(the pic didnt work)
Small risk for a play.
Look forward to following the thread.
I have just managed to pick up a two group Nuova Simonelli Premier Maxi for $100!!!
YES you did read that right. *It was off Flea-bay and I picked it up last night. *Have just started to have a look inside and will post some pictures but it looks in amazing condition! *Very clean internally. *I havent switched it on yet but am hoping to do that later today.
It needs a 15A circuit but Im planning to trial it with a normal circuit to make sure it is all working.
(the pic didnt work)
Small risk for a play.
Look forward to following the thread.
Struggling to get the picture to work - but I agree good price for a learning experience. Just checked to find that the workshop has been setup with a 15 A circuit!!! Just about to flick the switch and see what happens...
Will post later! and hopefully with pictures
Does this photo work?
That is a freakin sweet pick up for $100!!! Looks in pretty clean condition on the outside. Hope its the same on the inner. Whats the known history of this machine?
Not sure of history - I got it from a guy who had it for 6 months. He had cleaned it up and was a student. Didnt use it since he didnt have a pressure regulator. Dont think that he realised that he could use it with a tank/bottle/bucket.
Very clean inside
More internal shots
Yep, she looks great and a real bargain as well....Originally Posted by michel_c link=1222403262/0#5 date=1222431306
Just on the comment re using it with a tank/bottle/bucket.... be VERY careful!!
Some pumps (like procon) will run happily like that forever..... HOWEVER some (like many fitted to Italian machines as standard).... require positive mains pressure on the supply side....
My La Cimbali for example when used from a tank will kill the pump very quickly..... and a new pump can cost more than you paid for the whole machine..... So check out the pump specs before you try it or it could be an expen$$$$$$ive mistake :( :(
Fired it up this afternoon with some success!
I emptied the boiler out and was getting concerned about running it on a regular power circuit as it draws 13 amps. Then remember that the guy who build my house was a very practical sort of guy and so I checked the power board to find that there was a circuit in the workshop/garage that has a 20amp breaker on it! So I was keen to give it a go.
Checked the lead to find that it had been joined onto an old plug with tape - didnt like the look of that so removed joined section and attached a new plug (only 10amp plug for now).
Filled a bucket with water (procon pump) and put hose into it. Very nervously plugged in and switched on at the wall. Switched on the machine and .... the pump kicked in ... water started filling up the level gauge ... click ... and the water stopped filling. Everything was looking excellent!
Got up to temperature in about 15 minutes. Check the water flow from both heads ... all good, checked steam ... all good. Checked water flow ... a little too much steam but not unexpected.
Now where was the coffee to fill up one of the three PFs that I got with the machine. Two doubles, a single and a blind basket.
Down comes the very small looking IC grinder and in go some old Mexican HG Organic that havent been used. Quick grind on current setting - very poor tamp with 53mm tamper and ....
Managed to get some fairly reasonable looking coffee!!!! AMAZING
One problem that I did find was that the seal between the soleniod and the group head on the left hand side sprayed water when under pressure - i.e. making coffee.
Have ordered some shower screens and seals from Coffeeparts but am likely to need to order some more stuff before too long.
Thanks for advice JavaB. *This does have a procon pump so my understanding is that it will happily pull from a tank?
Is this right?
Yep, no problem at all with a procon..... Id say the original has been replaced at some stage EDIT: (just checked your photo and it shows Nuova Simonelli - so must be the brand they use).Originally Posted by michel_c link=1222403262/0#9 date=1222432440
They will happily draw from a reservoir :) :)..... so its your very lucky day!
This shows the location of the leak. Now to determine how to fix it... but at least the rest is working
Also found today that I might need to spend some time understanding how the auto fill works.
On start up the pump kicked in and filled the boiler up almost to overflowing! For some reason it didnt seem to realise that there was already heaps of water in the boiler.
Also when filling after using the hot water spout the water level appears to creep up slowly with each fill. Does anyone know enough about how this system works to give me any advice?
Is the water level adjustable? There appears to be two sensors on the side of the boiler - one must be pressure and one must be level. What is the basis of how they measure?
Im no expert on these particular machines but as a guide, the Boiler Fill Limit Probe should stop the pump at around 55-60% volume level and start up again at around 40-45%. The probes operate by their immersion in water altering the resistance being sensed by the controller... As the Boiler fills, the resistance reduces slightly until the setpoint is reached and the pump stopped. Usually, a second probe is installed to sense an open-circuit between it and the falling water level, at which point the pump is restarted.
If the probes have a layer of scale deposited on them, the resistance will have changed outside the expected range and the controller can no longer operate within spec. Simply removing the probes, clean and then replace will hopefully fix the problem. You need to make sure you mark the seating depth of the probes before removal to ensure that the control range remains the same.
It may even be worth your while to consider removing the boiler, heat exchangers, element, etc and give everything a good descale and clean. You will then know exactly what state your machine is in before starting to use it. Bombora have some great products for helping you to do all of this and at very reasonable prices too. All the best mate and have fun..... ;D
Managed to fix the leak from the solenoid valve with a replacement seal!
Still working on removing boiler and descaling.
Any ideas on best way of removing screws that dont want to move in the group head - holding the shower screen on? They are just straight screws and very hard to get reasonable torque on them to get them to move. Ive bought replacement screws that are tightened by allen key to make things easier in the future.
Worst option is to remove the whole group and disassemble using a vice but hoping that I dont have to go to that level at this stage.
Hi again Michel...
Is it possible to remove the Group Heads before trying to do this? If so, it would then be much easier to gain access to the offending screws and probably easier to apply the necessary encouragement to loosen and then replace them, ;)
I think that it will all come apart and it will be much easier. *After tonights work of removing the boiler (see photo) I dont have any concerns about taking anything else apart.
The boiler came out in just over a hour and it was full of scale! *I have descaler coming from Bombora/Talk Coffee in the next few days and the boiler will get a bath in that.
Also the water level probe is nicely covered in scale so that will go into the solution as well.
Some of the scale
what a bargain mate, i ran one of those at church, they make a very respectable cup of coffee providing the beans are fresh. got lots of pleasant exclamations from fellow churchies. you cant lose.......
Is that scale or some sort of plating that has come off inside?
Great buy for $100 by the way!
I think that its scale! I hope that it is! AHHHHH now Im scared...
Actually not really - it doesnt look like there is any coating inside the boiler so I have to assume that it is just scale that has built up on the inside of the boiler and come away in sheets. That is the way that scale normally forms in my experience.
Have managed to strip it down totally tonight but dont have any photos to show. It is a little scary just how easily I have taken the whole machine apart - Getting it back together might be a little more trickly. Very glad that I have taken the time since there is heaps of scale all through the machine.
Also have been thinking about sides and base and changing how it looks. The base has had a fairly good life and could do with an upgrade. I have a friend who has the setup to spray two-pak paint and I was thinking that a nice matt black would look the part. Very similar to current colour but harder wearing than the plastic.
Sides and back arent as bad and could just get away with a polish/clean up to see how they come up.
This is all heaps of fun playing with machines - better than watching TV!!!
Ill try to post some photos tomorrow night of the stripped down machine.
In bits - Frame, pump, boiler (much less scale than when I got it but still waiting for descaler - just used citric acid as I couldnt wait)
More parts - hopefully they will find their own way back into the correct location
Base - this is the part that Im planning on using two pack on. *It is hard to see from the photo but it isnt in great condition with the top layer of the plastic coming off in parts. *I think that it would look really good as a black two pack and that would make it easy to clean and quite robust. Just on the external part of course...
Also thinking of disconnecting one of the elements. It looks to me like all that I need to do is to remove a couple of the links between the elements.
Is it that simple?
Yep, its that simple. Take one of the links of the active side (should be the brown wire - but Id trace it back to the plug just to make sure).
Very nice machine youve picked up there. Its worth getting to know your way around inside. It sounds like youll have it running for $100 plus small change.
The boiler fill sensor position seems a bit strange as it looks to be higher than the pressure stat line and pretty much near the top of the boiler. Im used to boilers sitting around half filled. Ive increased the water level in my machine to about 2/3 full. Its hard to tell whats going on with a few pics though.
