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Thread: Stepped adjustments too large on my grinder but not on others..

  1. #1
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Stepped adjustments too large on my grinder but not on others..

    Hey guys, thought I'd post a thread about this and ask for your much much appreciated knowledge and advice.

    Having spent a month and a half with my grinder, it just really seems that the stepped adjustments are too large. I've even gone to the extent of doing a few shots on a setting, removing the top burr and doing a full cleanout of it, toothbrush, brush, vacuum etc, purging, then pulling few shots on a new grind setting, yet it's very very clearly showing me that the steps result in such a dramatically different yield (20+ second difference for one notch change...)

    I've actually gone around and asked many people who have the exact same grinder how they found the steps, and all except one person have said that the steps are really small and haven't been an issue for them.

    Can I ask for some collective wisdom as to why this might be? That the same grinder can vary so much? I did get it secondhand, but it had only done about 12 kg or so and looked in great condition apart from some dents on the inside (which I have attached here just in case this might be part of the issue). The burrs look fine although I have no idea what they really should look like, but photos below. Do the burrs look okay?

    What would you guys say is the best course of action here? Get new burrs just to see if that's it, deal with it and live with it, or side/upgrade to another grinder?

    It's a Quamar Q50P, otherwise a really great, solid grinder that's awesome in every other way.

    Thanks so much for any thoughts guys

    Photos are of before cleaning, after cleaning (actually scrubbed it more after those photos), and photos of the dents

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    Those 'dents' don't actually look like dents to me - they look more like air pockets in the casting that were exposed when the casting was machined. They shouldn't have any effect on the operation of the grinder.
    As far as the burrs go, they look OK, not overly worn or damaged, although visual inspection of burrs is not a very reliable way of checking them. If you run the top of your fingernail against the teeth you will get a better idea - very sharp, as new burrs will shave bits off your nails, OK but used ones (approaching time for replacement) will leave scratch marks on your nails, blunt ones overdue for replacement will barely be capable of leaving any mark.
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    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    I'm not really sure how the whole assembly works, but it looks like the old Teflon tape mod could work on that. Worked a treat for me on my old Anfim KS.

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    I saw someone on another thread on another forum having trouble also. It may just be the design of the grinder. You could try removing the burrs and reinstalling them to make sure that someone hasn't carelessly left material behind them.

    If that doesn't work and you think that the burrs are OK and you are quite experienced with coffee then just sell it and get another grinder. I have heard some grinders can be quite sensitive and of course different beans, baskets and techniques all affect it.

  5. #5
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Thanks so much everyone for your input!!
    Quote Originally Posted by MorganGT View Post
    Those 'dents' don't actually look like dents to me - they look more like air pockets in the casting that were exposed when the casting was machined. They shouldn't have any effect on the operation of the grinder.
    As far as the burrs go, they look OK, not overly worn or damaged, although visual inspection of burrs is not a very reliable way of checking them. If you run the top of your fingernail against the teeth you will get a better idea - very sharp, as new burrs will shave bits off your nails, OK but used ones (approaching time for replacement) will leave scratch marks on your nails, blunt ones overdue for replacement will barely be capable of leaving any mark.
    Ahh right, I shall run my nail over it hehe, cheers. But yeah I'd imagine the burrs would be fine..
    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyC View Post
    I'm not really sure how the whole assembly works, but it looks like the old Teflon tape mod could work on that. Worked a treat for me on my old Anfim KS.
    Ah cool, can you please elaborate on that Leroy? Is it similar to the Rocky teflon tape mod, wrap a layer or two of teflon tape around the threads on the upper burr? I thought the idea behind that was simply to keep it all much more still.. (or to aid in going stepless.. hmm do you think that might be an idea converting it to stepless? Although if the increments are already that large in result it may be tricky to make really fine adjustments as the steps are already fairly small movements...)
    Quote Originally Posted by wattgn View Post
    I saw someone on another thread on another forum having trouble also. It may just be the design of the grinder. You could try removing the burrs and reinstalling them to make sure that someone hasn't carelessly left material behind them.

    If that doesn't work and you think that the burrs are OK and you are quite experienced with coffee then just sell it and get another grinder. I have heard some grinders can be quite sensitive and of course different beans, baskets and techniques all affect it.
    Haha that was probably me XD.. oh but there was another fellow who had similar issues. But also many others who I asked who said they haven't had issues and felt the steps were quite small. Ah yep I reckon that'll be my plan of attack, take out the bottom burrs and check if there's like a tv remote stuck in there haha. Also might try the basket that came with the naked portafilter instead of precision one, I'm not sure if this will do anything, but perhaps it's a factor.

