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Thread: Espresso Diagnosis - I need help!

  1. #1
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Espresso Diagnosis - I need help!

    Hi all,

    I'm having issues with my espresso set-up. So many issues that I've become quite disheartened with the whole process. I have a Diadema Perfetta single boiler and a Compak K3 Touch grinder. Years ago this combo was working brilliantly for me... But the issue that I have now is that the grinder does not seem to be able to get fine enough for espresso. If the grinder does get fine enough, it chokes up on the next grind and refuses to grind. I can hear the motor trying to work, but the burrs don't spin. I took the grinder to get it serviced a few months ago, the guy did say these grinders can get clogged with fines and refuse to grind. He cleaned it out with compressed air and lubed the top burr and gave it the all clear. The problem came back pretty quickly. I then took it to a highly regarded espresso company offering a free training course. With a kg of their beans we dialed in the grinder and the grinder gave us no problems at all (typical). When I took it home and tried my beans the problem returned. Most of the time (at home) I'm using home roasted beans, but I have nought beans from a local cafe and experienced the same problem.

    I'm wondering if the problem could be one of the following:
    1. I'm using a convex tamper? I've had this since I bought the machine and had no troubles whatsoever
    2. Home roasted beans? Could they be too fresh?
    3. Could this be caused by a roast that is too light?


    I would appreciate any help anyone can offer. I really want to sort this problem out, I miss the days when my set-up was working without issues... I'm happy to provide any extra information you might need.

    Please help me!

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    This is the sort of thing that is much easier to fix if you have a buddy that knows espresso and can come over and have a play, and much harder via a discussion thread. Having said that if you want to try fixing via a thread you are best off using fresh commercially roasted beans to narrow down the source of the problem. Pick whatever looks good on Beanbay, and buy enough of it that you have ample opportunity to experiment with various grind sizes. Post video links here to show your workflow and results

  3. #3
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Sorry, can you just clarify - is it the grinder that’s clogging up and ‘choking’ or the coffee machine?

  4. #4
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyC View Post
    Sorry, can you just clarify - is it the grinder that’s clogging up and ‘choking’ or the coffee machine?
    The grinder. I wish it was the machine...

  5. #5
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    G'day David...

    Sounds like the Start/Run Capacitor is cactus mate.
    You can either obtain one and install yourself or bring it in to a reputable service agent and have them do it.
    It's a quick and simple job and the capacitor itself is inexpensive...

    Mal.

  6. #6
    Site Sponsor SpiceBean's Avatar
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    Hi David,

    I also run the Compak push at home and have experienced this problem when trying to grind too fine. Have you tried grinding slightly coarser and increasing the dose if possible (the convex tamp may be playing a part here)? How many grams is your dose at the moment? I also have used home roasted beans and if they are roasted very very lightly, the bean has lots of moisture and tends to clog the burrs a lot easier. Also how long does it take to pull one shot? if your trying to make it soo fine that the shot takes over 35s for 60ml this could also be an issue. If your running an 18g filter than your brew time range should be about 25-30 seconds for a 60ml yield. Also maybe you just need some new burrs??

    Let me know how its all going?

    Mike

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    My experience is similar to SpiceBean. Interestingly it usually coincides with removing the top burr for cleaning.

    Do you run the grinder whilst adjusting it?
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    I hope you get to the bottom of this
    When you say 'years ago' it is easy to suspect the burrs.
    It might be wear and tear of certain parts; when looked at individually maybe insignificant, but combined effects can amplify the problem.
    If your basket is very heavily used, over the same time period as the grinder, it may need replacing. Holes do get bigger with use and wear, which naturally prompts you to grind finer to compensate. We're taking about gradual shifts over the months and years. Combine this with not as sharp burrs like before, maybe the burr clearance is too narrow now? This can maybe explain your constipation?
    You took your grinder in to a company/espresso course, got it dialed in, and was working ok there. Assuming you took only the grinder, with their good basket, it maybe didn't need to go as fine? Well, if you took your grinder home and used it without changing the setting, and then it clogged again, then we can suspect the beans.
    Home roasted or store bought, it gives you blockages.. your preference has gradually changed over the years to lighter side? They are harder than darker roasts. Maybe you are buying more high grown beans? They are denser. Lightly roasted denser beans needs more torque to grind through. Again, aging grinder might struggle, whereas new might fly through them.
    Having said all that, exactly when the grinder stops is another indicator to what might be the cause. Is it the moment you turn it on? Towards the end of the grind?

