how does the coffee taste?
how long do you wait to remove the ghandle and look ?
Hi all this is my first post on this forum. I just got my Grinder its *the Mazzer Mini e. I have a 2010 Rancilio Silvia and i did a lot of reading before making the decision on getting this grinder. it was between the Macap M4D and the Mini e. But i was able to get this mini e for a good price. *Yep i am a stingy miserly man *:P
Anyway i have a question. After i pull a shot i remove the handle and i can see bit of water on top of puck. I tamp at 15kg pressure and it takes about 25 sec to pullshot for 60mls. i fill the basket just under shower screen.
So is there something i am missing is water on top an issue for a good shot. Thanks in advance.
how does the coffee taste?
how long do you wait to remove the ghandle and look ?
Hi i look about 30 seconds after a pull a shot. The coffee is a little burnt taste. i am filling basket up 3/4 then tapping it twice then moving coffee around fill in gaps then scrapping of top with striaght knife. Its a snug fit to get the portafilter hand 90 degress. if you know what i mean. thanks
The brew water may be to hot and burning the coffee as it passes through the puckOriginally Posted by 7E5241584640330 link=1291364688/2#2 date=1291371781
Try gronking silvia. Did it to old Lucy and youll be suprised at the different temps from element on to element off and a short time after. At least with it gronked you can temperature surf with a bit of consistancy to the temperature you want.
Takes a bit of time to figure out the best temp though, you have to wait for the element to kick in, top out the temperature, wait while the temperature slowly trickles down to your desired temperature. Lock and load and pull your shot. But if you like the results you can time it from the element coming on, and then just pull your shots at the desired time.
Silvia really deserves a PID stock standard. It would really improve the machine.
do the pucks come out well formed and dry or sloppy wet?
try grinding a little finer and tamp a little less hard maybe
what sort of beans you using ?
do a bit of reading about temp surfing the silvia, then develope a routine.
you have a very capable setup, sounds like some tweaking and your away. i would be more worried about the taste than the water on the puck.
Hi i have seen the video of pid on a machine youtube. He pulled the shot with pid off to show the temp flucuations of water. He then temparture surfed as you normally would on the silvia. The pid showed water was at l04 degrees when he pulled the shot is this is the boiler temp ?.
From what i have read the water temp drops by x degress as it comes out of grouphead.
My Next question is what is the correct water temp range for a good shot. and is that temp range the temperature of water at grouphead or in the boiler.
In the range of 89 to 92 deg Celsius at the groupheadOriginally Posted by 507C6F76686E1D0 link=1291364688/6#6 date=1291379208
You should wait for the the boiler indicator light to go off and then after 20-40 secs run water through the group for a few seconds and you should notice the Silvia hiss, with steam coming out of the group.
If your getting a burnt flavour you should try and correct that rather than worry bout the puck.
I find a lighter tamp works well rather than the 15kg pressure thing.
I have the same Silvia paired with the Sunbeam em0480. :(
Maybe we could swap grinders for a couple of weeks and I could collect some data on pucks. . . . :)
ryiodal thanks for the update i will try this method of temperature surfing.
Also i have been told that too much coffee in the portafilet basket will cause burnt taste. which may be the reason why water is sitting on top of puck when it take out portafilter basket after pulling a shot.
How about i send you some used pucks to looke at :P. jokes
I am getting better results with a lower dose, using synesso 18g ridgless basket.Originally Posted by 426E7D647A7C0F0 link=1291364689/10#10 date=1291419129
I only ever use my bottomless pf that I got from Coffee Parts. If you dont have one of these you should look into it because it is an invaluable tool in dose, tamp and distribution diagnosing. And it just awesome to watch a good shot come from one of these.
Yep i have one on the way its in the post. it was $170 all up for extra clip to hold the basket. Below is the email response from them My question was about filling synesso basket.
The Synesso basket will actually take about 20 grams when correctly
dosed. The extraction time does not vary with the size of basket or the
quantity of the grounds in that basket - it should always be 25-30
seconds for extraction.
However the grind size will vary - with a larger basket you will need a
slightly coarser grind - vary the grind size to maintain exactly the
same time - do not vary the time of the extraction.
Also i just pulled like 12 shots of coffee to work out why i am getting water ontop of puck. It now looks like water is in only on one side on puck which must be uneven tamping. Puck is nice and firm no residue in portafilter after extraction. Moreover i used your method of temp surfing coffee taste lot better. Even better if i eat a chocolate bizcuit first. :D
Sorry for jumping into this thread if its not appropriate, but today is my first day of proper use of the Silvia - so Im still trying to work it all out.
I should be shooting for a 25-30 second pour (60mL - double shot 18g basket). Im getting pretty close, but not quite there and am wonder which I should be tweaking.
I got a 10-15 second pour at grind X which was of course under extracted, and sour.
So wound up the grind a little bit and got close to a decent pour, except I had some water leak out around the edge of the portafilter around the 23 second mark. I assume that this would be because of either too fine of a grind or an over tamp?
I wound back the grind a tad and the tamp up a bit and got to a 20-22sec pour but Im not sure about the shot. It does not seem to be too bitter or sour, but has a "dead" zone mid palate so it starts good with some cerealyness, ends with just the right level of astringincy but the middle is hollow and none of the sweetness Im looking for. (As a wine drinker - think a typical mid range Cabernet Sauvignon profile, where it has not been blended w/ Merlot or Shiraz - you get a dash of the cassis up the front, then fades in flavour, then the tannins kick in)
Im pretty close, Im just looking for advice as to weather I should be messing with the tamp or the grind.
My pucks seem to have a few bits of swirlyness on top, the circle from the nut of the shower screen and for the more part plop out really easy and hold their shape - it appears to be fairly even in moistness, able to remove with hands (once cool) and keeps shape. Some of the later shots trying to push for the longer pour had a small amount of moisture just on one side (which I suspect is uneven tamping). These later shots were tricky as the slow steady pour (20sec/60mL) seemed to border the perfect pour rate with a leak of clear water around the edge of the grouphead/portafilter.
Can anyone supply some shots of their pucks before and after knocking out?
Hi Mallie here is a link on how to tamp and what puck should look like etc.
I use a method below for Tamping for rancilio recommend by pullmans who make tampers.
Shot time shoud take between 22 secs and 27 secs for 6omls or 30mls. Your better making the coffee grind courser and with the double basket that comes with rancilio that means you aim for 25 secs. Also once you have tamped and put in portafilter basket there should be an indent of the nut of shower screen. What i did was put the portafilter in and then removed it a looked at the puck to see the depth on nut. Coffe should sit just below shower screen.
After a shot there should be no residue in basket or water sitting on top of puck. See the link to first video for what it should look like.
blackrock: cheers for those links. Looks like Im pretty close, probably wind the grind a tad courser with a harder tamp. My pucks are looking pretty shiny, I just got to get that honey pour, closest I had dribbled a few drops of water over the portafiller, so suspect Im close.
The family are most happy with the quality of the coffees coming out thus far, and the steam from this machine - ooh la la, accidentally made one of those pipal leaf shapes latte art.
Loving the Silvia! :-*
Looks like you heading in the right direction mallie. Yep the honey pour thing was in the video. Water over the portafilter is your portafilter easy to insert into grouphead?
My family came around as well I had a laugh. Free coffee at my place. Thats what happens when you coffee is better than the local coffee shops.
One off the things i have considered is not to get to hung up the whole process. Most of the time i add water to make a flat white or milk for a latte. Sort hides the taste if i get it wrong. ;)
If you are getting water dribbling out over the top of the portafilter then it is not locked in properly. This could be inadequate muscle, grounds on the top of the sealing rim or lodged in the seal (up in the machine--needs a clean), or too high a dose causing the expanding coffee to push the portafilter down and away from the seal.
The large nut that holds the shower screen on the Silvia does cause some difficulty getting a dose that doesnt get injured as the handle locks in, and leaving a bit of water on top of the puck. Water on the puck (providing the coffee tastes right) is almost a non-issue.
Blackrock - Got one honey today but only out of one side of the portafiller, the other side was drop drop drop - 99% sure it was an uneven tamp, but just about the right grind and pretty good tamp on at least one side. The second coffee was an even tamp, but not hard enough and got about 80mL in 20 seconds - good thing it was for me - 80mL coffee, 60mL milk, 30mL foam - actually pretty close to my "ideal" coffee.
