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Thread: Behmor 1600 Plus - Coffee Roaster

  1. #101
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    Behmor 1600 Plus - Coffee Roaster

    Roast #3
    200g batch.
    Start 100%, fast drum speed.
    Drop to 0% at first crack, min 11, slow drum down. 180C A btn (exhaust?)
    Raise to 25%, mid roll.
    Stop after first crack. min 13:30.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401773569.917231.jpg

    Result: the one on top is from Patricia brewer (melb), bottom is mine. Super bright, but very light body.

    Plan for next batch (tonight)
    - drop earlier, maybe min 10:30.
    - and darker roast, maybe raise to 50%

    I know it's better to change 1 thing at a time, but 2 should be fine right?
    Last edited by kutis; 3rd June 2014 at 05:28 PM.

  2. #102
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    If I remember correctly from his CG post, Joe Behm would drop to 0% and increase drum rotation speed at first crack. Then he added time before cooling.

  3. #103
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JojoS View Post
    If I remember correctly from his CG post
    PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE....
    don't quote processes from the USA roaster on here. While it's called the same thing its usage is vastly different and it has different components inside. You are just going to confuse yourself. We also have far more stable voltage in AU too so adding time at the end of the roast might not be needed in our climate, on our roaster, for our tastes and our coffee making techniques.

    You will be far better off learning what works well for your own tastes, that is the real beauty of home roasting too. You have the ability to create a coffee that suits you and your brewing methods perfectly

    Having said all that , by all means take ideas from everywhere but then tailor them to suit YOU exactly!

    Enjoy the journey

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  4. #104
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    OK, I have just finished installing the Behmor Plus upgrade panel.

    Sorry Andy but it is not an easy job. Easy in theory; instructions are as described: remove the two side panels and the top. Unplug and remove the old panel and install the new one then put it back together again. However...

    Inexplicably each side panel is held on by 5 Phillips head screws and one hex screw requiring a #2 Allen key - on my machine, at least (my machine is one from the first batch of Behmor sold on CS so not sure if later models are the same.

    There are two cables that connect the upgrade panel to the side circuit board. Make sure you check out how they connect so you can plug in the cables of the upgrade panel correctly.

    The upgrade panel is held on by 3 screws, one at the top and two on the bottom. The bottom screw closest to the roast chamber is very difficult to access. I would say a Phillips screwdriver with a long shaft would probably do the job.

    The upgrade panel, top and side panels are held together by screws and tabs and it isn't an easy job to reassemble so be methodical about it. As you disassemble, take time to observe how the panels fit together and keep the screws together in groups.

    I'm not a gifted handyman and the job took me a couple of hours. I'm sure more capable CSers would find it quicker and easier. If you are hopeless with tools then I suggest you bribe a friend or relo with the promise of good coffee (or some kind CSer or site owner posts a good instruction sheet with photos)

    The good news is that I managed it and when I plugged it in and press a few buttons, it started up. I haven't tried a roast yet. That will have to wait until tomorrow or the next day I think.
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  5. #105
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    So, mine shipped yesterday and arrived in Adelaide at lunch time! Awesome service Andy! Thanks!
    I've just done the dry burn cycle, and I noticed the 'afterburner' comes on during the cooling cycle. Can anyone explain what the purpose of that is, it seems kind of counter intuitive... I thought you really wanted to cool coffee as quickly as possible... Isn't that why you put an exhaust fan in a bucket for cooling corretto roasts?

  6. #106
    Senior Member Dragunov21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pilko View Post
    I've just done the dry burn cycle, and I noticed the 'afterburner' comes on during the cooling cycle. Can anyone explain what the purpose of that is, it seems kind of counter intuitive... I thought you really wanted to cool coffee as quickly as possible... Isn't that why you put an exhaust fan in a bucket for cooling corretto roasts?
    The afterburner is part of the smoke suppression system if I have it right (I'm sure Andy will correct me if I don't). It pyrolysis the smoke into CO/CO2, I imagine.

    The afterburner should discharge out the back of the machine, so I doubt it has much of an effect on chamber temperature.

  7. #107
    Senior Member FineGrind's Avatar
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    My Behmor + arrived today. Did the proper setup. Tried a roast. Have a few questions.
    1* Is it normal to get a wee bit of chaff on the elements and blown up through the back of the machine?
    2* Is it normal to get a couple of beans stuck in the paddles that get burnt?
    3* The chaff flap on the chaff tray, should you flap it hard up against the drum when in position? Or have it pushed all the way down? By chaff flap I mean the flap on the top of the chaff tray (the perforated flap) not the part you push to lower the flaps on the bottom of the tray.
    Thank you.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragunov21 View Post
    The afterburner is part of the smoke suppression system if I have it right (I'm sure Andy will correct me if I don't). It pyrolysis the smoke into CO/CO2, I imagine.

