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Thread: Profitec Pro 600 maintenance information

  1. #1
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Profitec Pro 600 maintenance information

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hey guys,

    Been a while! Anyway was wondering if anyone was able to share somewhere I could get some access to maintenance guides for the Profitec Pro600. I've found the Whole Latte Love guide and it's very very good broken down into obvious parts.

    I was wondering if there was any other guides out there. One issue I'm trying to fix currently is the machine is brand new and I've just done the first chem flush on it after a month and the brew lever is stiff. Many e61 seem to have this issue. I was interested to know how to get into the brew lever for some lube.

    Cheers guys

  2. #2
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Morning Thirteen, the Pro 600 uses an E61 group head, whilst they do vary a little the basics are similar.

    Here's are a couple of illustrations that may help, the cam, valve pins and shaft are the areas that need lube, you can access them by removing the handle, then the shaft assembly nut and finally remove the body that the shaft rotates in from the group head, this will give you access to the area's you need to lubricate.

    Take note of how everything comes apart, they can be a bit fiddly to put back together.

    I use Innox as a lube however I suspect any quality food grade lubricant will do the job, good luck.
    E61 group.jpeg
    E61__2.jpg

  3. #3
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Thanks the reply. Good diagram too.

    Ive never disassembled any machine like this so im going in blind so excuse my ignorance.

    So by going off what you've mentioned, to get to the parts I need it all comes out of the brew lever side. I see there is a flat tip nut on the end of the brew lever. Then another larger body style but holding the brew lever shaft. I assume once that's out you can get to the cam and get greasy.

    Cheers

  4. #4
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Like this: https://clivecoffee.zendesk.com/hc/e...am-Lubrication

    Maybe i should have just googled it first!

    As per that little write up. Is it just the face of the cam that needs a little grease?

    Thanks
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Yep, looks good, make sure you use clean tools that fit well, don't want to mar the finish, and remember to note the position of the cam for reassembly.

    You can also gain limited access to the cam by removing the mushroom, spring and valve and applying a dab of lube with a satay stick or similar, not as effective but I have done it, gravity and migration tend to spread the lube.

  6. #6
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    Eeek, lots of pristine shiny surfaces and tools.

    I've gone so far as wrapping my spanners in electrical tape to make sure nothing gets damaged

    I'm getting a twitch just thinking about it.

    Good luck

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    Yep, looks good, make sure you use clean tools that fit well, don't want to mar the finish, and remember to note the position of the cam for reassembly.

    You can also gain limited access to the cam by removing the mushroom, spring and valve and applying a dab of lube with a satay stick or similar, not as effective but I have done it, gravity and migration tend to spread the lube.
    Yes the cam position is a good one! Probably should have noticed before i go tearing in. I didnt take the mushroom out and the camshaft was pretty tight in there. All makes sense though now.

    Judging from the image does the cam face follow same as your image? Cam face should be facing upwards most facing the front. Hence why your saying then mushroom valve out the top is advised? removes the pressure to reinsert under the pin?

    Don't be scared to get in with the tools lads, just dont be ham fisted with it. Everything isn't really very tight anyway, all easy to come off. If your tools are slipping your doing it wrong, using the wrong tools or turning it the wrong way.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Alright, quick trip to bunnings and thats all sorted. Hot tip they sell a 4 pack of shifters for $22. The largest in the pack will do the mushroom and the second largest will do the body nut.

    i just put some of the inox on the face of the cam. But even a dab on both sides of the shaft, cant have enough grease. Take top mushroom out to take off the spring pressure. Even little dab of grease on the cam that touches the pump switch on the outer body. She's back to super smooth now. Everyone should be doing this, takes 5 minutes if you've got all the bits handy.

    Pro600 and the T64 grinder are an awesome combo too. Works a treat!
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thirteen13 View Post
    Yes the cam position is a good one! Probably should have noticed before i go tearing in. I didnt take the mushroom out and the camshaft was pretty tight in there. All makes sense though now.

