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Thread: Breville BES920 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

  1. #2501
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    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    They are. We live between two houses. In one house I mix my own water by adding 100mg/l of potassium bicarb to deionised water (no Cl, Mg, or Ca). In the other home I use what the coffee shops use... a softening system _specifically_ for espresso machines. It is an ion exchange softener with a carbon block to remove chlorine
    Figured you would, just thought it'd be worth checking and pointing out for anyone reading along at home
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Figured you would, just thought it'd be worth checking and pointing out for anyone reading along at home
    Still, very good of you to point it out anyway. People read this stuff we write and learn from it even if it's not the exact person you intended it for.

    Since I plumbed my BDB and am driving it with a rotary pump now, the filter system is particularly useful, because it's no longer fed from a tank that I can mix my own water into.

    -Peter

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    What grinder does everyone pair it with their BES920? I haven't got a grinder yet so I bought beans from Market Lane Coffee, asked them to grind it for me. On the day, the pressure managed to reached 9 bar, but I've noticed there were definitely more than 1:2 ratio within the cup. Today, did it again and the pressure was only 3 bar.

    I didn't know within a day the grounded beans would changed that quickly. Nonetheless, I am looking for a grinder that can pair well to do espresso on BES920 while can grind filter coffee grind size without issues.

    I believe Breville Smart Grinder Pro can do that but can something like Mazzer Super Jolly do that? Or even Rocky? Would love to hear everyone's thoughts on grinders.

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    I would expect aging of the ground coffee to make that sort of difference in about three to 12 months. Not a few days. Flavour loss yes, but not 9 bar to 3 bar. Make sure you are putting in the exact same amount of coffee by weighing it, and tamp it about the same, and it should be 100% repeatable.

    I use the same BES920 with a Niche Zero grinder, and I get a significant change in pressure if I use a setting of say 17 instead of 18, but I see a bigger change if I use 17.8g instead of 18.5g.

    As long as I measure exactly 18.5g every time and calibrate each type of bean, I get 100% repeatable results.

    I have never actually tried grinding beans and then waiting two days... the loss of flavour renders the pressure question moot.

  5. #2505
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    What grinder does everyone pair it with their BES920? I haven't got a grinder yet so I bought beans from Market Lane Coffee, asked them to grind it for me. On the day, the pressure managed to reached 9 bar, but I've noticed there were definitely more than 1:2 ratio within the cup. Today, did it again and the pressure was only 3 bar.

    I didn't know within a day the grounded beans would changed that quickly. Nonetheless, I am looking for a grinder that can pair well to do espresso on BES920 while can grind filter coffee grind size without issues.

    I believe Breville Smart Grinder Pro can do that but can something like Mazzer Super Jolly do that? Or even Rocky? Would love to hear everyone's thoughts on grinders.
    Getting a higher yield is indicative of the grind / dose not being quite right to start with. If it's already almost unusable it could fall off usability that quickly depending on how the ground coffee is stored. If you're using preground coffee you need to use the dual wall baskets (also called pressurised baskets) or you'll continue to have these sorts of issues.

    The Breville BCG820 is surprisingly ok at grinding filter coffee, its performance at the espresso end is passable at best. The numbers on the dial make switching back and forth easy and accurate. I originally got my BES920 with a BCG820 but have since upgraded to a Eureka Atom. I still use the BCG820 for cold brew, aeropress, plunger, decaf etc. The Atom is much better at espresso but can't be switched back and forth easily. Depending on your budget something like the Niche Zero would probably suit you quite well. Good quality grinding across the range and easy to switch back and forth. Otherwise you could get a BCG820 and if you want to upgrade the espresso capability later just get a second grinder and keep the BCG820 for filter grinding.

