so I'll test it out soon. Once this milestone is reached you can upload an attachment (incl. images I guess) without needing he URL link.
OK - I have uploaded all my rebuild images to Flikr into a public folder and this is a link - this looks like a good way to post access to multiple images eh?
Hey thats Awesome the top pictures sure do it justice. , glad you found out the Upload policy. Any thoughts about the actual coffee ? I don't see the advantages of a auto machine for a Barrista @ home . Some more learning yet , on how to tweak it .
I have the E model ,some notes of difference. The Element is straight , The pump looks a bit different and the water intake block as well. The hoses are braided on the pump assembly. (The one thing I didn't clean yet) . For the person asking about the centre hole on the Elements, from previous SPA experience it's used for a temp gauge probe.
Thanks Mutti - I used to own a small snack bar on the beach in the '80s so my Carimali is from way back then (in storage for about 10 years during the 90s). As far as coffee is concerned I am not any real expert so I just tend to buy what I like and is convenient from coffee shops I come across from time to time - I might settle on one at some time - but I doubt it! An example of what I think is good is Zentvelds Coffee from near Byron Bay. I am tweaking every day at present.
Hey, could you have a look and see how deep in your water sensor is set? (see #79).
My old element was straight but in the restore I bought a new on as I was told the old one was broken (not sure about that now!) - the old straight one was 1600w but the new one from CoffeeParts is only 1500w.
I love the braided hoses - if ever my water hoses need replacing I will do that. It was me asking about the element hole - so thanks for your answer - anyway it's moot now as the new spiral element doesn't have it.
I started out thinking I'd need a new Element , some of the quotes I got were horrendous. Again using my SPA skills , got my voltmeter . Check both leads to ground on the element (The nut should work) If it's not open( Beeps on continuity) then you should get about 10ohms across the leads. In my case just the plastic on the terminal connecters was blackend. I cleaned it up with citrix acid and burned off some crud with diluted Muriatic acid.
RE: level . Not sure this will help , but there is almost 3/8 inch of thread showing on the stainless nut and about the same amount of the while plastic sleeve showing out the top of the nut, then the smaller plastic with the sensor elbow. (Part looks newer might have been replaced)
Correction, on spas the center probe well is for a high limit sensor
Hi Mutti, just posting an image to the Forum via quick reply to test my permissions - the machine is working great now - to adjust the water level I simply pulled the stainless rod out a little more - all seems good.Carimali 1..jpg
Hello Coffee Amigo's!
Not sure if anyone is still reading this thread - its been going since 2010, so who knows?
I recently found an UNO E and Rancilio MD40 for under $400 - i'm yet to see them but according to the seller its all in excellent condition.
Anyone have some advice on issues to look out for? I don't mind taking on a project - if there is a manual someone could send me, would be much appreciated too. email@example.com
More to come once i have it in my hot little (soon to be recaffeinated) hands!
I'm here , the other Continent AKA Canada.
My Carimali Status.
I put some Citrix mix in the anti vacuum valve . Cleaned out some more blue / green color. Not really sure where you are supposed to enter the cleansing fluid on a plumbed in machine.
I went to make coffee the next morning and my extra drip tray was totally full. Turned out that just the water pressure was taking the bar gauge all the way to 1.4 and water was dripping out the pressure relief valve and a couple other places. With the device unplugged it would still do this. I took the vacuum valve out again, for cleaning and took the pump out. as well as it started to drip. jcbeverage USA got some photos of my pump and for sure the valve need replacing.
They have lots of procon pumps for a reasonable price. They want to know the flow rates of my Carimali pump but I can't find specs for that on any manual on the net. The numbers on the pump 39/91 apparently don't tell them anything.
I think a new pump might be a good idea if that keeps me going for a while as it appears to be dripping now. They might be able to rebuild it but with shipping and some comments I read here the rebuilds are questionable.
A new pump would probably give me a better creama which seems to be minimal currently. So Old machine quite a few questions about it on my end. Looks like I'll have to get it to Vancouver and have a tech go over it.
I wonder also if there's lead in the welds on these brass boilers as a health issue ? 20 + yr old machine.
The UNO E are built like tanks if you can see it working and it makes good coffee compare the two and decide. I'll send you the manuals I just found downloaded them the other day finally.
Still learning lots about Barrista and the Technical working of espresso makers. Lots of good general info on the WWW .
I Figured it was time to clean the last few components since the home rebuild.
The water inlet block and braided hoses. They was guite a bit of blockage in the inlet block screen.
I put the pump in citrix bath and after putting it all together the pump leaked out both holes near the spline.
I ended up getting a procon 2 from Espressotec for about $165 CAD free shipping.
That made a huge difference, I made my best ever shot Capuccino today , more on that later.
The other issue i was having was the solenoid ( 2 way parker) on the water block was leaking slowing into the boiler.
I cleaned everything and still had the issue overnight if I left the water on. The gauge would max out and drip out a couple of spots.
Did lots of reading and looking at diagrams. Couldn't find a Parker solenoid yet.
I did find a local shop and got some back flushing equipment and a mineral filter to replace the basic chlorine one I was using , and some good info.
I lowered the line pressure a bit and I think the Solenoid is holding now. !
Doing the back flushing cleaned out a wealth of oils and crap.
Now the creama is awesome, taste is much better, I just need to get better with the steam wand.
Could still use a Brew head pressure gauge and some way to check the water temp coming through the group head.
None of the manuals I could find have any info on the three adjustment screws on the control box.
If anyone has a doc, that would be great info.
The Shots are pretty sweet , so I'm staying with this Italian Commercial machine while it running so good.
Hopefully the panels will go back on SOON.
Best wishes all
Carimali Uno E.
Needs New Boiler , End of Life. Why
I assumed the water intake solenoid was worn out and causing the Boiler to overfill and max out the pressure gauge.
I followed one techs advice to check the HX for leaks.
In my case this was to :
disconnected the line from the water block to the boiler.
left the top pipe from the water block to the top of the HX exchanger connected.
With it unplugged and the water pressure then turned on , you can hear the water leaking into the Boiler from the HX tube and eventually over filling the boiler.
Too bad as the machine was only home used in it's 20+ years and didn't look to bad especially after some of the other pictures I see here .
So short of finding a boiler, its past the last Shot.
Anyone have any ideas where I could track down a replacement boiler for Carimali Uno-E???
mine has a crack in the heat exchanger
Try contacting Carimali via their website as a start. They should be able to point you to the nearest source of parts...
Chances are the replacement might well be more than the value of the machine though...
I realize it's super dated but, wow!, what a great thread! Great job on the restore Dane5431!
I was going to attempt to restore the same espresso machine for the co-op that I volunteer at. I work on my 02' LR Discovery so how hard could an espresso machine be. From the looks of the restore now I'm not so sure. Where do I even begin? I finally found the manual but it's only a parts manual not a true service manual/shop manual so I'm not sure what I would replace if I open it up. I was hoping for a list of recommended seals and replacement parts . I'm now wondering what I just got myself into. This machine was given to us and has been sitting in our warehouse for nearly a year. Sadly, there is water still in the reservoir. I can't imagine what that looks like. We can't afford to buy another one. Any suggestions are appreciated!! Thanks!!
There are however some schematics for the Uno to be found here: http://coffeesnobs.com.au/documentat...chematics.html
Java "Date what?" phile
Toys! I must have new toys!!!
You never know your luck in a great forum!