Does anyone have any opinions on using rice to clean the grinder?
I personally have used grindz once a month and next month plan to take it apart if I get a chance and give it a proper clean.
It will quite possibly be quite a difficult operation as Chris has mentioned (I have the micometric version).
Also noted that on particularly hot/humid days clumping is more prevalent. I use a skewer to break up the clumps in the basket before tamping.
Does anyone have any opinions on using rice to clean the grinder?
No dont do itOriginally Posted by 362B2F333E282F3A295B0 link=1213487719/51#51 date=1267142767
It is not recommended or suitable for use
Unless of course, you use a rice cooker for brewing coffee. ;DOriginally Posted by 73575E5E5D5D6773574B5557380 link=1213487719/52#52 date=1267143206
I used Rice to clean my Lux grinder in the early days and from memory it worked very well. I prefer to clean the chamber and burrs properly now to ensure that all stales are gone and that everything looks ship-shape!
I always worry about people mentioning the use of rice for cleaning the grinder.
I recall a post some time ago where the person had used cooked rice and wondered how to get this glutinous mess out of the grinder.
So, just for the sake of clarity:
Rice is NOT recommended for cleaning grinders, but if you feel you must do it, please make sure it IS NOT COOKED RICE.
Thanks for that! *I really did laugh out loud when I read your post, and hadnt considered that someone would actually use cooked rice *:o! *We.... nope still laughing at the thougt.... we really do need to carefully think about what and how we write things here. *Rice porridge is one thing, 230v is another eh! *Thanks again Brett, Brett.Originally Posted by 7E796C7A77614729212121180 link=1213487719/55#55 date=1267144992
It wouldnt be the first time!Originally Posted by 7B7C697F7264422C2424241D0 link=1213487719/55#55 date=1267144992
American aircraft engineers lamented to their British counterparts that they werent sure how to test their aircraft windshields for bird strike resistance. The British replied Its simple. Get yourself an air cannon and a chook from the supermarket. Fire it at the aircraft and hey presto. The Americans did this and were shocked to find the chicken didnt just smash through the windshield but the cockpit door as well and finally came to rest in the passenger cabin. Now questioning their own engineering prowess they reluctantly called the British for help. The reply was:
"You did defrost it first of course....didnt you???"
I was cleaning out my M4D with some compressed air yesterday after running some Grindz through it and noticed some grounds coming out of the base. Took the baseplate off and there was quite a build up of grounds in there. Is this normal or do I have a leak somewhere?
:o :o I am not surprised Chaddy...Originally Posted by 434841444459200 link=1213487719/58#58 date=1278143596
Grinders and compressed air are incompatible. YOu get coffee around bearings etc and you get premature death...
Might I suggest you buy a small vaccum cleaner :-?
Ive found a few grinds coming through the holes in the base at cleaning time.
Ive never used compressed air and not opened it up to figure out why.
I took my M4D apart tonight...it was pretty straightforward- its a micrometric one. *Once you take of the three screws in the black cogged ring all you do is unscrew the top burrs.
I marked them and they came off pretty easily...once I realised I had to turn them anti-clockwise. ::)
So now I know where true zero is - about a quarter turn of the burrs (not the screw) from where I usually have the grinder set.
I stuck my vacuum cleaner down the top and sucked most of the loose coffee out. *I didnt look under the base for grounds coming out there. *I did notice a bit of coffee in the thread of the top burrs. *There was also a little collection of solid grinds arond the bottom where the sweeper thingo knocks the grinds down the chute.
It was a pretty straightforward process.
Im thinking to uprade on Macap M4D (micrometric option) or even maybe on M7D (MXD).
How does grind on coarser levels for french?
Basically, grinders with micrometric grind adjustment are specialised espresso grinders. If you want a grinder suitable for a range of brewing methods, youd be better off with a stepped version of the M4D if your hearts set on a Digital Doserless Grinder.... ;)Originally Posted by 70794A7674677B7C7670677A150 link=1213487719/62#62 date=1301559508
I have had my M4D for about 4 months now.* Getting some really good results, even with my crappy Sunbean (which is on its very last leggs and about to be relegated to doorstopper) so I am very happy with the purchase.* I have been spending considerable time improving dosing and levelling technique in preparation for a new machine, which is not very far away...and I definately would not be getting such good results without this grinder.
I do have one question regarding my grinder.* I have dissasembled and cleaned this device 2x so far, and during this process I also cleaned out the grooves of the thread using a toothbrush and a clean rag (on both the upper and lower bursets), since there were traces of grind in there.* Once I assembled the grinder again, I noticed some "slack" in the worm gear / black collar connection.* The top bur set now has some play which I "think" was not there before.* Every screw has been checked.* From my observation this play is between the worm gear and black collar...and it amounts to perhaps 1/4 of a graduation on the black collar ring (estimation only)
My questions would be...
1) Is this normal??* How much slack do other people have in their adjustment collars wtihn the worm gear at the rear?
2)* Has anyone solved this issue??* I recall reading somewhere that the thread could be / may be lubricated with some food based oils (very small amount), and this might stiffen the thread a little more.
Anyway, if this is normal then please let me know...
If not then feel free to throw abuse and tell me to stop being so pedantic.
Hi Julian, I do have some movement in the threads of the burr assy. The worm drive adjuster seems to take that up. I do however put a layer of teflon tape around the outside of the upper burr carrier upon reassembly. I wouldnt suggest a grease type lube as coffee grinds seem to be directly attracted to the stuff.
Gday Julian.... :)
I agree with Mono re: the wet lube agent. Far better to use a dry lube such as powdered graphite, or a dry Teflon lube of some description - Cycle shops usually have a good selection of this type of stuff for bike-chains, etc...
Usually with worm-gear drives of this sort, you can adjust the worm gears clearance from the ring gear (collar) and thereby take up any slack that exists. I have never had access to a Macap MDx grinder before so am unsure how this might be achieved with this particular unit. Might be worth a look though... :)
All the best mate,
Originally Posted by 5D70747875190 link=1213487719/66#66 date=1306228998
Yes Mal, the worm drive assembly base has slotted mounting holes so that any slack can be taken up as you suggest.
Hey, great tips!!
I never tried to remove the complete worm gear assembly before - I have always removed the two screws under the worm drive and "folded" it back.* So, assuming the allen key bolts are slotted, then it should be quite simple to loosen the bolts, push the worm closer to the collar, and tighten again. This sounds, in theory, the best solution..thanks for that.
As a note, last night I removed the black toothed ring that filts to the top collar, and rotated it 1/3 of a rotation and then reassembled (there are only three screws so only 3 possibilities of assembly.* The theory was that perhaps the plastic teeth had deformed a little around the worm gear. This was not the case and I saw no change to the worm drive clearances to the collar.*
I think there is definately room for design improvement in the area of the worm drive and plastic ring assembly.* After cleaning out my grinder last night, I ran the unit with no beans - the slight vibration of the motor was enough to move the worm drive and turn the collar :o* This would probably not happen with grinds in the burrs, and adjustment of the worm gear as described above, but I was a little supprised to say the least* --* ie has the collar been rotating all this time and moving my grind setting??
I will make a few adjustments tonight and see if I can tighten up the gear interaction and minimise the collar rotation.
Its always a pleasure to help when able .......... :)
just gently lever off the worm drive plastic adjuster knobs with a thin bladed flat screw driver or bread & butter knife. Once they are out of the way you will have access to the allen headed retaining bolts.
Done it...fixed it...works like new..tension is back in the worm drive and there is minimal slack in the gar assembly.
Nice job, thanks for the tips..
Had my new/second-hand M4d dropped of by Dickwyn this morning (grinder was in pristine condition thanks Dick)
Ran half a kilo of beans through it this afternoon to get it dialled in. For the single basket for the Giotto my time seems to work best at around 6.7 seconds. From reading earlier posts, most have it set around 5.7. If I reduce the time I dont get enough grinds into the basket. is there anyone that has had simalr findings to me or are my adjustments up the creek
We use an M4D at home with double baskets and I prefer to set the double dose on the M4D at about 4.5 sec and the single dose at 0.5 sec.
We do this because the timer wont give you an exact weighted dose for every coffee. So we use the double to get it roughly right, then the single dose setting when wed like to updose a little at a time.
Hope that makes sense and is helpful.
Definitely makes sense
Have noticed some inconsistencies in the grind amounts
I never use the timer--I single dose by weight and grind until empty.
Me too. I just have it set to continuous dose.Originally Posted by 1D283F3D0D3528373B363E5A0 link=1213487719/74#74 date=1320470787
I dont have one of these grinders, but its on my radar as a future upgrade when the bug hits. I have a question on these grinders:
If you do the grinding as above, ie weight and grind, how much "old" grinds remain in the burrs/chute etc? Do you need to run a bit through to replace the old grinds first, or is the amount left negligible?
I have one of these grinders, the micro metric version. For the first time in a very long time I have need to change the coarseness of the grind. I have read often enough here [and in the instruction book] about the effect of clockwise/anticlockwise turning of the screw. But I am still confused about the direction the collar [?] turn to grind finer/coarser.
Could someone just tell me if the coarser grind is a higher number on the collar or lower. Just to be crystal clear, if I turn the little screw knob on the side so that the collar moves to a higher number, relative to the centre of the control disc, is that making a coarser grind?
Hi Tojo. Higher numbers=coarse lower numbers=fine. Turn your adjuster towards the back to make it finer or towards you to make it coarser.
Whenever I have to adjust I mutter the following mantra religiously.. "clockwise coarser clockwise coarser" :)
Clockwise being the direction of the collar itself, not the little screw you use
and look for this
When dosing fill half, level, fill remaining then level and tamp
Important do not try and force the tamper deeper into the basket to make it fit in the grouphead as you change a variable and this will effect the speed of the pour/the required grind.
Check out some of my other vidoes, they might be some help?
When should I replace my Burrs?
My grinder is about 4 years old and grinds about 20 - 24kg a year I guess. I take it apart completely every 4 months or so and clean burrs /grinder/chute etc.
I find it hard to look at a photo on the net and decide if my burrs are worn compared to the photo.
Should I just grunt up and buy new burrs or is there a better way of telling they are worn and need replacing?
If so which sponsor has them?
Thanks for any help
So your grinder has done about 100 kgs. As far as replacing the the burr sets............... maybe, and I say maybe, never.
Macaps should be good for plenty more than what you're giving it.
You may well get upgraditis or changeoveritis and buy a new grinder before you wear them out.
If you grind rocks or glass and bits of steel well, that's a different story but if your coffee is clean and destoned then you've got no worries.
There are plenty of myths about coffee gear on the net which can make some home users a bit paranoid and uncertain.
Don't worry, be happy.
Is that the general consensus that the burrs will be fine?
The easiest way to test is to run your fingertip over the shiny fine grinding section at the outermost edge of the burr. If there is plenty of resistance and your finger cant glide smoothly around then they are not blunt. But as Chokkidog says you should be getting over 100 kgs out of a burr set providing no damage from stones etc. You will also be able to tell from how the grinder is working. Slowing down, extra heat in the ground coffee and constant need for adjustments are all good indicators.
Last edited by coffee_machinist; 13th December 2012 at 09:10 AM.
Indicators or worn burrs are:
- having to set the grinder continually finer to what you normally use.
- slower than usual to grind a shot's worth of beans
- erratic performance
- greater heat build up
These are indicators and have to be noticed over a period of time. Slower operation and having to dial finer prompted me to change the burrs in my Mazzer Mini.
Some also advocate the fingernail test. A sharp burr should be able to shave off part your fingernail. I've never tried this and not sure how reliable it is.
Thanks so much all of you
I think mine are fine looking at your criteria for changing them
Next time I take the grinder apart I will try the fingernail test also
Have a great and safe Xmas
Glad you've been reassured! I reread the post and thought I should just qualify what I meant by never.
Your current usage over 4 years means that the grinder would be 16 years old before the burrs need replacing, (at 400kgs).
Hence the suggestion that upgraditis or sidewaysitis, may strike before the burrs wear out.
My grind is now very erratic and the burrs are now worn and require replacement
Where is the best/cheapest place ( site sponsor) to by replacement burrs for a MD$ please?
I am new to the forum but have just purchased a MACAP M4D. I was very impressed with the packaging of the machine, so I took some pictures to post on here. I can't wait to try out the grinder with my new Londinium I Luxe when it arrives!
hmmm... well that didn't work... how do I get the pictures to show up?
Are your photos 'hosted' on a photo website..it looks as though you've linked to you harddrive?
I created an account on photobucket and upload my photos to my account - which is really easy by 'dragging and dropping'. Once uploaded you can copy the 'IMG code' by left clicking on it (which copies the address) then I simply paste this into my post.
There are many sites that will host photos for you, photobucket is the one that I use.
Thanks for your advise Javaphile.
I will post a couple more things so I can directly link the photos rather than using a hosting site.
Any idea where I can buy replacement burrs from?
I just thought I'd have another go at posting those pictures...
I put the coffee cup beside the box to try and get a scale for the size of things but it doesn't really do it justice. The box is 59cm high x 37cm wide x 26cm deep.
hmm, I've got another 4 photos I wanted to post but it keeps failing on their upload. I'll try to put them in the next post and see if that works...
I recently upgraded from a "Smart Grinder" to a Macap4 and was exciting about the change. However, the issue of clumping seems to be very significant in compare to the smart grinder. I have taken a picture to show the grind results. Have anyone experienced the same issue? Any suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
That looks pretty much like Turkish grind ot me. No wonder you have clumping.
Use it manually, dose correctly and then set your particle size. Once done, then you can play with time.
You are grinding waaaay too fine and this will lead to an underdose and associated risk of channelling.
Last edited by TC; 26th February 2013 at 07:57 PM.