Maybe the probe is bent over at right angles after it enters the boiler Mark? Does look strange at first glance though....Originally Posted by Sparky link=1222403262/20#25 date=1223291915
Yes the boiler probe is bent over at more than 90 degrees! Im not really sure why it is done like that but it should work now that Ive removed all of the scale.
Another question for the masses ... insulation??? Ive read a few posts from last year about silicon foam insulation which sounds excellent. Does anyone know if the situtation has changed in terms of getting my hands on some? I have to assume not but it is always worth asking.
If nothing available has anyone come up with another option that would be suitable/cheap and effective?
Thanks to all
there is an industrial company in Melbourne selling some insulation on ferralbay search for user drezmelz and you should find them. I ordered some as part of my Rancillio rebuild and I will have some leftover at this stage. The plan is to make a sewn blanket with toggles to hold it in place button style.
Mal will be along soon with more info on the Silicon ;)
Unfortunately, Closed Cell Silicone Sponge Sheet insulation is very expensive here in Oz. There are several manufacturers in China though who sell it for much more reasonable cost but the problem is finding one who you can converse with in an effort to arrange both purchase and shipping. After several very frustrating months of trying to buy some for a planned group purchase a couple of years ago, we ended up giving it a big miss. Another group in the UK managed to make a bulk purchase from a company selling the stuff in a previous eastern block country (I believe) and therefore were able to buy the insulation sheeting for quite a reasonable cost, though not as low as that offered by the Chinese company.
It may be worth your while to chase up the option of purchasing from China again as things may have improved over the intervening couple of years. Alternatively, you could opt for going with Biosoluble Long Strand Glass Fibre Insulation. This is available from a couple of companies in Australia for very reasonable cost and would be quite easy and safe to install. Avoid all forms of Ceramic or Rock Wool Insulation as this stuff is not safe to install or maintain outside of very specialised premises. The fibres from this stuff, once inhaled, can lead to all sorts of nasty health implications.
Hope some of this info is helpful mate.... :)
Beanflying - just a question, do you have any leftover insulation? Im not sure that I really need a full roll.
Ill see what I can chase up via China, but dont like my chances
I will have some leftover but I need to work out how much I need for a start. I had planned to offer it here if it worked out ok for the job. At a rough thinking measure I will have about 4-5 m x 915mm left so I will most likely put it up as 2 lots at about $35each + post to cover costs on it as the $50/lot postage from the seller was little exe.
I will let you know how it turns out when I try playing with the stuff later in the week.
This is the stuff I was referring to Michel... Product Group > Thermal > Fiberglass 550░C > Tempmat Batts Scroll down about 5-6 pages and you will see its description. It is considerably cheaper than the stuff "bf" managed to grab from the bay of evil and is fully safe for installation and use by the average person taking the usual precautions when using fibreglass batts of any kind. Once wrapped around the Boiler, just tie it in place with a few loops of fibreglass tape. Really very easy and not all that messy.... :)
just out of interest did you bother doing the ends of the boiler as well? Also any idea of power reduction or startup times?
BTW I went with the heavier cloth so I can make a removable shroud of sorts for mine.
I had a laugh.... Were still waiting for the builder to finish off our new garage/workshop and until its finished, I dont have anywhere to finish the resto of my Bezz. Anyway, to cut a long story short..... Yes, I do intend insulating the entire Boiler but not any of the pipework as this will upset the thermodynamics of the machine.Originally Posted by beanflying link=1222403262/20#33 date=1223433122
Heat up time can be reduced by as much as 50%, with the p/stat duty cycle reduced down to about 3-5% in a steady-state condition. Also, it means that heat damage to adjacent electrical wiring, components and electronics is all but reduced to zero, so longevity of the machine in total will be significantly enhanced.
