Results 1 to 46 of 46
Like Tree67Likes
  • 3 Post By level3ninja
  • 4 Post By herzog
  • 1 Post By herzog
  • 1 Post By greenman
  • 1 Post By WindAddict
  • 7 Post By Dimal
  • 1 Post By 338
  • 2 Post By Yelta
  • 9 Post By level3ninja
  • 7 Post By CafeLotta
  • 7 Post By Yelta
  • 8 Post By noidle22
  • 3 Post By Caffeinator
  • 3 Post By chokkidog
  • 3 Post By Dimal
  • 4 Post By CafeLotta
  • 1 Post By level3ninja
  • 2 Post By Javaphile

Thread: Profitec Pro 700 - simultaneous heating

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13

    Profitec Pro 700 - simultaneous heating

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hi All

    splashed out and shouted my wife and I a Profitec Pro 700 a couple of months ago. Nice machine that looks to be very well constructed inside. Pulls some very nice shots, even with a relative newbie at the helm. But I have been very disappointed with the steaming ability, especially when trying to texture milk at the same time as pulling a shot, pressure will often drop to nearly 0.5 bar pressure making keeping a decent roll on the milk very difficult. I have had the machine back to the supplier here in NZ and they have tested it beside a new machine and said it is performing the same, disappointing.
    So anyway I would like to try running it in the simultaneous heating mode (luckily still available on NZ machines) to see how it performs then. All the reading I have done suggests that I will need a 15amp circuit to do this safely. But although Iím no electrician I understand some basics and by my calculations amps=watts/volts which would mean 2600w heating/240 volts = 10.8 amps, therefore a standard circuit would suffice ?
    I also have the Pro 700 connected to a TP-link HS110 smart wifi switch which has a stated 10amp max, but I imagine this has a little head room and should also have overdraw protection that would mitigate any risk to over draw on the circuit ?

    Thanks for any advice.

  2. #2
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,388
    You're basically right but the GPO is 10A max too. Depending on the actual voltage available at the outlet it may be higher than 10.8A.
    I wouldn't count on the wifi switch lasting a long time, or even at all. Worst case of it causes a for and the insurance company finds out they won't pay. I would strongly recommend not using the wifi switch at all with this set up and only ever have the machine on when you are in the same room and will be home (and awake) for 4 hours after turning the machine off at the GPO. If this solves your steaming issues and you want to leave it like that get an electrician to put a 15A GPO in for you. Don't use the wifi switch on the 15A setup.
    Dimal, chokkidog and 338 like this.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    11
    Perhaps look into the steam upgrade kit that was released recently. Takes the pressure up to 2Bar. I have a feeling it was only Pro 700's that were built late 2018 had this, so yours may have been an older build. There's a fair bit of info on the home barista forums. https://clivecoffee.com/products/pro...-valve-upgrade
    Last edited by Javaphile; 16th February 2019 at 12:27 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Bathurst
    Posts
    1,112
    An extra $200 USD to upgrade an near $4k machine to perform the way it should have been expected to originally? Wow.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Thanks for the reply’s.
    Think trying the upgrade PID sounds like the easiest route so I can keep using the WIFI switch. Just a bumper having to invest more money in an already expensive machine, especially since I mostly drink espresso, have to keep the misses happy with her lattes though ��

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    721
    My previous machine was a Profitec Pro 700 and I experienced no issues with simultaneous steaming and extraction. Your experience doesnít sound kosher... Iím disappointed with the supplier!

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    721
    Thinking more on this it makes no sense why pulling a shot should make any difference to steam pressure. There are two boilers, the brew boiler drives brew water through the group head using the rotary pump whereas the steam boiler is only driven by the pressure cooker effect with pressure exceeding notmal atmospheric pressure.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    251
    Also be aware that here in Australia, the upgraded PID for higher steam temps, does NOT have the ability to heat both boilers at the same time. Not sure why they removed it, but worth checking if its something you intend doing in the future .
    This is on the ECM Synchronika , (different brand, almost same machine internally) .
    To me it sounds like there are other issues, never had a problem with the steam power on standard Pro700 or Synchronika

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SYD
    Posts
    554

    Profitec Pro 700 - simultaneous heating

    Quote Originally Posted by kofekitt View Post
    To me it sounds like there are other issues, never had a problem with the steam power on standard Pro700 or Synchronika
    Agreed, the standard Pro700 that has been on the market for 4-5 years is a strong steamer.

    The late 2018 revision is of course even more powerful, but the user shouldnít be seeing these issues with the original model either.

    Thereís either something wrong with this particular unit or the method of operation.

    OP: can you describe the sequence in which you are using the machine.

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by kwantfm View Post
    Thinking more on this it makes no sense why pulling a shot should make any difference to steam pressure. There are two boilers, the brew boiler drives brew water through the group head using the rotary pump whereas the steam boiler is only driven by the pressure cooker effect with pressure exceeding notmal atmospheric pressure.
    The reason that pulling a shot at the same time makes a difference is because when the brew boiler drops in temp as the shot is pulled it then takes priority on reheating, which means the steam boiler heater element is not in use for the time the shot is pulled and the reheating of the brew boiler takes place, allowing the steam boiler temp and therefore pressure to drop off. At least this is the case with the machine in the low current draw mode, as it sounds like is enforced on the AU models and as the machine is supplied here in NZ. Yes I can switch it to simultaneous heating, high current draw mode but I will need to upgrade to a 15amp socket/circuit.

  11. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by herzog View Post
    Agreed, the standard Pro700 that has been on the market for 4-5 years is a strong steamer.

    The late 2018 revision is of course even more powerful, but the user shouldn’t be seeing these issues with the original model either.

    There’s either something wrong with this particular unit or the method of operation.

    OP: can you describe the sequence in which you are using the machine.
    My sequence is as follows

    warm 1 cup with water from water wand until steam boiler gets a small top up from pump to minimise risk of refill during steaming
    warm other cup with water through grouphead and basket to even some temps out
    grind, distribute, tamp coffee, by then the boilers are back up to temp
    pull first double shot 27-30 seconds
    rinse filter under brew group, wipe clean, dry and then repeat grind, distribute, tamp
    check brew boiler is back up to temp
    purge condensation from steam wand
    start second cups shot and then immediately start stretching milk
    stop shot at 27-30 seconds, milk stretch at about 30deg C max then heat to 60deg C , that’s where me and the missus like it.

    By the time I am finishing the steaming the steam boiler will often be down between 0.5 bar and 0.7 bar, which makes it hard to keep a good roll on for nice micro foam integration.

    please let me know if any of these steps are causing the low pressure issue. Other than having to steam either side of pulling the shot as to me that is not an answer on a high end double boiler machine. My previous Breville DB was a better steamer, but the Pro 700 is far better at espresso.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SYD
    Posts
    554

    Profitec Pro 700 - simultaneous heating

    Quote Originally Posted by WindAddict View Post
    My sequence is as follows

    warm 1 cup with water from water wand until steam boiler gets a small top up from pump to minimise ri
    There it is. Thatís what I was thinking you would say.

    This is very likely to be the issue. Pulling water from the water wand to the point that it triggers a top up is absolutely kryptonite for boiler pressure.

    The water coming into the boiler is cold and just kills it.


    If youíre going to do this before steaming, you should wait 2-3 minutes for the boiler to properly recover.
    Last edited by herzog; 18th February 2019 at 07:46 AM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SYD
    Posts
    554
    Try this as an experiment:

    With your machine having been fully heated for some time, without doing anything else, just perform the steaming process.

    Your initial steam boiler temp should be reading around 126C before you start.

    If this works ok and you can keep a roll on with a half full 600ML jug, then thatís how your machine should be working.


    If that still fails then you have got something wrong with your machine.

    Note you donít need to waste milk to do this test. Just use water with a drop of dishwashing liquid, as it behaves the same and is a great way to practice or simulate without wastage.
    Dimal likes this.

  14. #14
    Senior Member greenman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Posts
    3,156
    Quote Originally Posted by herzog View Post
    Try this as an experiment:

    With your machine having been fully heated for some time, without doing anything else, just perform the steaming process.

    Your initial steam boiler temp should be reading around 126C before you start.

    If this works ok and you can keep a roll on with a half full 600ML jug, then thatís how your machine should be working.


    If that still fails then you have got something wrong with your machine.

    Note you donít need to waste milk to do this test. Just use water with a drop of dishwashing liquid, as it behaves the same and is a great way to practice or simulate without wastage.
    I have had no issues with my Pro 700 steaming capability, it handles busy family functions with ease!
    Brewster likes this.

