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Thread: Trouble screwing in cam barrel (Bezzera Mitica TOP)

  1. #1
    JZ4
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    Trouble screwing in cam barrel (Bezzera Mitica TOP)

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hey guys,

    I had to take the cam out as it was squeaking really bad and was very stiff (metal on metal grinding)

    I put the lever in it's neutral 45degree angle, undid the lever, took the barrel out (via the closest biggest nut) took the cam barrel out all in one piece, lubed it up but now I can't for the life of me get it back in!

    If you look at the images it's like the 2 nuts inside the chamber are preventing me from putting it in?

    20191127_125215.jpg20191127_125345.jpg

  2. #2
    Senior Member noonar's Avatar
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    All looks good. The cam has to be in the correct position for easy re-insertion, even then it can be a wee bit fiddly, Youtube has some great E61 group and cam servicing tutorials that show correct position, the position of the "nuts" do give an indication. The squeaking may also be due to two dry rubber seals that are on the shaft of the cam inside the collar, take them out rotate them and lube may/should work - replacement may be a better option - assuming yours is the same type E61 as my Rocket and ex Domus Galatea.
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    Senior Member noonar's Avatar
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    JZ4
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    Thanks Noonar, I finally got the bastard in after many many choice words in the process

    It looks much easier to put it all back with the entire cam assembly taken apart as in the video you've posted. I may attempt to do it that way next time it's due for another lube up.

    But, it all seems to be all ok now. I did notice it felt like the spring inside the barrel was maybe rubbing or under some pressure when moving the lever after I re-assembled it all? It now seems much smoother after pulling a couple of shots and moving the lever up and down a number of times, no longer hearing like a grinding springy sound, but I will continue to keep an eye on it.
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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZ4 View Post
    Thanks Noonar, I finally got the bastard in after many many choice words in the process

    It looks much easier to put it all back with the entire cam assembly taken apart as in the video you've posted. I may attempt to do it that way next time it's due for another lube up.

    But, it all seems to be all ok now. I did notice it felt like the spring inside the barrel was maybe rubbing or under some pressure when moving the lever after I re-assembled it all? It now seems much smoother after pulling a couple of shots and moving the lever up and down a number of times, no longer hearing like a grinding springy sound, but I will continue to keep an eye on it.
    G'Day JZ4, a quick and easy way to lube the cam is to remove the mushroom assembly, spring valve the lot, you can see the cam down there if you look closely, you may need a torch, squeeze some lube onto the end of a long thin wooden satay skewer then carefully apply it to the cam, gravitation and migration will spread it around, its an easy fix.
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    JZ4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    G'Day JZ4, a quick and easy way to lube the cam is to remove the mushroom assembly, spring valve the lot, you can see the cam down there if you look closely, you may need a torch, squeeze some lube onto the end of a long thin wooden satay skewer then carefully apply it to the cam, gravitation and migration will spread it around, its an easy fix.
    That sounds even easier I had a laugh. I found another way too where a guy pushed the cam out of the barrel inserted the cam first then put it all together. I should have asked here first and probably saved myself a wasted hour an a half

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    JZ4
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    So the crunching spring sound is happening even more now. I lubed the cam part and it's smooth operation in that area but it feels like the spring in the middle of the barrel is maybe under more pressure than it should be hence it's got a crunchy spring noise upon lifting and lowering the lever. Video below.



    I circled the area (pictured below) that I think is the culprit but not 100% sure. I may need to disassemble the whole cam, lube up the middle area where the spring is and hope L0L.


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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZ4 View Post
    I may need to disassemble the whole cam, lube up the middle area where the spring is and hope L0L.
    Good idea, lube everything that moves/rotates, while your at it lube the cam again.
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  9. #9
    JZ4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yelta View Post
    Good idea, lube everything that moves/rotates, while your at it lube the cam again.

    Took your advice and managed to get it sounding as it did the day I got it

    Oddly enough the actual cam itself was dry as hell? Not sure why but I went a bit heavier on it this time around. The spring and the housing for it was bone dry and could see a single line across it. So lubed her all up and the 2 rubber washers while I was at it the outer portion of it anyhow.

    I just couldn't for the life of me push the cam completely out of it's barrel housing no matter how hard I tried so had to re-insert the cam with half the barrel still attached to it. So, the hard way again L0L

    Is the pushing the cam shaft out really that hard?


  10. #10
    Senior Member noidle22's Avatar
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    A lot of the levers and taps are either poorly or just not lubricated at all from the factory. This is fairly common across a lot of brands.

    The cam should not be that hard to remove. On worn out or damaged cams they can need some force to push out but they should never stick or jam. There could be some foreign material in there somewhere.

    Also, what are you using for lubricant? Some are better than others and some may cause squeaking and difficult movement only after a few days of use.
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    Most manufacturers of e-61 gear purchase complete groups, ready to roll.

    Ethical resellers bench test machines before they leave and they'd pick up a poorly lubricated leva. On the other hand, some outlets just pick up the carton and hope for the best. They will normally say something like "The importer bench tests for us" or "The manufacturer bench tests all their machines before shipment". Put simply, manufacturers are not necessarily that into coffee. They're into making money by selling machines. They don't have to worry about Joe Average too much either as that's the role of the retailer.

    When purchasers squeeze margins heavily, something will often give and preparation is a place where $$$ can be saved. Those who squeeze the hardest are all too frequently the ones who complain the loudest when everything is not at 110%.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZ4 View Post
    Took your advice and managed to get it sounding as it did the day I got it

    Oddly enough the actual cam itself was dry as hell? Not sure why but I went a bit heavier on it this time around. The spring and the housing for it was bone dry and could see a single line across it. So lubed her all up and the 2 rubber washers while I was at it the outer portion of it anyhow.

    I just couldn't for the life of me push the cam completely out of it's barrel housing no matter how hard I tried so had to re-insert the cam with half the barrel still attached to it. So, the hard way again L0L

    Is the pushing the cam shaft out really that hard?

    My old Rocket Premium Plus was really difficult to push back in far enough to get the thread to catch easily. No such problem on my Synchronika, very easy.

  13. #13
    JZ4
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    Quote Originally Posted by noidle22 View Post
    Also, what are you using for lubricant? Some are better than others and some may cause squeaking and difficult movement only after a few days of use.
    Just using INOX right now as it was easily/readily available. I am seeing Molykote 111 being recommended and used quite widely so I might go and get a tube of that next week instead. As long as there is something better that comes more recommended from CS'ers?

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    Senior Member Yelta's Avatar
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    Inox is fine, been using it for years.

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    Senior Member noidle22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZ4 View Post
    Just using INOX right now as it was easily/readily available. I am seeing Molykote 111 being recommended and used quite widely so I might go and get a tube of that next week instead. As long as there is something better that comes more recommended from CS'ers?
    I'd go with 111, it's what I use and most other industry technicians use on tap and lever assemblies. It's thicker than Inox and resists wear and washing off better than Inox does in my experience, particularly on high stress components such as the E61 lever which is under the stresses of pressure, high temperature and water.

    You can buy a big tube of it for about $30 and it'll last you a lifetime.
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