All in all, most definitely a very worthwhile thing to do. Naturally, the cup warming tray above the boiler will be all but useless for that specific purpose anymore but in my case, it doesnt matter as I always flush out the cups with hot water before pulling each shot. Hope that helps a bit mate... :)
I know what you mean I have been shedless at home for 4 years until about 3 months ago, makes it awkward for important stuff in life :) Still need to keep the epoxy and balsa dust away from the coffee stuff ;)
Now back to Michels thread ::)
On sheds - moved a year ago into our place and it has double garage - One is mine!!! My car lives on the street
Glad to see that the priorities are properly sorted at your place Michel..... ;)Originally Posted by michel_c link=1222403262/20#36 date=1223468390
Not too much of an update but did drop into Barazi in Coopers Plains for a bit of a chat about coffee and all things related. They were super helpful and good for a chat. They also were great and found 4 seals for my soleniod valves!
Also looking for suggestions on how to buff up stainless steel. It would be great to be able to bring some of the SS on the machine back to what it should look like.
Still awaiting my mate putting the two-pack onto the base. Once that is done I can start putting it all back together again. I cant wait!!!
Sewn Cloth wheel on the front of a drill or grinder and stainless steel buffing compound (fine abrasive normally in stick form). Try your nearest industrial supplies or Tool shop. General hardware shops maybe for thios stuff but unlikely.
Apart from that LOTS of elbow grease lambswool and car cuting compound should do as well but even if you have to buy a drill or grinder it will be worth it ;)
I think that I might HAVE to go to Bunnings and make a purchase on the weekend...
and prepare the sofa for a night alone when the wife finds out... she has been excellent with the hobby of pulling the machine apart but I know that it will only go so far
Mate - that is a very nice looking machine for a very nice price...in fact it might take the cake over my FAEMA purchase for sheer value. *Im sure you will love having a commercial at home. *I have the whole 3500 odd watts going and I suppose its a dollar per day to run. *But you have to take off that the cost of bringing a kettle up to boil a dozen times a day...so at a guess perhaps the real cost might be 70c per day (just a guess at the offset) and I reckon for the convenience and quality thats pretty awesome.
Finally something else to update. Tomorrow Im putting the black two pack paint onto the base.
My mate has primed it already so tomorrow morning well give it a quick sand, prepare the paint, then
... hopefully I dont stuff it up!!!
... PAINT !!!!
Also should be getting samples of foam insulation (up to 150C) some time next week finally!
Will try to post more photos of pre and post paint job tomorrow
Mike, this is a fantastic thread!
I had trouble with my "autofil" circuit too. *When I powered up the machine for the first time, no pump running. *Smelled "hot" right away and I powered down. *Seems like the heater just went on right away without giving a chance for the fill to take place.
I unpluged one side of the thermostat (brown wire to the heater) then powered back on. *After 45 seconds or so the tank began filling. *The whole time I think the heater would have been on if it werent disabled, so remember this when you re-assemble with an empty tank.
Are you going to paint flames on the side or anything? :) *Id considered painting, but my wife liked the black and red, so if shes happy (with the price and size of a small car) ... were all happy!
Very sad today... too humid to paint! So I made a sand pit for the kids instead...
Hopefully will get a coat of paint during the week.
Chad - not really sure what else Ill do to the machine. Still planning on polishing up the stainless but that is fairly easy to do later. Was thinking about re-painting the sides but once again easy to do later. Painting the bottom now since its all in pieces and easy to do.
Ill let you know if anything happens during the week.
ALL PAINTED!!! Now just need to get back from Melbourne to put it all back together all with the insulation.
Who knows I might just have it running within a week. I cant wait
Just put it all together last night but did have some problems. The boiler seems to fill when I run water through the group heads.
Was thinking that there was a couple of possible reasons for the leak
1. Leak in HE inside the boiler - would be the end of the machine BUT happens when using both group heads so unlikely
2. Leak through the manual valve - will need to pull the valve apart to make sure that it is working
3. Leak through soleniod valve.
Now need to determine which of the second options is most likely and how to fix it.
BUT looks great with the new paint job. Away on work at the moment but will post pictures soon.
The finished machine. Note the nice shiny base. It came up really well.
Managed to stop it filling too much just by adjusting the manual valve.
One side of the boiler that isnt insulated since there are too many connections on this side. May add some insulation in the future.