Good on ya mate. After running with the Imat for so long, it may take a bit of getting used to with the whole HX bit.
Plumbed in I assume?
Would you believe it :o,
I actually won an auction on evilbay for a Bezzera BZ35 ;D. So after a long, arduous (and frustrating at times) period of losing to other bidders, Im finally going to be the proud owner of a high quality HX machine.
Will be picking it up next week and then giving it a thorough inspection from top to toe to see what might need doing. At the very least, a thorough clean of all hot water circuits will be in order and then what ever else might turn up. Of course, this means that my Mokita will be up for sale in the near future (with or without PID Control) so will keep you posted ;).
Happy happy happy!!!
Good on ya mate. After running with the Imat for so long, it may take a bit of getting used to with the whole HX bit.
Plumbed in I assume?
Further congrats and welcome to the club.
Id pull all the copper pipes out and descale in hot citric acid. Ditto with the boiler and HX unit. Getting the element and HX unit out can be problematic. I use the ratcheting air driver at Koffee-Tek. What seems impossible to shift will just unscrew. Its like magic. If you torque too hard on these parts there is a danger that you can distort the boiler or crack the joints.
I had a tough time sealing the HX unit, even with a new copper gasket. So I ended up using a silicone gasket compound (Selleys). Its worked well. The other option is Loktite High pressure pipe sealant (rated for potable water).
Once youve reconditioned the entire water path, youve basically got a new machine (apart from wear in the pump/auto fill circuit/solenoids and other minor and usually cheap parts).
My one mod that Id do to this machine would to replace the steam arm/valve assembly with a current BZ99/ BZ35 unit, as these units seem to have a fixed non-replaceable steam tip. The current BZ02 unit is ball jointed and costs about $70. Talk to Barazi.
With the rotary pump, you can simply run it from an external tank without a problem. I use a 5 l plastic cereal container and have added a 3/8 fitting near the bottom to connect to the pump. This is a great setup as you can always see the water level and top up when necessary. Of course plumbing in would be even nicer, but more expensive.
All in all it should be a brilliant machine. Thermosyphon group, 2 l boiler, rotary pump and boiler pressure gauge. All parts compatible with the current Bezzera lineup.
Good luck with the restoration.
Thanks nunu,Originally Posted by nunu link=1153577525/0#1 date=1153580085
Yes, there will be a learning curve involved for sure, but this all part of the fun ;). I will probably plumb it in as the site planned for it is very close to the sink in the kitchen, so wouldnt be a big deal. Initially though, I think I will use the method recommended by Sparky as Im an impatient bugger at times :P,
Thanks Sparky,Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/0#2 date=1153618265
Thats a very comprehensive list of recommended things to do and I will certainly be using this advice :) and contacting Barazi when I get to that stage of proceedings.
Out of interest, how do you have your water tank set up? Do you have it sitting on the fridge or some such thing with gravity feed to the suction of the pump with the BZ sitting on the bench? I wouldnt like to risk running the pump dry and since our fridge is right next to where the machine will be sited, it will make a good short term option until I get the plumbed-in option ready to go.
Must admit though, cant wait to get my clammy little mitts on the new addition :P... Will probably be driving up to Noosa on Tuesday or Wednesday to pick it up. Very exciting times indeed. Thanks again guys for the positive sentiment, much appreciated,
You have certainly acquired a machine with some pedigree there...
Safe drive up to Noosa!
Youre not wrong about the pedigree, couldnt be better and a lot more than I ever realistically ever expected to own. Just need to match a suitable grinder to the BZ now, something along the lines of a Mazzer Mini or Macap M5.... when will it all end ::)? Lots of fun though ;D.
Yep, well have a safe, enjoyable drive up to Noosa.... havent been up that way for quite some time. As we live in Warwick, will probably go around the back way through Crows Nest, Esk and come out just before the Big Pineapple..... a nice scenic route 8-). Im on tenterhooks as we speak, cant wait to get the big BZ home now..... waiting, waiting ;). All the best,
I simply have the reservoir sitting behind the machine on a table. Theres no need for gravity feed as a procon pump is both self priming and capable of drawing water from up to 2 m (beware, some rotary pumps may not be self priming, although Bezzera used Procon pumps in their machines).
A mate has his external tank sitting above his machine on a shelf next to his microwave. So its horses for courses.
I hope you take some piccies for us all to admire, once you get it.
