Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Servicing/assembly advice for choked Bezzera BZ40R please

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    5

    Smile Servicing/assembly advice for choked Bezzera BZ40R please

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hi All
    I am a new member for this group, and like most of you I have made way down that slippery path where is no turning back. It's great coffee or nothing at all, life is to short to drink bad coffee.
    So after cutting my teeth on a Silvia, I had the opportunity to buy a ex-cafe Bezzera BZ40R for next to nothing. So why wouldn't you?

    It was working when I brought it home, but had been sitting in a back shed for a year before I rescued it. So I have pulled it apart and could not believe my eyes when I finally got it open. There was literally two cupped hand fulls of crud that came out of it, and this was a machine that had been in full service till it's retirement. I will post some photo's when I can work out how to do that, they will blow you away considering that it was a working cafe it came from.

    I have the boiler soaking at the moment as well as the pipe work, but the inside is covered with that think black armor plating which will take time to remove.
    Excuse me for going on, but what I would like some advice on is the procedure for putting it back together. i,e, do I need to put any sealant on the element casket's, pressure safety valve or any of the others?
    As I did notice some crust on a few threads to the boiler, I was going to get some Loxeal 18-10 thread sealant from Reece for them which is for potable water and can handle the temp Ok I believe
    Any other tips would be much appreciated as well.
    This is a great site, and has saved me a bit of frustration and time, with information from those that have gone before.

    Cheers

    Thanks All!

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    302
    Google search ' Brendogs' and bezzera bz35
    He did a full strtip / repair which will prob give you all the
    Info you need
    Good luck
    Pls post pics and your own rebuild story

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    5
    Thank you very much for the heads up!

    I have never been apart of a forum before and it is a bit daunting, like a new kid in a play ground.
    I did find the rebuild site thank you, and tho it didn't tell me exactly what he used and where. I did see a tube of Loctite 567 in one of the photos which is a thread sealant just for this type of application, so it will not hurt to use it on all the threaded joints as it can be used for portable water applications as well. I will try to post some photos of what I found in the boiler that I took next, and give you some info on how I removed the elements from the boiler.
    Thanks again for your help!
    Cheers

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    5
    Just an update on how things are going. The boiler and heat exchanger is still soaking after 4 days with about 90% of the scale gone. The tubing and elements have come up alright after 3 days of soaking and chipping away the scale around the base of the elements. I have been using a citrus cleaner called Citranox. It contains no phosphates and is biodegradable, for removing scale, metal oxides and a range of other things. It is very concentrated and you see the results straight away. It is used in cleaning Dairy equip, lab stills, pharmaceutical apparatus and the like.
    I have sand blasted small areas of the metal frame, as it had rust developing on the face of the frame quite badly( behind the stainless face plate ) and was scaling off in sheets, and the air vents on the floor of the housing. I believe this has been directly caused by cleaning agents splashing back from the OPV opening, which is located on the right side where the worst of the rust scale was located. I scuffed the rest of the frame up a little to key in the new coat of paint, and sprayed it with epoxy spray paint. This will give it a none porous surface to help protect it from chemical attack. I will also redesign the out let to stop or reduce the splashing from the overflow. The height of the splash tray is another reason why it can get over and hit the frame.
    Will try and chase up some parts tomorrow hopefully, it is getting close now to assembly time. Just the last of the scale to go.

  5. #5
    Senior Member brettreaby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    267
    pictures tell a thousand words.... you did promise.
    ( vested interest: i have a bz35 which i may pull down in the future )



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •