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Thread: Behmor Plus - Roasting Approaches

  1. #1
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    Behmor Plus - Roasting Approaches

    I've read through some of the threads on Behmor plus in here and one thing I've noticed is a bit of a lack of thorough discussion on the manual mode, and techniques people are using to roast different varieties of beans. This panel update, going from the old 1600 to the plus, has been revolutionary for me, and wanted to share some of the things I've picked up, but also was hoping for others to throw a few ideas around to see other techniques being used. Anyway here goes:

    I write ET generically for your measure of environment temperature, whether it be the Behmor thermistor or a thermocouple somewhere in the chamber.

    I've been mainly focusing on trying to get Ethiopian DPs and Brazil pulped naturals down pat. I prefer roasts which are balanced in acidity, body and sweetness. I typically do 200g batches.

    Ethiopian - dry processed:
    Method:
    P1-auto mode until FC. I hit D for double drum speed at FC. As FC really starts to get going, I hit P1-manual to cut the power, keep an eye on the ET to make sure not dropping. This gives me a good loud first crack, which I'm always searching for on the Behmor. FC for me typically occurs at around 9 to 10 mins for a 200g charge. FC typically runs at around 1:30 duration. After it fades I hit the beans for another 45secs to a minute at half heat (P3-manual) until end of roast (cool). Typically my ET is creeping up at this stage, although I have a suspicion I should hit them a bit harder, maybe P4-manual, and for a shorter time.

    Brazils - pulped naturals
    Method:
    P4-manual mode (75% power) until bread baking smell, then P5-manual (100% power) until FC. Aim here is to go a bit easy early on to avoid tipping, but once drying phase is over get some momentum up before hitting FC. Once I hit FC I drop heat to P1-manual, hit D, when I hear the first few consistent pops of FC. I drop heat earlier then I do with the Eth DPs, because I've noticed the Brazils take off like a rocket if you heat too much during early FC. I let FC fizzle out, which is around ~1:30 mins duration, then add back P2-manual 30 seconds, P3-manual 30 seconds, and P4-manual 30 seconds, listening intently for any sounds of SC (and watching for smoke). At some point in this ramp I hit cool. One issue I have here is I can't seem to just butt up against SC (ie a few snaps and nothing else). Typically if I hear one snap of SC during the roast, I hear 15-20 seconds of SC snaps during the cool, and my roast is a bit darker then I'd like. I'd be keen to hear how others drive the Behmor to achieve this outcome - a roast delivering just a couple of snaps of SC.

    General tips I’ve learnt along the way:
    - Don’t add much (any?) heat during the start of FC or your roast will go off to the stratosphere
    - For almost all roasts I hit D at FC to kickstart the exothermic, but I use slower drum speed for the beginning of the roast. Keeping it on double drum speed the whole roast led to too ‘bright’ tasting roasts.
    - If you want to notch down a power level, say 100 to 75, the key sequence is P5, P1, P4. The elements have fixed cycle times which can lag this power change, P1 ensures power is cut straight away.
    - Before hitting cool, hit P1 beforehand to turn off the heating element. This stops that extra little kick cool gives your roast, if the element is on.

    Appreciate any input or discussion this post generates….

  2. #2
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    A very detailed review pb200 - should generate some great Behmor roasting discussion! Sounds like the new control panel is giving some great manual profiling options…
    Cheers Matt
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    Great write-up pb200 and thanks for sharing your tips!
    My experience with manual mode somewhat mirrors yours. Although, I haven't had a chance to play with drum speeds or cycle times yet.
    Here's a recent snapshot of my general approach:

    Guatemala Huehuetenango
    300g charge
    400g | P1 | Start
    Straight into manual mode 100% power (P5) to start of rolling first crack.
    Drop to 0% power (P1) for approx 20 seconds.
    Back up to 50% power (P3) for approx 2 minutes.
    Hit cool just before second crack.
    First few snaps of second crack follow. After around 20 seconds, I usually open door and speed up cooling by removing chaff tray along with a blast with some cool air.

    Completely unnecessary, but I have installed 2 bead probes to help diagnose and repeat roasts. One inside wall LHS and the other in the exhaust vent. Attached profile shows the above roast in action.