    The afterburner should discharge out the back of the machine, so I doubt it has much of an effect on chamber temperature.
    Ok, that makes sense. On looking at it closer, the afterburner elements don't look like they would generate that much heat anyway.
    I opened the door after it started to cool down a bit and it felt like they were still providing a bit of heat, but I think it was just the heat still in the machine.

  9. #109
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    Another question regarding the behmor.. just got mine today! Looks awesome.
    It notes in the instructions that the standard roasting basket is no good for smaller bean coffees like ethiopians etc.. given my love for african coffees is this a problem? Is the other basket available through coffeesnobs?

  10. #110
    caffeinated lemoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doommachine View Post
    Another question regarding the behmor.. just got mine today! Looks awesome.
    It notes in the instructions that the standard roasting basket is no good for smaller bean coffees like ethiopians etc.. given my love for african coffees is this a problem? Is the other basket available through coffeesnobs?
    I believe that may have been true for the first production batches of the behmor a long time ago
    they were then subsequently replaced with baskets that had smaller squares so that smaller beans didn't fall through

    If you just got a behmor plus it should be fine

  11. #111
    Senior Member chokkidog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doommachine View Post
    Another question regarding the behmor.. just got mine today! Looks awesome.
    It notes in the instructions that the standard roasting basket is no good for smaller bean coffees like ethiopians etc.. given my love for african coffees is this a problem? Is the other basket available through coffeesnobs?
    Hi Doom, post #3........I was about to say welcome to CS............. but I see you've been around a long time!! ;-)


    Behmor

    See posts #660 - #663
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  12. #112
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    First roast with updated panel

    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    OK, I have just finished installing the Behmor Plus upgrade panel.

    Sorry Andy but it is not an easy job. Easy in theory; instructions are as described: remove the two side panels and the top. Unplug and remove the old panel and install the new one then put it back together again. However...

    Inexplicably each side panel is held on by 5 Phillips head screws and one hex screw requiring a #2 Allen key - on my machine, at least (my machine is one from the first batch of Behmor sold on CS so not sure if later models are the same.

    There are two cables that connect the upgrade panel to the side circuit board. Make sure you check out how they connect so you can plug in the cables of the upgrade panel correctly.

    The upgrade panel is held on by 3 screws, one at the top and two on the bottom. The bottom screw closest to the roast chamber is very difficult to access. I would say a Phillips screwdriver with a long shaft would probably do the job.

    The upgrade panel, top and side panels are held together by screws and tabs and it isn't an easy job to reassemble so be methodical about it. As you disassemble, take time to observe how the panels fit together and keep the screws together in groups.

    I'm not a gifted handyman and the job took me a couple of hours. I'm sure more capable CSers would find it quicker and easier. If you are hopeless with tools then I suggest you bribe a friend or relo with the promise of good coffee (or some kind CSer or site owner posts a good instruction sheet with photos)

    The good news is that I managed it and when I plugged it in and press a few buttons, it started up. I haven't tried a roast yet. That will have to wait until tomorrow or the next day I think.

    I would tend to agree with Flynnaus, it is a bit fiddly.
    If in doubt, just take photos each step of the way. Its not complex, or difficult, just have to think a bit and be gentle, thats all.
    Yes, there are 2 in hex screws in the base of the side panels.
    Jaycar or equiv would have a basic set of them for 1/4" drive and are always handy around the place, so if you dont have some already, its worth investing in a set, get the tamper proof ones, with the hollow in the middle if you can.
    Whilst out purchasing, get a telescopic magnet if you dont already have one, saves shaking the dropped screw out of the machine .

    Best to have a good quality set of screw drivers, a 40cm long shaft would help with the 2 bottom screws on the panel.
    Or just be thoughtful when using a standard stanley, and gently move the panel away a bit to turn the handle.
    I found on mine there were 4 screws holding the panel, 2 bottom, and one midway up and one at the top.

    Cables only go one one way, again, just be gentle.
    Give it a good clean when apart, I used a damp cotton bud after brushing the fans with a childs toothbrush to remove the majority of the dust with vacum nozzle nearby, but not too close to spin the fan.


    Got some Gambella Sundried
    400g on 1lb (have the old school panel)
    P2 B

    15 seconds in to first crack I cut power to 50, and let it bubble away gently, seemed to slow the rolling crack, and extend it, then put it back to auto when first crack was pretty much over.
    Good gap to second crack and let it into rolling second crack before stopping roast with cooling, pop door open second crack ends about 1 min into cooling cycle.

    Lovely even roast, Cs 10- 11 will try it on the weekend and see how it is, so far, looks great, and looking forward to mapping temp in first crack as it goes along, and seing what difference I can make by manual temp changes.

    Only complaint is the dead man handle, reset button, I was next to it, but couldn't read the dial as the sunlight was on it, and then realized too late it was on cooling...............grrrrrrrr.
    With previous panel, I would just go by ear as to where it was, and then shade the panel to read the time and note as required.

    Great to have a machine that can be upgraded, and backed with prompt, helpful service, well done Andy and your team.

    Trains
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  13. #113
    Senior Member Lukemc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemoo View Post
    I believe that may have been true for the first production batches of the behmor a long time ago
    they were then subsequently replaced with baskets that had smaller squares so that smaller beans didn't fall through

    If you just got a behmor plus it should be fine
    I just got a plus and lost a lot of Ethiopian beans from the basket. Also a lot got jammed and burnt. I had an older behmor and never had this issue.

    I put it down I a bad lot of beans but wonder now if they have gone back to the really old style of baskets?

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by FineGrind View Post
    My Behmor + arrived today. Did the proper setup. Tried a roast. Have a few questions.
    1* Is it normal to get a wee bit of chaff on the elements and blown up through the back of the machine?
    2* Is it normal to get a couple of beans stuck in the paddles that get burnt?
    3* The chaff flap on the chaff tray, should you flap it hard up against the drum when in position? Or have it pushed all the way down? By chaff flap I mean the flap on the top of the chaff tray (the perforated flap) not the part you push to lower the flaps on the bottom of the tray.
    Thank you.
    1. Not sure, but I'm gonna say yes, I think I read somewhere it's good to open up the case and vacuum up every 6 months or so?
    2. Mine has 1 spot that a single bean consistently stuck there, the paddle near the door. It stuck pretty well, so I can dump the beans and throw the stuck one to the bean. 1 bean, not sure what'll happens against peaberry though.
    3. I push it all the way down. Once I tried to put it resting against the drum, and it wedged the drum door, and stop the drum from spinning. Haven't tried all the way up, don't want the fan blow it down and stop the drum, and ruin the roast. I'm not sure how the flap effects the roast anyway, keeping more heat in?

  15. #115
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    I haven't tried a roast yet. That will have to wait until tomorrow or the next day I think.
    Tried a roast this morning. A bag-end blend of Gambella and Nepal Plantec (50-50)

    Did the usual ~360 g set at 1lb-P2-B which allows the roast to coast into second crack at the start of the cooling phase. This can be hit and miss with some roasts taking more or less time. This morning was cooler than usual so an ideal opportunity to try the Rosetta Stone feature. At the start of first crack, there was only about 30 seconds of normal roast time left. I hit C which automatically reset the remaining time to 3:10. I heard the first snips of second crack with about 40 seconds remaining of 'extra time' , hit Cool and the roast turned out perfect; you know the smell you get that lets you know you've nailed it.
    Next time I'll do the Rosetta again and try Manual mode with the Power Level to 75% (press P4)

    I like the extra control the Behmor Plus gives you. Well worth the upgrade.

    I can't figure out the worth of the temp sensor settings (A and B) during the roast. A gave me 153 degrees about halfway through the roast and the same about 5mins later. Pressing B showed 110 then 103. Any hints?

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    Still waiting for mine to arrive..
    According to its tracking no, it seems to have been sitting at Sunshine West since Tuesday Morning...

    Can't wait to get roasting - I have about a day and a half worth of roasted beans left in my supply. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    Tried a roast this morning. A bag-end blend of Gambella and Nepal Plantec (50-50)

    Next time I'll do the Rosetta again and try Manual mode with the Power Level to 75% (press P4)

    I like the extra control the Behmor Plus gives you. Well worth the upgrade.
    Sounds like the new plus is going to be a blast, my son has the old 1600 with an upgraded control board and I'm

    seriously considering one for myself as a sample roaster.

    About $1500 cheaper than a Probat sample roaster! No brainer. :-D

    My HGSR5 has variable drum speed, the 20Kg Buhler I have used, had a two speed drum drive.

    What I have found with slowing the drum before, during or just after 1st crack is the slowing of the roast RoR.

    I'm guessing that the slower bean mass tumbling speed allows more air/heat to be pulled from the bean mass.

    At first it seemed counter intuitive but it makes sense now.

    The Buhler people said it was particularly useful for Naturals, especially Ethiopian naturals/sundried.

    They certainly came out very even and looked great.

    I will be interested to hear what effect is achieved with the two speed drum control on the Plus.
    Last edited by chokkidog; 4th June 2014 at 06:15 PM.

  18. #118
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Such a barrage of questions... if I miss any post 'em up again.


    Roasting Drum --
    I wish the manual didn't mention the original USA drum. In the USA they had a steel drum chromed, it had larger holes and gave a few people some grief with small beans so they released a second drum with a smaller grid as an option.
    In Australia we only ever had the full stainless drum with small grid pattern.... the drum has changed little over the years and the previous build (2013) and this one (2014) use the exact same drum... stainless steel "diamond" mesh with a simple clip at the top. (thanks for the link to that previous post Chokkidog). May no one ever ask me about a purchasing a small mesh drum again


    Afterburner -- It comes on 3/4 of the way into a roast (just prior to things getting a little smokey) and remains on till the first couple of minutes of the cooling cycle. It won't add much heat to the chamber but the start of the cooling cycle is when the most amount of smoke is generated... hence the "over run".


    Chaff Tray -- FLAP FULLY DOWN WHEN ROASTING. The idea of the flap is to help catch some of the airborne chaff pieces if the get blown out of the bottom of the tray (ie: toward the fron of the roaster). Keep the flap down when roasting but while cleaning it you can open the flap to remove chaff bits.


    Rosetta Stone -- while not a "magic pill" it is a really nice way to get you pretty close to where you want to go.


    Temperature --
    the exhaust temperature [A] is the least useful. Before the afterburner comes on it has very little airflow, when the afterburner and draw fan come on it reads high temperatures which is mostly the afterburner temperature. It can still be used as a point in time reference though regardless of the actual number.
    The chamber wall temperature [B] should also be used as a point in time reference. If you know that after 5 minutes on a 200g roast the temperature is "x" then next roast you can see if you are under or over and make manual element changes to get you back on track. I would think that knowing your "normal" temperature every couple of minutes could help you make a call on a profile change.


    Upgrade Board--
    Yeah, I understand that if you don't normally install this sort of thing for a living it will be a little tricky but at the same time it is fairly easy and if you take your time it's okay. The bottom of each side panel has a TORX screw, (T10 from memory). These are part of the European C-Tick approval requirements and while they were viewed as a security screw at some point in the last 47 years, today they seem to serve no real purpose as every pack of driver bits with a drill or $10 screwdriver will have a range of Torx bit sizes too. You can sometimes remove them with a small flat-blade screwdriver if you are having trouble. These don't exist on the USA roaster but the rest of the world get 'em. Personally, I doubt I would put one back into my own roaster... but you can decide.

    Torx bit picture... Torx.JPG
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  19. #119
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    Wednesday, Pay day, Just placed my order

    Boy am I going to be spoiled for choice. new behmor along with three green varieties (might get a fourth thanks to the 2.5 with the roaster).

    Plus I have a manual roaster coming, so I'll be able to compare the two and learn from both ( or get really confused )

  20. #120
    caffeinated lemoo's Avatar
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    you're on to a great start amellor!

    i know that feeling when you've placed an order and cant wait for new toys to arrive
    most important thing to note is if you are doing research, don't over do it

    over thinking it will make the process less enjoyable i feel. best to plug the roaster in, load the beans and roast away!
    that's probably the reason why Andy provides 2.5kg of beans with all roasters sold

    experiment, experiment, experiment!
    if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a pm and i'll try to help best i can
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  21. #121
    Junior Member jillybean's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by trains View Post
    I would tend to agree with Flynnaus, it is a bit fiddly.
    If in doubt, just take photos each step of the way. Its not complex, or difficult, just have to think a bit and be gentle, thats all.
    Yes, there are 2 in hex screws in the base of the side panels.
    Jaycar or equiv would have a basic set of them for 1/4" drive and are always handy around the place, so if you dont have some already, its worth investing in a set, get the tamper proof ones, with the hollow in the middle if you can.
    Whilst out purchasing, get a telescopic magnet if you dont already have one, saves shaking the dropped screw out of the machine .

    Best to have a good quality set of screw drivers, a 40cm long shaft would help with the 2 bottom screws on the panel.
    Or just be thoughtful when using a standard stanley, and gently move the panel away a bit to turn the handle.
    I found on mine there were 4 screws holding the panel, 2 bottom, and one midway up and one at the top.

    Cables only go one one way, again, just be gentle.
    Give it a good clean when apart, I used a damp cotton bud after brushing the fans with a childs toothbrush to remove the majority of the dust with vacum nozzle nearby, but not too close to spin the fan.

    Trains
    Just upgraded mine as well. It is only 6 or 7 months old and and is put together slightly differently.

    6 screws (no torx/hex) on the end closest the control panel. 3 underneath & 3 top edge.