  15. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by herzog View Post
    There it is. Thatís what I was thinking you would say.

    This is very likely to be the issue. Pulling water from the water wand to the point that it triggers a top up is absolutely kryptonite for boiler pressure.

    The water coming into the boiler is cold and just kills it.


    If youíre going to do this before steaming, you should wait 2-3 minutes for the boiler to properly recover.
    Sorry my process description was a little lacking. I use the water wand to warm cups as soon as I get up in the morning and usually donít start my shot pulling for about 15min after that. So the boiler has recovered well.
    Machine is going back in on Thursday for another check over.

    Thanks for suggestions though.
    Dimal likes this.

  16. #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    12
    Sorry to hear you are having such problems mate.

    Are you running it off the water tank or is it plumbed in?

  17. #17
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    12
    +1 to not use Wifi switch unless rated for wattage.

    I have used A Wemo for 18 months plus here in Oz on the 10Amp Pro 700 flawlessly.

  18. #18
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by jas_coffee View Post
    Sorry to hear you are having such problems mate.

    Are you running it off the water tank or is it plumbed in?
    Plumbed in , but regulated to 2 bar as per factory instructions.

    Would have have liked to get the Wemo as itís got a slightly higher amp rating than the TP-Link but it would appear that theyíre not making the 240v ones anymore.

  19. #19
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    17
    I have this same concern a couple of years ago when I first bought my 700. Initial startup time was a bit sluggish and recovery time was slower than I would have liked. The main drawback though was not being able to Steam and pull shots at the same time which is a main reason for having a dual boiler.

    I initially raised the issue a couple of years back on this thread https://coffeesnobs.com.au/brewing-e...pressions.html

    After changing the PID, I was running the machine on a 15a line for about 6 months before an electrician doing a seperate job assured me that a standard 10a outlet had more than enough overhead to handle the machine running both elements at once. We looked over the specs on the outlet, ran the machine and no problem. I double checked it with another electrician and have been running it on a 10a output for the last 1.5 years.

    I highly recommend the "15a" setting. The machine can pull shots and steam all day with no downtime or loss of pressure (the way the machine was intended to run)

    EDIT: a quick note on the Wi-Fi switch. I was running a 10 amp timer switch for about a year before it crapped out. Electrician said it wasn't made to as high spec as the outlet and would eventually give out and the worst that would happen would be it would just stop working (ie. no fires or explosion possible). I suggest you ask a professional and likely get a second opinion regarding the electrical side of things.
    Last edited by enricomanchez; 27th February 2019 at 10:39 AM.

  20. #20
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Warwick, QLD
    Posts
    16,698
    before an electrician doing a seperate job assured me that a standard 10a outlet had more than enough overhead to handle the machine running both elements at once. We looked over the specs on the outlet, ran the machine and no problem. I double checked it with another electrician and have been running it on a 10a output for the last 1.5 years.
    Can not be recommended by any qualified person here I can assure you.
    It may not cause a problem in the short term but in the long run it may lead to insulation deterioration and then be at risk of causing a fire.
    Just NOT worth it...

    Mal.

  21. #21
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimal View Post
    Can not be recommended by any qualified person here I can assure you.
    It may not cause a problem in the short term but in the long run it may lead to insulation deterioration and then be at risk of causing a fire.
    Just NOT worth it...

    Mal.
    Unless you're a licensed electrician, your advice on electrical matters isn't useful. I had two seperate electricians advise me based on my conditions. I suggest OP does the same rather than listening to anyone in this thread.

    On the matter of constant steam pressure and stable brew temp. I can assure you that the upgrade to simultaneous heating is a worthy one. If your electrician recommends a 15a line based on your conditions, I'd recommend paying to have it installed.

  22. #22
    338
    338 is online now
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    732
    Quote Originally Posted by enricomanchez View Post
    Unless you're a licensed electrician, your advice on electrical matters isn't useful. I had two seperate electricians advise me based on my conditions. I suggest OP does the same rather than listening to anyone in this thread.
    Very precise definition of who to listen to! As I understand Mail is an electrical engineer. I am not an english teacher but I believe separate is spelt with an a as a fourth letter - and I would be right.