Sounds great Sparky.... What type of pump is the Procon by the way, sounds like a gear pump and not an eccentric vane type?Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/0#6 date=1153702931
You bet [smiley=thumbsup.gif],Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/0#6 date=1153702931
Procon is simply a US manufacturer. The pumps arent gear pumps, just rotary vane pumps. There seems to be some confusion on the matter with some manufacturers stating that rotary pumps need a positive pressure and arent self priming. The guys at Barazi have stated that you dont need positive pressure for these pumps to operate and just use a simple tank arrangement when demonstrating their machines. Procon also state on their site that their pumps are self priming and can lift up to 6ft of water.
Check out the procon web site: http://www.proconpumps.com/
The down side with these pumps is that they use the US standard NPT thread, so getting adaptors can be tricky here (given that the rest of the machine uses BSP or metric threads). Not that that will be a concern for you.
Thanks mate, will do.Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/0#8 date=1153718873
Youre not wrong, can be a pain at times but if I end up trying to do a mix-n-match fit-up of some kind have got a friend who doesnt mind helping me out with lathe work, so what ever I end up doing it wont be a big problem. Once again, thanks for your help with this Sparky,Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/0#8 date=1153718873
Well done Mal, another project hits the bench, and whats a bloke to do if he doesnt have his projects and his shed hehe???????
Thank you Attilio,Originally Posted by Fresh_Coffee link=1153577525/0#10 date=1153822231
And it is oh so true about the shed and projects... got to keep the ol brain ticking over ;) and it helps to keep me out from "underfoot" if you know what I mean ;D,
Heres a pic of the little beast before I start to strip her down...
Is it caked on gunk on the wand?
Or has the chrome been rubbed off?
Will it clean up? Or is it on the replacement part list?
A trifling mater Im sure.
Looks like a nice unit. I think youll have it humming in no time Mal.
It appears to be a bit of both. Like you say though, its not a concern as Im going to replace the entire Steam Valve and Assembly with a current unit, as per Sparkys recommendation above. I can see why too, the original is very basic indeed. All up though, Im pretty happy with it and looking forward to the whole reconditioning exercise :),
Heres the rest of the photos with the covers off and before a spanner is drawn ;):-
L/H Qtr Profile:
Top Front of Group:
Top Front of Pump & Motor:
Rear of Front Panel:
L/H View towards Pump:
R/H View towards P/Stat:
L/H Side View towards Pump:
Rear View towards Pump/Motor & Boiler:
R/H Side View towards Boiler and Motor:
R/H Side View Up towards Black Box:
Now, to start planning and then action ;D....
Wow, Mal, thats looks like its in great condition. Still you have to lift the bonnet to really get an idea, and even then its not until you try to undo a few fittings that you really get an idea on whats inside.
Those PFs look like theyve been looked after. The two that I got looked like the black hole of calcutta.... When I cleaned them up, the inside was devoid of all chrome and coffe oils seem to stick to them like sh*t to a blanket. I recently bought a new replacement, which is nice and clean and easy to keep clean.
If youre in no rush, restoring the machine should make a nice project. Then you can enjoy the nightingales outside whilst brewing a shot due to the whisper quiet rotary pump...
Im looking forward to the forthcoming restoration journal.
It really is in great condition.... amazingly so I thought! The chap I bought it from said it was a gift from his wife because of his passion for excellent coffee.... Hes a Chef by the way of the name of Gilles(French), at a certified organic only restaurant in Buderim in the main drag there called Samara, above street level. Anyway, he knows his stuff when it comes to coffee and the need for cleanliness and use of high quality beans for all coffee (certified organically grown of course ;)). Apparently he was consuming so much coffee that his Doc told him to reduce the intake, or else :o. So now, he only drinks about five or six Ristrettos per day instead of 12 ;D.... the machine at home had to go :(. Mind you, hes got a great setup in the restaurant that he makes good use of.
Anyway, the upshot of all this is that he is very conscientious about looking after his coffee hardware and I have definitely reaped the rewards of that, as you say. Yeah, Ive been thinking about the whole reconditioning process. Initially I was going to try and get stuck into it and finish it off as quickly as I could, but after getting the covers off and observing the quality of workmanship that resides under the bonnet, I am also of the view now that I should take my time and enjoy the journey. When its all finished and sitting proudly on the bench, it will truly be a thing of beauty to behold.... definitely going to be worth the extra effort.
