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Thread: La Cimbali MD Domus grinder dismantling

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    La Cimbali MD Domus grinder dismantling

    Hi all

    My la Cimbali domus grinder needs blades/burrs replaced.

    Iíve disassembled most of it and am just left with separating the head unit that houses the blades.

    Any help on how to take the blades out is much appreciated.

    Also the grind setting is stuck and I canít seem to get them to ove wither way.

    Thanks inadvance

    Ross

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Ross its likely that this is a 'stepped' adjustment type grinder.
    Therefore it will have a 'lock pin' that needs to be pushed down to allow turning of the
    adjustment ring or burr holder.
    Look for a black plastic button or tab with non slip lines on it around the top face of the metal
    outer shell of the grinder. Near where the hopper slips in.
    It may be the grinder only requires adjustment / tuning in rather than burr replacement.

    Tip - before moving anything mark where the burr setting currently is.
    Then turn it towards the 'finer' setting until it fully stops.
    This is the zero point or where the burrs touch.
    Now make a mark here as well.
    If the two markings aren't within '11/2 hours' of each other than its likely that the grinder
    was set too course for your machine.

  3. #3
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    Just checked and there is no lock pin that can be pushed down but there are 2 small white nylon balls that sit between the adjustment ring and the burr that can be pushed in using a small screwdriver. I would think that the adjusting ring rolls overs there’s and that sets the position.

    However my problem is that if I try to rotate the ring left or right it appears locked in position as though something is in the way preventing any movement at all.

    I thought that that if I could remove the adjusting ring then I can see if something has lodged itself preventing the movement.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Ross the things I would be checking for stopping (or restricting) movement of the adjustment are -
    - Ground coffee build up that becomes Oil laden and dries like a thick paste .
    - Stray Bean jammed in between the burrs.

    Have you tried unwinding the adjustment ring / top burr carrier. If not turn this in the direction of the Courser Arrow >.
    If the mechanism 'binds up' then you need to turn it back say 1/2 turn the other way - Finer <.
    Keep doing this turning left then back to the right till you clear out the threads and it can be wound right off.
    GL
    EA

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the tips so far.

    Ok all good now separated the adjustment ring off but didn’t mark the positions as you suggested.

    So I’ve cleared the build up and wound the ring back in to bottom out.

    Can you tell me how to best recalibrate the grinder including where to locate the hopper to coincide with the readings on the hopper?

    Also you mentioned unwinding is > and fine is < but when I turned the ring < I was able to remove the ring which suggests to me that that would be coarser as the burrs separate.
    so when I refit the ring and turn it > like undoing a bottle cap the ring bottoms out on the lower burr so that would suggest the rings are at the fines grind point. Would this be correct?


    Thanks
    Last edited by Ross0133; 28th January 2018 at 10:50 AM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    Hi Ross first off I don't have one of these grinders. Nor seen one.
    So I am only offering general 101 grinder info.

    All grinders will accumulate 'fines' (coffee ground) in and around them.
    If not cleaned on a semi regular basis these fines will eventually release there oils and
    as you probably found this then results in something akin to a grinding paste getting in all the threads etc.

    Pls follow the stamped grinder directions / arrows for 'course' (undo) 'finer' (do up).

    Once you have reintroduced the top burr / adjustment ring as you call it & found the lite bottom or 'zero point' of the grinder ...
    mark it with a reference line on the movable ring. Adjacent to the stamped point on the grinder body.
    A white pen is tremendous as its semi permanent and can be easily removed when required.

    Now here's where experience and all the other 'grinder setting / vodoo' come in.

    I'd suggest you move it from zero in the direction of courser by '1 1/2 hours ' on the clockface.
    Being from 6 to halfway between 7 & 8...as you look at the clock.
    *If thats the right direction...if not opposite way then.
    **Now Mark it here again. So you now have a Zero point and a trial point to start grinding.

    Note This is a random starting point.
    So pull some shots. Measure and time everything that you experience.
    And notate on a text book to keep handy.

    If its to tight a shot - your shot doesn't flow.
    Then move the ring a further 1hr on the clockface in the courser direction.
    This should be a major move and the aim is to find the two general further extremities in your grinder setting
    so that you can then hone in on the desired grinder pos'n that give the correct grind to suit Your Bean and Your Machine and
    the equipment your using such as Filter Basket and tamper.
    Note - the Quality of your Bean = Grind +Dose (+tamp, minor input) to give you your shot characteristics.

    General Shot flow should be - 30ml in 30sec, and approx 5-8sec from hitting the go button till coffee begins to flow.

    Tasting it should be the first second and only consideration.
    Everything else are visual / data guides to direct you if change is required.
    GL
    EA

  7. #7
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    All sorted. Found zero and all working fine.

    Thanks for for your help EA.

    Regards

    Ross

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