    Separately, congratulations on putting forward a simple solution, which seems easy to implement. As you are aware the op is in NZ, I am not sure if they use the same variance ( +10%, -6%) as us on their 230v. As it seems switching to 15amp mode solves the problem, I would test while watching the machine, if that works just put the circuit in. Small cost to have machine working as you would want, combined with peace of mind.
    kofekitt likes this.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Moonta SA.
    Posts
    6,820
    Quote Originally Posted by enricomanchez View Post
    Unless you're a licensed electrician, your advice on electrical matters isn't useful. I had two seperate electricians advise me based on my conditions. I suggest OP does the same rather than listening to anyone in this thread.
    Suggest you check Mals profile, you will find he is an electrical engineer.

    Just had a look at yours, certainly didn't have to spend much time reading.
    deegee and Caffeinator like this.

  24. #24
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    Suggest you check Mals profile, you will find he is an electrical engineer.
    Not sure who he is, but as far as I know electrical engineer ≠ licensed electrician.

    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    Just had a look at yours, certainly didn't have to spend much time reading.
    Indeed, which is why I hired a licensed electrician and would encourage OP to do the same.

    @WindAddict
    I'd recommend changing the 4 hole steaming tip for a 3 or lower. Even at full 1.4 bar pressure (I'm assuming you don't have the 2.0 upgrade), the default nozzle doesn't deliver enough pressure with the supplied tip. I use a 1 hole tip and it's often a little too strong, a 3-2 would be my suggestion.

    Another neat change you can do to improve your milk on the 700 is to remove the plastic inside the steaming wand. I've found when the wand runs much hotter it improves the milk. It should be noted that the plastic insert is to stop the wand getting too hot so you can hold it while steaming, something I don't find useful. You can pop the plastic part back in if you change your mind.

  25. #25
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,388
    Quote Originally Posted by enricomanchez View Post
    Not sure who he is, but as far as I know electrical engineer ≠ licensed electrician.
    I'm a licensed electrician in NSW, you can read my advice above in post #2, which 338 has summarised nicely in post #22.

    Also, in my professional opinion Mal knows what he's talking about. Not only that but he's qualified to give advice on loading and circuit sizes. You're correct in saying an electrical engineer and a licenced electrician are different, Mal is not licenced to install a 15A power point for you, but he can tell you it needs to be installed (just like I can).

    P.S. see if you can get your licenced electrician to give you the same advice they gave you above in writing. It will help with getting the insurance company to pay in the event of a fire.

  26. #26
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Aust.
    Posts
    1,033
    Quote Originally Posted by enricomanchez View Post
    Not sure who he is, but as far as I know electrical engineer ≠ licensed electrician.


    Aside from your insulting tone, your ignorance in commenting on potentially dangerous practices is worse. Maybe less arrogance would be a good start when dealing with long term and respected site members.
    Dimal, chokkidog, Yelta and 4 others like this.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Moonta SA.
    Posts
    6,820
    Quote Originally Posted by CafeLotta View Post


    Aside from your insulting tone, your ignorance in commenting on potentially dangerous practices is worse. Maybe less arrogance would be a good start when dealing with long term and respected site members.
    Amen to that.

    Mal is a knowledgeable and helpful member of the Coffee Snobs community, always willing to go the extra mile to help solve an issue.

    Respect.jpg

  28. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Bathurst
    Posts
    1,112
    Quote Originally Posted by enricomanchez View Post
    ......an electrician doing a seperate job assured me that a standard 10a outlet had more than enough overhead to handle the machine running both elements at once
    The 700 has a 1200W coffee boiler element and a 1400W steam boiler element.

    1200W + 1400W = 2600W

    Your 10A outlet can safely deliver a maximum of 2400W, which is a 10A draw. 2600W is 10.8A. Add to that the motor to run the rotary pump which draws around 100W (i'm assuming, full size motors in commercial machines pull around 200-300W and the motor in the 700 is a smaller one) then you're well over a full 10A loading.

    If your electrician said that the machine can operate both elements at once with still room to spare, I would highly suggest using a different electrician for any future work.
    Dimal, greenman, Javaphile and 5 others like this.

  29. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    154
    Quote Originally Posted by CafeLotta View Post


    Aside from your insulting tone, your ignorance in commenting on potentially dangerous practices is worse. Maybe less arrogance would be a good start when dealing with long term and respected site members.
    Agreed. I have always been of the opinion that PM is the most appropriate medium for those intent on delivery of insults. I'll take one Mal over 100 dodgy sparkies any day.
    greenman, chokkidog and CafeLotta like this.