And like you say, it is really going to be a joy to use and reflect upon the niceties of life, such as nightingales ;D.... well, maybe not nightingales in our neck of the woods but certainly all manner of honey-eaters and parrots chortling to each other in the evenings. Will be great stuff. And yes, I am already getting myself organised to produce an illustrated journal in the form of a PDF document.... no sense being half-hearted about this, eh? Anyway mate time for dinner so better make tracks. By the way, have posted up some more pics in a previous post with all the covers removed,
Go Mal, go! :)
Java "New toys rock!" phile
I think youve got yourself an excellent machine there.
I have to say that rather than stripping it down, just do some temperature measurements or simply see what sort of coffee it produces before thinking of stripping it down. If it works well then it may be a number of years yet before it needs a strip down.
I did a partial strip down on mine, replacing the hx and descaling it.
It looks in pretty good condition too, no sign of leakage which means that it may have had a reasonably easy life.
I love the Bezzera machines, as you know, and for good reason. Very robust, well designed machines and with great parts availability. They also dont regard schematics as highly classified nuclear weapons documents which alas most manufactuers do.
A new hx for my BZ-40P cost $38. Outrageous!
All the Best,
Java,Originally Posted by Javaphile link=1153577525/15#17 date=1153914629
Is that meant in the same way as "Run Forrest, Run!" ;), and if so, whos going to tell me when to "Stop!" ;D
Hi Grant,Originally Posted by wattgn link=1153577525/15#18 date=1153919388
That was my thinking originally but after inspecting the intrinsic qualities of the machine, I thought I would do a complete restoration and bring it back to as new condition as I can, both cosmetically and electro-mechanically. I think its the least I can do :), and the BZ deserves it ;).
Yep,Originally Posted by wattgn link=1153577525/15#18 date=1153919388
Its in really fine condition..... just a bit of the lagging between the boiler and the b/box has deteriorated and some of the f/glass cable sheathing could do with replacing. There is a little bit of surface rust here and there on the chassis frame under the drip tray area and a bit of minor chipping of the main covers paintwork. Also noticed some minor oxidation on the motor frame and motor/pump coupling.... very easy to clean off.
I think an excellent example of the quality of this machine, and other BZs for that matter, is the shear weight of just the main cover itself..... it weighs nearly 3 Kgs all by itself, roughly half the weight of my Mokita including PF :o. Talk about being a robust machine... and from my initial cursory inspection, the rest of the machine seems to have been constructed with the same objective in mind. I can see why you, Sparky, HV_MAN and other Bezzera owners are so impressed.
Your tastebuds of course! 8-) ::) ;DOriginally Posted by Mal link=1153577525/15#19 date=1153921635
Java "Taste Mal, taste!" phile
Yes it is in superb condition. Just a thought, a very simple cursory inspection would be to undo the nut at the top of the group to expose the gicleur. If the machine needs a descale, it should be very evident here. Its also a very easy place to access without any worry about damage. The machine I bought had a bit of scale in here, which was quite indicative of the state of the rest of the pipes. Also remove the group head from the group body and check the state inside that for oils and such. The junction between the group head and group body were BLACK and crusty in mine and Im going to have to bead blast it to get it really clean.
After seeing the condition, my first impulse was that you should probably run a descaling solution through the machine a couple of times and then enjoy. However, your intention to completely rebuild it will ultimately give you the the peace of mind knownig that it has been restored to as-new condition.
Another observation is that the insulation seems to be in place to protect the auto-fill electronics from the boiler heat. Be careful there.
Hi Mark,Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/15#21 date=1153958090
Once again, thank you very much for those tips that just keep on coming ;). Yes I noticed that too and since I have a particularly nasty association with glass wool, etc I am going to very careful in removing it. Will source some high density mineral wool sheeting to replace it with once I am at that stage of proceedings, although I will be removing this ASAP and vacuuming thoroughly.
Ill do those two quick inspections you recommend too Sparky and let you know what I find. Until then, all the best,
Hi again Sparky,Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/15#21 date=1153958090
Followed your suggestion above and attached photo to make sure Im looking at the gicleur you describe. My initial impression of this specific item, is that it appears very clean and devoid of any scale. When I first removed the brass nut, there was a cylindrical fine mesh filter/screen sitting underneath it and this also was spotlessly clean. So, initial condition (under here at least) seems very clean and if as you say, this is a good presager of the likely condition of the rest of the machine, then everything looks very promising indeed.