    Judging from the image does the cam face follow same as your image? Cam face should be facing upwards most facing the front. Hence why your saying then mushroom valve out the top is advised? removes the pressure to reinsert under the pin?

    Don't be scared to get in with the tools lads, just dont be ham fisted with it. Everything isn't really very tight anyway, all easy to come off. If your tools are slipping your doing it wrong, using the wrong tools or turning it the wrong way.
    Not saying lubing through mushroom advised, just a quick and easy way of getting some grease into the general area, pulling it apart is certainly more thorough.

    This video may help you reposition the cam, it can be tricky, that's why I advised to take note of the way it came apart, when the lever is in the off position the exhaust valve should be open and the brew valve closed, this video may help with reassembly, lets know when you get it right, DONT force anything, its either right or wrong.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    As our old mate Borat would say.
    Great success.jpg
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.

  12. #12
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thirteen13 View Post
    Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.
    Ah cool, thanks for this! I've been meaning to lube my brew lever (Pro 500)... am trying to understand this, do you just have to remove the brew lever? You don't remove the E61 group head right.. it's only the brew lever that's getting a bit stuck..

    Strangely, every time I do a chemical clean it actually unsticks it and makes it move smoother... then over time it gets back to being a bit stuck.

    Also have no idea what a cam cover, lobe or mushroom pellet is but I can look those up hehe, unless its obvious when I take the brew lever off that that's what needsa' greasin'!

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thirteen13 View Post
    Did another chem flush today & regreased. I found an easier way, but its a tad bit fiddley. Chem flush yet again stripped out the lube so had to be redone. What i did was take off the handle and the cam cover so the lobe is exposed, but rather than remove it and grease it up. Just got an icey pole stick, put a dab of grease on the end and there is enough space to put a dab on the mushroom pellet, so that when the lobe hits it, gets greased. Then on the movement face of the lobe for the lower pellet. Means nothing had to come out, took 2 minutes. It actually greased better this way than removing it. Could be i was more liberal with the grease this time, but feels great.
    It shouldnt be necessary to grease the cam after flushing. I use Cafetto and the process is five 10 second flushes followed by a rinse of the portafilter and 10 five second flushes. By about the 7th or 8th flush the stiffness or squeakiness should have gone
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  14. #14
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    A couple of sacrificial shots also assists after flushing out...
    The light coating of coffee oils left behind do a fine job.

    Mal.
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    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo1111 View Post
    It shouldnt be necessary to grease the cam after flushing. I use Cafetto and the process is five 10 second flushes followed by a rinse of the portafilter and 10 five second flushes. By about the 7th or 8th flush the stiffness or squeakiness should have gone
    Yeah i use the same stuff, but im finding the brew lever after a chem flush gets stiff and feels like solid metal on metal contact. The lever goes from a nice smooth motion to a rough, almost jerky movement. After a dab of paste its buttery smooth.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Thirteen13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    Ah cool, thanks for this! I've been meaning to lube my brew lever (Pro 500)... am trying to understand this, do you just have to remove the brew lever? You don't remove the E61 group head right.. it's only the brew lever that's getting a bit stuck..

    Strangely, every time I do a chemical clean it actually unsticks it and makes it move smoother... then over time it gets back to being a bit stuck.

    Also have no idea what a cam cover, lobe or mushroom pellet is but I can look those up hehe, unless its obvious when I take the brew lever off that that's what needsa' greasin'!

    Thanks
    If you feel confident and dive into it, it will all start to make sense what those pieces are. If you are firmiliar with what a cam lobe is (think on a cam shaft in an engine) this is what is opening the valves and what needs the grease to slide smoother, when it moves.
    The clip Yelta put up below shows it all perfectly.
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  17. #17
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Question Pro 600 detergent backflush

    OK, approaching two weeks of ownership of the Pro 600 and time for the first chemical backflush. What I find perplexing is the variation in advice on how to do a proper backflush.
    I use Cafetto Evo detergent which advises five 10 second intervals during the detergent phase ie 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off followed by ten cycles of 5sec/2second to rinse.
    When I used the original Cafetto, it advised 5 second intervals.
    Jetblack's warranty leaflet instructions advise 3 cycles of on for 5 secs/off for 30 secs which I'm guessing would follow the advice for the Clean Machine backflush detergent that it recommends.
    However the Pro 600 manual advises 20 seconds on and 30 seconds off, moving the brew lever to the mid-position between cycles. Profitec's advice goes like this:
    5. Operate the group lever for approx. 20 seconds. The blind filter will fill with water.
    6. Let the detergent react, moving the group lever into the middle position, approx. 45. (Do not move it into
    the lower position.)
    7. Move the lever into the lower position after approx. half a minute. This way, the fats and oils can be
    discharged by the infusion cylinder.
    8. Repeat points 5-7 until only clear water is discharged by the infusion cylinder.
    So which method is preferable? Commonsense suggests the EVO instructions but I wonder whether this applies to commercial machines rather than prosumer ones. I don't want to overdo it.
    I've never heard about using the brew lever mid-position before but a bit of reading on other forums indicates that others recommend this as well.

  18. #18
    Senior Member simonsk8r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynnaus View Post
    OK, approaching two weeks of ownership of the Pro 600 and time for the first chemical backflush. What I find perplexing is the variation in advice on how to do a proper backflush.
    I use Cafetto Evo detergent which advises five 10 second intervals during the detergent phase ie 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off followed by ten cycles of 5sec/2second to rinse.
    When I used the original Cafetto, it advised 5 second intervals.
    Jetblack's warranty leaflet instructions advise 3 cycles of on for 5 secs/off for 30 secs which I'm guessing would follow the advice for the Clean Machine backflush detergent that it recommends.
    However the Pro 600 manual advises 20 seconds on and 30 seconds off, moving the brew lever to the mid-position between cycles. Profitec's advice goes like this:
    5. Operate the group lever for approx. 20 seconds. The blind filter will fill with water.
    6. Let the detergent react, moving the group lever into the middle position, approx. 45. (Do not move it into
    the lower position.)
    7. Move the lever into the lower position after approx. half a minute. This way, the fats and oils can be
    discharged by the infusion cylinder.
    8. Repeat points 5-7 until only clear water is discharged by the infusion cylinder.
    So which method is preferable? Commonsense suggests the EVO instructions but I wonder whether this applies to commercial machines rather than prosumer ones. I don't want to overdo it.
    I've never heard about using the brew lever mid-position before but a bit of reading on other forums indicates that others recommend this as well.
    I've got a Pro 500 and yep I got the same JetBlack instructions and the others hehe. I've just been following the JetBlack instructions as it seems less generic and more specific to the machine and HX machines (although the method in the manual also does obviously...).

    But I've also been curious as to which instructions people follow and why....

    At work on our two-group we just follow the Cafetto instructions, so that may be more geared towards commercial machines like you said......
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  19. #19
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonsk8r View Post
    I've got a Pro 500 and yep I got the same JetBlack instructions and the others hehe. I've just been following the JetBlack instructions as it seems less generic and more specific to the machine and HX machines (although the method in the manual also does obviously...).

    But I've also been curious as to which instructions people follow and why....

    At work on our two-group we just follow the Cafetto instructions, so that may be more geared towards commercial machines like you said......
    Cheers for that. I reckon the Profitec instructions would be more likely to strip the valve lubrication than the other methods given the amount of time the detergent is in contact with components. I checked out the Clean Machine instructions and they are similar to the EVO ones (10 sec on/10 sec off). In fact, a quick Google shows that the 10 second brew cycle to circulate the detergent is quitec common but there is not much consensus on how long to wait between cycles.
    simonsk8r likes this.

  20. #20
    Mal Dimal's Avatar
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    I'd be going with JetBlack's instructions too Steve....
    Charlie knows what he's talking about.

    Mal.
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  21. #21
    Senior Member flynnaus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dimal View Post
    I'd be going with JetBlack's instructions too Steve....
    Charlie knows what he's talking about.

    Mal.
    Thanks Mal. Good suggestion.
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