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Thread: Rancillio Miss Lucy Mods

  1. #1
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    Rancillio Miss Lucy Mods

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hey Guys,

    Picked up a Rancilio Lucy off evlibay a couple of days ago, it's Date Stamped 7th Month 2000.

    There is a few oddities I noticed compared to the Silvia so making some mods and sharing them along the way.

    First Mod was to Add the Boil Indicator Light Back

    Before Mod..





    After Mod..




    Second Mod

    There was this Water Softner canister attached to the water in that was filled with jelly crystals, probably been in there 14 years
    and never replaced, it was causing isssues with suction as well so I removed it and zip tied on a short length of 10mm tube
    The beauty of this is the tubing adds a bit of weight and sits nicely on the bottom of the tank.



    After 4 Hours of Scrubbing, Descaling, 5 x Chemical Backflushes, changing all the seals & running 500g of rice through the grinder
    Miss Lucy Finally brews again!



    I'll probably do rocky stepless/Thread tape mod next and possibly change the Burrs.

    Just ordered an Arduino Microcontroller, LM35 Temp Sensor & SSR off ebay ($8 all up) to knock up a "Poor Man's PID"

    The Grider has a "timed' press button that takes 5 presses to fill a 14g basket - it seems a bit annoying to use
    I haven't looked too closely but does anyone know how to Mod this so it's an on/off button instead of the timed grind like it currently is?

    Cheers Rob.

  2. #2
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    why dont you get a "real" poor mans PID from dx.com for $25?

    otherwise yes I Picked up a lucy as well recently and she is a big hit at my work where she now lives.
    I was happy to keep the lamp set off the level switch as the output light on the PID tells me when the heater is on at least on the boil function.
    I also added a 40mm silvia v4 steam knob as i think its easier to get purchase when steaming than the standard 30mm knob and turned the dose timer back to about half a second.

    BTW these spade doublers make modding the wiring pretty neat/easy.

  3. #3
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    Hi Koshari,

    I'm thinking with an arduino i'll be able to do timed shots and once it's plugged into ethernet i'll be able to monitor/switch it on remotely via a phone if on my way in
    I just assumed they would cost more than that, is the one you've got 240V and the SSR Rated OK? Got any Pics of your setup?

    Spade doublers - Wish I knew about them before! thanks for the heads up!

    I think i'll remove the Tamp off the grinder and add a button to toggle the grimder motor and nobble the timer setup.

    Cheers Rob.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyrob View Post
    Hi Koshari,

    I'm thinking with an arduino i'll be able to do timed shots and once it's plugged into ethernet i'll be able to monitor/switch it on remotely via a phone if on my way in
    Got me there RR, I dont think I will be doing any timed shots from the internet given our workplace where lucy lives has a pretty robust firewall policy ;-)
    as far as adding a manual shot timer i was looking for a double rocker that had momentary action in one rocker and standard action in the other for both standard shot and timed.
    something like this,

    As off yet i haven’t located one with this functionality that will fit in the standard cutout.

    I just assumed they would cost more than that, is the one you've got 240V and the SSR Rated OK?
    absolutely , its basically an auber clone.
    High Quality XMT7100 1.3" Screen PID Intelligent Temperature Controller - Black
    have one in the silvia at home, and waiting for 2 more to arrive, one to replace the 1/16 din PID on the Lucy at work which is temporary (read big in a temporary plastic housing and only relay output rather than SSD) and the silvia for our holiday house.
    Got any Pics of your setup?
    will be happy to post pics when i replace the temporary PID with the permanent one and the smaller housing when it arrives. the big box double sided taped to the side looks a little ghetto. even made my own type K thermocouples with a few offcuts of type K flexible comp lead offcuts.

    Spade doublers - Wish I knew about them before! thanks for the heads up!
    thaught you might like that heads up, half a dozen of those make the PID mod a breeze on the silvia/lucy.
    I think i'll remove the Tamp off the grinder and add a button to toggle the grimder motor and nobble the timer setup.
    just wind the timer back (big numbered dial) and change the finder timers function ( as seen to the right of the pressure/level sensor in your first pic) to be momentary off delay, I cant remember the timer mode of the top off my head but there are only about 8 modes, its the blue selector dial changeable with a small Phillips blade which changes the 2 letters in the indicator window. This way the button on the front of the grinder will act momentary just like it does on our sunbeam grinders. Alternatively you could wire the grinder directly from the button on the front panel to the grinder motor and reassign the Finder internal timer as a your shot timer!
    Last edited by koshari; 11th December 2014 at 09:56 PM.

  5. #5
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    Hi Koshari,

    Awesome i'll have a play with the grinders settings tomorrow.

    I'll also grab one of those DX Pid's to have a play. I would be really interested in some pics when you get around to wiring them up.
    Any idea where I can grab a suitable thermocoupler?

    Cheers Rob.

  6. #6
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    well heres an interim pic as iam back at work today with the temporary PID on the side,
    lucy.jpg
    the DX stuff is pretty slow shipping, can take up to 30 days to receive.

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    i intend on mounting my permanent dx.com PID on the Lucy on the left edge of the protruding boiler bit above the grinder hopper,

    this is the enclosure i have chosen, poly so i dint have to earth it,

    eBay link removed per site posting policy

    i will be using 3m auto double sided tape.

    meanwhile i just flipped the group seal over and roughed up the mating surface with a bit of coarse emery as it was leaking ever so slightly on a hard tamped shot.

    see how it goes, otherwise i will replace it in the new year if its not any better.
    Last edited by Javaphile; 12th December 2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: eBay link(s) removed

  8. #8
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    This was the grinder settings before



    This is what I had to change it to for it to work as an on/off momentary switch



    I'll be grabbing one of those enclosures and mounting in the same spot. Thanks for the link

    Cheers Rob.

  9. #9
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    spot on rob, i couldnt recall the timer mode however you obviously sussed it out.
    Code:
    CE: On- and off-delay with control signal. DE: Interval with control signal on.
    from
    http://www.findernet.com/media/series/87/EN/S87EN.pdf

  10. #10
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    the new controller connected,



    All be it in another temporary enclosure until the final one comes, must say however the black enclosure really matches the steam knob, switches tamper and chassis.
    Last edited by koshari; 23rd December 2014 at 06:23 PM.
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    My PID & SSR was just literally dropped off by the postie so I hooked it up and had a quick play



    These are the settings i've gone with =

    SET -> 0001 -> SET

    Su = 0105
    AH1 = 175
    AL1 = 160

    SET -> 0036 -> SET

    P = 01.1
    I = 0060
    D = 015
    Souf = 0.2
    ot = 002
    Filt = 0

    SET -> 0089 -> SET

    Inty = k
    outy = 2
    Hy = 0
    p5b = 0
    rd = 0
    Corf = 0

    Just waiting on the project box to arrive...

  12. #12
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    Nice!

    The enclosure I got from evilbay was a tad too tiny so I grabbed a black one with the same idea in mind,

    You don't happen to have the dimensions to cutout for the pid to slide into project box at all? it would be a great help.

    Cheers Rob.

    EDIT: looks to be 1/32 DIN (24mm x 48mm)
    so according to this site ==> http://blog.lesman.com/2012/08/09/wh...anel-cut-outs/
    the cutout needs to be 22.5mm x 45mm

  13. #13
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    yes mine being the same is possibly a little small, i have used smaller .5mm2 gauge teflon wiring ( if you were to do this you will need to fuse the active wire at the power switch as you would break gauge from the internal 1mm2 wiring 500mA was suitable for protecting .5mm2) so i think i will be able to live with it being tight at the back, its the brass posts at the front where the lid screws screw into that i may need to file the inner sides off to get the opening size for the controllers 45mm width. just hoping i can get by without hitting the internal threads.

    i also covered the exposed mains wiring with heatshrink tubing to maintain double insulation of the mains supply to the controller outside of the enclosure.
    I also just let the autotune select the parameters which worked very well. of coarse the autotune needs the element to be hooked up to monitor the temp rise rate to set the PID parameters accurately.

    in my case i mounted the SSD and the fuse holder on the stainless panel that separated the tank cavity from the boiler cavity.
    Last edited by koshari; 8th January 2015 at 12:57 PM.
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    All I can say is goodluck! I spent 45 mins dremelling the same size project box and got so close to making it fit but there wasnt enough brass thread left to keep the lid closed, tho you might be a more patient person than myself

    I just finished wiring mine up and pulled a coffee 5 minutes ago I don't think I gave it enough time to warm up was it overshot a little bit (not a 20 Deg C swing like it was previously)
    I'll let it warm up and see how it responds.

    Only spot I could find to mount the SSR, I replaced the silicon hoses while it was in pieces.



    The white doublesided tape looks a bit daggy but it's stonger than the black stuff I had on hand.


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    i see you just placed a S/S screw in the hole the tamper was previously mounted in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by koshari View Post
    i see you just placed a S/S screw in the hole the tamper was previously mounted in.


    I'm giving auto tune a spin, definately getting better results with it.

    The only issue i'm having now is the Steam Thermostat doesn't cut out until 157*C which is aufully close to the main cut off switch @ 165*C.
    There is a bit of play on the thermostat since installing the thermocoupler so i'm wondering if that is causing the issue or if I need to replace
    the Thermostat.

    Cheers Rob.

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    Rancillio Miss Lucy Mods

    My steamers all get up around that temp, its alarming isn't it. Even more so when you consider that's the temp they have been getting up to all along! Interesting what you discover with accurate temperature monitoring. I have left the steamers all on the original thermostat, alternatively you could use the alarm output to control the steam temp if you so desired.

    BTW did you have to cut away a little bit of the thicker black painted steel plate on the left lower side beneath the stainless control panel cover to make room for your cabling loom to the controller box?

  18. #18
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    In reality it's not actually an issue for me because I usually start clearing out the wet steam at 120*C and steam milk from there so it rarely gets above 140*C.
    Not sure what everyone else does?

    Just the odd occasion when you get distracted and it would skyrocket.

  19. #19
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    ok, checked the OPV and it was peaking above 11.5 bar, now with another pair of copper washers its pretty much bang on 9 bar now.

    opv.jpg

  20. #20
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    You got lucky!

    Mine was 11.5 Bar as well, adding a second washer droppied down a bit but not 9 bar. I'll try again with 2 x new washers perhaps the old one have been squashed down too much.





    Did you use a closed system to test? here's mine



    Cheers Rob.

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    yes closed system test as well, same setup as yours except i had a little bit of tube between elbow and gauge fitting. bit of a pain using the Lucy portafilter with the notch, had to cut a bit of insertion rubber to plug the notch, next time i will use my newer silvia portafilter without the notch.

    Originally i tried 2 copper washers and a fibre washer between then and it was way to low under 7 bar, removing the fibre washer made it about 8.5 bar.

    the copper washers i used were a little convex so i flattened them down and dressed them with emery and then i hit 9 bar so it was a bit of trial and error, i did have a bit of scale in the OPV which possibly could have effected the seating of the valve as well.

    but all good now, will be interesting to see what my silvia V1 down at the beach house is set to.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by koshari View Post
    yes closed system test as well, same setup as yours except i had a little bit of tube between elbow and gauge fitting. bit of a pain using the Lucy portafilter with the notch, had to cut a bit of insertion rubber to plug the notch, next time i will use my newer silvia portafilter without the notch.

    Originally i tried 2 copper washers and a fibre washer between then and it was way to low under 7 bar, removing the fibre washer bade it about 8.5 bar.

    the copper washers i used were a little convex so i flattened them down and dressed them with emery and then i hit 9 bar so it was a bit of trial and error, i did have a bit of scale in the OPV which possibly could have effected the seating of the valve as well.

    but all good now, will be interesting to see what my silvia V1 down at the beach house is set to.
    I got the notch on the portafilter brazed & cleaned up by a very nice forum member

    Just tested mine again with 2 washers and it reads 155 PSI which is 10.68 bar, I'm going to try some thread tape around the washers to see if that will give it a bit less pressure.

    Rob.

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyrob View Post
    I got the notch on the portafilter brazed & cleaned up by a very nice forum member

    Just tested mine again with 2 washers and it reads 155 PSI which is 10.68 bar, I'm going to try some thread tape around the washers to see if that will give it a bit less pressure.

    Rob.
    i suspect my washers were a tad thicker than yours,
    quick tip, go off the kPa scale, 100kPa is very close to 1 bar with 10 meters of H2O head pretty much one atmosphere :-)

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    Ah good to know!

    I got there in the end added a decent amount of thread tape and kept tightening it up unti it hit 9 Bar.


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    Don't forget with no flow you should set to ~9.5-10 as the pressure will drop with flow.

    Not super critical as you are in the ballpark.

    Cheers
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    Quote Originally Posted by artman View Post
    Don't forget with no flow you should set to ~9.5-10 as the pressure will drop with flow.

    Not super critical as you are in the ballpark.

    Cheers
    Ah hmm OK, another thing to investigate

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    Hey Guys,

    Well after 5 Months of everyday usage, My PID bellowed out with black smoke and shorted out my RCD.
    I'm just going to order another one but does anyone have any idea how I can prevent this from happeing?
    Some sort of inline fuse?

    Cheers Rob.

  28. #28
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    G'day Rob...

    Failure could have been initiated by some unfriendly voltage spikes via the mains supply.
    Wouldn't hurt to grab a Belkin Surge Protection device or similar and yes, an In-line fuse
    to protect the rest of your machine from any mishaps with the PID unit wouldn't be a bad
    idea also...

    Mal.

  29. #29
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    I would say a surge device or fuse would likely not have saved this controller. I have 3 and none have bitten the dust yet but might just be worthwhile to grab a spare .

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    i shoulda grabbed a spare controller... one of my xmt7100s (the one on my silvia installed sep 2014) died this morning after letting out a little puff of smoke, looks like i will be temperature surfing until a replacement arrives.

    So this Auber clone controller lasted just over 2 years before giving up the ghost, not too bad for a $27 controller i guess.
    Last edited by koshari; 16th November 2016 at 07:55 AM.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by koshari View Post
    i shoulda grabbed a spare controller... one of my xmt7100s (the one on my silvia installed sep 2014) died this morning after letting out a little puff of smoke, looks like i will be temperature surfing until a replacement arrives.

    So this Auber clone controller lasted just over 2 years before giving up the ghost, not too bad for a $27 controller i guess.
    Were you using a separate SSR output or its built in relay output? Any idea what causes the failure? I have one of these (love the form) but 2 years life span is pretty crap...


    p/s: Have just checked out the supplier I've got mine from (stated to be the manufacturer). The PID is said to carry a 3-year warranty. Now that's better (comparable to Pstat). Not sure if the warranty applies if you've got it from whole/reseller.
    Last edited by samuellaw178; 16th November 2016 at 09:25 AM.
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  32. #32
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    just using the ssr output, agree 2 years is pretty lame, and not bothered with waranty , got it from dx.com.

    these are a pretty cheap copy of the auber, i suspect that the switching power supply in it just let go, no lights or any action, the sound it made as it let the smoke out was consistent with a bit of flash-over.

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    Thanks for the info. I had a look around and there appears to be more than one XMT7100 clones around - ie similarly 'claimed' XMT7100 models but all with slight difference in their appearance. This whole cloning business is really scary. Also, Auber actually does not manufacture their own PID if my impression is correct.

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    Oh no! I just ordered a spare....

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    i noticed that you can get 12v models as well, might be worth getting a 12v model next time and powering it through a half decent power supply?

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyrob View Post
    Oh no! I just ordered a spare....
    I ordered another one as well, turns out i need a controller for my beer brewing kettle so it makes sense to consolidate to the one controller. the brew kettle controller could be swapped out if another fails as i only use the kettle when brewing.



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