I apologise for the slightly out of focus photo, my humble little digital camera is beyond its capacity of producing reasonable quality macro photography at this size of object. Anyway, hopefully its good enough for your assessment. All the best,
Well it looks like you scored big time with a well cared for machine. Of course there may be scale in the steam boiler, but Id guess not too much if any. It might simply be worth cleaning up the insulation and adding new isulation to protect the electronics. Maybe clean any surface corrosion and run a descaling solution through maybe three times and then enjoy the machine.
I am adverse to pulling a machin apart unnecessarily as it can be a real pain to get it completely sealed and leak proof again. For example, my machine developed a leak around the element and the boiler drain pipe, and that was after three attempts at re-assembly. I will fix these leaks eventually, but they resealed themselves with mineral deposits as they were only small. Still, in my mind the job wasnt done properly and needs to be attempted again.
I spoke to Chris at Barazi today and he asked me if I could help you out with the steam wand conversion, as I have the same machine as you. I dont mind doing this, so Ill have a look at the steam unit and get back to you with respect to its compatibility with the existing units.
Hi Mark,Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/15#24 date=1154059962
Yes, I agree with you on that score... My intention is to only remove that which is necessary to get down to a bare chassis, in order to bead-blast, prime and repaint.... Ditto for the main cover, the insulation as you have already mentioned and then anything else as is dictated by existing condition. Ill give the system a thorough going through with mild, warm citric acid wash and see how that turns out. If copious, unending amounts of scale are being extracted, then I will give consideration to opening the boiler and become a bit more aggressive. In the main though, it is just my desire to ensure that everything is in as good a condition that is both practical and possible for to attempt.
Really appreciate your help with this Mark :). I have heard back from Chris at Barazi and sent him some photos of the machine so that he knows what hes dealing with. I was also hoping to grab copies of Assembly Drawings, and Schematics for the Hydraulic and Electrical systems. Do you have copies of these at all Mark, or do you know whether Chris has any? It would be really handy to have instead of working blind, as it were, so that I can ensure that everything is up to spec.Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/15#24 date=1154059962
This is definitely becoming a very interesting exercise for me, and am really keen to make a start but until I have as much info as I can get hold of, will have to just keep the reigns held in for a while. Cheers mate,
All the schematics are available on the website for barazi here in Australia or on the Bezzera italy website.
I was looking at them as I read your thread on the BZ-35 yesterday.
Yes mate, I have seen the links there and downloaded what I could, but the documents available mostly only refer to the newer machines such as yours..... I think my style of machine pre-dates yours by quite a bit. I imagine though, that Bezzera or Barazi have access to the documentation for the older machines and its just a matter of finding out how to get copies of them and requesting their assistance.
I had a closer look and see what you mean now. The conductive bridge of the newer ones is quite different and hence the lagging on the one your have as otherwise the group would run too cool. On the newer ones there is no lagging. My electronics box is under the boiler (a bad location) although I have been OK so far, except when I was messing with it when I first got it and was fixing it up.
Anyway, it good coffee is the name of the game. I plumbed mine in with a double cartridge system. Water softening is important but it will run from a tank as Sparky has said. When I descale (Ive only done it once), I disconnect from the mains and run citric acid solution through it from a container.
Ive got a lot of pleasure out of my machine and it seems hard to imagine the kitchen without it now.
i was recently given an old bezzera 2 group- looks like it could be a similar era- if so id be interested as to what that era is- came out of a family members coffee shop
inside is very similar- had a leaky boiler seal which pedro from coffee parts recommended covering in sikaflex until i really need to replace it
thinking of insulating the boiler with ceramic fibre to keep running costs down
man, does it do a good job though!
Gday Brett,Originally Posted by telemaster link=1153577525/15#29 date=1154250365
Welcome to CoffeeSnobs [smiley=thumbsup.gif].
Yes, you could be right there.... Bezzera stopped making the MiniBar in or around the year 2000, so until I actually remove the boiler from mine and can view the Spec Plate, all I can say is that it is more than six years old but very well looked after. Sparky is the one around here who seems to know a lot about the various Bezzera machines that were available, so he might be able to help out with an ID for yours.