    The thing is I keep everything super consistent technique wise and dosing to the 0.1g, so I can't see that that would be the issue, although open to the possibility.
    As I can get really consistent extractions on the same grind setting in terms of yield and timing (to +/-1 or 2 grams), it's only when I change grind setting slightly that it goes to extremes...

    Thanks so much guys, really appreciate your thoughts on this, certainly welcome more input too

  6. #6
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Stepped adjustments too large on my grinder but not on others..

    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Ah cool, can you please elaborate on that Leroy? Is it similar to the Rocky teflon tape mod, wrap a layer or two of teflon tape around the threads on the upper burr? I thought the idea behind that was simply to keep it all much more still.. (or to aid in going stepless.. hmm do you think that might be an idea converting it to stepless? Although if the increments are already that large in result it may be tricky to make really fine adjustments as the steps are already fairly small movements...)

    Thanks so much guys, really appreciate your thoughts on this, certainly welcome more input too
    Hey mate. Yeah it's exactly the same as the mod that was first designed for the Rocky. It can be used on any grinder with stepped adjustment and a threaded burr holder. As you say you simply wrap Teflon tape around the thread of the upper burr holder. However you need more than a couple of layers, you need HEAPS of layers. When you think you've got enough go around a couple more times. I had a laugh. Basically you need enough that it makes it quite difficult to wind the burr holder back down, but not so much that it's impossible. There'll be enough tension that everything stays in place without using the lock. Most people that do this mod to their Rocky actually remove the locking pin, but I left mine in place on my KS as it didn't cause any issues and I still used it when it lined up. But yeah, it was a great mod that was very cheap, simple and effective. It gave me a stepless grinder at no extra cost really. It probably took me 3 attempts to work out that I needed HEAPS of Teflon tape, but once I got it right it was rock solid and would've lasted ages.
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    Stepped adjustments too large on my grinder but not on others..

    I've got essentially the same grinder, Q50E, and I also find the steps to big, especially when using a VST basket. I also find I can't grind fine and consistent enough to dose correctly with the VST. I run the grinder 1 step up from the burrs touching and get inconsistent results with the VST but consistent with the stock basket, all else remaining the same. I'm seriously considering upgrading to an Atom or similar but I like the sound of the thread tape mod, worth trying for sure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyC View Post
    Hey mate. Yeah it's exactly the same as the mod that was first designed for the Rocky. It can be used on any grinder with stepped adjustment and a threaded burr holder. As you say you simply wrap Teflon tape around the thread of the upper burr holder. However you need more than a couple of layers, you need HEAPS of layers. When you think you've got enough go around a couple more times. I had a laugh. Basically you need enough that it makes it quite difficult to wind the burr holder back down, but not so much that it's impossible. There'll be enough tension that everything stays in place without using the lock. Most people that do this mod to their Rocky actually remove the locking pin, but I left mine in place on my KS as it didn't cause any issues and I still used it when it lined up. But yeah, it was a great mod that was very cheap, simple and effective. It gave me a stepless grinder at no extra cost really. It probably took me 3 attempts to work out that I needed HEAPS of Teflon tape, but once I got it right it was rock solid and would've lasted ages.
    Be interested to hear what b has to say

  9. #9
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Listen4Life View Post
    Be interested to hear what b has to say
    You'll have to give him a call to find out as he's no longer on this forum.
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    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    G'day "simonsk8r"...

    From your photos of the upper burr ass'y, the apparent step difference appears to be quite small and unless the ass'y is shifting while you grind coffee, it's difficult to see how the step difference could be to blame.

    You could try removing the burrs and reinstalling them to make sure that someone hasn't carelessly left material behind them.
    This would definitely be worth doing... and this

    visual inspection of burrs is not a very reliable way of checking them. If you run the top of your fingernail against the teeth you will get a better idea - very sharp, as new burrs will shave bits off your nails, OK but used ones (approaching time for replacement) will leave scratch marks on your nails, blunt ones overdue for replacement will barely be capable of leaving any mark.
    You could also verify that there is no lateral or axial play in the rotating burr ass'y by trying to move the ass'y sideways and up and down. This should feel rock solid if all is Ok.

