Post By noidle22
Post By TampIt
Post By TampIt
Post By Markka
Post By noidle22
Post By Steveshep
Sunbeam EM7000 Steam Wand just producing water
Just recently, my EM7000 has stopped producing steam and just produces water. I can hear the pump but the water is at room temperature. Unfortunately it is no longer under warranty.
I thought I might post here first in the unlikely event that there is a relatively easy fix here. However, I'm assuming that there is a problem with the thermoblock and it needs to be repaired.
After a few years, the relay that controls the steam thermoblock wears out and either stays constantly closed or open circuit.
In a constantly closed condition, it will continue to apply power to the thermoblock which can then blow the thermal fuse. In this case, the thermal fuse and the relay would need to be replaced.
If it has failed open circuit, the thermal fuse will probably be ok necessitating only the relay replacement.
Both of these scenarios will require a Sunbeam authorised technician to do the repair. It involves 240V components and small soldering work. Depending on where you are, I could do this for you. PM me if you want to discuss it further.
I took the machine to a repairer, and the problem turned out to be a PCB that needed replacing. I was told it was a common problem. However, the same problem has just happened again. Does anyone know anything about this problem or the PCB being referred to? I'd prefer to try fix this myself rather than take it back.
I would contact noidle. CC (West Oz) have never replaced a PCB in a 7000. Your repairer probably didn't actually fix the prob (unfortunately too common in today's "plug and play modular world"). FWIW, I doubt they replaced the PCB either - a bit of circuit cleaner aimed at the board probably freed the relay up temporarily.
Originally Posted by sturdy
It was probably the relay on the PCB that I mentioned in a previous post. If the machine is still under warranty, you will void it by doing the repair yourself.
Originally Posted by sturdy
These repairs are intended only if you have experience working with 240V components and soldering. This is undertaken at your own risk.
If you read this and have any concerns, do not attempt the repair and take the machine to an authorised service centre.
If the machine is not under warranty, the repair is simple enough as long as you can solder components to a PCB. The relay is available from RS Components, part number 719-6341. They cost about $2.50 each.
Unplug the machine from the powerpoint.
Remove the plastic base of the machine by removing all visible philips head screws. You will then see the pumps and wiring.
There will be 4, maybe 5, small philips head screws that affix the metal cover plate over the PCB that are undone from the base of the machine.
Once these are removed, pull down on the metal plate and the big white PCB case will be exposed. There's a few more philips head screws that hold the plastic cover over the PCB. remove them to gain access.
Once the PCB is exposed, take a photo or label each wire so you know how to reassemble it.
Unplug everything and remove the PCB.
You will see a row of small black boxes, these are the relays. There will be a spade terminal on the PCB that says steam or steam heater or something like that, I cant quite remember.
Follow the track on the PCB from this terminal and it will lead to one of the relays. This is the relay you need to replace.
Desolder the relay, the new relay will be a direct fit. It can only go in one way due to the pin layout on the relay.
Resolder and reassemble.
Test the machine, it should now work properly.
If you still don't have any steam, possibly the relay failed closed instead of open which means the thermal fuse on the steam thermoblock will have blown.
To remove the top of the machine to access the thermoblock, remove the small lid on top where you access the water inlet and filter basket storage. Squeeze the plastic hinge pieces inwards and the lid will come off.
Remove the 5 or however many it is philips head screws that affix the lid to the plastic housing. There are 2 more screws under the front of the machine that also need to be removed. You can see the 2 access holes by looking up under the front of the machine.
The lid slides forward and up. There will be an earth cable attached to the lid that needs to be removed. Remember to reattach this upon reassembly.
You can rest the lid to the side of the machine without needing to disconnect the red and black wiring harnesses however they can be removed for easier access.
The steam thermoblock is laid out horizontally at the back of the machine. The thermal fuse is the part attached to the thermoblock in the white material shealth with blue wires coming out of it.
This is a 240C rated fuse, available from RS, part number 176-9356. You will need a good quality crimping tool and terminals to crimp multi strand wire to the single pin of the fuse. Do not solder these as it will heat up enough to melt the solder. Ensure that the white material sheath covers all exposed wiring from the fuse and is in good condition. The body of the fuse is at 240V and will short to the thermoblock if there is any damage to that sheath.
Reassemble and test. You should be good to go.
Thx noidle. Glad you decided to help here.
Add one to your good karma pile.
I have an EM7000 which is 2 year old and out of warranty. A couple of weeks ago between making cups (ie the machine was on and idle) there was a loud popping noise. Now the steam wand is not working properly. It makes the same noises but produces a small amount of steam and a bit of water. Also water is leaking from the bottom of the machine while the steam wand is on. Descaling cycle didn't help.
I am guessing I may have the same problem as the OP. I will try taking it apart and and see what I find.
Going to have a crack at this over the weekend. I have experience soldering and crimping, so all should be well. Thanks for your help!
Did this repair tonight and it worked a treat. Ended up having to replace the relay and thermal fuse. Interestingly enough, the previous repair done at the shop also replaced the thermal fuse but just soldered the new fuse in. I wonder if that contributed to it failing.
Regardless, really appreciate your help noidle!!
Would this be the PCB in question?
eBay link removed as per Site Posting Policy Sunbeam COFFEE MACHINE EM7000 Main PCB ASSY Part Number-EM70018 Ellis Electrical
Last edited by Javaphile; 18th April 2017 at 08:50 PM.
Reason: Removed eBay link(s)
I am new to the forum, but have the same issue with my EM7000 steam wand. Can you recommend anyone in Sydney who can do this repair for me. I have spoken to a service agent but they want to replace the whole PCB (and charge accordingly instead of completing the fix mentioned in this thread above which would be a cheaper alternative.
If you do not want to do it yourself, PM noidle22 - I believe he is at Bathhurst and personally I would make the trip...
Originally Posted by JoeG
PS: Mine did it twice (at about $6 a pop) before I worked out that excessive standby times results in a heat buildup and guess which part blows...
Makes me wonder if there is room inside to mount a plug in relay base to make future replacements easier. I'm guessing not.
Joe what part of Sydney are you in? If driving to Bathurst is out of the question I'm south of Liverpool and would be happy to give it a go for nothing based on the (extremely detailed!) instructions above, but haven't done it before. I'm an industrial electrician with passable soldering skills.
Thank you for this kind offer. Bathurst is a bit to far me but Casual is a possibility. Can you please PM your details.
Interesting reading, same issue here in my new to me EM 7000.
Date stamp 254. Does this mean Week 25 2014 (June).
Actually mine was no steam.
Repair agent says it is a "Failed solonoid valve" cost to repair $150.00.
So the machine I purchased for $205.00 and which was represented as having no faults, and hardly used, is not quite what it was supposed to be!
Last edited by rawill; 14th November 2017 at 09:34 AM.
And, after having the repair done I got it home tried it, lots of good powerful steam.
However, when "attempting to pull the shot" hardly any water came out the group head, the pressure guage did not move, and the water poured the overflow into the drip tray and overflowed it, so back it went again! Oh dear, what did I buy?!
The previous owner assures me it has had little use, was sorking fine, then it sat for a while before he sold it to me.
He has offered me a refund, it may well come that.
i would have been better off buying new when they are on special.
I think I will keep a 6910 as a reserve machine!, if this one ever gets fixed.
Originally Posted by rawill
I feel your pain... My 2008 6910 was butchered by a local SB Conan (hint: Official SB repairer in Rockingham, starts with a number) then repaired properly by Coffee Classic (SB and almost any other espresso machine warranty repairer) in mid 2011. It keeps on trucking, easier to make better microfoam than the 7000 and equal coffee. It has had at least the same workload since 2014 (if not more).
My 2014 7000 has had 3 showstoppers so far and is getting a little flaky again (I need to reset the steam control pin for what seems to be the umpteenth time). Were it not for domestic peace I would give it the boot and use the (much noisier) 6910...
"was sorking fine" - ??? Typo?
My "trusty 6910" is off to my daughters at Christmas, along with an IMS triple basket, and the Sunbeam baskets.
She is not getting my VST, Pullmans or Decent Espresso baskets!
Then I will get around to refurbishing my other 6910, and hopefully the 7000 will be working too!
They sure are quieter.