Yep, I was thinking about using ceramic/mineral fibre material to insulate my boiler too. I dont think it will be very difficult to do as there is plenty of room around it, yours has probably even more room. I havent actually fired up my MiniBar as yet but I am really looking forward to that day after I finish restoring her... havent heard a bad word about a Bezzera machine since joining this forum, so thats saying something ;). In fact, its usually the opposite, nothing but praise :). Cant wait to try it out but will have to force myself,
Mine was made in 1996 and so yours would be previous to this time.
I thought when I got mine that it was only 2 - 3 years old and was disappointed to find out it was ten years old.
Looking back though, that is the nature of these machines, built to last for decades and to still look good even after 10 - 20 years of use.
I do wonder how these prosumer machines will last. Most of them have only existed for a few years. One of the most important things is heavy gauge and high quality stainless that has a high chrome content to make it corrosion resistant.
My machine can still be polished to a mirror like finish and it looks like a new machine.
Im only going by some info I found by another owner of a MiniBar machine in Europe.... His particular machine had the boiler date-stamped 2000 and was apparently the last year that this model was made (over there anyway). Id say mine was considerably older than his though, as his machine still looked like new under the hood, all shiny and sparkling before he even touched it.
Anyway, it doesnt really matter that much, as you say, these machines really are built to last.... 20 years would be just a mere hop, skip and a jump for them ;D. Ill be giving the stainless on mine a good polish up too before Im finished, definitely worth the effort. Wow indeed ::),
First up, one bad thing about Bezzera... The BZ35 was not designed for a vibe pump, which seems to be an afterthought. The problem is that the pump has both an OPV and a suppression/check valve assembly. This second assembly is fine with a rotary, but with the vibe, the pressure pulsations cause the check valve to accumulate pressure over and above the nominal OPV setting. In short, its not pressure stable. The fix was to remove the check valve, then the OPV regulates the pressure nicely.
My mate who has this machine and has done this mod was still grumbling about the shot quality compared to larger commercials. So today he bought it along to the Pioneer roastery in Yandina and put it head to head with their new PID controlled Reneka 2 group. In that company, the Bezzera managed to pull the best shot. The culprit? His grinder. His Rocky has some serious burr alignment problems causing very uneven grinds to result. All the early blonding was cured when he used the Mazzers. So in the end the BZ shone. Im also glad to say that most BZ35s are rotary pump equipped, and so wouldnt suffer this pressure problem.
As for Bretts machine. It looks like a B2000 semiauto to me. The full machine specs are available on the Barazi web page. All the parts shoud be available for this machine.
I also took the Faema for a spin today. I logged five 60 ml shots and all were flat to around 0.second crack-0.3C and within 0.second crack of each other. The irony was that I couldnt pull a decent shot. I tried two and they were all gushers. So I got my tech skills down, but my barista skills still need some refining.
Sorry Mal, but I still havent had time to measure up my MiniBars steam valve assembly to check for compatibility with the current unit. Ill get this done during the week and get back to you.
HeHeHe, I knew there were bad words about Bezerras out there, thanks for that Mark ;)
Hey Mark,Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/30#33 date=1154259284
No sweat :). Ive got heaps of time up my sleeve so when ever its convenient for you is ok by me.... Pour a nice sweet Ristretto and put your feet up ;),
Very interesting about your mates machine and the Mazzer/Rocky influence. One has to wonder how the Rockys burrs could get misaligned in the first place :-?, seems almost bullet proof to me, unless theres a manufacturing related problem.... Would be interesting to hear how he goes trying to identify the cause and how, if possible, he manages to fix it.
Clutching at straws there poundy ;),Originally Posted by poundy link=1153577525/30#34 date=1154297487
Its a manufacturing fault. When he winds the burrs together they only touch at one point. That point changes when rotating the bottom burr, so its the seating of the bottom burr. He might try and warranty it, (but I think its just out of warranty) or hell have a go at re-seating the burr, maybe with the help of a Dremel.Originally Posted by Mal link=1153577525/30#35 date=1154322445
Chaos arrives next week with a new bub due, so Ill try and get you sorted before that Mal.
