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Thread: Struggling with new Macap M2M, making rookie errors.

  1. #1
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    Struggling with new Macap M2M, making rookie errors.

    Hi all, I picked up a brand new Macap M2M yesterday, and I feel I have made a few rookie errors. I am upgrading from an em0480 and could do with some help


    It truly is learning by fire as it seems like there is an immense learning curve. The manual was hardly anything to write home about. I have googled excessively without any help and probably made many mistakes from not being able to find anything.

    Firstly, I know you have to do this for other grinders but saw no mention for this one. Do you have to engage the grinding function when changing the collar to make the grind finer?

    Rookie mistake number 1. I was trying to change the grind, went far too fine. When trying to grind some beans, nothing came out of the chute. It eventually clogged up the grinder as it was just far too fine. Opened the burrs from the top, and the ground coffee was nearly solid. Had to use a toothpick to break it up. Used a soft bristle toothbrush to remove the rest of the coffee. I found some grinds on the threads where the top burr plugs into, so I used the toothbrush there. Used the toothbrush then on the bottom and top burrs. Looked at the thread for the top burr and saw a white liquid. I'm assuming this is food grease. As a result, some food grease would likely have transferred from the thread, onto the toothbrush, then onto the bottom burr. Is it still safe to use?

    Secondly, as I was really struggling to find the correct grind, found out about the 'zero point'. I think I found this, but it doesn't sound like a loud sound like I've heard on YouTube. It still sounds like metal on metal, just faint, and alleviates itself if I go one click coarser. Am I on the right track?

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
    Life-long Learner DesigningByCoffee's Avatar
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    Hi Neifirst
    It is a bit of trial and error, but if you've used other grinders the basic process should be similar. The grease will be food safe.
    My suggestion would be to buy a bag of sacrificial 'on special' beans to dial it in (I went through 500g in my conical just getting it 'in the ballpark'!).
    Empty the grinder as best you can. With it turned off, wind it up until the burrs touch (you should feel the resistance) then wind it back by around 1/8 of a turn on the large ring. Hopefully this will get you into the espresso zone, then make small adjustments from there as you would the em480. (this basic technique worked fro me on my Macap M4 - hopefully another M2 user can let us know if the adjustment scale is different on the M2)
    Cheers Matt

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    M2M is stepped adjustment, so its pretty easy to find the right setting.

    From memory espresso was always 3 or 4 clicks from zero (burrs chirping ) for 18 - 20g dose in double basket.
    This was using beans no more than 2 weeks old.

    Yes you should have the grinder running while making adjustments, especially if you have beans in there.

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    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Stress much?!! Dude, you're actually doing ok and it's not an uncommon experience. I've had the very same thing happen after shimming and adjusting an EM0480. Do as the others have said above, but to be precise you only really need to have the grinder running while making adjustments if there are beans in it and you are adjusting towards a finer setting. It doesn't do any harm to do it all the time, but it's not really necessary.
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    Is there a CS member in Brisbane who will be able to help me out for a 6 pack of beer or a bottle of wine or something? I am truly struggling :/

    I found that the chirping point and the resistance point (where the bottom burr begins to spin) were the same point. So I went about 4 clicks from there coarser. Once again I clogged up the chamber, burrs, exit chute etc with very fine grounds. Took an hour to clean.

    I then decided to go starting from about 8 clicks from the zero point. Too coarse. I am finding I cannot adjust the grind whilst grinding as I don't have enough hands. One hand is pushing the trigger at the portafilter holder, the other is trying to hold the lever for the steps down and turn the grind adjuster. The too burr and hopper just spin and unwind and go way coarser than before as I can't hold it properly. Any tips other than find a person to help?

    The only other thing I have been able to do is adjust the grind without the grinder grinding. This has been very hit and miss. It'll be too fine, so I'll adjust it one click and it'll be too coarse.

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    I'm in West End, I drink panhead

    If you can't adjust it while grinding, adjust it with no beans in the Hopper. Then add just enough beans for your shot plus a bit extra to purge the last grind. That way you don't have to worry about crushing beans while making it finer with the motor off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyeba View Post
    I'm in West End, I drink panhead

    If you can't adjust it while grinding, adjust it with no beans in the Hopper. Then add just enough beans for your shot plus a bit extra to purge the last grind. That way you don't have to worry about crushing beans while making it finer with the motor off.
    That's what I've ended up doing somewhat, and I think I have found as close to a sweet spot as I will get. May not need help in person just yet. Basically I emptied beans and then activated the grinder to remove all grounds. Found zero point, and went up by 5 points. It was also too fine but only just (fair bit of popcorning in the portafilter). Removed all beans and activated grinder. Then adjusted grind by 2 steps, added beans again, and it was too coarse. So I removed all beans, activated grinder to remove remaining grounds, and went to the middle spot with the adjustment. It is also coarse but only just.

    So it seems that I have an issue where other than being unable to adjust grind with beans in the grinder, that I can't seem to fine tune the steps properly. Too coarse at the moment but one adjustment left or right makes it undesirable. Is this normal for stepped grinders?

  8. #8
    Senior Member readeral's Avatar
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    Can you updose a little and tamp firmly to make up for the slightly too coarse grind? I'm assuming that all your other variables are set and accurate. I've got an old EM0480 which is stepped, but I can get it to stop between steps (albeit less than accurately) so can't help with managing steps without this ability. I don't know, but maybe you'll find if grinds a little more forgivingly once the burrs are coated?

  9. #9
    Senior Member readeral's Avatar
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    And yes my EM0480 would fluctuate from too coarse to too fine if going full steps - but that's usually dependent on bean freshness too. I think the M2M is much better, and I got the impression it had much smaller steps...

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    Life-long Learner DesigningByCoffee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neifirst View Post
    So it seems that I have an issue where other than being unable to adjust grind with beans in the grinder, that I can't seem to fine tune the steps properly. Too coarse at the moment but one adjustment left or right makes it undesirable. Is this normal for stepped grinders?
    Micrometric grinder can help in giving smaller steps, but you should be able to deal with this by good technique as well.
    FWIW I would try to work with the finer setting, then reduce your dose slightly and tamp lightly. I've always found with all my grinders that going that way seems to give better results than coarser with a harder tamp - easier on the wrist too!

    Cheers Matt

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    FWIW, I would let the new grinder wear in a bit. Took my new grinder a couple of months to 'wear in' or 'run in' as we did with cars long ago. There can be some uneven milling edges to wear off. Then it should be okay. Say a couple of kilos of beans on medium grind not choking it. Do it in stages to let the grinder motor cool down.

  12. #12
    TC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neifirst View Post
    ...I can't seem to fine tune the steps properly. Too coarse at the moment but one adjustment left or right makes it undesirable. Is this normal for stepped grinders?
    G'day Neifirst,

    I'd bet that there will be inconsistency in your dose contributing to your frustration.

    There may be value in getting out some scales to lock yourself into a consistent dose. Much easier to solve this problem if there's only one variable

    Good luck...

    Chris
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  13. #13
    Member saroadie's Avatar
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    G'day neifirst,
    You've received some great replies. I reckon your answer is in the last 5. Good luck and stick with it. Lock down each variable so grind fineness is all you're playing with.

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    Question Follow up :)

    Hi everyone,

    I'd like to follow up on this thread with a new question concerning the Macap m2m, if that's ok (@administrators or do I need to post a new question?).

    I've been having some issues with adjusting the grind size from the coarsest setting to the finest. When I'm grinding beans at the finest setting everything works just fine, same goes for grinding beans on the coarsest setting. However, whenever I want to dial back from the coarsest setting (for e.g. a wonderful cup of Hario V60 brew ) to my espresso setting I feel a lot of resistance halfway through, and it seems that the burrs are touching each other. I'm always adjusting the grind size while grinding (without beans in the hopper). I'm afraid I'm damaging the burrs when doing this...

    Does anyone have the same problem? If so, (how) did you fix it? I know a few people with the macap M4 who are having the same problem, so if any Macap M4 users are around who would like to share their thoughts on this one: please !

    Cheers,
    Oliver

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    You will know if the burrs are touching each other if the grinder is running - you will hear the sound of them grinding against each other.
    Usually just before they fully mash together you will hear a "chirping" sound as the burrs just start to touch.

    Have you worked out your true zero point? On mine, I wound the collar all the way until the burrs were physical touching (grinder off, of course!) and worked out that they start to touch at around the 1.5 mark.

  16. #16
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    Yes, same strategy to find the zero point (also around the 1.5 mark).

    The sound the grinder makes going from coarse to fine is different, but the resistance I feel when turning worries me.

    Anyway, thanks for your reply!

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