  9. #9
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    I have a K3 grinder as well. If you adjust to finer, make sure to adjust it while the motor is running. That way I could adjust even finer than what I previously calibrated to be the “zero” burr-touching-burr point (judging by the scale marking on the adjustment collar) without jamming.

  10. #10
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dimal View Post
    G'day David...

    Sounds like the Start/Run Capacitor is cactus mate.
    You can either obtain one and install yourself or bring it in to a reputable service agent and have them do it.
    It's a quick and simple job and the capacitor itself is inexpensive...

    Mal.
    Hi Mal,

    I should have added that if I wind the grind coarser it will start grinding again. Then I can even adjust finer back to where it was originally choking and it will continue grinding as long as I don't let go of the "go" lever.

    Quote Originally Posted by SpiceBean View Post
    Hi David,

    I also run the Compak push at home and have experienced this problem when trying to grind too fine. Have you tried grinding slightly coarser and increasing the dose if possible (the convex tamp may be playing a part here)? How many grams is your dose at the moment? I also have used home roasted beans and if they are roasted very very lightly, the bean has lots of moisture and tends to clog the burrs a lot easier. Also how long does it take to pull one shot? if your trying to make it soo fine that the shot takes over 35s for 60ml this could also be an issue. If your running an 18g filter than your brew time range should be about 25-30 seconds for a 60ml yield. Also maybe you just need some new burrs??

    Let me know how its all going?

    Mike
    Hi Mike,

    I'm using an 18g VST and dosing 23g. I don't have much more room to increase. My 60mL yield is occurring in less than 15 seconds.

    Quote Originally Posted by MrJack View Post
    My experience is similar to SpiceBean. Interestingly it usually coincides with removing the top burr for cleaning.

    Do you run the grinder whilst adjusting it?
    Hi MrJack,

    Yes. Always.

    Quote Originally Posted by u2jewel View Post
    I hope you get to the bottom of this
    When you say 'years ago' it is easy to suspect the burrs.
    It might be wear and tear of certain parts; when looked at individually maybe insignificant, but combined effects can amplify the problem.
    If your basket is very heavily used, over the same time period as the grinder, it may need replacing. Holes do get bigger with use and wear, which naturally prompts you to grind finer to compensate. We're taking about gradual shifts over the months and years. Combine this with not as sharp burrs like before, maybe the burr clearance is too narrow now? This can maybe explain your constipation?
    You took your grinder in to a company/espresso course, got it dialed in, and was working ok there. Assuming you took only the grinder, with their good basket, it maybe didn't need to go as fine? Well, if you took your grinder home and used it without changing the setting, and then it clogged again, then we can suspect the beans.
    Home roasted or store bought, it gives you blockages.. your preference has gradually changed over the years to lighter side? They are harder than darker roasts. Maybe you are buying more high grown beans? They are denser. Lightly roasted denser beans needs more torque to grind through. Again, aging grinder might struggle, whereas new might fly through them.
    Having said all that, exactly when the grinder stops is another indicator to what might be the cause. Is it the moment you turn it on? Towards the end of the grind?
    I took my whole setup to the espresso course. Grinder, machine, my scales, my baskets.

    Let's assume I've labelled my grinder between 10 and 1 over the espresso range. 1 is the finest. I grind for a shot on 5, pull the shot, get 60mL yield in 15 seconds. Adjust to 3, grind, yield in 20 seconds. Then I press the grind lever again to adjust finer and nothing happens. Like I said, I can hear something happening, but no action. Does that help?
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  11. #11
    Site Sponsor SpiceBean's Avatar
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    yeah 23g, 60ml 15 secs is quite coarse indeed. Even 20secs is quite coarse for a 23g dose. Sounds like a bit of a mystery, however it may just be the burrs. If I was you I would get some nice new burrs put in and see if that fixes it, this is going to be cheaper than buying a new machine. If that doesn't work than maybe a new machine is needed. Keep in mind though that these grinders are very durable and when used domestically should last a very very long time.

    Mike
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    Hi David, I am not far off being a newbie, so my comments may be wide of the mark. But, is not 23gms into a 18gm VST 4gm too much. 17-19gms is the norm I think? As such you are grinding too fine and choking the grinder. Is the 60 ml yield the result of severe channeling. Have you always -used this basket- this dose (23gms). How is the headspace try the 5cent test, how heavy do you tamp to get 23gms into to 18gm basket. I would try a 19gm dose and work from there. I also would not listen to my advice on technical questions like this. good luck hope you fix it soon. John

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    Quote Originally Posted by David8 View Post

    I took my whole setup to the espresso course. Grinder, machine, my scales, my baskets.

    Let's assume I've labelled my grinder between 10 and 1 over the espresso range. 1 is the finest. I grind for a shot on 5, pull the shot, get 60mL yield in 15 seconds. Adjust to 3, grind, yield in 20 seconds. Then I press the grind lever again to adjust finer and nothing happens. Like I said, I can hear something happening, but no action. Does that help?
    Yes, every info helps you to help us to help you
    In most grinders, especially if you are in the fine grind end of the grinder setting, you need to keep the machine running, with beans in the hopper and continuously grinding beans while dialing the setting to finer. Wasteful, but this is ideal to avoid bean jam in between burrs (not the fine coffee powder blockage). Sometimes you can get away with dialing finer if your grind chamber is empty, with no beans being fed. The worst is grinding chamber full of beans, and while stationary, you shift the dial to finer. Going coarser has no such effect. You can do it with grinder off and with or without beans inside.
    (please take no offense, none intended; mentioned it just in case someone else might have same symptoms. Judging on the limited set of info to go on, It's a classic Noobie encounter, but.. Since you are familiar with your setup for years, this is unlikely)

  14. #14
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpiceBean View Post
    yeah 23g, 60ml 15 secs is quite coarse indeed. Even 20secs is quite coarse for a 23g dose. Sounds like a bit of a mystery, however it may just be the burrs. If I was you I would get some nice new burrs put in and see if that fixes it, this is going to be cheaper than buying a new machine. If that doesn't work than maybe a new machine is needed. Keep in mind though that these grinders are very durable and when used domestically should last a very very long time.

    Mike
    Not a bad idea. Generally how visible is wear on burrs? I've pulled the burrs out and they don't appear damaged. At least, not beyond what I would consider normal for their age. Ballpark, what's a new set of flat burrs worth?

    Quote Originally Posted by chippy View Post
    Hi David, I am not far off being a newbie, so my comments may be wide of the mark. But, is not 23gms into a 18gm VST 4gm too much. 17-19gms is the norm I think? As such you are grinding too fine and choking the grinder. Is the 60 ml yield the result of severe channeling. Have you always -used this basket- this dose (23gms). How is the headspace try the 5cent test, how heavy do you tamp to get 23gms into to 18gm basket. I would try a 19gm dose and work from there. I also would not listen to my advice on technical questions like this. good luck hope you fix it soon. John
    I've heard this a lot chippy. 23g in a 18g VST does sound like a lot. I do have quite a firm tamp, probably as a result of trying to slow my extractions down... I've done the 5c test and everything else. The espresso course I mentioned earlier - I may as well name it - was at Di Bella Coffee Bowen Hills, they have a free "get to know your machine" course where basically I had one-on-one with their barista. I knew it would be noobie level, but in a way I really wanted to go back to basics and determine if there was a fundamental flaw in my knowledge... I think it was probably the Di Bella beans that agreed with the grinder, as it behaved very well for the barista. Much to my disgust... We agreed on a 23g dose there as well. Remember I use a convex tamper (for better or worse), so the 5c test isn't 100% applicable, but is still a very good guide. I'm familiar enough with my set up to remember where a good dose sits on the basket relative to my tamper height if that makes sense? Again - if I find out that I have a fundamental problem in my technique - I will try and address it. I'll perform the 5c test again and post for interests sake.

    Quote Originally Posted by u2jewel View Post
    Yes, every info helps you to help us to help you
    In most grinders, especially if you are in the fine grind end of the grinder setting, you need to keep the machine running, with beans in the hopper and continuously grinding beans while dialing the setting to finer. Wasteful, but this is ideal to avoid bean jam in between burrs (not the fine coffee powder blockage). Sometimes you can get away with dialing finer if your grind chamber is empty, with no beans being fed. The worst is grinding chamber full of beans, and while stationary, you shift the dial to finer. Going coarser has no such effect. You can do it with grinder off and with or without beans inside.
    (please take no offense, none intended; mentioned it just in case someone else might have same symptoms. Judging on the limited set of info to go on, It's a classic Noobie encounter, but.. Since you are familiar with your setup for years, this is unlikely)
    No offence taken. Like I said in this post, maybe what I need to do is go back to basics and relearn everything...

  15. #15
    Site Sponsor SpiceBean's Avatar
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    A set of new burrs is around the $100 mark give or take. You can request a quote from the sponsors to see if any hot deals pop up.

    As far as what blunt burrs look like, it is sort of like asking what a blunt knife looks like, in other words its quite hard to tell by looking. But you should be able to feel if the tips of the burrs are nice and sharp or more rounded. If rounded and quite smooth than they are blunt. Maybe you can pop into an espresso machine service place near you to see/feel what sharp burrs look like than decipher if you need new ones.

    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpiceBean View Post
    As far as what blunt burrs look like, it is sort of like asking what a blunt knife looks like, in other words its quite hard to tell by looking.
    Brand new burrs don't actually 'look' sharp, as they don't have a shiny edge like a sharpened knife blade. The reason they aren't shiny is that the sharp edge is an edge, not a surface, so won't reflect light - if you do see shiny edges to the teeth you are actually looking at the surface left after the 'point' of each tooth is worn down to a flat surface.

    Easiest way to check burrs is by rubbing the top of your fingernail across the teeth - shagged burrs won't leave a mark, OK but a bit worn will leave scratches, brand new will shave bits off your nail.
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  17. #17
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    I've uploaded photos of a 22g dose in the 18g VST with my standard tamp pressure. You can see the amount of the tamper base protruding which I often use as a measure. In the second photo you can see the height of the dose in the basket. I will redo the 5c test at some point and get a photo of the results as well.

    Edit: Oh! I should mention, this shot was actually really good! Not perfect, but the best I've had in a whole. It is a new roast, so, we shall see how it goes!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #18
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    I'm not one to speak in absolutes, but that can't not be too high!
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    Agreed! It also looks quite coarse.
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Just add a reference point, this is my standard 20g dose in my 18g VST:
    Attachment 17379
    Out of interest does the Pullman tamper have a 10mm high piston?
    what machine are you using? Do you know the shower screen depth of the machine?

  21. #21
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    Just as a reference point, this is my standard 20g dose in my 18g VST:

    20171021_195340 - Copy.jpg

    20171021_195351 - Copy.jpg

    And this is a 22g dose in my 18g VST basket, same grind setting (which at 22g would probably not quite choke the shot completely, but there would be maybe 10-12 drops in 30s, completely burnt shot):

    20171021_195538 - Copy.jpg

    20171021_195635 - Copy.jpg

    Yes 10mm vertical sides on the Pullman Barista tamper. Machine is a Breville BES920. Don't know the shower screen depth off the top of my head, but I think I remember reading it's relatively high compared to more traditional machines like E61s.
    Last edited by level3ninja; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:11 AM. Reason: Pics fix
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  22. #22
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Okay. So I've attached photos of

    • 20g dose
    • 5c test (before)
    • 5c test after)
    • Resulting puck


    And I have uploaded videos of:
    The shot

    Then I went straight back to the grinder, without touching anything and pressed the grind lever:
    Link

    The first video is still uploading, so might not be live yet.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Looks overdosed and too coarse. The overdose may be causing the puck to fracture (though not obvious from 4th pic)

    What is the pressure gauge on the left of your machine measuring? Where does that sit when idling?

    Might be a capacitor problem on the grinder. I take it that the burrs have been removed and refitted (from the location of the silver knob on the adjustment collar you'd be miles away from the espresso zone on my k3....but I appreciate that not all are set up the same). Are you sure they are 'flush'?
    Last edited by Barry O'Speedwagon; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:06 AM.

  24. #24
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    Looks overdosed and too coarse. The overdose may be causing the puck to fracture (though not obvious from 4th pic)
    I cannot go finer, this is my problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    What is the pressure gauge on the left of your machine measuring? Where does that sit when idling?
    I'll get back to you on this.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    Might be a capacitor problem on the grinder. I take it that the burrs have been removed and refitted (from the location of the silver knob on the adjustment collar you'd be miles away from the espresso zone on my k3
    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    ....but I appreciate that not all are set up the same). Are you sure they are 'flush'?
    Pretty sure...

  25. #25
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David8 View Post
    Okay. So I've attached photos of

    • 20g dose
    • 5c test (before)
    • 5c test after)
    • Resulting puck


    And I have uploaded videos of:
    The shot

    Then I went straight back to the grinder, without touching anything and pressed the grind lever:
    Link

    The first video is still uploading, so might not be live yet.
    It's obvious from the difference between the first and second picture that the puck is pressing into the shower screen, I can see the pattern of it around the 5c coin.

    This cannot be properly fixed without grinding finer and dosing lower. Reminds me of my first Breville Smart Grinder that was too coarse out of the box. There were things I could do to improve the shot, but nothing really fixed it until I shimmed the grinder. I was amazed how much less coffee I need to pack into the basket. As offers have said it might be the capacitor on the grinder motor. If you're handy with a soldering iron this will be the cheapest, quickest, and easiest fix. Even if it turns out not to be an issue it'll only have cost you a couple of dollars.

    I don't have any magic answers as to what needs to be done to your grinder, but from your photos and the extremely fast running shot in your video something is quite amiss.

  26. #26
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Machine sits at 0bar while idling.

    In that shot the pressure very slowly climbed. Reached about 4bar, then I took the cup away. I left the shot running into the drip tray until the shot ran basically clear and the pressure continued to climb slowly until 8bar.

    This sounds very low?

  27. #27
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    It's obvious from the difference between the first and second picture that the puck is pressing into the shower screen, I can see the pattern of it around the 5c coin.

    This cannot be properly fixed without grinding finer and dosing lower. Reminds me of my first Breville Smart Grinder that was too coarse out of the box. There were things I could do to improve the shot, but nothing really fixed it until I shimmed the grinder. I was amazed how much less coffee I need to pack into the basket. As offers have said it might be the capacitor on the grinder motor. If you're handy with a soldering iron this will be the cheapest, quickest, and easiest fix. Even if it turns out not to be an issue it'll only have cost you a couple of dollars.

    I don't have any magic answers as to what needs to be done to your grinder, but from your photos and the extremely fast running shot in your video something is quite amiss.
    In the second video, can the faint whirring be heard? Would a capacitor issue cause this??

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    I'm going to go out on a limb and say your beans are underroasted.

    The grinder is struggling because the beans are so tough. The pour is (way too) fast despite significant overdosing because:
    a) you can't grind fine enough
    b) there isn't enough soluble material / CO2 in the beans (both of which are produced during roasting) to slow the flowrate down.

  29. #29
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    It would certainly be worth eliminating the beans as the source of the problem (particularly given info provided in post #14 re the grinder working with Di Bella beans). Having said that, it would take a pretty severe under-roast to stop my old K3 from grinding.

  30. #30
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    Have been following this thread, and definitely what the guys said about the beans needs to be taken into account, but another thing occurred to me that I mentioned in another thread, have you unscrewed the grind adjustment 'stopper'?

    That little silver cap if you pop that open/off, there's a screw in there which leads down and blocks up against something, this actually prevents you from going finer (it's a safety mechanism really so people didn't go too fine and destroyed the burrs), but it's necessary to actually unscrew that in order to go finer, has this been done?

    I had to do this for my K3 Touch in order to adjust finer. Your grind does just seem a bit coarse, and if you're unable to go finer this may be it... otherwise it's another issue

    Edit: but yeah, I'm not sure about different machines and pressure buildup, but that also does seem a little slow to get up to 8 bar.. it may be a combination of issues, but the guys here are awesome so hopefully we can nut this out!

  31. #31
    Senior Member David8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJack View Post
    I'm going to go out on a limb and say your beans are underroasted.

    The grinder is struggling because the beans are so tough. The pour is (way too) fast despite significant overdosing because:
    a) you can't grind fine enough
    b) there isn't enough soluble material / CO2 in the beans (both of which are produced during roasting) to slow the flowrate down.
    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    It would certainly be worth eliminating the beans as the source of the problem (particularly given info provided in post #14 re the grinder working with Di Bella beans). Having said that, it would take a pretty severe under-roast to stop my old K3 from grinding.
    Beans are roasted to the verge of second crack, City+ to Full City. It has been a while since I roasted into second crack, but I believe this gave me problems as well. I will source some local beans and try again to eliminate this.

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Have been following this thread, and definitely what the guys said about the beans needs to be taken into account, but another thing occurred to me that I mentioned in another thread, have you unscrewed the grind adjustment 'stopper'?

    That little silver cap if you pop that open/off, there's a screw in there which leads down and blocks up against something, this actually prevents you from going finer (it's a safety mechanism really so people didn't go too fine and destroyed the burrs), but it's necessary to actually unscrew that in order to go finer, has this been done?

    I had to do this for my K3 Touch in order to adjust finer. Your grind does just seem a bit coarse, and if you're unable to go finer this may be it... otherwise it's another issue

    Edit: but yeah, I'm not sure about different machines and pressure buildup, but that also does seem a little slow to get up to 8 bar.. it may be a combination of issues, but the guys here are awesome so hopefully we can nut this out!
    I haven't removed the screw. It's not a physical stopper that's preventing me going finer, just the the grinder doesn't want to grind when I do get that fine...

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    Behmor Brazen - $249 - Free Freight
    Others have mentioned that it might be the capacitor; electrical side of things I don't understand that much, so I won't go there. I thought it was like a light bulb, where it's either working or not working. My own studying on the topic is much needed.
    You mentioned earlier that it's not the pin stopping you from dialing in finer. So I would like to double check, because although I mentioned it in earlier post, it is yet to be eliminated as a cause.
    It is grinding fine up to a certain grind setting point, and anything finer beyond that point would stop the grinder. Anything that stops coffee grinds flowing out of the grinder add intended can be described as 'not working'.
    Are you able to distinguish the difference between burrs jamming and grinder choking?
    Choking is when there is too much fine powder inside, and for whatever reason (usually clumping) blockage stops the grind exiting. Grinder inside fills up, nothing coming out. If constipation continues, eventually grinder stops.
    Jamming is when burrs are locked in place because there is a hard bean(s) wedged in between the burrs, and the motor cannot produce enough torque to break it and continue to rotate. This stops the whole machine. Some grinders, you can hear faint humming, others dead silent. Obviously, no sound because no movement, and no movement means no grinds coming out.
    This jamming sometimes happens when you rotate the dial towards finer too quickly, and not incrementally enough. It also easily happens with the slightest of grinding adjustments (movement towards finer) made while the grinder is stationary.
    You'll need at least 100g of beans for this.
    So let the machine continually grind beans when you move the adjusting ring to finer (gradually). Before reaching your desired fineness, if it stops, check the following. A) do you hear the motor running? When it stopped, did it make any other sound? If you hear any sound, please describe. B) did the flow of the grind exiting stop at the same time or before the grinder came to a halt? C) from the moment it stopped working, and here please define 'stopped' as in grind not exiting or motor stopped. Here, mark the dial where it was, then move the dial back to coarser by quite a bit. Does that resume, or is it still stopped? D) if step C was a yes, movement resumed, do grinds flow out immediately from that point?
    You see, that your grinder was working fine, dialed in at the shop; coupled with the fact that your beans are no where near under roasted, I cannot exclude operator error quite yet.
    Depending on the detailed feedback of when and how it fails, we can guesstimate which components maybe at fault.
    zeezaw likes this.

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