What do you think of the baratza sette 270? ...$439 is the cheapest I can find at the moment.
Originally Posted by level3ninja
Then again, what about the 920 dual with the baratza sette 270?
Now I'm confused, again ... :}
The Rancilio Silvia V5 Espresso can be bought for $919, do I really need a dual boiler?
My daily consumption is either a short black or a latte whilst the other half enjoys a Cappuccino and occasionally makes the same for a couple of friends ...
At this price compared to the $899 for the dual 920 would I be correct in assuming that most experienced members here would recommend the Silvia?
Yes the 920 will allow that. If you just want something straightforward that will do that a Sunbeam EM7000 will be cheaper and simpler.
Originally Posted by Cinta_Kopi
The 270 will be a good step up from the BCG820. Other options include the Rancilio Rocky, Macap M2 series, Compak K3 series, Mahlkoenig Vario.
Originally Posted by level3ninja
How about this combo then ... Rancilio Silvia (V5) and Rocky Grinder Package A$1,349.00
I want to be able to make the best coffee I can for no more than $1500, bugger the wife's guests ;}
I wouldn't recommend anyone buy the Silvia new. It's essentially a slightly larger version of your Classic. It doesn't have a PID so you'll have to do temperature surfing and cooling flushes etc, and the coffee won't be any better. If you want something that's more metal than plastic look at the Lelit PL41TEMD (still a single boiler though).
Ok I've done some reading and decided I need to do a lot more reading, }
In the meantime learn how to get the best out of our Gaggia.
Thanks for the feedback,
The Lelit is tempting.
I plan on storing my machine for several months. Can I drain the boilers by simply unscrewing the “descale access” screws?
Yes. But depending on when you did your last deacale, I would do one before I store it.
Originally Posted by mskreis
I "upgraded" from a Silvia to a BES920 which has since started to play up after a few years of ownership. I pulled the Silvia back out of storage (after nearly giving it away when I got the Breville) and to be honest the temp surfing and how long it takes to make more than one coffee is doing my head in after getting use to life with a dual boiler so already got a case of upgraditis and am now looking at a HX machine.
Originally Posted by Cinta_Kopi
The Silvia will likely outlive the Breville (although be careful, the base is not stainless and mine has rusted and drip tray has become stuck). The Silvia is a great machine if you are an espresso drinker and only doing the odd milk-based drink but I don't think they are value for money at their current price point any more.
Trying to get a feel for whether I should be assuming my BES920 is close to carking it. A few months ago I started to find the pre-infusion was giving me issues (sounded bad/often led to shots being cut short) so as a workaround I turned off the pre-infusion after initially trying to fiddle with the settings.
Now the machine is pulling shots "ok" but the pressure is noticeably lower than it was when the machine was newer. Whereas with the cleaning disc in the machine would hover at around 9-9.5 bar it now struggles to get to 8. While pulling shots it'll be around the 6.5-7.5 range. The coffee is still acceptable (I don't have an amazing palette) and looks like it's flowing about as I'd expect.
Thoughts? Is the pump slowly dying? I'm not adverse to getting it repaired (it's never been serviced!), any ideas on how much I should expect to be paying for the service/repair?
If you've opened the carton, it's just a matter of time
Take it to Breville and they will give you an estimate on how dying it is...
You're not giving much info:
Originally Posted by nickdenham
How old is the machine
Have you descaled on a regular basis
Do you back flush ???
I think you're looking at a minimum of $250+
I have a Breville BES920 and in the last week or so, the steam wand is taking a longer amount of time to heat milk. It also makes a screaming sound when the milk finally gets to a decent heated temperature. The wand also drips a little (very minimal, and not all the time.)
anyone had similar issues? From my research the dripping from the wand could well be the valve (part SP0001713) may need replacing. Would this also be causing the assumed pressure issue from the wand?
any help would be much appreciated!
Maybe your steam tip is starting to get clogged up with residue from steaming milk?
Originally Posted by stuart94
I would unscrew the steam tip, and soak it in a mix of hot water and the same solution you (hopefully) use to backflush your machine with from time to time. Once it's soaked for a bit, get a toothpick to further clear the holes.
ok, will give that a go.
Originally Posted by Jaya
Check the tools you got with it. There is a small plastic tool that has a pin to clean the holes.
Originally Posted by stuart94
Apologies, you're right I was slightly vague!
Originally Posted by Erimus
1. It's coming on 6 years old
2. I descaled it only once in the first 3 years (when prompted) but have done it a bit more frequently (maybe once a year) and once every 6 months in the last year. To be fair it's only averaging 1 coffee a day though over that entire time.
3. I back flush after every use (i.e. before turning it off).
thanks for the estimate, I assumed it was at least that much given the parts cost look to be around the $150~ mark.
I have a new fault!!!
Cold clean water is slowly leaking from under the drip tray. The machine otherwise works fine so i suspect it leaking from the water tank inlet valve somewhere. But i cant work out how to get to that area of the machine. Any ideas please?
Can someone please point me in the right direction- I assume there is mention of this issue somewhere.
My steam lever is getting stiff to lift when I go to turn steam on when the machine has been hot for a while. Less noticeable when it's cooler. Is there somewhere I need to lube or something requiring replacement? Not leaking steam or water anywhere. Machine is about 4 years old.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by robdridan; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:40 PM.
I've now had my machine for 2 and a half years now (out of warranty, feel such a fool I didn't get the extended warranty from the good guys), with no problems until the last week.
When I turn on the machine, the temp won't settle at the set temp of 94deg but soars upwards past 110deg without stopping until I shut it down.
I'm scared to leave it on in case the temp gets so high the boilers get damaged.
Initially, I thought the problem was a faulty/broken thermostat on the pump, but now I am led to believe it is a bad triac board.
Can anyone conform or dispute my diagnosis before I order a new triac board?
Guess I'll also need to replace a bunch of o-rings, since I have read they generally need replacing annually.
The thermostat, triac and relay are all involved in switchig the element on and off, which of them it is I can't say based on the info you've given. Does it heat when it's turned on at the power point but without the machine being turned on? Can you hear a click when turning the machine on and off (will be faint with the cover on)?
Can't hear a click when turned on at the power point, but I did notice a lot of water bubbling out of one of the connectors leading to what I think is the steam boiler.
So I'd say there is corrosion and water damage on some circuits/components near to that.
Think I'll just take it in to be repaired.
Open the top as you did and let it dry out first. Even use a hairdryer to speed things up and leave it open while you use it. It may just be moisture on the board from an oring.
Originally Posted by DamianS
My naked PF which I bought direct from Breville just snapped in two when I clamped it onto the group head. Rather than grumble at Breville and demand another, is it relatively easy to get a wood conversion done on it?
Breville is very accomodating. The rubber on my PF was tearing to bits and they sent me a new one. Then you can play with this one as much as you like
Originally Posted by theonetruepath
Yup they said they would send out another. I offered a high res pic which they said yes to. So I broke out the macro gear, turns out there was a significant defect which you can see easily without macro lenses, if you just turn over the PF and look at the top of the plastic under the rubber ring.E06_7619CLAweb.jpgE06_7620CLAweb.jpg
Recently I bought a tidy-looking BDB to play with & compare with my pidded Silvia.
It pours steam out the left side of the drip tray. There were vidible leaks around
the top of the boiler so I replaced all the little o-rings with new Viton ones.
The leaks up top have stopped but steam still purs out the left sidevof the drip tray,
even when the machine is turned off.
Plugged in, turned off and it gets up steam & keeps boiling.
Could this mean a faulty triac board?
My 920 heats up, makes steam & pulls a nice shot but the steam then pours out the left side of the drip tray until I unplug it.
Switch it off & the lights go out but it keeps boiling until unplugged.
Where should I look/test to identify the culprit component?
Thanks to you all for your fantastic support.
Yeah pretty typical behaviour, steam leaks short out part of the triac board causing the element to run constantly. Most often affects the steam boiler circuit.
Originally Posted by Shortie
Remove the triac board from the top cover (machine off AND unplugged) and hit it with a heat gun for a while. Sometimes if you dry it out well enough it can resume normal operation but if that doesn't work, you'll need to replace it.
Another member tried component level repairing it, can't remember if they succeeded or not. It was the optoisolator that had failed on his I think.
If I remember correctly the board has heat sink paste on it to transfer the heat to the top. This acts as a large heat sink and cup warmer. Either dry it without removing or get fresh paste from Ebay. You don’t need much. If you were close to me I would give you some.
Been having a few issues with my BES920 recently which led me to changing the coffee brew pump and putting new o-ring seals throughout the machine.. this is in addition to replacing the solenoid valve about 6 months ago.
I was closing up the machine after installing the new pump and found this..
This connection is from the steam opv to the steam boiler. So much scale build up that in attempting to remove the fitting the plastic hose came off and the nipple is stuck inside the boiler opening along with the o-ring.
Anyone swapped out the steam boiler in one of these machines before/are the parts even available/is it even worth the effort or am I better off just turfing this unit and buying s new one? I’ve got a solid 5 years out of it now.
Last edited by jnorwood; 1 Week Ago at 08:02 PM.
You are massively ahead of the game with 5 years of operation. Of course that's not a reason to chuck it, usually the opposite. But these machines are engineered to last 'at least two years' and many of them don't quite make that. So the componentry in general is not going to be much chop after three years let alone 5. To proceed with repairs on this machine is now a hobby not a paying proposition. IMO of course. So in other words, only if you like working on intransigent failing machinery. I don't, many do.
Originally Posted by jnorwood
You could look for a cheap on marketplace lace 920 that has problems. You can build the best of both units leaving yourself with parts.
Originally Posted by jnorwood
Thanks for your input. I'd like to say I've taken good care of it but I obviously omitted to change the o-ring in that particular connection for the entire time I've owned the machine. In my defence it is quite hard to see
I think I've decided to upgrade to something that will last me a few decades. Love the look of the Lilit Bianca - just need to convince the other half that it's a justifiable purchase
Okay so the deed is done. Purchased a new machine today.. I can't seem to start a new thread in the hardware for sale section so given its relevant to any Breville DBer owners out there I'll just post it here.
BES920 Dual Boiler for sale - not in working condition.. see posts above. However would be very useful as a spares machine. I have replaced the following:
- Solenoid valve ($80 replaced June 19)
- Steamer ball arm valve ($88 June 19)
- New Ulka brewer pump ($35.95 Oct 19)
- Breville 900 series service kit ($17.95)
This is over $220 in parts I've recently put through the machine. Other than the service boiler the rest of the machine is in fine working condition to the best of my knowledge.
I'm only looking to recover the cost of the parts I recently installed into the machine including the postage I paid so I'm asking $250 for the machine. PM me if interested. Pick up from Greensborough, Victoria
Also selling the Breville Smart Grinder for $100
New dual boiler/smart grinder owner here... I've gotten my single shots to the point where I'm pretty happy with the taste, but if I switch to a double shot, I don't get quite the same taste, and the pressure gauge reads much lower than pulling a single shot. I think I'm using an equivalent dose (same grind coarsness, weight higher, and grounds to the same height according to the 'razor') in the double shot basket.
The other weirdness is actually with the single shot basket - it's leaving the puck 'stuck' to the shower screen, so I may be overdosing, but I can't figure out how. Perhaps relevant - with the single shot basket installed I think the whole assembly rotates further when locking it in... But the coffee is good!
Any suggestions? I am very much a novice with manual coffee machines, so it's likely I'm doing something stupid...
How many grams are you dosing in the single basket and how many in the double? You'll have to change your grind setting between the single and double baskets.
14 grams in the single and from memory 21 in the double.
When changing from single to double I've been changing grind time to get to the weight I want, but not the fineness - should I be going finer for a double? I guess that could explain the underpressure with double shots?
Grind setting and extraction time should be the same for a single and double. The number of perforations in the baskets allow for the different coffee weight.
But 14 grams for a single seems waaay overweight, and in pedantic Italian terms would constitute a double (7 grams for a single).
Hence puck sticking to the shower screen. The opposite---having too little coffee -- results in a very watery puck.
In reality grind setting has to change for pretty much every brand of basket. Breville is no exception. Their singles are bigger than most but I think 12g is a better dose. 18-20g for the double. Sounds like you need to grind finer overall and dose a bit less. As a rule of thumb you normally need to grind finer for single baskets than for double baskets.
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