    Cheers,
    Pete
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by moreCoffee; 25th May 2015 at 08:41 PM. Reason: small correction
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    Thanks pcf1978, this is good info. I see one key difference with your heat application and mine is you hit them a bit earlier, after dropping power at FC. Is this because your ET probes tell you the temp starts dropping at this point (FC+20 seconds) ?
    Interesting that 50% is enough to get you to second in a reasonable timeframe, and this is a hard bean. Makes me think I should revise my ramp strategy between first and second for the Brazils.

    Maybe 50% power is all you really need between FC and SC...

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    Quote Originally Posted by pyrmontboy200 View Post
    Thanks pcf1978, this is good info. I see one key difference with your heat application and mine is you hit them a bit earlier, after dropping power at FC. Is this because your ET probes tell you the temp starts dropping at this point (FC+20 seconds) ?
    Interesting that 50% is enough to get you to second in a reasonable timeframe, and this is a hard bean. Makes me think I should revise my ramp strategy between first and second for the Brazils.

    Maybe 50% power is all you really need between FC and SC...
    I've found if I drop to 0% for any longer than 20-30 seconds the exhaust temp and rate-of-rise starts to flat line and then you need to hit with a lot more power to reach second crack in the same amount of time, which can give you less control approaching second crack.

    Some beans are far more aggressive at FC and can carry on to second crack very quickly, in this case I try and extend the time at 0% for a few extra seconds to provide better separation.

    Obviously without a probe in the bean mass it's hard to know exactly what the bean is doing amongst all this.

    If you decide to experiment, I'd be very interested in learn how you go!

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    Behmor Plus - Roasting Approaches

    Ok so motivated by pcf's pointers above I have performed some repeat roasts on the same bean, Brazil Toffee Cerrado, experimenting, among other things with the duration time of the power cut post FC. My daughter keeps tearing up and drawing all over my roast notes, so I will log them here for my own benefit and anyone else who may be interested.

    The first thing to note is that I am now able to control the entry into SC a lot more predictably, simply by using P3 manual after the power drop, as suggested above by pcf. The first thing I noticed with roast #1 below is this offish acidity in the background, and a slight lack of body given I had just touched SC. I'm no great cupper, and probably have the palate of a pig's ass, but I was able to tell this by comparing against roast #2 and also checking with my wife (unprompted!) who has a better palate than me. Researching this a bit further my hypothesis was a bit of a stall in the roast, and the post here Let's Talk About Roasting - Matt Perger has got me thinking about paying a lot more attention to the roast post FC to SC.


    Roast #1 -200g - Double drum speed at FC
    P4 manual
    P5 manual @ 6:50
    FC (consistent pops) @ 10:35
    P1 @ 10:48
    P3 @ 11:30
    cool @ 12:52

    One or two snaps of SC, could've missed them completely.
    Notes: brown sugar, toffee like sweetness, some ashiness, slight background acidity which tastes out of place with this bean.

    With the hypothesis of a bit of a stall in mind, I decided to shorten the power cut in Roast #2. Regarding the ashiness I thought this was due to overdrying, so I cranked up the drum speed the whole roast. This turned out to be a mistake, I think it made the problem worse.


    Roast #2 - 200g

    Double drum speed the whole way
    P4- manual start
    P5 @ 5:00
    FC (consistent popping) @ 11:20
    P1 manual @ 11:29
    P3 manual @ 11:58
    Cool @ 13:00
    Several snaps of SC on cool, lasted for 5 seconds or so. Remove chaff tray and opened door on cool

    Notes:

    Gobfuls of brown sugar, toffee like sweetness, little acidity, great body, but a little more ashiness than above.

    Next roast I will be trying to remove the ashiness, hope to report back on this success soon.
    Last edited by pyrmontboy200; 15th June 2015 at 05:44 PM.
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    All in all both the roasts above were very acceptable, they are incredibly sweet and true to their marketing name Toffee Cerrado. Lingering in the background of each cup was a little ashiness which I'm determined to get rid of. Some beans in the roast above exhibited centre line scorching. With the hypothesis of too much heat after end of drying to FC as causing this ashiness, I set about a new roast where I reduced heat post drying and made the time
    back up before drying. This turned out to be a big mistake :

    P5 manual until the 5:00 mark
    P4 manual til FC @ 12:00.
    P1 manual @ 12:05. P3 manual @ 12:25
    Cool @ 14:30

    The first thing I noticed with taking 75% power into first was a really flacid first crack, which never really got going, probably because I cut the heat too early.