    7 screws on the other end - same 6 as above but one extra where it wraps around inside the edge of the door. Open the door and you will see it about half way up. This screw has a flat head so keep it separate.

    8 screws + a tab to unbend to remove the top*. 4 screws top back, 4 under top edge of the door opening (also flat head but silver so easily identifiable).
    * The top has 2 tabs that slot into the top of the control panel. On mine the one of these closest to the end had been bent up. This had to be bent straight to allow the top to slide forward for removal.

    5 (or maybe 6) screws holding the control panel in, but all except the bottom one furthest in are relatively easy to access (magnetised screw driver is helpful for these).

    The end panels slide forward for removal. Don't get too gung ho with the one on the control panel end as the fan cable runs from it to the circuit board. There was a zip tie keeping some cables tidy that I had to cut to be able to remove the light cable after unplugging it.

    All done and it actually still works
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  22. #122
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    Did mine tonight. About 45 minutes. Seems to work as advertised. Good value for the increased control.

    Chris
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  23. #123
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jillybean View Post
    5 (or maybe 6) screws holding the control panel in, but all except the bottom one furthest in are relatively easy to access (magnetised screw driver is helpful for these).
    I think there are way too many screws in the control panel!
    The tricky one is that bottom left (as you look from the front), if it wasn't for that screw you could do the front panel swap way easier and faster by only removing the right side cover... and if you have a 90 degree bent screw-driver you still could do it that way. I also think that one screw can safely be left out when you put it back together.... but that's my personal opinion, not that of the manufacturer.
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  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    I think there are way too many screws in the control panel!
    The tricky one is that bottom left (as you look from the front), if it wasn't for that screw you could do the front panel swap way easier and faster by only removing the right side cover... and if you have a 90 degree bent screw-driver you still could do it that way. I also think that one screw can safely be left out when you put it back together.... but that's my personal opinion, not that of the manufacturer.
    I agree. I took off both side panels but I'm not sure it was necessary. I had a single screw left on the bench at the end which was the one you mention I am sure.

    The new front panel looks like the old one ie the extra functions are not suggested by new graphics like the US pics I have seen. I don't think that matters much though. The extra flexibility looks great and well worth the upgrade. It's a no brainier for anyone with a Behmor. The original was a good roaster but it sometimes felt like roasting in a straight jacket. I had looked about for an alternative roaster but nothing comes close for the price and batch size. The new panel gives it a new lease of life. Cheap too.

    Chris
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  25. #125
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjhfield View Post
    The new front panel looks like the old one ie the extra functions are not suggested by new graphics like the US pics I have seen.
    AAARRGGHHHH.... please see post #103 above. What you are seeing on the US sites are best guestimates of what will arrive there in the future. What we have here is something we can touch and use now!

    Just for clarification, we will have 2 different Upgrade Panels here, the "original fronted" pound version we could land without waiting, the second one with the metric front and different colours around the buttons will arrive later this month. We decided for those that are upgrading they wouldn't mind having the exact same looking front as they currently have and as a bonus, they wouldn't have to wait another month for the factory to make new panels.


    Quote Originally Posted by cjhfield View Post
    The extra flexibility looks great and well worth the upgrade. It's a no brainier for anyone with a Behmor. The original was a good roaster but it sometimes felt like roasting in a straight jacket. I had looked about for an alternative roaster but nothing comes close for the price and batch size. The new panel gives it a new lease of life. Cheap too.
    Good stuff!
    I'm looking forward to not reading tips like "put the brush handle in the door at 1st crack" and instead see "I dropped the power to 25% at first crack".

    It's going to be fun to see repeatable tips, tweaks and ideas for profiles from the home roasting community instead of the string of "randomish stuff" that worked for some people.


    nothing comes close for the price and batch size
    ...that and quality close to a commercial drum is why the Behmor is the only roaster we chose to sell on CS.

    Enjoy the learning journey ahead!
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  26. #126
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    Changed mine over last night, Took about 10-15mins to swap, removed side panel and top panel, left other end panel in place. Took me longer to remember where I left some of my tools to do it, but then I am in the electrical/air conditioning industry so am used to pulling things apart and back together.

    Did 2 roasts afterwards mainly to play with the new features, really liked the added control over it and being able to extend the gap between 1st and 2nd instead of sometimes having them just roll together. Unfortunately it's now a wait to try them out and see if the taste is better than previous. Went with the pounds version display as I am impatient and couldn't wait till late June plus I don't really look much at the top buttons.