Just to bat for the BZs again. Once my mate fixed the pressure problem, his BZ35 is producing pure nectar. It easily performed on a par with the new Reneka Viva S and actually pulled the best shot of the day.
nough said ;),Originally Posted by Sparky link=1153577525/30#38 date=1154323424
hey sparky, what was that pressure problem u mentioned on the bezzera?
i thought i had a leaky- i did have a weeping boiler seal and a small leak under the pressurestat- sikaflex for boiler and new pressurestat, but i dont think they accounted for much because only change to boiler cycle is shorter dead band and corresponding shorter cycle
i think i was expecting the boiler cycle to be longer- 22 sec to heat, 155 sec cooling- 0.1 bar dead band
am going to insulate boiler (ceramic durablanket S)
re model- on the front it says MB 3000 compact 2 gr- serial no starts with a 95, but i assume older than that- id actually guess 80s or early 90s by the state of the boiler seal and the repair jobs on it
but for free and $330 in parts, not to mention a super forgiving machine- wow!
hey mal is that pullman tamper as great as it looks?
Yep,Originally Posted by telemaster link=1153577525/30#40 date=1154332669
It sure is [smiley=thumbsup.gif]. Very comfortable to use and easy to ensure an even, level tamp.... and as you say, it looks great! Cant do better than that 8-),
changing the pressurestat membrane is the main option for tightening the deadband short of a PID *;) (assuming you have a sirai pressurestat as seen in mals pics), although theres not much chance of improvement from .1 if thats your current setting.Originally Posted by telemaster link=1153577525/30#40 date=1154332669
I also cant see how fixing the boiler leak woud have tightened the deadband, *if you define the deadband as the variation in boiler pressure from the start to stop of active heating. The pressurestat simply opens and closes depending on boiler pressures. It would certainly shorten the cyle time. Did you change the membrane at the same time maybe?
btw my cimbalis run about the same ratio approx 7 secs heat, 75 secs cooling. Thats with an 1800watt element and a 2.5ltr boiler.
sorry for any confusion maurice- wasnt suggesting boiler seal affected dead band- only thing that did that was installing new sirai pressurestat- old one was working ok from dead band point of view- about 0.2 but underneath it- above membrane seal it was very rusty, little plunger bit was rusted and rubber perished and contacts were all black
i think the heater ratio is fine- i was just a bit confused by a few technicians who suggested the boi;er should only kick in every 10 or 15 minutes- now i can only see that happening with a very wide deadband- not ideal any way
slight squeal from back of left hand group head- will check to see if pipes from boiler or HX are all sealed- only operates between 1.1 and just above 1.0 bars- so a pressure thing
No worries Brett, I think your post was clear, my interpretation may have been amiss :-* Sounds like youve got all the bases covered, I usually find the membranes need replacing but if all the contacts were worn down then it sounds like time for a whole new unit . Assuming your Pressure gauge is accurate .1 deadband is very good for a Sirai pressurestat.Originally Posted by telemaster link=1153577525/30#43 date=1154342868
As for 15minute deadbands ::) this I cant imagine except as you say with a wide deadband or something with a massive thermal inertia, way beyond the realm of any commercial coffee machine Im sure. Ill leave it to others in this group to scientifically debunk this ;)
btw what temp is the sikaflex rated to?
Congrats on the new machine !
Now who will be my partner in Imat/Nemox crime!!
I guess that steam wand replacement project will never happen for your Imat -- tis a shame -- I was interested to see what youd come up with!
I suppose I shall be the only one to hold the FRANKENMACHINE title there.. hehe
I certainly hope you enjoy reconditioning the machine -- its sort of like restoring a nice classic automobile really :)
Thanks Lachlan, Im really pleased with it :D.Originally Posted by Lachlan link=1153577525/45#45 date=1154390675
I dont think you have any worries there, theres quite a few other CS members who own similar machines and Im always happy to help out with issues that might arise from time to time :)Originally Posted by Lachlan link=1153577525/45#45 date=1154390675
Yes mate, it is..... and thats exactly the way Im approaching it. No sense in having a great little classic machine if full restoration isnt on the agenda 8-). All the best,Originally Posted by Lachlan link=1153577525/45#45 date=1154390675
Heres some thermologs of a friends BZ35e. Hes got his routine pretty well dialled and the shots are good. Not too bad at all. This machine seems stable to within first crack during the shot and can give at least as good or better repeatability, depending on how good your routine is. With a well controlled temperature and pressure (and decent beans/grinder/barista), no wonder the shots are good.
Note: The coloured bar is first crack wide to give an idea of the stability.
In a nutshell, pretty darn good Sparky :),
I thought so too... until I compared it to my Faema ;)