    There was no evidence of centre line charring, but still some internal scorching and ashiness. Cupping this I got that baked/under developed taste that I know so well. A week later and the beans still do not smell.

    Conclusion, I should follow my taste buds and stick to the basic profiles above, with some slight tweaks on the drying phase, which I cover in the next post.

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    More research on this forum tells me to go slower in the dry phase for Brazils, so I took the basic outline of my successful roasts above, and reduced the heat early on leading to the following profile:

    Roast run entirely in manual mode:

    2 minute preheat on P1.

    P4 to 8 minutes
    P5 til FC @10:35, rolling at 11:15,
    hit P1,D @ 11:15
    P3 @ 11:45
    cool @ 12:30

    A few snaps of SC in the cool for maybe 10 seconds, it was trying to work up to consistent snaps, but never got there. Happy enough with that....

    On inspection the roast looks pretty good. Some 'internal' tipping, not visible from the outside, so maybe still too much heat too early? Will have to experiment.

    A preliminary cupping today reveals a very balanced cup that has good caramelisation, and little to no bitter tones. As my cupping is not the best I will wait for the ultimate acid test, a brew in the V60 at work this week before I declare success.

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    Brewed this roast yesterday and today in my v60, and it is a far superior cup to any of the previous roasts above. Full bodied, and sweet, very little acidity. It is a welcome change from some of the brighter Ethiopians I've been drinking.

    So I think I am converging on a Behmor 'profile' for this bean, and dare I say a template or starting point profile for all Brazil naturals. Tasting such a big effect in the cup of applying less heat during drying, I am going to keep experimenting, I want to push this point a little further, so next roast I will use the P5 - auto profile until FC, then to manual mode and a similar stretch as above. The theory here being to drop the early heat even more, and see what effect this has on the final roast.

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    With the theory that p5 is the most suitable auto profile for my, and perhaps all, Brazilian naturally processed beans I proceeded with the following 200g roast:
    P5 auto til fc
    P1 manual for 30 seconds, at rolling FC, turn on double drum speed
    P3 manual til the start of SC

    FC hit at 13:00, rolling at 13:25. I powered back up to 50% at 13:55, and at 15:55 I saw a puff of blue smoke, and hit cool. I heard a couple of snaps of SC during start of cool.

    This turned out a superior roast to the attempts above, far less ashiness if any at all, and got all the tasting notes with ease. It stood up well in the v60, the only pickle being as espresso this weekend I could detect a slight bitterness. This may be down to user error on the machine, however i suspect this particular bean should not touch SC at all, so next roast i will try and pull about 15-30 seconds earlier than the above, and see where that leads me. The theory here is this bean is so ridiculously sweet that it turns to charcoal a lot quicker, i.e a double edged sword.

    So there we are, P5 auto on the Behmor plus use of the manual functions to power cut and slowly stretch to SC, seems to work a treat for this bean. Next bean I am attacking is a dry processed Ethiopian.
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    Thanks for all the info on your roasting techniques. I have ordered a Behmor and will use your experience to give me a reasonable start with my roasting adventure. If you have any other info/advice, I am all ears.

    Will
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    So with slow and low being the general guide for Brazil naturals, I've gone back to the Yirgacheffe Koke natural, which I typically hit hard and roast fast. I took 200g with the following plan:

    P1 auto til FC, p1 manual for 30 seconds, then P3 til SC start or just before.

    So after error 7ing the first batch while daydreaming, the second batch hit FC start @ 8:53. 9:11 rolling and I could tell these bad boys had some momentum so I hit P1 for 40 seconds until 9:53. P3 manual til cool @ 11:51, no SC but good development and pretty sure it was about 10 seconds away.
    A pretty standard 4:4:2 profile if you allow some time for the Behmor to heat up at the start. Cupped it and got balanced acidity, big berry and rose water aroma, some sweetness giving way to dryness which I'm still unsure whether I like. Big body, and flecks of oil on the beans two days post roast confirmed this adequate development. A week later drinking this at work in my v60 was really enjoyable. The dryness which I had reservations about, seemed to have abated quite a bit.

    All in all a successful roast, and I will probably only tweak the profile above at the margins. Next I will apply this same guide to another Yirgacheffe I have lying around, and see where that leads me. I will continue to report these results back here.

    Ps the thought occurred to me that when the Behmor connected panel is released, a lot of information in posts like this will be redundant. It will simply be a matter of sharing a profile that works for a particular bean on the cloud. Clearly you will have to be in a similar temperature zone to the person sharing...
    Last edited by pyrmontboy200; 2nd August 2015 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Clarification

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    Tasting this Ethiopian again today after a bit more resting, I've decided that the dryness discussed above is a roasting defect. It is not an astringent taste but rather a component of the acidity which bothers me, I'm calling it dryness because although there is only a hint, it is there with every sip and reminds me of a dry wine. So I still have work to do on this bean! Theories to be tested are as follows:
    - underdeveloped, I.e although the beans show all the signs of proper development, right buried down inside the bean is not as well roasted as the outer
    - I've been keeping the power cranked at full bore until FC consistent pops, then slamming on the brakes with p1 manual for 30 or so seconds. So I'm conscious of a bit of an over correction here which leads to a stall. I wonder if a more gentle slowdown is called for here, I plan to experiment with a taper down in power as the first outliers go off.

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    OK I am going to dust off my Behmor 100 and get back into it. thanks for the motivation, and the details on roasting profiles.
    cheers.
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    I did another roast of the Yirgacheffe Koke Natural on the 7th, this time 300g with the following approach. I was interested to see what difference upping the batch size would have.

    P1-auto 400g til FC start @ 11:05
    P4-manual +D @ 11:13 (tapering down to 75% power heading into FC)
    P1-manual @ 11:27 (roll FC)
    P3-manual @ 12:07
    14:10 cool with 1 or 2 snaps of SC.

    Drinking now as pourover and it tastes much the same as my last batch, the dryness encountered last time is less prominent however. It's a good brew and all the fruitiness and sweetness is still there, however there is slightly less body than I remember the last batch having. Might need to rest it a bit more maybe... The jury is still out on the taper off of power going into FC, but I suspect it isn't going to be a big saviour. I realise how unscientific a lot of my tests of hypotheses are btw!

    I will be trying out another Yirg I have lying around in the Behmor and report results soon.
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    Back on to the Brazils again, last week I roasted up a bunch of old bits and bobs Brazil naturals that I had laying around. Following some advice garnered from this forum I rebagged all the scraggly leftovers of old bags into a single bag for a week or two to let the moisture content equalise. Again slow and low with a 200 g batch on P5 D auto, ambient temp at 16 deg.
    It was windy as hell on my balcony. Slow start to FC at 15:45, didn't start rolling til 16:45. Given this slow start I was worried about a dull result with no smell/oil, what I call baking, and didn't really even know how these beans were going to roast so I held the heat up in auto mode for another minute til 17:45 then powered down to P1.
    At 18:15 I hit P3 held heat there at half stick until I saw smoke then P1-cool to hear just a couple of SC snaps as I opened the door during cool and pulled out the chaff tray.

    Good smell after a couple of days. No visible roast defects, and passed the single bean post roast taste test.

    Drinking now as a double espresso one week later and really enjoying the smooth, sugary taste, with just a touch of acidity, enough so that it isn't flat. Reminds me of an Italian espresso.
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    Senior Member sprezzatura's Avatar
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    I accidentally left the chaff tray out on my #6 roast (PNG Mt. Ambar) and we've just enjoyed a fabulous pour-over of it. I wonder if the air circulation is less hindered by the omission of the tray?

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    Behmor Plus - Roasting Approaches

    That is something I've not experimented with, but thanks for the tip. The only time I did remove the tray was for a chaffy bean when I ought to have had it in (!) during the roast the chaff accumulated at the back of the roaster and started catching fire as I was finishing the roast. As I went into cool, the embers really got going, and I think the neighbours thought a back burning operation was underway. But kept a cool head and remembered the advice not to open the door and introduce more oxygen. Soon enough it died down, but the resulting roast was a little smokey!
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sprezzatura View Post
    I accidentally left the chaff tray out on my #6 roast (PNG Mt. Ambar) and we've just enjoyed a fabulous pour-over of it. I wonder if the air circulation is less hindered by the omission of the tray?
    The chaff tray has been changed modified and developed over time to do a great job of catching the chaff, keeping it away from the elements and not to hinder air-flow.