    The Super Jolly will be tricky to switch back and forth. The Rocky comes as a stepped grinder, but a lot of people modify it to be stepless to achieve greater adjustment especially at the espresso end. As a stepped grinder it will be easy to jump back and forth. As a stepless grinder it will be a little bit trickier, you may have to dial it back in each time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by theonetruepath View Post
    I would expect aging of the ground coffee to make that sort of difference in about three to 12 months. Not a few days. Flavour loss yes, but not 9 bar to 3 bar. Make sure you are putting in the exact same amount of coffee by weighing it, and tamp it about the same, and it should be 100% repeatable.

    I use the same BES920 with a Niche Zero grinder, and I get a significant change in pressure if I use a setting of say 17 instead of 18, but I see a bigger change if I use 17.8g instead of 18.5g.

    As long as I measure exactly 18.5g every time and calibrate each type of bean, I get 100% repeatable results.

    I have never actually tried grinding beans and then waiting two days... the loss of flavour renders the pressure question moot.

    Thanks for that. Just moved to Melbourne so my scale is still on its way. Hoping everything will be fine again when the scale. Just wanted something to play with and to practice my late art for the upcoming trial in a coffee shop.

    BTW, is there a way to adjust the water volume done in the 2 shots cup? eg: if you put 18.5g, you set the output at 37g?

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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Getting a higher yield is indicative of the grind / dose not being quite right to start with. If it's already almost unusable it could fall off usability that quickly depending on how the ground coffee is stored. If you're using preground coffee you need to use the dual wall baskets (also called pressurised baskets) or you'll continue to have these sorts of issues.

    The Breville BCG820 is surprisingly ok at grinding filter coffee, its performance at the espresso end is passable at best. The numbers on the dial make switching back and forth easy and accurate. I originally got my BES920 with a BCG820 but have since upgraded to a Eureka Atom. I still use the BCG820 for cold brew, aeropress, plunger, decaf etc. The Atom is much better at espresso but can't be switched back and forth easily. Depending on your budget something like the Niche Zero would probably suit you quite well. Good quality grinding across the range and easy to switch back and forth. Otherwise you could get a BCG820 and if you want to upgrade the espresso capability later just get a second grinder and keep the BCG820 for filter grinding.

    The Super Jolly will be tricky to switch back and forth. The Rocky comes as a stepped grinder, but a lot of people modify it to be stepless to achieve greater adjustment especially at the espresso end. As a stepped grinder it will be easy to jump back and forth. As a stepless grinder it will be a little bit trickier, you may have to dial it back in each time.

    Yesterday when I picked up the coffee from Market Lane, it was fine. Then today somehow it didn't work. While I was cleaning up the machine & trouble shooting I realised exactly what you mentioned - using dual wall baskets will probably solve the problem.

    Looks like Niche Zero would be way out of my budget. I'm currently still looking for a job in cafes so hopefully by then I will only need to buy an espresso grinder for my BES920 & use work's EK43 for filter coffee WHEN I find a job (fingers crossed)!

    Either way, thanks for your time and input.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post

    BTW, is there a way to adjust the water volume done in the 2 shots cup? eg: if you put 18.5g, you set the output at 37g?
    Yes you can set the machine to volumetric dosing. By default it is timed. I set mine to around 25g pour in 25 secs. If I grind the coffee a bit too fine it'll go to 21g in 32 secs. Too coarse it goes 30g in 18 secs. So it's not accurate volumetric dosing, but it actually works pretty well: Reducing the volume for a really long slow pour makes sense, as does increasing it for a really fast pour. Also I noticed that the first cup gives 25/25, the second about 23/23 with exactly the same coffee.

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    I'm sorry for the question, but my 920's just developed an internal leak. I've looked but haven't seen one. Was a schematic diagram or service manual ever discovered for this beast, before I open it up?

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    Quote Originally Posted by theonetruepath View Post
    Yes you can set the machine to volumetric dosing. By default it is timed. I set mine to around 25g pour in 25 secs. If I grind the coffee a bit too fine it'll go to 21g in 32 secs. Too coarse it goes 30g in 18 secs. So it's not accurate volumetric dosing, but it actually works pretty well: Reducing the volume for a really long slow pour makes sense, as does increasing it for a really fast pour. Also I noticed that the first cup gives 25/25, the second about 23/23 with exactly the same coffee.
    Like all machines with volumetric dosing that don't have a scale built into the drip tray it has to measure the water before it reaches the group head. If you change the resistance to flow with the coffee puck, more or less water will be required to build sufficient pressure to push through the puck. It's as consistent as your puck prep is. For me it's typically within 0.5g shot to shot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by burbleflurp View Post
    I'm sorry for the question, but my 920's just developed an internal leak. I've looked but haven't seen one. Was a schematic diagram or service manual ever discovered for this beast, before I open it up?
    OK thought I'd post this in case its of help to anyone. Exploded view available as pdf at top of this page. Don't know that I'd recommend buying from this site ($11 for a (silicone?) O rings seems a little steep).
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    Quote Originally Posted by burbleflurp View Post
    I'm sorry for the question, but my 920's just developed an internal leak. I've looked but haven't seen one. Was a schematic diagram or service manual ever discovered for this beast, before I open it up?
    The usual cautions apply about water heat and electricity when you open it up. But if you open up the top cover when the machine is warmed up, and wiggle the hard PTFE water lines on top of the steam boiler, (and maybe if you don't wiggle them), you will find the steam hissers. If they are more subtle, you will find them for sure by putting a little dentist mirror around them or even a shiny spoon as the steam will fog up the shiny surface. As for doing the job itself, get the right sized o-rings, (#007), you pull the hairpin clip, pull out the tube. On the end will be an o-ring. pull it off the end and put a new one on. If there was a small thin washer, put it back in the same place you found it. If there were two o-rings replace both. With the new o-rings, it might help to push the tube downwards to compress the new o-ring as you put the hairpin clip back in place. There might be three silicone boots attached with silicone adhesive. You will want to break that adhesive. You might destroy or partly destroy your boots doing this. Many people do, and just bin the boots. They don't do much. I was able to save mine, but I just slipped them up out of the way, and never put them back.

    If you can't find silicone o-rings right away, just use whatever you can find, Viton, Nitrile, etc... While you shop for silicone. The job is easy enough to re do that you can get yourself back in business with whatever o-ring you have, and do it again later when you find silicone.

    Added note: o-ring material is the subject of much debate. If you study the application sheets nothing is ideal. They all have one compromise or another.

    -Peter

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    Hey all, have been reading the forum on and off for a few years. Today after nearly a month without a coffee machine I got a new BEP920 and smart grinder under extended warranty. Even better was the pair is on special at the local retailer for $1199 so I got $300 to spend on other goodies like some nice dual wall glasses.

    Anyway reason posting, the bep920 has a different filter than my previous bes920. Anyone know what the differences are between the two? I bought 3 packs of filter with my store credit only to find when I got home that they are the old style filters, I didn't know they had changed this on the latest revision.

    So happy to have a coffee machine back at home the instant coffee was so bad after being spoilt with proper coffee for past 3 1/2 years.

    Also got 4 X 250g bags of coffee beans coming for the next two months via the latest Breville promotion, not sure if the beans will be any good but will give them a go when they arrive. If my local retailer doesn't have the filters then I might buy a good set of kitchen scales for measuring my coffee doses and shots. Maybe I can get a better coffee out of this machine not that I have any issues with the current brew.

    Sorry for the long first post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by minik1972000 View Post
    Anyway reason posting, the bep920 has a different filter than my previous bes920. Anyone know what the differences are between the two? I bought 3 packs of filter with my store credit only to find when I got home that they are the old style filters, I didn't know they had changed this on the latest revision.
    Congratulations on getting a great deal.

    The BDB is capable of making espresso as good as just about any machine made today. If you were to buy one of those expensive machines, they would not rely on their own filters or on the descale function. They would require you to feed them good safe water so that such filters are not necessary. That is how I treat my BDB. I treat it like a $10,000 machine in terms of the water I feed it. And that is why it looks and operates as brand new, years down the road. If you think you want to have your machine for a long time, I recommend that you ensure your water has little or no Ca or Mg in it, no matter what filtration scheme you use. In one home, I use an under the kitchen sink, softener filter that is made specifically for espresso machines. This is the smaller version of th kind of thing they use in the coffee shops where they don't want their $20,000 machines suffering scale damage. In our other house, I just mix my own water by buying 20L jugs of distilled water and adding 100mg/L of potassium bicarb or sodium bicarb to it. No scale possible and the buffering ions work with the machine.

    In my BDB, I just use an old fiber filter to trap any solid particles before they get into the pump. The real filtration and water treatment occurs before the water ever gets to the machine.

    -Peter
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    Thanks Peter. Being in Hobart our water is really soft so I guess that helps out somewhat but I will take what you have said onboard.

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    Does anyone know if the old water filters will fit into the new filter setup? Tried to ring Breville support to ask them but they aren't open on the weekend

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    ^^^


    Google is your best friend:

    https://coffeesnobs.com.au/brewing-e...thread-45.html


    Read from post #2232.

    These new filters are very good, even though they are rather expensive. Customer Service told me that in very soft water areas they'll last for 6 months, which mine did. I've had the machine about a year and have done one descale which was quite clean so I think it's safe to use them for 6 months in my area.

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    Thanks, I did a bit of a search of this thread after I posted. I didn't find that particular reply though so thanks for pointing that out. Back to retailer today to get a refund on 3 boxes of the old filters.

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    Thanks for all your great posts people, took my filters back today and grabbed a new set of kitchen scales. After a bit of tinkering with the grinder and tamper pressure I now am getting a good 40g of brew from 20g of coffee and running at a nice 9psi. Wow my coffee has more flavours than I had previously achieved. Can't wait to try some of the other beans I have now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by minik1972000 View Post
    Does anyone know if the old water filters will fit into the new filter setup?
    In case you were still wondering, the answer is categorically, yes. The old filters will work in the new machine. I have the new style machine with the new filters. But I do not use them. I use the old ones, just for the fiber filter (as again, I use scale free water anyway, so I don't need any softening).

    HTH

    -Peter

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    Any recommendations for someone on the Gold Coast to replace the pump and solenoid valve? I'm guessing that it's one or both that needs replacing, as the machine failed to pump anything other than a minuscule dribble this morning. The temperature also went past the preset of 93c and sat at 97c.

    Cheers

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    What is everyone's thoughts on my brew?
    Still working on getting my milk technique down pat so I can do some art but it still tastes good even if it doesn't have the pretty picture on top.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StaticBlue View Post
    Any recommendations for someone on the Gold Coast to replace the pump and solenoid valve? I'm guessing that it's one or both that needs replacing, as the machine failed to pump anything other than a minuscule dribble this morning. The temperature also went past the preset of 93c and sat at 97c.

    Cheers
    You need two diagnoses:

    1) Overheating is usually from the o-rings in the PTFE water tubes on top of the steam boiler needing replacement. They hiss out steam onto a control board that lies right above them. The good news is, the o-rings are cheap and easy to replace, and once the control board dries out, it usually isn't damaged and will operate normally.

    2) Your lack of flow: It's possible that the pump has gone crook. It's possible that the solenoid plunger isn't seating correctly because of wear, scale, or debris, in which case, you should see some water entering the drip tray during pumping. But it's equally possible that you have passages blocked by scale. If you can get hold of a proper blind basket, (under $5 in USA markets), even though the flow is a dribble, run the machine with that in place. If pressure eventually builds on the gauge after allowing enough time for the basket to fill, (30-45s or more), then the pump is probably fine and your blockages are due to scale. Let's hope it's not that. That would require a new group (~$110 in USA markets and a couple hours labour or more).

    -Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcrussell50 View Post
    You need two diagnoses:

    1) Overheating is usually from the o-rings in the PTFE water tubes on top of the steam boiler needing replacement.

    2) Your lack of flow: It's possible that the pump has gone crook.

    -Peter
    Thanks Peter, tinkering is not in my genes (breaking and never getting it to work again is), so I'll need to find someone locally to look at it, or failing this, will need to purchase again.

    Cheers

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    Question on which way the shower screen and black part goes on! Is the shower screen meant to sit in the black plastic with the black part overhanging or does the shower screen protrude past the black plastic? Unsure if it affects the shot or affects the rubber seal in any way! Cheers

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    The black piece goes on top and the metal shower screen goes beneath that closest to the group. Both have a counter sunk centre so make sure that is the right way round before putting the Allen key bolt back in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by minik1972000 View Post
    The black piece goes on top and the metal shower screen goes beneath that closest to the group. Both have a counter sunk centre so make sure that is the right way round before putting the Allen key bolt back in.
    Nah I know which part goes where, it's just a matter of which side the black part goes. Like which bit of the blakc plastic is facing down and which faces up into the machine

  28. #2528
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    Quote Originally Posted by StaticBlue View Post
    Any recommendations for someone on the Gold Coast to replace the pump and solenoid valve? I'm guessing that it's one or both that needs replacing, as the machine failed to pump anything other than a minuscule dribble this morning. The temperature also went past the preset of 93c and sat at 97c.

    Cheers
    A friends machine started losing flow and then stopped flowing. Pulling the solenoid off, one of the holes was completely blocked with scale. Cleaned and reinstalled and all good again.

    Cheers

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    OPV Releasing Steam?

    Hi Guys,

    Recently picked up a second hand BES920 which had the dreaded 3 beep no steam issue after previous owner had de-scaled. I fixed this by replacing the Thermal Fuse on the Steam boiler (what a PITA of a job)! Anyhow, all is working fine except for when the machine is idle it keeps releasing a strong amount of steam pressure on the left side drip tray. I presume this is coming from the OPV, its a decent amount of steam, and only lastís for around 30secs and then slows down and goes away. It comes off and on randomly..

    I presume the boiler is reaching a certain pressure then the OPV is releasing that pressure. My question is; Why is this happening and so frequently? A little steam I could understand, but this is excessive and to the point of concern. It makes a whistling sound it comes out that forceful sometimes.

    Initially i thought it was air trapped in the lines (after boiler drain).. but iíve run the boilers through many many cycles to try and eliminate that.

    Has anyone had this happen and know what it could be? Iím almost out of ideas.

    I can confirm the following

    - Steam and Brew boiler working fine (49ohm on the steam boiler element as tested on MM)
    - Steams fine and brews fine
    - OPV looks to be aligned on the same blue markings as OEM
    - The Solenoid Valve is on its way out, making the usual loud buzzing noise, although i dont think that has anything to do with this issue.

    It appears almost as if stream boiler is trying to heat too high temp (too much pressure) - it does seem pretty powerful in terms of steam to me.

    Appreciate any ideas/feedback.
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    The boiler has an anti vacuum valve at the top which vents to the tray. It's the valve with the silicone hose on it in the middle of the top of the boiler.

    Often after moving the boiler around (after replacing a fuse for example, as you have done) some flakes of undissolved scale or other debris can get lodged in the valve.
    You can unscrew and disassemble the valve, clean it out and try it again. Usually works.

  31. #2531
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    Thanks Noidle22 - assuming you mean this valve?

    Iíll do this now. Cheers
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    Valve looks nice and clean to me, unfortunately i dont think it is that..
    Maybe NTC probe is falty??
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    I can confirm i have no issues with anti vacuum valve, as its venting perfectly. In fact my problem is that it’s venting too much! However i think its another issue, as its building too much pressure in the steam boiler. My reason is because when it starts letting off steam through the anti vac valve (and OPV at the same time i can see) the pressure at the steam wand when pressed is WAY TOO HIGH, then once you release some of the pressure it comes back to normal steam pressure and the ANTI VAC valve stops releasing and it will sit fine for a while until more pressure slowly builds.

