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Thread: Breville BES920 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

  1. #2801
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    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Oh that’s interesting, my single basket puck does get stuck on the screen. I also can’t get a good tamp unless I have around 13 gms give or take. I have the smart grinder pro and have my timer setting on around 12-12.6 with grind size around 10 to get a good pour. Quite happy with it the machine is a Xmas present to my wife for $980 at Bing Lee with the grinder.
    Last edited by damirvrkic; 28th December 2019 at 06:53 AM.

  2. #2802
    Senior Member Erimus's Avatar
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    ^^^
    Your puck will always stick to the screen as you're massively overdosing to get what you call a good tamp. 10/11 grams is sufficient and a light tamp is all that is necessary, a heavy handed tamp is a myth that won't go away.

  3. #2803
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    Gees that I never thought of. If I only add 10/11 gms it seems not enough coffee and when I tamp it stops at that lip as the basket is not straight wall like the double. Think I’ve already tried lower gms and the coffee flows too fast. I’ll try again and play with the grind size make it finer.

  4. #2804
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    Tried 10/11 gms and it feels itís not enough in the basket. Barely tamp it and the resulting puck is watery telling me itís not enough ground. Measured 12gms which is around 11.4 time and a grind size of 7 on my smart grinder pro seems much better. My blends currently have 50% decaf wow and Iím guessing some beans are just heavier than others. I roast my own beans too much with a modified popper close to 2nd crack. Iíve used store bought lavazza espresso to test the machine and that is a different setting all together, chokes at more courser settings.

    using the breville razor Leveler thingy I think I can settle at whatever gms for the single basket as long as it has a decent tamp (I donít tamp hard) and a level around where the single basket wall starts to bend inwards.

  5. #2805
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    FWIW getting a single basket to run well is pretty hard and almost impossible if you use a double basket too without changing grind size. You might have more luck using the double and either saving the second shot (chuck it in a sealable jug and make iced coffee later) or grinding finer and making ristrettos (same dose as a double, same running time but ground finer so you get less coffee). Either way you should end up with a sweeter, less strong coffee.

  6. #2806
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    Quote Originally Posted by mthomas87 View Post
    FWIW getting a single basket to run well is pretty hard and almost impossible if you use a double basket too without changing grind size. You might have more luck using the double and either saving the second shot (chuck it in a sealable jug and make iced coffee later) or grinding finer and making ristrettos (same dose as a double, same running time but ground finer so you get less coffee). Either way you should end up with a sweeter, less strong coffee.

    thanks mthomas,

    that iced coffee gives me an idea, especially in this warmer weather. And the ristretto idea too.

    also the double is really only another 6-7gms might just give that a go. Thanks for the advice.

  7. #2807
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    Also makes pretty tasty espresso martinis

    For most of the coffee I use I find that 20-21 grams in the double basket on the BES920 works great
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  8. #2808
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    Anyone have a solution to the grind clogging under the impeller of the Breville smart grinder Pro BCG820B. I didn't buy together with my BES920BSS as I thought I would stick with the EM0480 after recently putting in new burrs. I then was able to buy for around $174 so went ahead thinking that the impeller upgrade to stainless would fix earlier problems. I use a dark roast from Melb. roaster so has a little more oil but I am frustrated by grinds clogging the impeller and below. I now feel I have to take the top and bottom burrs out plus impeller to brush everything down and even then vacuum won't dislodge grinds and it takes a while to brush them all out. The first time I did this the felt spacer virtually fell apart so I have made up a few of my own so that it fits around the spacer washers and snug fits in the impeller recess. I have tried the trick of using wet spoon handle in small amount of beans in the hopper as per James Hoffmann suggestion and others but hasn't worked for me.

  9. #2809
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    There is a separate thread for the BCG820 in the grinders section.

    Sounds like the oil from your beans is making the grinding path sticky. How often are you cleaning it?

  10. #2810
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    Thanks level3ninja.
    Cleaning under burrs every day as it is obvious looking down after removing top burr that it is clogged underneath. Because the outlet is very small and the impeller tends not to sweep right to the bottom I can understand what is happening. As you say oilier beans will make the problem worse.
    Last edited by KB; 2nd January 2020 at 01:45 PM.

