EM6910 Water Level Float Repair
EM6910 Water Level Float Repair
The problem of the water level LED always flashing on the Sunbeam EM6910 seems to regularly crop up on the forum so I thought I would document my cheapskate repair method which seems to have been effective. Of course it is probably not much cheaper than just buying another float unless you have some spare time, a small magnet, Superglue and neutral cure Silicone sealer lying around.
The first task is to remove the cap from the float chamber located in the bottom of the water reservoir.
This seems to be glued in place and can be pried off with a short handled screw driver or similar if it too difficult to simply pull off.
The next step is probably the most difficult part of the process – opening the float.
Cutting it open would probably leave too big a gap to re-seal but I have found that it can usually be split apart along the seam by firmly squeezing alternately width-wise and length-wise in a vice (vyce?) with fairly firm pressure while carefully prying the lug with a flat-bladed screw driver. With a bit of luck it will crack along the seam without too much damage and distortion to the float case.
Open case 1.jpgOpen case 2.jpg
Once open the remains of the old magnet will be seen as a hairy lump in the bottom. This can be cleaned out and discarded.
More next post -
Next, the button magnet can be embedded in a blob of neutral cure silicone in the bottom of the case. A little 10mm x 3mm rare earth magnet seems to work well when placed flat in the case but you could try removing a similar shaped one from a 'fridge magnet. It might pay to do a 'dry run' down the lower right hand side of the water reservoir housing to make sure it is strong enough to turn off the red light first (there is a magnetic reed switch mounted down the side of the control pc board just the other side of the central partition)
Button magnet.jpg Silicone blob.jpg Embed magnet.jpg
After allowing the silicone to set for a while the two halves of the case can be held firmly together and a thin bead of Superglue run around the join and allowed to wick in. It is best to apply several thin coats allowing them to dry in between rather than a thick one which will take much longer to dry. When finished check carefully to see that it is fully sealed with no gaps to allow water to enter.
When totally dry the float and cap can be refitted to the float chamber and tested to see that the red light turns off as the water tank is filled.
Just in closing, I had some concerns about the toxicity of Superglue and did some research about it.
It would appear that the risks from fully cured cyanoacrylate adhesive is minimal with forms of it used for surgical suturing. Whilst the newer ones used for surgery are long chain cyanoacrylates as against the adhesive short chain ones the risk still seems very low. Also the adhesive formulations can have slightly toxic thinners used in them. In view of the very small amount of exposed seam I was quite happy to use it on my machine although I did give it a thorough wash and soak in clean water before putting it into service.