    Does this sound like a faulty NTC probe or some kind of Sensor? Seems to me like the machine is building to much pressure in the boiler and its having to constantly vent this.

    Quote Originally Posted by noidle22 View Post
    The boiler has an anti vacuum valve at the top which vents to the tray. It's the valve with the silicone hose on it in the middle of the top of the boiler.

    Often after moving the boiler around (after replacing a fuse for example, as you have done) some flakes of undissolved scale or other debris can get lodged in the valve.
    You can unscrew and disassemble the valve, clean it out and try it again. Usually works.

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    I called Breville today to ask which de-scale procedure my machine should use, and I got absolutely nothing. They had no idea what I was talking about!

    I called the service agent in my area and he instructed me to check my firmware by turning off the machine at the powerpoint, then holding down 'Exit' and 'Manual' buttons for 5 seconds until the firmware number pops up on screen. I had A16 which meant I needed to use the old instructions.
    Unfortunately... it seems like just about everyone that tries to descale fails... so I'm too scared to try it.

    Would running less of the solution through the machine be at least somewhat of an alternative to a full descale? Or is that a waste of time.
    Last edited by Jebus; 1 Week Ago at 01:34 PM.

  35. #2535
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jebus View Post
    ...Would running less of the solution through the machine be at least somewhat of an alternative to a full descale? Or is that a waste of time.
    Tried a partial solution descale through my Cremina. Got away with it because it is a Cremina ie simple as. It partially dissolved the scale, which wasn't a problem, but it also dislodged a lot of the scale that it didn't dissolve - not something you want clogging up the complicated bits.

    Ps see: Brewing Equipment - Extreme. - My Take On Cremina - Post #24 + #25.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OCD View Post
    it also dislodged a lot of the scale that it didn't dissolve - not something you want clogging up the complicated bits.
    Interesting! Thanks for letting me know, think I'll just avoid it altogether until it needs a proper service in the future.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy196 View Post
    I can confirm i have no issues with anti vacuum valve, as its venting perfectly. In fact my problem is that itís venting too much! However i think its another issue, as its building too much pressure in the steam boiler. My reason is because when it starts letting off steam through the anti vac valve (and OPV at the same time i can see) the pressure at the steam wand when pressed is WAY TOO HIGH, then once you release some of the pressure it comes back to normal steam pressure and the ANTI VAC valve stops releasing and it will sit fine for a while until more pressure slowly builds.

    Does this sound like a faulty NTC probe or some kind of Sensor? Seems to me like the machine is building to much pressure in the boiler and its having to constantly vent this.
    The NTC barely ever fails, probably not the cause.

    What is the temperature rating of the fuse you installed?

    What could possibly be happening here is that there is a shorted steam boiler triac and the fuse you put in is rated too high, the boiler is constantly heating (due to the shorted triac) and is only physically limiting the pressure by venting through the OPV and anti-vac.
    The boiler does have a safety thermostat on it but I don't know the temperature rating of it. It's possibly it's venting enough to not hit the thermostat cutoff point.

    To test for a shorted triac, plug the machine in and turn it on at the wall but leave it off at the machine. If after a minute or two you can hear the steam boiler heating, the triac is shorted.

    These triacs usually fail from moisture inside the case due to steam boiler o-ring leaks. Possibly when you had the lid off to replace the fuse some wiring got bumped or damaged in some way which is now causing the issue.

  38. #2538
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    Quote Originally Posted by noidle22 View Post
    The NTC barely ever fails, probably not the cause.

    What is the temperature rating of the fuse you installed?

    What could possibly be happening here is that there is a shorted steam boiler triac and the fuse you put in is rated too high, the boiler is constantly heating (due to the shorted triac) and is only physically limiting the pressure by venting through the OPV and anti-vac.
    The boiler does have a safety thermostat on it but I don't know the temperature rating of it. It's possibly it's venting enough to not hit the thermostat cutoff point.

    To test for a shorted triac, plug the machine in and turn it on at the wall but leave it off at the machine. If after a minute or two you can hear the steam boiler heating, the triac is shorted.

    These triacs usually fail from moisture inside the case due to steam boiler o-ring leaks. Possibly when you had the lid off to replace the fuse some wiring got bumped or damaged in some way which is now causing the issue.
    Sorry i did not see your reply.

    noidle22 - You are absolutely spot on my word!! I didn’t really pay attention but now i have the triad is definitely shorting!

    When i turn the machine on at the wall, the boiler starts heating immediately i can hear it, and thats with the machine OFF on the display panel! (Wall switch only)

    Note: There was a bit of a mishap when I initially put the machine together... I had joined the old Thermal Fuse to the new one via crimps (as I couldn’t solder to the underside of the boiler) and it accidentally shorted under the steam boiler. This happened twice and sparked and blew the 16amp house fuse box.

    Once inspected i realised the thermal fuse wires were touching when i was re-installing/lowering the steam boiler so i carefully re-routed everything and re-did the connections and used heat shrink to ensure no contact.

    All was fine, except for the issue i am experiencing now. So essentially the OPV is doing its job great, and the boiler is constantly heating which explains why the steam pressure is so high initially!

    Is there any way i can test if the TRIAC is toast or if the issue is with some other wiring touching somewhere?
    I’ve had the TRIAC dissembled a few times now during this procedure. Ive inspected it and didn’t notice anything damaged. Although when the wires under the steam boiler shorted out i did see a big spark in the machine... thought that was from underneath the machine however it may have been the TRIAC (despite the TRIAC showing no signs of physical damage)

    FYI the part number for the Thermal Fuse i ordered was BES900/05.13 which from my research is correct and suits BES900/BES920/BES980.

  39. #2539
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    Also, I’ve just re-inspected the TRIAC and noticed “goop” on the board (bottom middle and top right). This could be the culprit.

    Do you think this can be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner, or time for a new board?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  40. #2540
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    Update: I cleaned the board with electrical contact cleaner but it didn’t help. Boiler still starts heating once power is on at the wall. I’ll order a new TRIAC and see if that solves the problem, they are only $61 so lucky it’s not too of an expensive part!

  41. #2541
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    You could always try altronics or jaycar or rs etc for the electrical components.

    Cheers

  42. #2542
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    Quote Originally Posted by artman View Post
    You could always try altronics or jaycar or rs etc for the electrical components.

    Cheers
    Its the Breville TRIAC board I need, which I’ve ordered.

  43. #2543
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy196 View Post
    Its the Breville TRIAC board I need, which Iíve ordered.
    That's the best option. Replacing the triacs individually isn't always successful. The optocouplers or other parts of the board can often fail as well.
    There was a poster in this thread I think, or maybe the older thread, who replaced the optos and triacs and was successful for him I think. Easier to just replace the PCB though.
    artman and Andy196 like this.

  44. #2544
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    Quote Originally Posted by noidle22 View Post
    That's the best option. Replacing the triacs individually isn't always successful. The optocouplers or other parts of the board can often fail as well.
    There was a poster in this thread I think, or maybe the older thread, who replaced the optos and triacs and was successful for him I think. Easier to just replace the PCB though.
    Thanks for all your help and guidance, much appreciated

  45. #2545
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    Hi everyone,

    I have been lurking for years, learning as much as I can and because of that, I bought a BES920. It has worked fine for the past couple of years but recently stopped heating past 55c. I opened it up and found some leaks on the water hoses so I bought new 007 silicone o'rings and replaced them. The temp went up to the early 60's but that's as far as it gets.
    There are no more leaks as far as I can see
    The group head gets hot
    The steam boiler boils
    but the coffee boiler does not get hot.
    Can anyone help me with this?
    Beer is good but I need my coffee!

    Thank you.

  46. #2546
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    Hi all.

    I am am looking for a 58mm naked portafilter for my BDB. The Breville branded ones are crazy expensive. Does anyone know of any third party brands that fit the BDB? More than happy to get a 2 spout and convert that myself or buy one that comes bottomless. I don’t want to convert my current 2 spout portafilter though as I do still split shots occasionally. Thanks!

  47. #2547
    Senior Member deegee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeBoi View Post
    Hi all. I am am looking for a 58mm naked portafilter for my BDB. The Breville branded ones are crazy expensive. Does anyone know of any third party brands that fit the BDB? More than happy to get a 2 spout and convert that myself or buy one that comes bottomless. I donít want to convert my current 2 spout portafilter though as I do still split shots occasionally. Thanks!
    I'm not sure if all E61 porta-filters are the same, but the ones that came with my BFC Diadema will NOT fit the BDB and I suspect that would apply to most, or maybe even all E61's . If that's the case it rules out a lot of makes/models.

    The P/F from the old Gaggia Classic can often be found going cheap, and can be made to fit, but needs a bit of extra work. In addition to cutting the bottom out, you need to file about 1mm off the top edge to compensate for the thicker lugs. Also, the lugs are positioned differently, so the handle has to be held at about 9 o'clock to insert it, and only moves to about 8 o'clock when rotated, but it locks in tight and works OK. Just takes a little bit of getting used to.

  48. #2548
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeBoi View Post
    Hi all.

    I am am looking for a 58mm naked portafilter for my BDB. The Breville branded ones are crazy expensive. Does anyone know of any third party brands that fit the BDB? More than happy to get a 2 spout and convert that myself or buy one that comes bottomless. I don’t want to convert my current 2 spout portafilter though as I do still split shots occasionally. Thanks!
    There's nothing else that fits without modifying the lugs as per deegee's comment, though Pullman sell Breville ones for about $160. If you buy the Breville one direct from Breville it should be around $70. Pretty good price for a stainless PF that has been machined. Given that they are stainless if you do buy a spouted one to convert, expect to take a long time and kill a holesaw. Buy the biggest holesaw you can get into the PF (remove the spring first) as opening up the hole further will be just as painful as making the hole.

  49. #2549
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    Quote Originally Posted by noidle22 View Post
    That's the best option. Replacing the triacs individually isn't always successful. The optocouplers or other parts of the board can often fail as well.
    There was a poster in this thread I think, or maybe the older thread, who replaced the optos and triacs and was successful for him I think. Easier to just replace the PCB though.
    I can confirm that replacing the TRIAC PCB fixed the issue
    She’s working perfectly now and honestly gives my Profitec Pro 700 a run for its money I had a laugh (especially with steam pressure bumped up to 130c).

    Good little machine, thanks again for all your guidance noidle22. This is a great forum with plenty of knowledge and support.
    Javaphile likes this.

  50. #2550
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeBoi View Post
    Hi all.

    I am am looking for a 58mm naked portafilter for my BDB. The Breville branded ones are crazy expensive. Does anyone know of any third party brands that fit the BDB? More than happy to get a 2 spout and convert that myself or buy one that comes bottomless. I donít want to convert my current 2 spout portafilter though as I do still split shots occasionally. Thanks!
    I bought one direct from Breville (BES058NPCRO) last October and paid $89.95. I see they are now $99.95. Not cheap, but not what I would call 'crazy expensive'. If you use their brain damaged web site and find the wrong one you can pay $154.44 instead.
    https://www.breville.com/au/en/parts...s058npcro.html
    Last edited by theonetruepath; 1 Day Ago at 12:24 AM. Reason: error
    level3ninja likes this.



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