    Don't roast without it!
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    Senior Member sprezzatura's Avatar
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    Okey-doke! Just curious.

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    I stopped roasting because i consistently got dark results. i always aimed for rolling SC. i typically used P2 and B program. i'm not sure where to begin really and i'm a bit overwhelmed by info here and on this site. keen to get back into it.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeandkel View Post
    I stopped roasting because i consistently got dark results. i always aimed for rolling SC. i typically used P2 and B program. i'm not sure where to begin really and i'm a bit overwhelmed by info here and on this site. keen to get back into it.
    Maybe start by not aiming for rolling second crack. You need to be about 20 seconds ahead of what is going on in the roaster. I try to hit cool just before second crack start. Watch for an increase in smoke at the appropriate time. For instance, if you have a 400g load and there is usually 3:10 between first crack and second crack, then I would normally hit cool somewhere around 3:00 or even earlier. It is also helpful to get a torch to help view the beans.

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    That’s an interesting thread. Thanks for sharing your experience with the Behmor Plus!

    As anyone tried to preheat the roaster more than the usual 2 minutes ? I’ve read that hard beans can absorb a lot of heat in the early stage of the roast.

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    Hi there

    I haven't simply because of the safety cutoff, as you may know if you go much longer than 2 minutes, you can't roast immediately afterwards. I think it is determined by a cutoff temp on one of the thermistors. You can fool the sensor as described here https://www.reddit.com/r/roasting/co...e_behmor_1600/, but I haven't bothered.

    The reason I haven't played much with the preheat is that you lose so much heat when you open the giant door and fumble around for a minute putting the basket in like I do, and this will be a random amount of heat let off every time, leading to inconsistency. I've got enough inconsistency with ambient temperature, and all of my sloppy weighing/timing as it is.

    I think the motivation behind a lot of the people doing the preheat, especially on CG/HB/Reddit is to try and play pretend commercial roaster at home. But my guess is you will never get near a commercial drum turn temp on the Behmor, could be totally off the mark here, but thinking of the heat carried by that giant mass of steel versus the heat held by the little Behmor toaster oven, can't really compare.

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    Yeah I agree with the fact that trying to replicate a commercial roaster profile with the Behmor is kind of a nonsense.

    However I've been able do bypass the cutoff by putting in the drum without stopping the roaster (with heat gloves, of course!). It's actually easier than it looks with a bit of practice. That way I was able to preheat the roaster until B325 (I think the cutoff is at B330). I think the reason is that as the timer doesn't restart the fan kicks in not long after the the drum is charged into the roaster and from there the B temp starts to go down even if the beans temp goes up.

    With this little trick I am now able to have faster ramps. I can now roast up to 340g of coffee in the 11:00-13:00 minutes range.

    I was curious to see if others have tried this method and what were their results.

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    I'm in Queensland and lately the weather has been 23° with 63 - 73% humidity. Haven't needed to preheat at all and I'm guessing that the profiles were set for optimum room temperature (21°?).
    The profiles are about bang on for weight.

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    Has anyone tried P2-manual during the stretch as in here: Sweet Maria's Web Forum • View topic - Roasting from Joe Behm.

    If I don't hear back I will try this approach next roast.

    Bunkmil: do you find you get any tipping on those roasts with the faster ramps ? The reason I slow the Brazils down so much in the Behmor is I find they are prone to tip. Ethiopians not so much.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pyrmontboy200 View Post
    Has anyone tried P2-manual during the stretch as in here: Sweet Maria's Web Forum • View topic - Roasting from Joe Behm.
    That's funny.
    I don't know who the author mldavis2 is but I do know the guy in Australia that Joseph Behm watched doing 50+ roasts over 3 days this year.


    That method is posted all over this site in Behmor threads.

    200 grams of coffee

    Press:
    [200]
    [P1]
    [Start]
    At first crack press [P2]
    When ready and prior to second crack, press [Cooling]

    The variation to that is:

    200 grams of coffee

    Press:
    [200]
    [P1]
    [Start]
    At first crack press [C] <--- reset the timer with Rosetta Stone
    At first crack press [P2] <--- 25% heat, manual.
    When ready and prior to second crack, press [Cooling]


    It's the method I use at MICE and CafeBiz and other public demo sites where I'm roasting all day, talking and distracted and still every roast is beautiful. Give it a go.

    I should also say...
    be careful what (and more importantly, where) you read. Our friends in America use a different roaster, different voltage and what works here won't work the same there. In the USA on a 120v roaster the temperature drop when you hit [P2] (25%) is too much, they would need to press [P3] at the same point to get a similar roast.

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    Thanks, well I can't really argue with that! I'll give P2-manual during the stretch a shot.

    I wonder if p1 auto might be a bit hard and fast for softer beans though...

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    I wonder if p1 auto might be a bit hard and fast for softer beans though...
    Try it and then you will know!


    As for hard/soft don't get too hung-up on it. The fact you are quoting it makes me think it also came from a site that wasn't coffee snobs and was possibly just regurgitated by someone who heard/read it somewhere (even in the Behmor manual!)

    Nearly all arabica is grown in the same altitude-band and will behave similar in the roaster. Robusta and Island coffee (Australia, Hawaii, Jamaicia) will roast differently and a change in roast weight will fix the profile (less beans for Robusta, more for Island).

    Do whatever works for you but I think if you settle on a roasting profile (like [200],[P1],[Start],[C],[P2],[Cooling] ) and just adjust the bean weights I think you will enjoy the results.
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    Well, P1 and P2 are identical at the start. At the moment I use 400 P2 B to start (just because), switch to 75% with 8 minutes to go, back off to 50% at first crack, and after a minute or so then to 25%. Haven't tried 25% power at first crack as it is usually pretty cold when I'm roasting and don't want to tempt fate. At this time of year I roast 380-390g of green beans on that profile.
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    I like the sound of that too Barry O.
    Very similar profile result with some more momentum for the 380-390 starting weight.

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    First of all thanks for these suggestions, this really is after sales support on steroids.

    My original reason for slowing the Brazils down to P5 was inspired by this thread : http://coffeesnobs.com.au/home-roast...al-behmor.html. I was having some tipping issues with some Brazilian beans, and easily detectable bitterness, every roast.

    However I've never slowed the stretch down to P2-manual before, so I'm really looking forward to trying this out.
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyrmontboy200 View Post

    Bunkmil: do you find you get any tipping on those roasts with the faster ramps ? The reason I slow the Brazils down so much in the Behmor is I find they are prone to tip. Ethiopians not so much.
    I got some tipping when I pre-heated until B325. I think it's just too hot to start the roast. I've had better results in the B200-B250 range. I still charge the drum without stopping the roaster because I find that there is less lost of heat that way.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    Well, P1 and P2 are identical at the start. At the moment I use 400 P2 B to start (just because), switch to 75% with 8 minutes to go, back off to 50% at first crack, and after a minute or so then to 25%. Haven't tried 25% power at first crack as it is usually pretty cold when I'm roasting and don't want to tempt fate. At this time of year I roast 380-390g of green beans on that profile.
    trying this profile now Barry. At final roast phase at 25% do you go to SC or still predict it and cool before it?

  36. #36
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    Should have added: at 25% I didn't hit SC at all (stopped at 25min). Roasting Colombian.

  37. #37
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    I wrote a little above in post #15 about my experience with tapering off heat on approach to FC, as promoted by Barry O. Gotta say I haven't had a lot of luck with it. I find the beans need full bore on approach to FC, or I get a significantly extended time to FC. A lot of variables, and everyone's setup/environment/beans are different but your experience is mirroring mine, you haven't built up enough momentum to push over the line into SC in any reasonable timeframe.

    Maybe keep it simple and use the approach in #28 above ? And maybe hit P2 when the beans are starting to pop consistently....let me know how you go.

  38. #38
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeandkel View Post
    trying this profile now Barry. At final roast phase at 25% do you go to SC or still predict it and cool before it?
    Sorry for the delay...have been away.

    I try to predict SC, but it doesn't matter so much if you get caught short

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeandkel View Post
    Should have added: at 25% I didn't hit SC at all (stopped at 25min). Roasting Colombian.
    I've baked some Colombian using much more aggressive profiles, but haven't (knowingly) failed to get to SC when I've used this approach (note I haven't tried the Colombian on this profile). When are you defining FC? At the time of the early adopters? Or when you hear a couple together? I go for the 2nd. Could be a function of the fact that I'm using 380-390g loads too. If in doubt, just drop to 50% and leave it there and see how you go.
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  40. #40
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Just for further info. Did a roast today, using the profile above. Took particular note of timing of power changes and what was going on in the roaster.

    Beans: 390g of Tanzania K.
    Ambient Temp: approx 16 degrees.
    Initial Setting: 400 P2 B (so the timer starts counting down from 20:00)

    At 12:00 remaining - switch to 75% power (P4 button)

    At 5:21 remaining - clear first crack
    At 5:01 remaining - switch power to 50%, rolling FC approaching.
    At 4:01 remaining - switch power to 25%, FC has been rolling along.
    At 1:40 remaining - hit cool, a few snaps of SC

    Now, one thing you'll notice is that second crack would normally start at about 2:10 remaining (i.e. 3 mins 10 seconds after FC), but is about 30-40 secs late. The beans look great, probably CS10 and very evenly roasted.

    PS: I did another roast that was intended for the Brazen (and which I didn't want to quite get to second crack). It was a hard bean (Guat. Jacaltenango). It was slightly slower, and finished much lighter (CS7-8). I suspect that I would have struggled to get it to second crack using the above profile if that was my objective. Would need to leave it on higher power for longer.
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  41. #41
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    Thanks for the above. Looking forward to a cup review of these roasts....

  42. #42
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    Keeping it simple - P1 auto + P2 manual stretch

    Father's day weekend I determined was going to be a roasting bonanza. No less than three roasts out on my windy balcony with my ski-jacket on inhaling chaff and diacetyl, how else to spend father's day. Here are some results of mine using P2-manual in the stretch. So I've gone ahead and applied P1 heat to Brazil beans and guess what? No tipping or scorching. I can only reason that the problems I got here in the past were attributable to the roaster ET maxing too high between first and second crack. Well that's what I'm running with....

    Roast#1:

    Brazil Fazenda Aurea 200g
    P1 auto 200g
    FC start @ 9:50, A166
    At 10:11 I hit P2 manual mode
    roll FC @ 10:20, A173
    end FC @ 11:20, A183

    Cooled at 15:45, no SC in sight. A respectable roast but a little flat. Definitely too long a stretch imo. In retrospect I think I cut the power going into FC too early. One week later and I think it still needs to rest a little as quite light. The next roast of this bean I made certain to cut later:

    Roast #2

    Brazil Fazenda Aurea 200g
    Same approach P1-auto til FC, then P2-manual.

    FC: start @ 9:37, A192
    Roll @ 10:25, A197
    FC end @ 11:10 A204.
    Cool @ 11:45

    Hit P2 @ 11:00, this time a bit late ( a pendulum reaction to the roast above where I hit it too early). Just touched SC and I hit cool. Maybe 10 seconds of SC starting up. This one is a real espresso roast, I'm sitting here on my second double of the morning. Sweet cocoa and a little roasty, good reddish brown crema, what's not to like ?

    Roast #3
    Same approach again, P1 auto 200g, then P2-manual @ FC

    Ethiop Yirg Koke Natural 220g

    FC start @ 12:17, A196
    roll @ 12:39, A198
    FC end @ 13:55 A206

    Hit P2@ 12:45

    At 15:40 I hit P1-cool. One or two snaps of SC during cool.

    I don't think I would change anything with this roast. You could get two or three of the tasting notes just by opening and smelling the bag I stored them in. They smell distinctly of apricots, it's quite incredible. Good development, cocoa with body, and fruity sweet, and in my opinion retaining varietal characteristics. You *can* have both development and origin characteristics, it doesn't have to be light and grassy!
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  43. #43
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    Tried roasting some png waghi tonight using Andy's 200g method. Never got to second crack? worried I've set the voltage wrong or something similarly stupid. Any idea's?

  44. #44
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    I'm still finding my feet with this method but I suggest hold on longer at P1 auto before cutting to p2.
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  45. #45
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    i have a question but feel a little embarrassed to ask. I got a Behmor 1600+ for roasting and have been having a blast roasting. One thing i havent worked out is which temperature button should i be using for roast profiles. i typically use B but when i see roast profiles on here i see temperatures nearing 200 degrees, however i usually on see temps of around 140 degrees by pressing B.

    Manual says "Read thermistors by pressingA (exhaust channel temp once exhaust fan is active mid-roast) or B (chamber wall temp)"

    So do i use A for exhaust Fan gauge or B for Chamber wall.

  46. #46
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    I hold longer on P1 auto before cutting to P2 as well. This seems to encourage 2cd crack quicker. At least with the beans I've been using.

    This was fantastic:

    IEH 400 grams, P4D to CS10 (I hit cool JPT 2cd crack), rested 9 days and ran through Macap M2M and Silvia V.4 with 18g VST (but weighed in 20g) extracted 25.7grams beverage mass in about 34 seconds.

    Chocolate mousse. Just like sweet chocolate coffee mousse. Fantastic crema - never tried anything like it before.
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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by madaxle View Post
    i have a question but feel a little embarrassed to ask. I got a Behmor 1600+ for roasting and have been having a blast roasting. One thing i havent worked out is which temperature button should i be using for roast profiles. i typically use B but when i see roast profiles on here i see temperatures nearing 200 degrees, however i usually on see temps of around 140 degrees by pressing B.

    Manual says "Read thermistors by pressingA (exhaust channel temp once exhaust fan is active mid-roast) or B (chamber wall temp)"

    So do i use A for exhaust Fan gauge or B for Chamber wall.
    I haven't seen any temp that high in my 1600 Plus (yet)

  48. #48
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    Thought I would share some Behmor experiences. Firstly I try and keep it as simple as possible. No preheating No opening doors, No temp watching etc
    Now I always roast 300g of green beans and this pretty much gives me 250g of brown beans +- 3 or 4g and I roast a min of once per week on an outside BBQ area.
    I always roast new beans as single origin till I figure out how they react to heat especially between first and second crack. Then I will blend or continue to roast as single origin.
    Here is what works for me.

    300g of green beans
    [400] [P2] [B] Why this? because it gives me 20min on the clock and starts at full heat. This also means the safety feature will happen at 15 min into the roast. I set this on my iPhone as a backup timer in case I forget.

    A few min into the roast I take control and select [P5] (max heat manual)

    I sit back and wait for first crack. This usually happens, depending on the bean, somewhere between 9 down to 7min left on the clock.
    At this point I hit [P3] 50% power and then [C] Rosetta gives me 3.10min on the clock. Why? as soon as you select [C] the auto shutdown feature no longer operates. This is good you don't have to worry about it! Also time left on clock is the same for every bean and you can compare roast times from first crack to second crack

    Rolling first crack usually finishes with about 1.45 to 1.20 left on clock. I usually let clock run down to zero always listening for any signs of second crack and if so, stop roast ASAP.
    Now, I just adjust my next roast/s add some time at the end if needed or finish a bit earlier. Most roasts are about 15min. How do I know? The timer on my phone goes off!

    I just keep it all simple and it seems to work.
    Currently roasting 150g PNG Waghi,150g Peru or 100g PNG, 100g Peru, 100g Ethiopian (eg Yirgi etc) Awesome! try them just prior to second crack or just into second crack. Let your taste buds decide and enjoy your roasts. I am now up to roast 120, some are better than others but none I would call a failure!
    Good luck with your Behmor
    Cicarda

  49. #49
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madaxle View Post
    i have a question but feel a little embarrassed to ask. I got a Behmor 1600+ for roasting and have been having a blast roasting. One thing i havent worked out is which temperature button should i be using for roast profiles. i typically use B but when i see roast profiles on here i see temperatures nearing 200 degrees, however i usually on see temps of around 140 degrees by pressing B.

    Manual says "Read thermistors by pressingA (exhaust channel temp once exhaust fan is active mid-roast) or B (chamber wall temp)"

    So do i use A for exhaust Fan gauge or B for Chamber wall.
    Have a look at post #42 above. All those references to, for example, 'A204' etc = 204 degrees at the A sensor (I presume). I reckon your roaster is fine.
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  50. #50
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    Behmor Coffee Roaster
    Circada thanks for the input, I will try your full power to P3 method. I'm curious what is your chosen brew method? Also wondering if you would post a photo of a batch you've recently done?

    I've been struggling a bit with centre line scorching. I need more experimentation to figure out what is going wrong. I may have to revert again to a tapered approach to FC/SC such as post 40. I went out and bought my filter coffee this morning down at Espressory in Hunter because my home brew was tainted with bitterness! Looking at some of the Corretto guys roasts on here I'm constantly amazed at how even their chaff line looks on their beans given they take the beans right up to pre second crack.
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