  11. #2811
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    * Moved discussion to Grinders: New Breville BCG820 "smart Grinder Pro"

  12. #2812
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    I've bought a 2nd hand BES920 back in mid 2019. I didn't know I could actually remove the shower screen since the first time I tried it, it didn't budge. But recently, I've tried it again and it did the same thing.

    Can someone tell me what else can I do other than trying to remove it by force?

  13. #2813
    Coffee Newbie okitoki's Avatar
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    Having the dosing issue too. Just sold my 900 and had the same grind setting for 18g. 9 bar easy on the 900. But was getting 5 bar on the 920.

    Grind the 18g dose a lot finer and finally got it to 9bar before dropping to 8.

    Used grind was pretty Wet.

    Checked using the razor doser thingy and noticed my grind was lower by around 2mm.

    Is the new basket bigger?

  14. #2814
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    I've bought a 2nd hand BES920 back in mid 2019. I didn't know I could actually remove the shower screen since the first time I tried it, it didn't budge. But recently, I've tried it again and it did the same thing.

    Can someone tell me what else can I do other than trying to remove it by force?
    So you've taken the screw out and the screen won't come down? Might have to buy a replacement then use tools. You may also need the black plastic thing that suits above the screen, they're not terribly expensive I'd get one with the screen just in case.

  15. #2815
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    So you've taken the screw out and the screen won't come down? Might have to buy a replacement then use tools. You may also need the black plastic thing that suits above the screen, they're not terribly expensive I'd get one with the screen just in case.
    Same as above. Give it a little love tap.

    If you do get parts, get both and while your at it get another group seal.
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  16. #2816
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    The screw won't unscrew no matter how hard I try. I'm guessing the previous owner didn't do much cleaning so something must've built up inside. I've did a round of usual backlash, won't unscrew. Turned off the machine for hours and tried again, same result.

  17. #2817
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    The screw won't unscrew no matter how hard I try. I'm guessing the previous owner didn't do much cleaning so something must've built up inside. I've did a round of usual backlash, won't unscrew. Turned off the machine for hours and tried again, same result.
    Grab something like a toothpick and clean out the alan key hole. It is probably full of grinds. Then toothbrush it out. Now try again making sure it goes all the way in.

  18. #2818
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    OK Guys, help needed.

    i have replaced my screen and the black spreader under it as it was cracked. All has been good then a few weeks ago it started to not want to get up to 9bar and stay there. my grinder pro has dropped from 6 to 1 and i am using the usual 20g in a double basket. it gets to 9 then drops to say 8 by 15s then 7ish by 25. With a blind filter that i use to flush i can get it to 10bad steady. i will tell you that im in sydney and the weather is HOT with low humidity. Im thinking this may be a factor. I have taken the screen and spreader off and sll is clean and in good condition. I am at a loss

    TIA Boris

  19. #2819
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    Is the flow out of the portafilter matching what the gauge is reading (i.e. flow speeds up a lot as the pressure drops)? If so it indicates that the puck resistance is dropping off through the shot. This would typically be seen where someone has compensated for a grinder not going fine enough by increasing the dose, but in your case it's probably the weather. I would suggest you grind finer (adjust the main setting to 20 or 30 and then change the inner burr setting). If you're already down to 6 normally it won't hurt to move up the scale a bit. If it all returns to normal with the weather it'll give you room to move if it happens again.

    Or does the flow slow down as the pressure drops? In this case it could indicate the pump showing its age and needing replacing (probably worth doing the OPV at the same time).

  20. #2820
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Is the flow out of the portafilter matching what the gauge is reading (i.e. flow speeds up a lot as the pressure drops)? If so it indicates that the puck resistance is dropping off through the shot. This would typically be seen where someone has compensated for a grinder not going fine enough by increasing the dose, but in your case it's probably the weather. I would suggest you grind finer (adjust the main setting to 20 or 30 and then change the inner burr setting). If you're already down to 6 normally it won't hurt to move up the scale a bit. If it all returns to normal with the weather it'll give you room to move if it happens again.

    Or does the flow slow down as the pressure drops? In this case it could indicate the pump showing its age and needing replacing (probably worth doing the OPV at the same time).
    Flow speeds up. I have the grinder all the way down at 1 atm with top burr still at 6. Iím thinking weather.

  21. #2821
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    If the top burr is still set to 6 then I'd suggest you set it to 5. It's only going to move the main setting by about 10-20 points but will give you more range at espresso settings.
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  22. #2822
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    If the top burr is still set to 6 then I'd suggest you set it to 5. It's only going to move the main setting by about 10-20 points but will give you more range at espresso settings.
    Oh ok ... i didnt realise that the top burr moved so much. i assumed that it was a micro adjustment for the setting you were on ... SO please advise then. If currently set to 1 with burr6 and i change burr to 5, what would be my equivalent grind number to stat at

    Boris

  23. #2823
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    I don't know exactly what number it will be, you'll have to dial it in again. If you move the main dial to 25 before changing it you'll be close but probably a bit too coarse.

  24. #2824
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    I don't know exactly what number it will be, you'll have to dial it in again. If you move the main dial to 25 before changing it you'll be close but probably a bit too coarse.
    had problems again this morning so decided to pull my other blend out. ground up 20g at all the same settings and it got to 9.5 and dropped to 9. As i had now run out i went to see my dealer for some new product. grinder on 5 and 20g got me 9bar with a fresh batch. Must have just been that batch of beans as i have been using the same roaster for 18 months without a problem.

    Oh and i set the upper burr to 5 but i am still grinding at setting 6

    thanks for your help
    Boris

  25. #2825
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    You might still be grinding finer, just activating the OPV for more of the shot?
    All's well that ends in good coffee

  26. #2826
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    You might still be grinding finer, just activating the OPV for more of the shot?
    All's well that ends in good coffee
    when i make a coffee later today i will bring the grind back a little to see what the result is. i know what you mean so if i can go a little courser and get it to 9 would be better ... im still wondering what the problem with tho other batch was.

  27. #2827
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    Sounds like stale beans, if they've been overheated they will go stale very quickly.
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  28. #2828
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOR15 View Post
    Grab something like a toothpick and clean out the alan key hole. It is probably full of grinds. Then toothbrush it out. Now try again making sure it goes all the way in.
    Tried that already. Even turned the machine upside down and tried to unscrew using the hex key, but this time, holding the hex key with a plier. It simply won't budge. Perth doesn't have a Breville service centre so I'm not too sure where else I can seek help to remove the shower screen. Any ideas?

  29. #2829
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    Tried that already. Even turned the machine upside down and tried to unscrew using the hex key, but this time, holding the hex key with a plier. It simply won't budge. Perth doesn't have a Breville service centre so I'm not too sure where else I can seek help to remove the shower screen. Any ideas?
    If there were an N and I in your suburb name I would say bring it to mine to have a look.

    Turn it upside down again. Go to a tool place and get a good long Alan key. Get it in and give it a few taps with a hammer. I did say taps not belts. It should work loose.

  30. #2830
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    Tried that already. Even turned the machine upside down and tried to unscrew using the hex key, but this time, holding the hex key with a plier. It simply won't budge. Perth doesn't have a Breville service centre so I'm not too sure where else I can seek help to remove the shower screen. Any ideas?
    So it's not the shower screen but the screw that won't come out? That's more of a problem. You may need to employ more traditional machining methods. If you start using penetrating oils they aren't food safe so lots of rinsing and reseasoning will be required. A longer Allen key with squarer edges may do the trick.

  31. #2831
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    Yep. Apologies. It's the screw that stayed in place. Looks like I will have to go Bunnings to get some allen key. FYI the force I applied on the allen key with my plier twisted the key a bit. Probably do a chemical clean cycle as well and hope it might help.

  32. #2832
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    Breville BES920 Dual Boiler - Owners thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    Yep. Apologies. It's the screw that stayed in place. Looks like I will have to go Bunnings to get some allen key. FYI the force I applied on the allen key with my plier twisted the key a bit. Probably do a chemical clean cycle as well and hope it might help.
    The Alan keys we get are soft. Do you have tool store like Sydney tools? You can get a stronger Alan key or the correct size star drive would also work. Or go to a repco/super cheap and get the specific one that fits a small socket if you have one. Now you will be able to tap if with a hammer then use the socket drive to remove it.

  33. #2833
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaysian View Post
    Yep. Apologies. It's the screw that stayed in place. Looks like I will have to go Bunnings to get some allen key. FYI the force I applied on the allen key with my plier twisted the key a bit. Probably do a chemical clean cycle as well and hope it might help.
    In such a situation, I would use a small impact driver with a hex bit. Use a little penetrating oil 30 mins before the attempt. Its not food safe, but if you wash it away after use, any remnants won't kill you.
    Metals expand when they are hot so try it when the machine is cold.
    If you don't have an impact driver, get the longest allen key you can get, and or maybe use a tightening wrench with it.
    The previous owner may have tried to remove the screen but ended up tightening it instead.

    If that still won't budge, the hex screw may have rusted in. In which case you will have to get nasty, heating the screw with a soldering iron, small blow torch or welder.

  34. #2834
    Coffee Newbie okitoki's Avatar
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    One thing I noticed with my new 920 is the filter is no longer the old charcoal filter lump, but the new BES008WHT filter?
    can I still use the old style filter from the 900 series?

  35. #2835
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    Quote Originally Posted by okitoki View Post
    One thing I noticed with my new 920 is the filter is no longer the old charcoal filter lump, but the new BES008WHT filter?
    can I still use the old style filter from the 900 series?
    As long as you have the old style filter holder as well, then yes you can. The bit it clips onto at the bottom of the water tank hasn't changed. My 4.5 year old filter holder broke the other day, had to order a new one from the US.

  36. #2836
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    As long as you have the old style filter holder as well, then yes you can. The bit it clips onto at the bottom of the water tank hasn't changed. My 4.5 year old filter holder broke the other day, had to order a new one from the US.
    how much did that cost? I dont have my old one anymore

  37. #2837
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    Approx $35 inc postage to Sydney. I'll send you a PM
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  38. #2838
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    Recently started getting a lack of pressure and leaking around the group head so I swapped out the screen and seal but now it's leaking even worse when pulling a shot. Is there a trick to reinstalling it? It looks fairly straight forward so not sure what I've missed.

  39. #2839
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    Quote Originally Posted by DamianS View Post
    Use a little penetrating oil 30 mins before the attempt. Its not food safe, but if you wash it away after use, any remnants won't kill you.
    Inox MX3 FG is Food Grade Lubricant which displaces moisture, penetrates corrosion and yada yada.
    It is Kosher certified too.

    The can says it doesn't contain kerosine. But it really smells like kerosine to me.

    I would still prefer cleanup over broken screw extraction.

    Edit: I just discovered the manufacture of Inox Lubricants is a Queensland based company Candan Industries Pty Ltd.
    Now I know why some people prefer it over other Water-Displacing sprays.

  40. #2840
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    Hello all fellow Brev owners.

    From my experience with several machines, when replacing the shower screen screw, do not screw it very tight as with heating and cooling it may jam.

    Barry.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gerbi View Post
    Inox MX3 FG is Food Grade Lubricant which displaces moisture, penetrates corrosion and yada yada.
    It is Kosher certified too.

    The can says it doesn't contain kerosine. But it really smells like kerosine to me.
    A quick update on Inox lubricant.
    After posting this I went to Inox website and left them a message asking if they improved MX3 FG since I purchased my last can.

    I got a call from Steve from Candan Industries Pty Ltd today. He told few things about Inox MX3.
    They don't use kerosine or any petroleum based substances. It is a refined mineral oil with anti-corrosion additions. This anti-corrosion component does smell.
    The original MX3 is food grade by Australian standards. But to pass international NSF certification they had to reduce amount of anti-corrosion component. So they released MX3 FG. The only difference between MX3 and MX3 FG is reduced amount of anti-corrosion additions. Under NSF certification it is "odourless". It is still gonna smell but it will smell a bit less than the one purchased few years ago.
    Also please note MX3 FG is H1 class NSF certified which is "Acceptable for use where there is incidental food contact".

    TL'DR
    There is no kerosine in it. It will still smell. But it won't kill you.

  42. #2842
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    Has anyone got any tips for removing the tubes from the boiler to replace the o rings? In particular the tube at the steam boiler (the one that goes to the steam valve) is stuck and wont budge. I can twist the teflon tube a few degrees and it gives, but it looks like it is twisting inside the olive. I have tried dribbling vinegar into the recess over the last few days to let it soak but still no luck. The olive is fully inside the recess so no easy way to try and give it a bit of a nudge to get some movement. All other connections removed without issues.

    Cheers

  43. #2843
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crema_Lad View Post
    Hi All! I’ve been quiet on here for a while but up until recently a very happy BES920 owner! That was until upgraditis struck

    So if anyone is interested in a well cared for, lightly used machine (2-3 coffees a day) with extras check out my listing in the MarketPlace forums.
    Which model did you replace BES920?

  44. #2844
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    Hey all! first time post - ive been happily reading away up until my machine went and died on me sigh.

    Machine was shooting over temp, got to close to 110, suspected orings as often mentioned. Left machine off, and a few weeks later picked up some orings, replaced all i could reach from the top (mainly on top of the boilers) and went to turn on again.

    Now im getting the display showing heating to 50/60 degrees and stays flashing.

    Steam seems to work fine, but just the temp display staying low. Discovered if i run the hot water outlet the temp raises slowly till around 75 but no further.

    Seems a bit strange, as the steam boiler seems to heat fine, and the display shows the probe heating but just not high enough. almost feels like a bubbble but ive bled both steam and hot water out plenty, and no change.

    If anyone has an ideas that could save me from stripping it down to get to the thermal fuse (somewhere under the boiler i hear?) that would be super appreciated..

    Thanks guys and gals!

  45. #2845
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    The main temperature display is for the brew boiler. It sounds like you have some sort of issue with the heating in the brew boiler but not in the steam boiler. When you run the hot water the reason it heats up more is because the pathway for fresh water into the brew boiler is via a heat exchanger like setup in the steam boiler (it preheats the water by the pipes running through the steam boiler). If you're lucky it's only the thermal fuse on the brew boiler.

  46. #2846
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    Thank you! do you happen to know where the thermal fuse for the brew boiler is located/looks like? Ive seen a few references to the one underneath the steam boiler but have heard the brew boiler may be on the side?

    Sorry for the questions..

  47. #2847
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWater View Post
    Machine was shooting over temp, got to close to 110, suspected orings as often mentioned. Left machine off, and a few weeks later picked up some orings, replaced all i could reach from the top (mainly on top of the boilers) and went to turn on again.

    Now im getting the display showing heating to 50/60 degrees and stays flashing.

    Steam seems to work fine, but just the temp display staying low. Discovered if i run the hot water outlet the temp raises slowly till around 75 but no further.

    Seems a bit strange, as the steam boiler seems to heat fine, and the display shows the probe heating but just not high enough. almost feels like a bubbble but ive bled both steam and hot water out plenty, and no change.

    If anyone has an ideas that could save me from stripping it down to get to the thermal fuse (somewhere under the boiler i hear?) that would be super appreciated..
    The triac board above the steam boiler has been damaged by the leaking steam and in your case, it's likely damaged the coffee boiler triac circuit.

    The overshooting of the temperature was the coffee boiler overheating and eventually it blows it's thermal fuse. Once this happens, the machine will no longer overheat but it also won't get to a ready state or display the correct temperature as the coffee boiler isn't heating.

    You'll need to replace the coffee boiler thermal fuse and triac board. The fuse is easy to get to, just on the lower side of the coffee boiler, you can remove the front panel of the machine for better access. It's a 133C fuse and will need to be crimped into place with parallel wire splice connectors or similar. You can't solder thermal fuses for use on boilers. Good connectors can be bought on RS Components, part no. 809-2369. There's 100 of them but it's only $5 or so, if you have a local electronics supply shop they probably have them too.

    The triac board is attached to the top cover of the machine and is easy to replace but will require some thermal paste and closed end crimp connectors, or, soldering a heat shrink. Soldering wiring for the triac board is fine as it's in no proximity to a boiler.

  48. #2848
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    Thanks for sharing this, I'm keen to swap my filter for the older cheaper ones. I found the same parts here: https://outwestcoffee.com.au/index.p...-parts/page/2/
    Does anyone have experience with this store? A bit cheaper so I might order from them.

  49. #2849
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    106
    Two questions:

    1: recommended program settings, what is good?

    2: Is there a way to prevent the machine from auto turning off?

    thanks

  50. #2850
    Coffee Newbie okitoki's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Perth. WA
    Posts
    481
    Quote Originally Posted by bowser View Post
    Two questions:

    2: Is there a way to prevent the machine from auto turning off?

    thanks
    interested with this too... but more about extending the shut off time... the 900 I think was set at 30mins but the 920 shuts off at 15mins which can be annoying if I wake up slightly later :P



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