    Now to wait for the 1kg Behmor upgrade kit???
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  27. #127
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    Temperature --
    the exhaust temperature [A] is the least useful. Before the afterburner comes on it has very little airflow, when the afterburner and draw fan come on it reads high temperatures which is mostly the afterburner temperature. It can still be used as a point in time reference though regardless of the actual number.
    The chamber wall temperature [B] should also be used as a point in time reference. If you know that after 5 minutes on a 200g roast the temperature is "x" then next roast you can see if you are under or over and make manual element changes to get you back on track. I would think that knowing your "normal" temperature every couple of minutes could help you make a call on a profile change.
    Is the B temp the temp measured at the screw on the right hand side of the inside wall? Ie. I assume it's measuring pretty much the temp of the beans in the drum?

  28. #128
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleery View Post
    Is the B temp the temp measured at the screw on the right hand side of the inside wall? Ie. I assume it's measuring pretty much the temp of the beans in the drum?
    The thermistor is between the two screws on the right hand side, it reads the chamber wall temperature.

  29. #129
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Err7
    If you see an error 7 it means you didn't press the [START] button during the 30 second countdown from un30, un29, un28....

    If you didn't press [Start] during that period the roaster makes the assumption that you are not there or are too distracted and will turn off the elements and start the cooling process while showing Err7. It's a pretty small burden to hit the [Start] button once during a roast but this simple feature should ensure that it's very difficult to have a bean ignition on an unattended roaster. This is also mentioned in #5 on the Behmor 1600 Plus cheat sheet.

    Attached Files Attached Files
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  30. #130
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    Did 3 roasts this morning. My batch size is usually 350g. I used to do 400g but the time cutoff was sometimes a problem. I thought the time cutoffs may have been removed in manual mode but no, they are still there ie my usual 1lb/P2/B program has a maximum time of 22 mins 30 sec.

    However flynnaus's post #115 above got me thinking. He got it to roast an extra 10 seconds!

    So I tested it out on an empty roaster and it's true. You can add as much extra time as you want by pressing the C button. It jumps to 3:10 each time no matter how much time has elapsed. You can keep pressing C to add more time.

    OK you could burn the house down if you get carried away. But if you are doing a big batch on a cold morning and are over 20 mins going in to first crack this is a life saver.

    Also useful if you have modified the program by dropping power after first crack and slowed down the roast a bit too much and are hitting the max time limit.

    I didn't need to extend any of my actual roasts today. I just cut back the power at first crack as others have done. I was never a fan of the way the P2 profile ramped up the power to max at the end of the roast. Going to 50% power after first crack looks a better option to me. Going to zero power or 25% power seemed to slow things down too much. But it's early days.

    Chris
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  31. #131
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Roast #2 with the upgrade panel: started with the same 50:50 blend of 350g of Gambella + Nepal but as I only had 110g of the Gamebella left I topped it up with 65g of Ghimbi. This time I did the Rosetta stone restart at start of first crack (about a min to go on the clock) but at 75% power (P4). Hit Cool at the first snips of second crack. The roast looked good but it didn't smell as nice as the first roast (perhaps because of the 20% Ghimbi. Took a pic with the iPhone but the poor 'white balance' means the roast looks darker. It's also a bit uneven because of the Gambella.

    Starting with the P2 profile meant there were two drops in temp: the P2 program drops to 75% at about 75% of the roast time. I think the next trick is to do a completely manual profile, emulating the P2 profile but dropping the power at the beginning of first crack rather than at 75% of the time. I could also start with the P1 program and drop the power at FC from there. I often wonder about the long roast times of the Behmor and sacrificing the more vibrant flavours quicker roasts are said to produce.
    ethnepal_behm0614.jpg

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    I often wonder about the long roast times of the Behmor and sacrificing the more vibrant flavours quicker roasts are said to produce.
    Just curious...........how long are your roasts?

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by chokkidog View Post
    Just curious...........how long are your roasts?
    Given I have been using the P2B profile (20mins) and using Rosetta Stone with about a minute left on the clock, the roasts are about 22-23 mins. Then add on the fact that the roast will continue into the first minute or so of the cooling cycle you could argue the roast time is up to 25 mins. Compare this with up to 15mins on a corretto or <17 mins for a KKTO for the same batch size.

    I should temper this comment with the fact that I am using old stock from my stash, The Ethiopian Gambella and Nepal Plantec are c.2011. The Ghimbi was late 2010 so one couldn't expect too much from them, however they are roasted.