Greg - Im half tempted to think it was me being too soft on the machine (the old roma went from 8 oclock to 4 oclock) when it was demoed to me the handle was at 6 oclock, I think perhaps I just needed a tad more to the right.
Getting there over all - loving the machine, the end result is loved by the wife and by me so is a good thing. I just got to get over the paranoia of cooking the boiler every time I use some steam.
I can see a Mini Mazzer on next years Christmas list, and as soon as I find that jolly pop corn maker, it will be repurposed.
Some Silvia owners have replaced the standard shower screen screw with a smaller head screw which allows for a slighty larger dose without the harming the puck.Originally Posted by 714453516159445B575A52360 link=1291364689/17#17 date=1291466778
what size is the screw where do i get a replacement from. thanks
Dont know the size but if you do a search I know it has come up on this site before.
You could just take the original screw to a bolt place and they would probably have a suitable replacement. I took mine to bunnings but couldnt find the right size. I gave up pretty easy but will get round to it one day.
I might dig up that old thread myself, i think i recall someone saying it was one of the best mod things they did to their Silvia
I replaced the Frankenstein bolt in my silvia with a Pan-head 5mm stainless steel screw, but I didnt think it really made that *much difference.
I then did a proper job, countersunk 5mm stainless steel screw (I cut down and filed off a 25mm long screw to get it the correct length, about 15mm), countersink the water disperser under the shower screen, and press the screw into the shower-screen using a vice as a press and a socket *as mandrel.
The countersunk screw is the way to go, you can overload the basket without the Franken-bolt cracking the puck. There is a good thread on this so have a look, it is definitely worth doing.
PS. The screw should be finished nicely around where you cut it off so that you donít damage the thread in the group head, when you get the screw get a 5mm nut as well to try the screw in before you screw it into Silvia. The screw does not need to be very tight so donít over do it. On a good puck I get an imprint of the screw head with a small x in the middle from the pozidrive slot.
Just to repeat - Dont over-tighten. The Grouphead brass is very soft for one thing and the other thing is that successive heat/cool cycles will lock the screw into the Group and make it very difficult and sometimes near impossible to remove.
Just a heads-up ;)
Bean Bear i looked at the hex head bolt on the rancilio it looks like a meteric fine thread. I could only get this in a meteric standard thread from blackwoods stainless. Is the pic below simliar to the screw you fitted to your machine? Just dont want to use a standard screw in a fine thread whole as they have a different pitch
From the parts list its a M5x14 (although when I did my V1 Silvia I thought it was M5x12).
Its standard metric 5mm x 0.8mm pitch, the thread does not need to be as long as the standard bolt because you are countersinking the water disperser, and indenting the showerscreen. I always find it easier to cut some off a screw that is too long than lengthen one that is not long enough ;).Originally Posted by 0A26352C3234470 link=1291364689/24#24 date=1291592587
To check that your thread is the same pitch as the original, place the two threads against each other, if they mesh evenly they are the same.
Thanks its a SCREW MTS PAN PHIL SS304 METRIC 5X12MM. Listed online blackwoods web site.
If you are going to cut off a longer screw, then put the bolt on the screw before cutting. Unscrewing the bolt will ensure that the threads are even on the cut.
Me too, its harder to do but it actualy solves the problem.
Thanks for you advice i have ordered some and will give it a try. Might take some photos as well for the next person who wants to do this mod.
Just wondering how your mod is going.
Im interested in this too, but havent been able to find the M5x12mm countersunk screw/bolt in my local hardware stores yet. Might have to order from online also...
Hardware stores dont keep everythingOriginally Posted by 70757A6771140 link=1291364689/32#32 date=1293599666
Go to a specialist like bolts & industrial supplies (thats the shop I go to)
Take the old one with you to match up the thread but a countersunk head type in stainless steel
You will be surprised at how cheap it will be due in part because you only need one + one for a spare
Thanks KK, Ill certainly look into Bolts & Industrial Supplies.
And stay away from Self Drilling/Tapping ones correct?
Now you are talking & thinking like an engineer [smiley=thumbsup.gif]Originally Posted by 6B6E617C6A0F0 link=1291364689/34#34 date=1293600965