  30. #30
    Senior Member chokkidog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,095
    Quote Originally Posted by enricomanchez View Post
    I suggest OP does the same rather than listening to anyone in this thread.
    Hmmm..... gotcha.
    Yelta, CafeLotta and 338 like this.

  31. #31
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Warwick, QLD
    Posts
    16,698
    Don't think anything else needs be said...

    Mal.
    Brewster, chokkidog and CafeLotta like this.

  32. #32
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Aust.
    Posts
    1,033
    Quite liked this one.


    OHM.jpg

  33. #33
    Member Morgz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by WindAddict View Post
    Plumbed in , but regulated to 2 bar as per factory instructions.

    Would have have liked to get the Wemo as itís got a slightly higher amp rating than the TP-Link but it would appear that theyíre not making the 240v ones anymore.
    Trust me, you don't want Wemo now that Belkin have deserted it. I have two Wemo LED bulbs and they drive me nuts. The TP-Link switch on Alex is fine however...

  34. #34
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Here’s an update.

    Machine has been back to supplier and had a 1.5 upgrade !
    It can now run at the higher steam temp and therefore pressure of about 2bar at start of steaming but due to an incorrectly supplied PID it cannot currently run in dual heating mode. This will be updated at my first service in a few months time.

    The increased steam pressure is awesome, I can now produce the quality micro foam I was looking for. But in brew boiler priority mode the recovery when making a number of milk based drinks is a bit slow. So still keen on running in dual heater mode as in my opinion a dual boiler machine should.

    The supplier has a nice setup that can measure the load on the circuit that the machine is plugged into. So when it gets its upgrade I will have them test the true max load when heating up in dual heater mode with the pump running. This will be the safest way to determine if a 15amp circuit upgrade will be necessary and I guess I will then have to address the importance of the wifi plug to me.

  35. #35
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,388
    If your electrician installs a dedicated circuit for the 15A outlet there's a number of options to control it. You can even have a set up where a normal WiFi switch can make it switch.
    Dimal likes this.

  36. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    251
    I'm curious about the "incorrectly supplied" PID , as that is how the AU market upgrade PIDS are supplied (not able to heat both boilers)

    Have you been told this is something Profitec/ECM intend to change and offer on future PIDS? Will it be a new unit, or can your new version PID be flashed or upgraded to offer this feature? It will be handy to know for owners who are put off the upgrade by the loss of dual heating

  37. #37
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    If your electrician installs a dedicated circuit for the 15A outlet there's a number of options to control it. You can even have a set up where a normal WiFi switch can make it switch.
    Oh really. That sounds awesome. Can you elaborate at all so I can point my sparkie in the right direction. Heís a little on the old school side so might not be aware of this new wifi kit 🙂

  38. #38
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by kofekitt View Post
    I'm curious about the "incorrectly supplied" PID , as that is how the AU market upgrade PIDS are supplied (not able to heat both boilers)

    Have you been told this is something Profitec/ECM intend to change and offer on future PIDS? Will it be a new unit, or can your new version PID be flashed or upgraded to offer this feature? It will be handy to know for owners who are put off the upgrade by the loss of dual heating
    Not really sure what the difference was but think it was a PID for a different model as he mentioned something about how the timer was working wrong so robbed the PID out of his demo Pro600 for me to get the higher pressure feature.
    My previous V1 PID could be run in dual heater mode as this is not locked out here in NZ. You could try contacting him to see if he’ll sell the new V2 PID configured to be able to run in dual heating mode to you in Australia seen as we run the same voltage. Would be easy to ship from NZ to Australia.
    Chris Uren

    p.s. The extra pressure from the V2 PID is awesome. Such a good roll achieved.
    Last edited by Javaphile; 9th March 2019 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Commercial link removed