  34. #134
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Dumb question....but....why is the function called the 'Rosetta Stone'? I'm familiar with the historic Rosetta Stone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    Dumb question....but....why is the function called the 'Rosetta Stone'? I'm familiar with the historic Rosetta Stone.
    +1 Me too please

  36. #136
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    ... because Joseph Behm calls it that:


    1. Key Tip - Rosetta Stone:

    To better anticipate a roast hitting 2nd
    crack (second crack) and for superior roast control ALWAYS use the following
    time guides and tip.
    Once you hear the “first” cracking sound of first crack adjust times as close to the following using the + or –
    buttons This allows you to more accurately control and understand where you are in a roast, especially in
    cases where you have a bean type that migrates from first crack to second crack seamlessly. This also helps to prevent you
    from over-roasting your beans.
    a. lb - 1:30 minutes
    b. lb - 2:10 minutes
    c. 1 lb – 3:10 minutes

    The times shown are approximately the time it takes from start of the very first snap of 1st
    crack to the start of 2nd crack for regular coffee.

    Above cut and pasted from:http://www.behmor.com/docs/uscan120v-quickguide.pdf

    On the Behmor 1600 Plus.... Button "C" = crack as in 1st crack (easy to remember)

  37. #137
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    I guess it makes more sense than calling it 'Random Shot in the Dark'
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  38. #138
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    Dumb question....but....why is the function called the 'Rosetta Stone'? I'm familiar with the historic Rosetta Stone.
    I figured it must be some analogy with history. Strictly speaking THE Rosetta Stone is about language translation.

    Another explanation was that the Rosetta stone was part of a stele that contained a decree written in 3 languages that re-established the rule of the Ptolemaic kings over Egypt. This seems like an obscure but more likely explanation, even though it's conjecture.
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  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    I figured it must be some analogy with history. Strictly speaking THE Rosetta Stone is about language translation.

    Another explanation was that the Rosetta stone was part of a stele that contained a decree written in 3 languages that re-established the rule of the Ptolemaic kings over Egypt. This seems like an obscure but more likely explanation, even though it's conjecture.
    Both are true. Because the stone contains the same information in 3 languages, it then becomes the guide to translate other scripts.

    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    I often wonder about the long roast times of the Behmor and sacrificing the more vibrant flavours quicker roasts are said to produce.
    Compared to other roasters, The 1600+ has 2 drawbacks, hot charging and coasting. Coasting can be (kinda) solved by thinking 20 secs ahead. Now, I wonder anyone has ever try this, do a 200g batch, press 400 at 100% start without the drum and chaff bin outside. Then at a quarter or a third of the total time, put in the drum and the chaff collector while the machine is running. Scary as heck, but has anyone ever attempt that?

  40. #140
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    After sitting in transit for 7 days my roaster finally arrived today.

    Yeeha... had a day off so I have been having fun. I compliantly followed the instructions for learning to roast (dry roast/100g...) before trying to experiment a bit.

    After reading the manuals and feeling a bit overwhelmed with info, I found this youtube clip helpful in getting me up and running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnI9PGs8OAs

    Having used a Coretto for 9 years I have a handle on the basic concept, so its now just a case of working out how to use this baby. The first 'auto' roasts came up light/medium and then I did some manual playing around with 300g and got quite a dark roast.

    I want to get around 300-400g in a roasting session if possible, so the clip I mentioned above seems to give the route to those larger roasts. I had about 6 minutes left on the clock when I hit 'cool' and it was a dark roast, so I think there is definitely hope for getting 400g roasted well.

    I was impressed that the cooling cycle actually made the chaff tray and the barrel cool enough to be removed without a glove. As an 'outdoor roaster' (ie in the shed) I found it hard to see the time display clearly but I think its just a matter of roasting in the evenings when its easier to see.

    Overall the unit seems pretty well made and I'm very happy.

  41. #141
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    After sitting in transit for 7 days my roaster finally arrived today.
    I'm happy it arrived ok, 7 days is longer than I would expect and I guess it just missed the Friday delivery (which would have been 5 days). The other thing you didnt mention is that you are 3500km from here so it was always going to be on the long side of short!

    I found this youtube clip helpful in getting me up and running.
    I'm also happy you found that clip useful but please be aware that is a different model and different voltage (please see post #103 above)

    It's an easy roaster to use, and you will have no trouble roasting your 300-400g. Have another look at the "Cheat Sheet" that was included in with the roaster, that one page should get you up and going pretty quickly.

    I agree the manual is a little overwhelming, we need to create an Aussie one with less of the legalities and maybe some YouTube clips as well. I'll see if we can get something together one day to help others in the future.

    Enjoy the continuation of your roasting journey!

  42. #142
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Can I just confirm that 'OFF' = 'STOP'? The 'First Use Guide', when describing the preheat function suggests that one should 'press stop'....but such a button doesn't seem to exist??

  43. #143
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry O'Speedwagon View Post
    Can I just confirm that 'OFF' = 'STOP'? The 'First Use Guide', when describing the preheat function suggests that one should 'press stop'....but such a button doesn't seem to exist??
    Took me a while to find what you were talking about...

    Preheat:
    We’ve found through testing, a more robust roast can be achieved by doing a 2 minute preheat** of the
    system. Press any weight, start and allow to run for 2 minutes. Press stop, insert roasting drum, tray and
    start your roast. Remember use caution while working around hot surfaces.
    from: http://www.behmor.com/docs/uscan120v-quickguide.pdf

    Yeah, it's talking about pressing "OFF".... but because it's red and it stops the roaster someone has written stop
    ;-)

    I'm not a fan of the preheat, I really don't think its necessary and is mostly a hangover from the USA roaster and their lower voltages. My kids happily roast in the Behmor without ever needing a preheat but if you think it improves your coffee in the cup then go for it.
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  44. #144
    Senior Member Barry O'Speedwagon's Avatar
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    Thanks Andy.

  45. #145
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    Jealous....I decided to wait for the metric version of the upgrade panel.
    Looking forward to a bit of tinkering. Interesting to read about the different drums. I have the original square mesh and my Yemeni beans fall straight through...I still do them in a Breadmaker

  46. #146
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilMac View Post
    Interesting to read about the different drums. I have the original square mesh and my Yemeni beans fall straight through...I still do them in a Breadmaker
    Did you see this:
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    Roasting Drum --
    I wish the manual didn't mention the original USA drum. In the USA they had a steel drum chromed, it had larger holes and gave a few people some grief with small beans so they released a second drum with a smaller grid as an option. In Australia we only ever had the full stainless drum with small grid pattern.... the drum has changed little over the years and the previous build (2013) and this one (2014) use the exact same drum... stainless steel "diamond" mesh with a simple clip at the top. (thanks for the link to that previous post Chokkidog). May no one ever ask me about a purchasing a small mesh drum again

  47. #147
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    I doubt the accuracy of that quote. The drum on mine has square holes not diamond like the latest pictures. I love Yemen beans but lose too many to roast with the square hole drum. I suspect the diamond pattern drum has a smaller effective hole size. I will eventually replace the drum as it is on its last legs.

    Chris

  48. #148
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    I doubt the accuracy of that quote.
    Doubt the accuracy of my quote?
    Really? Might be your roaster was built earlier than you think.

    Again for clarity...
    The AU/NZ Behmor 1600 plus and the previous build of the Behmor 1600 (2013) both have the exact same drum which I call the pressed "diamond" shape which is as far as I can see is pretty much the same size holes as the previous wire grid "square" hole drums but has a different construction and a different, simpler closing mechanism.

    Rough timeline...
    2006 - Pre production model roaster takes SCAA Best New Product.
    2007 - 120v roaster released in the USA using a large hole, chromed steel drum.
    2008 - 120v roaster gets an optional small hole drum (chromed steel)
    2009 - 220v roasters released into Europe with a stainless wire drum (stainless wire, square hole)
    2009 - We landed a few pallets of the European roasters in Australia (stainless wire, square hole)
    2010 - We landed the first Australian build of the roaster (stainless wire, square hole)
    2011 - We landed another container of Australian roasters (stainless wire, square hole)
    2012 - We landed another container of Australian roasters (stainless wire, square hole)
    2013 - We landed another container of Australian roasters (stainless mesh. diamond shaped hole)
    2014 - World first landing of the Behmor Plus roasters (stainless mesh. diamond shaped hole)

  49. #149
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    Of course you are right Andy. I took your statement to mean there has only been one drum type in Australia when there has been two, the square pattern and the "diamond" pattern. Not having seen the diamond pattern myself I assumed wrongly that the holes were rhombus shaped and thus effectively smaller but looking at the pictures they are just squares rotated 45 degrees. The mesh size looks the same so practically speaking the two drums look different but perform the same. Its a shame they didnt use a slightly smaller mesh as I do like the Yemen Bani Ismali.

    Chris

  50. #150
    CoffeeSnobs Owner Andy's Avatar
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    Behmor Coffee Roaster
    There is a fair amount of science in the drum.. making the holes smaller mean there is more mass, more mass means that the drum takes more available heat and changes the way the roaster works.
    Rule of thumb on the drum design is least amount of material without making it flimsy will yield the best results in the roaster.

    I too love Yemen (favourite) and you can roast it ok on the Behmor and other holed drum roasters. Simply add the beans to the drum and shake it well over a tray, anything that was going to fall out will and you can roast those little ones in something else (popper or heatgun maybe?). There are other threads that explore this topic of roasting oddly small sized beans in the home roasting section (from memory).

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