Just wanted to thank noidle22 for his instructions above. I managed to buy two EM7000s very cheaply with the plan that I would be able to get at least one working easily. One of the machines had the steam problem listed above and the replacement of the relay and thermal fuse worked perfectly. I actually sourced the EM7000 thermal fuse from an old EM6910 which I was using for parts. The other machine suffered from the problem listed elsewhere in this thread where hot water destined for the group head was simply diverting to the drip tray instead. The cause of this was a stuck solenoid valve which is connected to the group head. The valve was stuck permanently open when it is supposed to close during the brewing cycle. I ended up removing the valve from the machine and removing the coil from the valve so that I was only left with the mechanical body. With some makeshift plumbing and a funnel I flushed hot descaling solution through the valve body for about 15 minutes then left the valve to soak for another 30 mins. Using a powerful magnet sourced from an old hard drive I then slid the magnet up and down the valve body with the hope that the little slider inside the valve would free up. I then reassembled the valve and made a special 240 volt wiring loom just to test the valve outside of the EM7000. (I don't recommend anyone else do this unless you are highly competent in 240 volt wiring). As soon as I applied power to the valve I could hear a click plus I attached a length of plastic hose to the valve and was unable to blow through the vlave when the power was on. I then reassembled the valve back into the EM7000 and the machine now works perfectly.I now have two working EM7000s when all I wanted was one!
Originally Posted by noidle22
Hey just done all of this and it still not heating the steam wand water... could there be another issue? could somehting be stuffing the relay?
Originally Posted by noidle22
I've never had this method not been successful on the EM7000 however it's possible that the thermostat on the steam thermoblock is faulty.
Originally Posted by andRENZ
Check it with a multimeter on continuity test, the thermostat should be a closed circuit. If it is open, it won't heat.
It's also possible, although unlikely, that the element on the thermoblock is open circuit. Test it with a multimeter on the 200 ohm setting. You should see around 40-50 ohm.
Also double check your soldering and the fuse you have installed if you haven't already.
righto cheers, ill do those checks
Originally Posted by noidle22
Following the repair work described above where the steam relay had failed and was replaced I have now experienced a similar problem the the group head heater. I noticed that the machine was spluttering steam out of the group head when idle plus when I shut the machine down from the front panel the group area remained very hot hours after it was supposedly turned off. A quick look at the circuit diagram showed that the most likely culprit was the relay which turns the group head heater on and off. On the circuit board it says something like "COF HEATER" and the process to replace the relay is identical to noidle22's instructions on the steam relay.It would appear that the relays used by Sunbeam are barely up to the task as I have now had two failures.
Originally Posted by Markka
I have now also had another occasion where a solenoid valve has stuck causing hot water destined for the hot water wand heading to the group head. Fortunately it was fixable using the same technique described above.
Just for future CSrs with a similar problem, my 7000 actually kept blowing the thermostat. I had changed the standby time to extend it (not really worth it given the 7000's 90 second warmup time) and every 12 months or so the thermostat would blow. Cheap and easy to fix (as above). If the relay checks out, it should be next on the list IMO.
FWIW, the 7000 is nowhere near as solid as the 6910 - however it is a lot quieter...
My EM7000 was remaining hot to touch even when switched off from the front panel, and as of today the steam wand is now only producing water. As I'm not skilled to repair this myself, does anyone have any recommendations for Sydney-based repairers? And any ideas on what price tag to expect to have it repaired (out of warranty of course).
Hi noldle22 I have the same issue as most of the above, I have replaced the relay but still only cold water so I must need to also replace the thermal fuse however in my machine the fuse is in the black wire no the blue wire (blue wire is no fused) did this change in the later models?
by the way RS no longer carried the fuse so i hope I sourced an equivalent from Mid North Coast Components... MicroTemp Thermal Fuse High Temperature Circuit cut off SF240C 250V 10A hop this is correct.
The thermal fuse arrived this morning, I installed it using a couple of new crimps as suggested, took about 10 min ... working perfectly now thank you all.
All up cost was $2.90 for the relay, 2.85 for the thermal fuse, say 20 cents for the crimps (plus postage) ... so well under $10 including postage.
The hardest part of the process was working out how to get into the unit, once you're in and you have found your way around its really easy.
Thanks again noidle22