  39. #39
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,388
    Quote Originally Posted by WindAddict View Post
    Oh really. That sounds awesome. Can you elaborate at all so I can point my sparkie in the right direction. Heís a little on the old school side so might not be aware of this new wifi kit 
    Depends how you want to do it. Simplest way is to have your choice of 10A rated WiFi switch to switch a contactor. The contactor will be rated at at least the circuit breaker rating or more. You then hook the contactor 240VAC coil to a 10A 3 pin plug (if your chosen WiFi switch takes plugs) or can wire it directly to the WiFi switch if it has terminals. Ideally this would be all mounted in your switchboard (need to check WiFi reception inside your switchboard first though), or could be mounted in the roof directly above where the power point (or other nearby place), though this makes maintenance more tricky. A contactor needs to be mounted in an enclosure of some kind (switchboard or is own junction box, if it's own box get one with a clear lid so you can see if it's pulled in our not without opening it). Mounting it closer to the power point would mean if your electrician decided your particular situation didn't require a dedicated circuit you wouldn't need one (dedicated circuits are almost always a very good idea, however the 2007 edition of AS3000 changed this requirement from being required 100% of the time to most of the time). For longevity I would recommend a 3 pole motor rated contactor. You then take the active and loop it through all 3 poles so that each pole is only switching 1/3 of the load.

    There may be other WiFi switches rated at 15A, I haven't looked into it. With a contractor you can use whatever type of WiFi switch you like, as the contactor coil will be way, way under 1 amp.

    I assume your electrician will be familiar with contractors etc but feel free to shoot me a PM if you want any more info. Something like a Sprecher + Schuh CA71610240VAC will do nicely.

  40. #40
    Super Moderator Javaphile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Earth!
    Posts
    15,471
    If you're interested here's a bit of a discussion about contactors from a few years back: https://coffeesnobs.com.au/brewing-e...aced-ssrs.html


    Java "Burnt what?" phile
    Dimal and level3ninja like this.
    Toys! I must have new toys!!!

  41. #41
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Depends how you want to do it. Simplest way is to have your choice of 10A rated WiFi switch to switch a contactor. The contactor will be rated at at least the circuit breaker rating or more. You then hook the contactor 240VAC coil to a 10A 3 pin plug (if your chosen WiFi switch takes plugs) or can wire it directly to the WiFi switch if it has terminals. Ideally this would be all mounted in your switchboard (need to check WiFi reception inside your switchboard first though), or could be mounted in the roof directly above where the power point (or other nearby place), though this makes maintenance more tricky. A contactor needs to be mounted in an enclosure of some kind (switchboard or is own junction box, if it's own box get one with a clear lid so you can see if it's pulled in our not without opening it). Mounting it closer to the power point would mean if your electrician decided your particular situation didn't require a dedicated circuit you wouldn't need one (dedicated circuits are almost always a very good idea, however the 2007 edition of AS3000 changed this requirement from being required 100% of the time to most of the time). For longevity I would recommend a 3 pole motor rated contactor. You then take the active and loop it through all 3 poles so that each pole is only switching 1/3 of the load.

    There may be other WiFi switches rated at 15A, I haven't looked into it. With a contractor you can use whatever type of WiFi switch you like, as the contactor coil will be way, way under 1 amp.

    I assume your electrician will be familiar with contractors etc but feel free to shoot me a PM if you want any more info. Something like a Sprecher + Schuh CA71610240VAC will do nicely.
    Thanks for the description. Much appreciated. Totally understand what your suggesting as I used to muck around with high powered car stereos back in the day and we had to use similar setups to control high draw amps etc.

  42. #42
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    54
    Please let us know if you managed to get PID-upgraded Pro 700 to heat both boiler simultanioulsly.

  43. #43
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by gerbi View Post
    Please let us know if you managed to get PID-upgraded Pro 700 to heat both boiler simultanioulsly.
    Hi

    No unfortunately after the machine had gone back for a fourth time only to be returned with a scratched front panel and a pid controller that still could not do dual heating both myself and the supplier were a bit over the whole thing and had a small falling out over the lack of care taken with my new machine due to the scratches which are in a very difficult area to polish out.
    I am pretty happy with where it is at with the extra steam pressure though.

  44. #44
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    54
    So...
    Correct me if I am wrong...
    The choice is either old PID with lower steam pressure but simultaneous boiler heating or new PID with 2 bar pressure and single boiler at a time heating.
    Right?

  45. #45
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by gerbi View Post
    So...
    Correct me if I am wrong...
    The choice is either old PID with lower steam pressure but simultaneous boiler heating or new PID with 2 bar pressure and single boiler at a time heating.
    Right?
    Yes, thatís my options at the moment and I went with the 2 bar pressure, single boiler at a time option.

  46. #46
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by WindAddict View Post
    Yes, that’s my options at the moment and I went with the 2 bar pressure, single boiler at a time option.
    Appreciate the info. Could you run me through your process with the single boiler at a time option?



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •