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Thread: Breville BES920 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

  1. #2601
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    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Yeah- There is no doubt that Breville are still doing well on them.

    I had it on good terms that when they were initially selling at $1500, they were landing them at $300 per unit.

    I'd think they're bargain basement now because they're well and truly at the end of the product cycle. It's not worth repairing one and they have zero value once used. Sadly, they'll all end up in landfill.
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  2. #2602
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caffeinator View Post
    Yeah- There is no doubt that Breville are still doing well on them.

    I had it on good terms that when they were initially selling at $1500, they were landing them at $300 per unit.

    I'd think they're bargain basement now because they're well and truly at the end of the product cycle. It's not worth repairing one and they have zero value once used. Sadly, they'll all end up in landfill.
    That's a very good point. I just returned my Breville Infuser which started delivering water / steam only from the group head. (Maybe just some solenoid valve issue?) I was told they don't repair them and my option was to upgrade to a newer model, as the Infuser is no longer supplied. I ended up with a full refund, but I really hope my broken machine is used for something other than land fill.... would be easy to fix. I am now back to plunger coffee while saving my money for a higher end machine.

    We are filling the planet with plastic and I don't want to see any more of it in my coffee station.

    (Nothing against Breville. We have a number of their appliances and it's a good brand with a good customer support. But... you know what I mean?)

    LG

  3. #2603
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobSac View Post
    I'd hate to part with a $650 machine after only 2 years, or have to spend more on it in maintenance.
    All coffee machines need regular maintenance/servicing. Most issues people have are a result of either misuse or lack of maintenance. If everyone read the instructions fully, performed the required maintenance and treated their machine kindly, there'd be a lot less in the way of issues I'd imagine.

    This includes using filtered water, back-flushing, not overfilling the portafilter and then trying to force it home, not constantly choking the machine etc.

  4. #2604
    Senior Member clubbi4's Avatar
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    I've had three of these machines and still have 1 which i bought a year ago at that sale price. My first machine was refunded to me by the extended warranty people which was for $1250 which is what i paid for the first machine. Since then, the second machine lasted me 2 years to the date then had an issue with leaky steam wand and boiler stopped working and replaced the collar which breville were happy to cover for me under warranty. When that machine broke down, i bought another machine at the sale price and sent mine in for repair. So i still have the repaired machine in my spare room as a back up spare machine when my current machine breaks down in a round 12 months time.

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    I just unboxed my BES920 after buying it on the $630 'The Good Guys' special. Still havent used it, but I have to say that as nice as the machine is, the portafilter on my previous EM7000 is a little nicer in feel. Feels a little heavier and sturdier than the Breville.

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    Also, is there any internet resources about how to get the best out of this machine? Like a summary of this thread? Or will I need to go through all pages here?

  7. #2607
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    Just had my BES920 back from the repairers... again. I had internal leaks that were causing the mains fuse safety to trip. This had been repaired last year under warranty, but now obviously at cost. I had upgraded from the 900 as I had experienced multiple leaks with that machine and I was lead to believe that the de-calcifying in the 920 would fix the underlying cause. Obviously not.

    The repairers were very matter of fact about the repair—they'd obviously seen it before. And when I called Breville support, the tech guy said that I should expect to change the rings on the boiler once a year if I use the machine regularly— "like servicing a car". I don't remember seeing this in the manual. Again, he didn't seem concerned that the machine was tripping the safety switch.


    I'm not sure if I should expect more from Breville, but it really seems as though they could care less. Meanwhile the 10 year old Sunbeam 6910 keeps chugging along...

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    Quote Originally Posted by BOR15 View Post
    Ok guys I need some info/help. For the last week when I pull my first shot my 920 gurgles for the first 3 seconds then the pump starts. If I stop and restart it doesn’t. If I do a second shot it doesn’t. But if I leave it for 5 mins it does it again for the first shot. It has been rescaled and cleaned as per messages.

    Any help would be appreciated
    Hi, mine does the same thing. I believe it's the pump not driving with the lower power being delivered to it during the start. You can get around this temporarily by working the hot water tap until the pump starts, then stopping the tap and then pressing your coffee brew button. I suspect that replacing the pump will solve this issue.
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    Hi folks, not sure if anyone else has cocked up like I have but I replaced all the o-rings today (8 were leaking!) in my 2014-purchased BES920 and in the process I accidentally shorted out the Triac board. I can brew coffee but the steam boiler gets no power.

    Anyone else been as stupid as me? I've ordered a new Triac board but I'm curious if the main boiler fuse would have also blown.

    Note that the machine was soft-powered off at the time but was plugged in with the wall switch on. When it happened there was a flash on the Triac board and the house safety switch tripped. Yes, I had the Triac board removed from the lid to enable better access to the guts. That's how it contacted the chassis and shorted. I had placed the Triac board in a "safe place" before connecting the mains power and was leaving the lid off to monitor the boiler o-rings to ensure the new ones sealed. I know, I'm an idiot.

    So anyway the machine does turn on and brew coffee and there appears to be no issues with the logic functions. The steam boiler just won't heat up.

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    I'm possibly more stupid—paid a repair centre to replace 8 o-rings for $143.

  11. #2611
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    Quote Originally Posted by datzed View Post
    Also, is there any internet resources about how to get the best out of this machine? Like a summary of this thread? Or will I need to go through all pages here?
    What grinder do you have? What type of beans do you buy? What type of coffee do you want to make? What's your experience with making coffee?

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    Quote Originally Posted by flyswatter View Post
    I'm possibly more stupid—paid a repair centre to replace 8 o-rings for $143.
    No, what you did was help a small business to keep surviving in a dying industry. You paid for expertise and proper workmanship.

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    Question to other BES920 owners. I made my first cup the other day. Machine is a nice step up from my previous EM7000.

    One thing though, is at the end of my extraction as the water shuts off, I notice a small discharge of water gets released into the drip tray. This discharge appears to be released into the left hand side collection area from the very back of the drip tray.

    Is this normal?

    The water being collected appears to be slightly brown too (i.e. has a little but of coffee in it). Its definitely discharge and not water thats dripped from the portafilter.

    All settings are factory.

    My EM7000 used to do this if I shut off the shot early.

    Can anyone confirm this as normal or not before I call Breville?
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  14. #2614
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    What grinder do you have? What type of beans do you buy? What type of coffee do you want to make? What's your experience with making coffee?
    Breville Smart Grinder. I only make exrepssors. But I was just after some handy tips to make the coffee machine work more efficiently and increase its longevity. For example, does the water hardness setting number make much difference? I've set mine to #2.

  15. #2615
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    Quote Originally Posted by datzed View Post
    Breville Smart Grinder. I only make exrepssors. But I was just after some handy tips to make the coffee machine work more efficiently and increase its longevity. For example, does the water hardness setting number make much difference? I've set mine to #2.
    This setting doesn't make any difference to your finished coffee. It just changes the frequency of how often the descale warning comes up. Basically it counts your shots. I have mine set at one and the warning to descale came up just after six months and was unnecessary. I descaled and it was very clean, so I'll leave the next one for a year. The water in my area is very soft.

  16. #2616
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    Quote Originally Posted by datzed View Post
    Question to other BES920 owners. I made my first cup the other day. Machine is a nice step up from my previous EM7000.

    One thing though, is at the end of my extraction as the water shuts off, I notice a small discharge of water gets released into the drip tray. This discharge appears to be released into the left hand side collection area from the very back of the drip tray.

    Is this normal?

    The water being collected appears to be slightly brown too (i.e. has a little but of coffee in it). Its definitely discharge and not water thats dripped from the portafilter.

    All settings are factory.

    My EM7000 used to do this if I shut off the shot early.

    Can anyone confirm this as normal or not before I call Breville?
    It's totally normal. It's the 3-way valve relieving the pressure in the grouphead.


    Java "Carry on" phile
    Toys! I must have new toys!!!

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    anyone here know if the Pullman Big Step tamper will fit the stock double basket? and additionally, the VST ridgeless as well?

  18. #2618
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    Quote Originally Posted by datzed View Post
    Breville Smart Grinder. I only make exrepssors. But I was just after some handy tips to make the coffee machine work more efficiently and increase its longevity. For example, does the water hardness setting number make much difference? I've set mine to #2.
    In terms of maintenance you're going to want to backflush with a blind disc (or the supplied rubber insert) after every coffee making session until clear, that is no tiny pieces of ground coffee visible after backflushing only water. If there's coffee tip the water out and do it again. Repeat until only water. Also run the cleaning cycle with chemical cleaner every week of the machine had been used once or more during that week. You don't have to use the tablets Breville supply, I use Cafetto Espresso Clean powder which can be purchased in various amounts and works out much more economical than the tablets. My water hardness test strip came back negative so I've set mine at #1, however I still descale every 3 months because there are very small particles of scale on the surface of the water from the steam boiler. You'll want to change out the o-rings on all the internal hoses roughly every year or two. Change the water filter in the tank whenever Breville recommends. Be on time with your maintenance and the machine will last much longer performing at the same level. I'm about to replace the pump on mine because the way Breville does preinfusion eventually kills the pump but my machine is about 4 years old.

    In terms of using the machine never put more than 20g in the double basket (18g is better). If the coffee is still running too fast make the grind finer don't increase the dose. If you can't grind fine enough your beans may be too old, or you need to adjust the upper burr setting on your grinder if it's the BCG820 or shim it if it's the BCG800.

    In terms of "getting the best out of the machine" it won't be the machine holding you back. The machine is far more capable than any Breville grinder will allow it to be. If down the track you want to upgrade start with the grinder, then look at upgrading the filter basket and getting a tamper matched to the new basket (I use a Eureka Atom grinder with VST basket and Pullman tamper, but you don't have to spend that much to get an improvement).
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  19. #2619
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefflu88 View Post
    anyone here know if the Pullman Big Step tamper will fit the stock double basket? and additionally, the VST ridgeless as well?
    The Pullman Big Step works really well with the VST Ridgeless baskets I have. It also fits into 58mm Rancilio and VBM standard genuine baskets without snagging. I'd say more than likely it should fit the BES920 standard 58mm (nom size) filter baskets. A bit pricey but a really nice Tamper. Would probably last a lifetime with little sign of wear if looked after.

    I was a little unsure of its relatively light weight (360g) initially but have since found it provides extra feel when tamping if compared to the common 500g Tampers I have used (ProTamp). If you start to tilt off level you can easily feel it and correct quickly. The Step in the tamper seems to work well. It doesn't get jammed by any coffee granules that slip past on the wall of the filter basket. Comes with 3 spacers to adjust handle height for the size of your hand. The base is made of a harder grade of Stainless Steel than cheaper Tampers and doesn't scratch easily.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9YTst6FjB0
    Last edited by CafeLotta; 3 Weeks Ago at 12:13 PM.

  20. #2620
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    When I got my VST basket and matched Pullman tamper I was surprised that the tamper was looser in the stock Breville basket than the VST, so I suspect a big step would fit too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Javaphile View Post
    It's totally normal. It's the 3-way valve relieving the pressure in the grouphead.


    Java "Carry on" phile
    THanks mate.

    I must say, I like the BES920 so far, but its steam power is very average. The EM7000 steam jet was leagues ahead. I had no issues getting the milk swiveling and foaming in the jug with the EM7000. You really need to get the angle right of the jar of milk to get the milk swiveling at all.
    Last edited by datzed; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:22 PM.

  22. #2622
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    Quote Originally Posted by datzed View Post
    THanks mate.

    I must say, I like the BES920 so far, but its steam power is very average. The EM7000 steam jet was leagues ahead. I had no issues getting the milk swiveling and foaming in the jug with the EM7000. You really need to get the angle right of the jar of milk to get the milk swiveling at all.
    Have you tried adjusting the steam boiler temp?

  23. #2623
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    Quote Originally Posted by CafeLotta View Post
    Have you tried adjusting the steam boiler temp?
    No I havent. Thanks for pointing out. Does this make a difference to the steam pressure out of the wand? I find the steam heats up the milk very quickly, but its pressure out of the outlet is very weak. This is only in comparison to my EM7000, which could make the milk swirl out of the jug easily!

  24. #2624
    Senior Member CafeLotta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by datzed View Post
    No I havent. Thanks for pointing out. Does this make a difference to the steam pressure out of the wand? I find the steam heats up the milk very quickly, but its pressure out of the outlet is very weak. This is only in comparison to my EM7000, which could make the milk swirl out of the jug easily!
    This is an extract from the Breville website in regard to the BES920 and adjusting Steam Temp but check your manual also -

    "Once in the advance menu, use the up arrow to move to the fourth selection, the Steam Temperature (StEA).

    When StEA is displayed, press the MENU button.

    Using the up and down arrows, select the desired Steam Boiler temperature settings. Generally the lower the temperature, the less milk steam pressure will be produced. This is fine for smaller amounts of milk. The higher the temperature the more pressure is generated and this is useful when larger amounts of milk will be frothed.

    Once the desired temperature is reached, press the MENU button again.

    The machine will beep to confirm the selection."


    This is also worth reading and keeping in mind for down the track when you need to perform a descale -

    https://coffeesnobs.com.au/brewing-e...ded-beeps.html

    Worth scanning this thread as there no doubt will be more information.

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    [QUOTE=Barathea;653989]Hello



    About 2 weeks ago the puck started sticking to the group
    head after back-flushing...then about 1 week ago the
    puck started sticking to the group head after shot extraction

    I replaced the screen inner and group head seal and now
    the machine is back to normal

    Thanks to those who replied and put me on the road to recovery
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  26. #2626
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    [QUOTE=Barathea;654487]
    Quote Originally Posted by Barathea View Post
    Hello



    About 2 weeks ago the puck started sticking to the group
    head after back-flushing...then about 1 week ago the
    puck started sticking to the group head after shot extraction

    I replaced the screen inner and group head seal and now
    the machine is back to normal

    Thanks to those who replied and put me on the road to recovery
    Keep the old group head seal as a spare. You never know when you will need it in an emergency.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flyswatter View Post
    I'm possibly more stupid—paid a repair centre to replace 8 o-rings for $143.
    Oh I wouldn't say that. It needs to be considered that me replacing my own O-rings for $10 total has a lot of years of learning behind that to make me comfortable with pulling things like coffee machines apart.

    I'm one of those people that can't understand others who don't maintain their own cars, or replace capacitors in dishwashers when the motor stops spinning. I accept that I am a very rare breed. Most of my friends are quite happy to be an expert in one thing (their career) and farm all other work out to someone else. I would struggle to do so.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaldek View Post
    Hi folks, not sure if anyone else has cocked up like I have but I replaced all the o-rings today (8 were leaking!) in my 2014-purchased BES920 and in the process I accidentally shorted out the Triac board. I can brew coffee but the steam boiler gets no power.

    Anyone else been as stupid as me? I've ordered a new Triac board but I'm curious if the main boiler fuse would have also blown.
    Update: replacing the Triac board solved the issue and my machine is now fully refurbed and making excellent coffees once more.

    I will add that replacing the Triac board means you need to strip and re-connect four 240 volt wires. That means you'll need some decent crimp style wire connectors and a crimping tool.

  29. #2629
    Senior Member argus's Avatar
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    Any tips on the easiest way to access the o-ring on the side of the steam boiler please?
    At the moment it bubbles and hisses during heat up but seems to seal once it is up to temp but I have a feeling it won’t last much longer.
    If it is a boiler out job is there a good step by step that someone could link to please?
    Thanks

  30. #2630
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    Brought myself 2nd hand Dual Boiler a few days back here in Sydney.

    I was told on purchasing that it had an issue with keeping pressure so I changed the Solenoid to no avail.

    I've decided to send it in to the pros for repairs "Bravo Repairs" ( in Sydney )
    So cross my fingers it won't be a steep bill and I might just have myself an awesome BES920.

    note: when I dropped it off for repairs... the bloke there mentioned they do software upgrades on BES920s

    Will post results shorty.

  31. #2631
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    how much was the board ?

  32. #2632
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    Quote Originally Posted by argus View Post
    Any tips on the easiest way to access the o-ring on the side of the steam boiler please?
    At the moment it bubbles and hisses during heat up but seems to seal once it is up to temp but I have a feeling it won’t last much longer.
    If it is a boiler out job is there a good step by step that someone could link to please?
    Thanks
    1. Remove the whole cup warmer plate first. Lots of information on how to do this. Also, always unplug the machine first.
    2. Once cover is off, you can access all the O rings of both the boilers easily. You don't need to remove the boiler. All hoses are held on by clips which you can remove with needle nose pliers. Once the clips are removed, the hoses can be pulled out to reveal the O ring. Here's a video about the different types of O rings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNZcCEMr7Z4
    3. Looking from the front, the steam boiler is on your right. The brew boiler is directly over the group head. It's almost always the steam boiler causing issues. I've repaired 3 machines.
    4. Inspect the O rings, if its cracked, you will need to change them. Interestingly, most of the steam boiler O rings seem to be fine except for some scale on it, which I suspect is causing the poor seal. I just soaked them in vinegar, lubed lightly with silicone grease and they have been holding well.
    5. There are 2 sizes of O rings, and some fittings have double stacked rings. Take note so you replace them the right way.

  33. #2633
    Senior Member artman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by argus View Post
    Any tips on the easiest way to access the o-ring on the side of the steam boiler please?
    At the moment it bubbles and hisses during heat up but seems to seal once it is up to temp but I have a feeling it won’t last much longer.
    If it is a boiler out job is there a good step by step that someone could link to please?
    Thanks
    WHat you are hearing is normal. Its the boiler getting up to temp. as it starts to boil some steam gurgles out of the anti vac valve, which soon pops shut once sufficient pressure has built up.

    O rings are easy replace, as noted above. Be careful of the little metal inserts in the end of the tubes. SOmetimes they can be a bit loose.

    Cheers

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    Thought I'd post a follow up to my last message regarding sending my BES920 in for a quote for servicing.

    note: I changed the solenoid myself late last week before taking it in.

    The weird thing is "Bravo Repairs " state on the repair list that it requires a new solenoid .. How the heck does that work ?

    They also said there's a hole in boiler and it requires a new pump and head.... they said it's not worth repairing.

    So to cut a long story short.... I ended up using the $80 I originally forked up for the initial repair quote towards a re-furbished Oracle BES980.

    I have the BES920 here and now a BES980...

    The Oracle set me back $650AU

    Not a bad price yes ?

    I figured I'd need grinder with my ole 920 (since I don't own one being new to the world of coffee machines).

    I was looking over the Grinder Pro for $190AU so might as well fork out for the Oracle.

    I sort of miss tamping though

  35. #2635
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    Hi everyone,
    I am looking for some help. My BES920 is not getting past 57 degrees c. The group head heter is fine and the steam boiler is fine but the water boiler is not heating. Is there a fuse or something similar that could be the issue?

  36. #2636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colm View Post
    Hi everyone,
    I am looking for some help. My BES920 is not getting past 57 degrees c. The group head heter is fine and the steam boiler is fine but the water boiler is not heating. Is there a fuse or something similar that could be the issue?
    Any other history, as in what we're you doing with the machine leading up to discovering this? How old is the machine, how is it used? Sounds like the heating element in the brew boiler not heating. Could be due to faulty element, thermal fuse, control relay, thermostat...

  37. #2637
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colm View Post
    Hi everyone,
    I am looking for some help. My BES920 is not getting past 57 degrees c. The group head heter is fine and the steam boiler is fine but the water boiler is not heating. Is there a fuse or something similar that could be the issue?
    Could be one of 3 things: the NTC sensor, heating element/thermostat/thermal fuse set up or the triac board. But you need some knowledge of electrical work and a meter to test.

    1. If the brew temperature readout rises when machine is turned on, then the NTC sensor is probably fine and reading the brew water temp being passively heated by the group head heater
    2. The heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse is wired in series, so you need a meter to see if there is an open circuit. If there is, you can easily zero in on the problem part.
    3. If all fails, then its probably the triac board. Sometimes gets cranky when steam from a leaky boiler O ring condenses on it.

  38. #2638
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banksy View Post
    The weird thing is "Bravo Repairs " state on the repair list that it requires a new solenoid .. How the heck does that work ?
    I have to confess - I have trust issues. Every time something is getting serviced or repaired I feel like I am not being told the truth.

    If you think about it... For a service centre testing and troubleshooting - their expenses, replacing everything - your expenses.

    Probably by looking at the condition of other things they assumed solenoid valve is not good too.

  39. #2639
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Any other history, as in what we're you doing with the machine leading up to discovering this? How old is the machine, how is it used? Sounds like the heating element in the brew boiler not heating. Could be due to faulty element, thermal fuse, control relay, thermostat...
    The machine is around 3 years old, no previous problems that I recall. I use the machine 4 to 6 times daily, carbon filtered water down to .5um , descaled when asked for with no issues.
    It is 100% the brew boiler element not heating as I can feel the steam and group head get warm.
    No strange noises that I'm aware of and no other problems that I'm aware of other than the usual o'rings needing replacing. When the issue first happened, I thought that it might be a leak so I opened it up and found several small leaks around the teflon pipes and replaced all the leaking ones with new '007 silicone o'rings.
    I have just found the fuse and will see if I can get a replacement one from Jaycar tomorrow but any other advice would be great. I live 50km out of town so it's a pain in the bum to nip into town get parts.

    Cheers

  40. #2640
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    Thanks everyone with your responses, I managed to fix it by replacing the small fuse that is wrapped around the boiler. A total of 2+ months ,asking questions and researching it to find that it was a 5 minute fix costing a total of $3.50

  41. #2641
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colm View Post
    A total of 2+ months ,asking questions and researching it to find that it was a 5 minute fix costing a total of $3.50
    Like someone said earlier... That's what you are paying for at service centre - not parts and labour but expertise.

  42. #2642
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    So I was in a rush to make my coffee this morning. I activated my two shot and started my stream maybe 5 sec after temp reached 93deg, but I was getting very weak pressure and steam.

    Anyone else experienced this?

    Tried the same double shot and steam maybe 45 sec later and it was ok (decent pressure and steam).

  43. #2643
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    The steam boiler is not ready as soon as the brew boiler hits temp (in your case 93°C). If you listen carefully when you raise the steam lever before it's ready it will beep three times to indicate it's not ready yet. If you wait approx. 2 min after the buttons light up the steam will be ready at full power. It's a bit ridiculous but Breville and other appliance type coffee machine manufacturers are always chasing the fastest heat up time to put on the box. They even recommend giving it 15min to warn up completely.

  44. #2644
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    May 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    They even recommend giving it 15min to warn up completely.
    Really?...

    My machine shuts itself down after 15 minutes of warmup (idling) - most hateful feature since upgrade.
    clubbi4 likes this.

  45. #2645
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    Nov 2014
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    Hi guys,

    we've been having a couple of issues with our 920 for the past couple of weeks. the main symptom is the (steam?) filler pump coming on but not pumping any water. after draining the machine via the descaler access, it seems to pump just fine and give us a handful of coffees before doing it again.

    the other symptom is main boiler gurgling at the start of brewing a shot.

    i've replaced the brew pump in the last few months, and the solenoid a few months prior to that. over the past few days i've replaced almost all the o-rings but still can't find a solution.

    anyone have any ideas?

  46. #2646
    Junior Member
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by jztilly View Post
    the other symptom is main boiler gurgling at the start of brewing a shot.
    I can't comment on the first issue, but the gurgling of the brew boiler I also have. It is just an annoyance for me presently. I believe it to be either air or steam in the line feeding the brew boiler. As the line comes into the brew boiler, it is feed through a pipe from the top of the boiler to the bottom of the boiler. What you are hearing is bubbles (probably air rather than steam) bubbling to the top. How the air has got in there, I don't know. I've also changed all the orings and replaced the brew pump recently and there are no apparent leaks.

    I originally thought it was steam due to the pre heating of the brew boiler water as it passes through the steam boiler. But thinking about it, I'm not sure that steam in the line would behave this way. If it is steam, then as cracked heat exchanger pipe in the steam boiler may be possible, but I would expect other more significant symptoms too.

    I'm not sure why the gurgling is happening now and not when it was newer??

    Comments from others would be welcome.

  47. #2647
    Junior Member
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by jztilly View Post
    the other symptom is main boiler gurgling at the start of brewing a shot.
    I can't comment on the first issue, but the gurgling of the brew boiler I also have. It is just an annoyance for me presently. I believe it to be either air or steam in the line feeding the brew boiler. As the line comes into the brew boiler, it is feed through a pipe from the top of the boiler to the bottom of the boiler. What you are hearing is bubbles (probably air rather than steam) bubbling to the top. How the air has got in there, I don't know. I've also changed all the orings and replaced the brew pump recently and there are no apparent leaks.

    I originally thought it was steam due to the pre heating of the brew boiler water as it passes through the steam boiler. But thinking about it, I'm not sure that steam in the line would behave this way. If it is steam, then as cracked heat exchanger pipe in the steam boiler may be possible, but I would expect other more significant symptoms too.

    I'm not sure why the gurgling is happening now and not when it was newer??

    Comments from others would be welcome.

  48. #2648
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    20
    Hi Guys

    Been a long time since I've been here.

    Today, the BES starting steaming from out of the drip tray. I turned it off with the front button and this didn't stop it steaming so I unpluged it from the power completely which did stop the symptom. Let things cool down for an hour or 2 and then plugged back and turned on at the power point, but left the front button off and at least one of the boilers appears to be heating up as the gurgle commenced.

    Has anyone had any experience like this ?

    I'm guessing the electronics may be faulty - I have had o-ring leaks and replaced them, but perhaps the damage is done.

    All help would be greatly appreciated.
    Ben

  49. #2649
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    Could be the relay has welded closed, could be an issue with the triac from the internal leaking. The good news so far is that it seems to not have blown the thermal fuse or killed the element, yet. If you let it continue our almost certainly will do one of those.

    When your turn the power point on next time have your head close to the machine. Do you hear a small click sound? If yes the problem is the triac, if no could be any or all of the above.

  50. #2650
    Junior Member
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    Jul 2006
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    20
    Thanks for the the response level3ninja

    I’ve got it open and no clicking on power up. I’ll let it dry out and then pull the board off the lid and see what we can see.

    Upgraditis is taking hold.



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