    All the best mate,
    Mal.

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    Senior Member Magic_Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyC View Post
    You'll have to give him a call to find out as he's no longer on this forum.
    I'm sure Paul hasn't cancelled his internet connection. Plenty of avenues to get in touch other than by telephone.
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  12. #12
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeroyC View Post
    Hey mate. Yeah it's exactly the same as the mod that was first designed for the Rocky. It can be used on any grinder with stepped adjustment and a threaded burr holder. As you say you simply wrap Teflon tape around the thread of the upper burr holder. However you need more than a couple of layers, you need HEAPS of layers. When you think you've got enough go around a couple more times. I had a laugh. Basically you need enough that it makes it quite difficult to wind the burr holder back down, but not so much that it's impossible. There'll be enough tension that everything stays in place without using the lock. Most people that do this mod to their Rocky actually remove the locking pin, but I left mine in place on my KS as it didn't cause any issues and I still used it when it lined up. But yeah, it was a great mod that was very cheap, simple and effective. It gave me a stepless grinder at no extra cost really. It probably took me 3 attempts to work out that I needed HEAPS of Teflon tape, but once I got it right it was rock solid and would've lasted ages.
    Ah right cool, it may be worth doing, doesn't make any sense that I would have to in the first place, many people seem to have no trouble with it, but it may just be mine.

    I DID however notice that once on a grind setting, the collar can move around a little freely... is that normal? :S Whilst grinding the spring latch does seem to hold it in place, but if the collar is slightly moved and I turn on the grinder with beans in it, it'll move towards the latch or moreso snap back in place... should there be this movement?

    I think I might just post a video to show you what I mean... stay tuned!
    Quote Originally Posted by Stu76 View Post
    I've got essentially the same grinder, Q50E, and I also find the steps to big, especially when using a VST basket. I also find I can't grind fine and consistent enough to dose correctly with the VST. I run the grinder 1 step up from the burrs touching and get inconsistent results with the VST but consistent with the stock basket, all else remaining the same. I'm seriously considering upgrading to an Atom or similar but I like the sound of the thread tape mod, worth trying for sure.
    Ah wow that's really interesting... good to know I'm not the only one.. Yeah I have a Pesado/IMS 58.5mm precision basket.. I wonder if this is potentially an issue? Honestly I have no idea at all as to the mechanics of why it would be an issue... hole size/placement in the basket? Hmmmm..... I'll try switching back to the stock standard one I got with the naked...
    Quote Originally Posted by Listen4Life View Post
    Be interested to hear what b has to say
    Yeah I have asked him and he's said to me that it just takes alot of practice and time and that he's sold alot of them and has had no issues nor warranty claims, nor any people having issues with the steps. But I really honestly can't see it as a technique/workflow issue, I get very consistent results on the one grind setting..
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimal View Post
    G'day "simonsk8r"...

    From your photos of the upper burr ass'y, the apparent step difference appears to be quite small and unless the ass'y is shifting while you grind coffee, it's difficult to see how the step difference could be to blame.


    This would definitely be worth doing... and this



    You could also verify that there is no lateral or axial play in the rotating burr ass'y by trying to move the ass'y sideways and up and down. This should feel rock solid if all is Ok.

    All the best mate,
    Mal.
    Hey Mal thanks for chiming in, yeah ah okay so the threads/steps look fine to you that's good to hear. I'll definitely remove the bottom burr (although I tried already this morning and ah mah gawsh the screws are well tight haha, only managed to get one out, will put more oomph into it tomorrow).

    Yeah I took out the top burr this morning and ran my fingernails all over it and it did cut little flakes off my nail, had to brush them out of the burr haha, so seems fair sharp..

    Yes I think this may be a potential issue the fairly free movement of the collar/hopper... it doesn't seem to move around during grinding however, only the very first hit it'll snap right back... Will get a vid up soon

    Thank you thank you thank you all for your input.. Will keep posted how I go

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Yes I think this may be a potential issue the fairly free movement of the collar/hopper... it doesn't seem to move around during grinding however, only the very first hit it'll snap right back... Will get a vid up soon
    I've noticed that I can put pressure on one side of the collar with my fingers and get the burrs to touch when it's on my standard setting, one notch back from a horrible grinding noise. I certainly didn't expect that much play from a new machine. I'd be interested to know if this is specific to Quamar.

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    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magic_Matt View Post
    I'm sure Paul hasn't cancelled his internet connection. Plenty of avenues to get in touch other than by telephone.
    Of course, Coffee Snobs just isn't one of them. Plus I know he loves a chat! I had a laugh.
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    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    From all that Simon there's two things I'd check and eliminate:

    1. Miss alignment of the bottom burr - remove, clean and reassemble if you can. (Personally I think this is unlikely as you can get good results at times, but it's worth ruling it out).

    2. The bit of play in the upper burr carrier doesn't sound right. I reckon it probably would move during grinding, but maybe too fast too see with the naked eye. The Teflon tape mod or some other means of securing it firmly will eliminate this as the issue.

    Good luck.

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    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Awesome, legend mate those things I'll definitely look into.

    I'm wondering whether those 'dents' are causing potential issues, for example maybe when going finer or coarser, it's locking the threads into one of the positions in which there are those dents, hence it being a wobbly change... Just hypothesizing! But teflon tape may hold it better in the one spot.. shall see!

  17. #17
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Okay a little update...

    I took apart the grinder a little, took out the upper burr carrier, then the upper burr (inspected, looks fine, very sharp, cleaned it a little), managed to get out the bottom burr (same deal), looked around under there, all looks fine and I can't spot anything amiss.. I tried to get that central nut out but with all my might could not haha.. don't really have that many tools around, tried an adjustable wrench but it was just too tight. But anyway I reinstalled the lower burr, upper burr, and everything.

    I did however notice that the spring clip you push down to adjust the grind setting is quite loose in there, I actually think it's a matter of that the hole diameter is just too big, so it slots in there but can move around left to right a bit, which obviously affects the upper burr carrier and the stability of the setting that it's on.

    I shot some photos and did some videos too! Apologies for the repetitive nature of the videos, but just thought I'd cover all bases. You can see the springed clip and how it moves with the upper burr carrier quite easily, and also in the clip where I grind some beans how it does that 'snap back' I mentioned earlier. Not sure if this is potentially the issue... doesn't seem that it would affect the dramatic difference in steps, as even when going between steps they seem quite small in the threads in terms of how much it's adjusted.. so whether this little movement is causing too many inconsistent grinds or it's just not stable to even know what setting it's on I'm not sure...

    I even tried to wrap some things around the spring clip and put it back in to try and stabilise it (wrapped paper around it, blutac etc) but couldn't slot it in. So whether this itself needs addressing or wrapping tape around the threads not sure. May have same effect.

    So the photos are of the area where the lower burrs were removed from, and the burrs themselves.

    One strange thing though, the shot I pulled this morning (before the big stripping apart) was 20.5g in on grind setting 1.4, yielded 27.6g in 35s. Then this afternoon I did the cleaning and reinstalling, and went one notch coarser as the shot was a little slow.

    Purged a decent amount, about 10 grams (even though I'd cleaned and vacuumed everything out). Same dose on grind setting 1.5 (one notch coarser) yielded 19g in 35s! Bizarre, perhaps I've reset something in there!

    For tomorrow's shot I'm gonna go a touch coarser and fingers crossed something has been fixed here...








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  19. #19
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Just another thing, I think I've altered the zero point, that's why the shot i pulled was so slow. Turned the grinder on and went finer and the zero point (the audible noise where the burrs 'kiss') occurs much earlier.. not sure how I altered that haha

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    It sounds like maybe the burrs are a bit worn. Yes you should adjust the zero so that the burrs touch then back off 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn before putting it back together.

    The VST and IMS baskets require a finer grind than the normal baskets and some grinder strugge to get to a point that fine. I noticed with my Macap that the zero point is quite close to where the burrs touch, relatively. The Robur you can't / don't need to make this adjustment as there is only one collar. A simpler design on the commercial Robur and I suspect it will go finer too but not sure.

  21. #21
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Yeah I didn't go right to zero point and turned on the grinder, but turned it on, and very very slowly went as fine as I could go until the burrs starting kissing, and that point/noise happened much earlier than it did prior to my reinstalling it (so it happened at a coarser setting than before), so not sure if I've reinstalled them correctly, seemed straight forward just screwing the lower burr in. Am not sure if the zero point can be adjusting.. the only things I did was increasing the upper burr carrier and removed it, unscrew the lower burr and screwed it back in (which would be no change at all as I've just put it back into the same spot it was in before), and did the same for the upper.

    So somehow the burrs are closer together than they were before.. strange... That or somehow I've screwed the upper burr carrier in a different way... I guess the numbers are just relative and it doesn't matter when zero point occurs. It was pretty much on number 0 before now it's about 1 when it occurs.

    And ah didn't know that about the baskets, but I'm able to get good pours with the IMS basket, but not sure if grind changes would be trippy as a result of using one..

    But yeah it doesn't make sense that the burrs would be worn.. they aren't that old, hmm

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Yeah I didn't go right to zero point and turned on the grinder, but turned it on, and very very slowly went as fine as I could go until the burrs starting kissing, and that point/noise happened much earlier than it did prior to my reinstalling it (so it happened at a coarser setting than before), so not sure if I've reinstalled them correctly, seemed straight forward just screwing the lower burr in. Am not sure if the zero point can be adjusting.. the only things I did was increasing the upper burr carrier and removed it, unscrew the lower burr and screwed it back in (which would be no change at all as I've just put it back into the same spot it was in before), and did the same for the upper.

    So somehow the burrs are closer together than they were before.. strange... That or somehow I've screwed the upper burr carrier in a different way... I guess the numbers are just relative and it doesn't matter when zero point occurs. It was pretty much on number 0 before now it's about 1 when it occurs.

    And ah didn't know that about the baskets, but I'm able to get good pours with the IMS basket, but not sure if grind changes would be trippy as a result of using one..

    But yeah it doesn't make sense that the burrs would be worn.. they aren't that old, hmm
    It sounds ok to me. They rarely fall on zero where the burrs touch. You just turn the burrs manually to touch then back off a bit. It means they could still,touch but that point is normally close (ish) to zero on the dial. My M4D was showing about 7 on the dial for espresso but after adjustment it is now on 1.
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    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    I tried to get that central nut out but with all my might could not haha.. don't really have that many tools around, tried an adjustable wrench but it was just too tight. But anyway I reinstalled the lower burr, upper burr, and everything.
    You were probably inadvertently tightening the bolt rather than loosening it.
    To remove bolts that are fixed axially, you need to loosen in the direction of rotation since they are designed to tighten during the initial torque of rotation when the motor starts...

    Mal.
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    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Ahhh right haha didn't think of that, makes sense, like the upper burr carrier being opposite to the usual tightening rotation too. I will try that, thanks!

    But from hearing from others about this it seems that the upper burr carrier shouldn't move so freely, and there should be some sort of guiding collar for the adjustment button. The button just sits in the hole very freely and allows the carrier to move around... not sure if this is responsible for the wacky changes from grind adjustment... but even looking at the schematics on the Quamar website and even Bombora it doesn't seem to come with one, unless a newer model has been developed. But you'd think if this was the standard of what came with the grinder, that everyone who has the grinder would be having similar issues, but most people I've asked have no issues with the steps..

    In these pics, there is just the hole (with spring inside), and the button which sits loosely in it..

  25. #25
    Senior Member LeroyC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Ahhh right haha didn't think of that, makes sense, like the upper burr carrier being opposite to the usual tightening rotation too. I will try that, thanks!

    But from hearing from others about this it seems that the upper burr carrier shouldn't move so freely, and there should be some sort of guiding collar for the adjustment button. The button just sits in the hole very freely and allows the carrier to move around... not sure if this is responsible for the wacky changes from grind adjustment... but even looking at the schematics on the Quamar website and even Bombora it doesn't seem to come with one, unless a newer model has been developed. But you'd think if this was the standard of what came with the grinder, that everyone who has the grinder would be having similar issues, but most people I've asked have no issues with the steps..

    In these pics, there is just the hole (with spring inside), and the button which sits loosely in it..
    Hey Simon,

    I've just read through your last few posts and watched the videos. In my opinion I don't think the upper burr holder should move that much when locked in place. The locking pin on my old Anfim KS was a similar design, but it was smaller and locked in more firmly. On a direct drive grinder like this I reckon the upper burr will be moving about during grinding, even if it's not easy to see. It wouldn't take much movement to cause issues and you could be getting inconsistent grinding performance. The Quamars are a good value grinder but they were quite basic when they first came out. This one is a couple of years old now isn't it? I don't know them well enough but it could be a design flaw that's been improved on newer models, or you might just have a dud grinder. If I was in your position I'd apply Teflon tape to the burr holder thread. Even if you don't put enough on there to be able to remove the locking pin it'll hold everything steady. Regardless of how much tape you use I'd still leave the locking pin in place as it's an easy reference for your grind setting.
    One other option would be to buy a new locking pin. I'm sure they're available and probably not expensive so could be worth a go. Everything else looks fine to me so I can't really think of anything else to try. I'll second Mal's comment though - that nut in the middle will be a reverse thread, and you won't get it off without a proper socket (especially now that you've cranked up so tight! I had a laugh).
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  26. #26
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Thanks heaps Leroy, yeah it's strange it moves that much but I've heard that's normal and will lock into place once the grinder turns on, which it seems to, but still the movement it makes to lock into place is visible with the eye.

    Apparently there aren't newer models that are any different and still have the same button. This one was only a year old when I'd gotten it, was only used for decaf, and had about 12ish kilos of beans through it, and looked to be in great condition.

    Everyone's been so very helpful, including Paul from b who is still offering support and guidance even though I didn't buy this grinder from him, and many others have helped a great deal, so credit and kudos guys!

    For the moment I've applied some tape around the actual adjustment button, and that's actually really helped keep it more steady, as the button sits in with minimal movement. Upper burr carrier has only slight movement now when I use my hand as it's filled in any slack in the hole where the pin sits, and also can't see any 'snapback' when I turn the grinder on. Will give it a crack and see how i go!

    But if this doesn't work, and the steps show to be too large I don't what next as I can't explain it, unless my technique is THAT poor which I can't see it being honestly, I'm thinking try:

    -teflon tape
    -different filter basket
    -up/sidegrade :s

  27. #27
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Pulled two shots today with the 'tape' mod, going only one notch finer from first to second shot.
    After the first shot, I even removed the beans from the throat, removed the top burr carrier, swept, toothbrushed, AND vacuumed everything out, then after reassembly I purged about 14 grams or so on the new finer setting, to reeeeally make sure old grinds weren't the issue. Results:


    -20g gr2.1 y38.3g 25s
    -20g gr1.5 y21.4g 35s

    quite drastic a difference still..

    So it doesn't really seem that the stability of the upper burr carrier is the issue, the tape really held the adjustment button and thus upper burr carrier really well..

    Will try a different filter basket tomorrow..

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    As some may be aware I originally raised the large step complaint in the Q50p thread when first using this grinder. Glad I am not the only one experiencing this issue.

    I ended up putting it down simply to the design of the grinder assembly.

    Regarding the stepper, when the machine is on, the top burr assembly automatically rotates inwards and should push firmly up against the stepper for the entire duration of the grind. This makes sense to me from a logical stand point so I really do not think we are experiencing in consistent grind sizes because of the stepper.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post

    -20g gr2.1 y38.3g 25s
    -20g gr1.5 y21.4g 35s
    Before you blame the Q50 you need to use another grinder and see if your shots are consistent.

    And if you really wanted to compare consistency you'd want to pull three shots straight after each other with grinder full of beans (no single dosing, no fiddling with grinder in between).
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  30. #30
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    Simon admire your patience and fortitude on this journey
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  31. #31
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stralto View Post
    As some may be aware I originally raised the large step complaint in the Q50p thread when first using this grinder. Glad I am not the only one experiencing this issue.

    I ended up putting it down simply to the design of the grinder assembly.

    Regarding the stepper, when the machine is on, the top burr assembly automatically rotates inwards and should push firmly up against the stepper for the entire duration of the grind. This makes sense to me from a logical stand point so I really do not think we are experiencing in consistent grind sizes because of the stepper.
    Yeah it's just strange that many others have had no issues with the steps and found them fine.. perhaps every one in 100 or so is dicey? (Which can definitely happen..) It's odd as I looked at the threads on the inside and they look pretty fine to me, as though one notch adjustment (which really is only a very sliiiight rotation of the upper burr carrier) really wouldn't change it much, but then again I'm no expert in grinder design at all and don't know what it should look like.
    Quote Originally Posted by stralto View Post
    Before you blame the Q50 you need to use another grinder and see if your shots are consistent.

    And if you really wanted to compare consistency you'd want to pull three shots straight after each other with grinder full of beans (no single dosing, no fiddling with grinder in between).
    Yep, done that. Have pulled multiple shots on the same setting before, and get pretty darn consistent results. Sometimes the odd funny one, but when I get a solid distribution method and stick with it, I get very consistent yields/times with even pours.

    I haven't yet compared it to another grinder, I could whip out my old Rocky grinder, but even so, with those two shots I pulled, it's quite a dramatic difference still. Especially after doing a full clean out, and full purge on new setting.
    Quote Originally Posted by 338 View Post
    Simon admire your patience and fortitude on this journey
    Hahaha thank you, bordering on silliness I think sometimes XD. Would rather test it out properly and it might hopefully be helpful to others too all this info
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  32. #32
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    I would I immediately replace the burrs. If that doesn't work buy another grinder and sell it to someone not a member of CS.

    My reasoning is if it isn't burr related then it is an alignment or bearing issue. If so then you rely on a competent repairer to diagnose and fix it and that may be only marginally economic.

    I have a Kony for sale if you are interested, Doser model, amazing price.

    So brand new the box won't arrive until next week.

    PM if you want a real grinder, ha ha. seriously the size of the assemblies holding and aligning the burrs are immense and last for decades. The only issue is size.

    I'm in Perth though so freight would add $90 to price most likely.

    Cafe grinders although big last forever and you shouldn't get problems like this although too burrs can wear.

    I got my Robur from same sale as Kony. My burrs probably should be replaced in 2042.

    Go on be a man...

    Grant

  33. #33
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Hahaha thanks Grant, appreciate the offer, am sure one day I'll 'man up'! XD Thanks for the advice, not sure if those burrs are widely available, but probably are stock standard ones anyway.

    Ended up spontaneously buying a secondhand Compak K3 Touch Advanced. Super excited about that, to be honest I'm at a point (not just with the grinder specifically, but in life in general) where I want to simplify how I do things, and not get so caught up in minor things. I know I have the patience and tenacity to have potentially sorted this all out, but honestly I was just done.

    Want to be able to just move on and stop hesitating and dillydallying, so the timing was perfect, so I jumped on it.

    I want to take this time to thank each and every one of you for your amazing support and help. Honestly have learned so much more about coffee and grinders in general from this thread (and from constantly taking apart my grinder haha), so none of this thread or your answers have gone to waste. Know that I truly appreciate it very much.

    Looking forward to a new chapter haha , thanks all.

    Simon

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Hahaha thanks Grant, appreciate the offer, am sure one day I'll 'man up'! XD Thanks for the advice, not sure if those burrs are widely available, but probably are stock standard ones anyway.

    Ended up spontaneously buying a secondhand Compak K3 Touch Advanced. Super excited about that, to be honest I'm at a point (not just with the grinder specifically, but in life in general) where I want to simplify how I do things, and not get so caught up in minor things. I know I have the patience and tenacity to have potentially sorted this all out, but honestly I was just done.

    Want to be able to just move on and stop hesitating and dillydallying, so the timing was perfect, so I jumped on it.

    I want to take this time to thank each and every one of you for your amazing support and help. Honestly have learned so much more about coffee and grinders in general from this thread (and from constantly taking apart my grinder haha), so none of this thread or your answers have gone to waste.

    Looking forward to a new chapter haha , thanks all.

    Simon
    Yes Simon my message was basically quickly resolve or move on. Some things are just not worth the time and trouble. Ha vng said that there are some pretty clever engineers on this forum who would have that apart and new bearings fitted in no time.

    I have seen excellent grinders for $150 like the F5 Fiorenzato with 64mm burrs. Outstanding. Go bigger if possible simply due to over engineering longevity wise but also better tolerances and precision I grinding. K3 burrs are 58 mm which is reasonable so see how you go.

    Grant

  35. #35
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    Yep exactly, just wasn't worth the shamozzle in the end. And that's big coming from me who can be very meticulous and try absolutely everything and follow something to its slow and painful demise hahaha...

    Yeah I don't really know much about difference in burr size, thought it was more a case of the bigger the burrs the higher the speed of grinding, but yeah will keep in mind.

    Thanks bud
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  36. #36
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    Good luck simon. Please let us know how your new grinder performs.

  37. #37
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    Thanks heaps stralto, still getting used to it but new grinder is going great! Might start a thread soon with a short review and advice from other owners

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