I don't know how much buyers of $1000 espresso machines are interested in cutting edge extraction techniques, or keep up with machines like Slayer, but in case you are one who is:
This is me in another forum: https://www.home-barista.com/espress...0.html#p619804
And the post content:
-PeterUnbelievably huge, unqualified success!
We now have not just "Slayerlike" shots, but actual Slayer shots. And it's easy. And it's reversible (requires some modding... sort of... Actually just rerouting the existing plumbing, so no cutting. And for me, it was free, (because of some spare parts I have kept around over the years).
In a nutshell, I routed the brew line through the hot water valve, which is a needle valve. This means ALL of your brew comes through the water valve. If it is closed, NO water gets to the puck/group, no matter how hard or long you run the pump. To do a Slayer shot, you just crack open the water valve, start the pump right at full pressure and keep it running. After it fills the lines and the headspace above the puck, pressure will start to build, only just as with Slayer, it will build all the way and not stop at one or two bar, even though the actual flow is still slow. You will see the thickest stickiest gloopy gloppy espresso start coming out and then you can increase the flow by opening the knob (at whatever rate feels good to you). As the shot progresses, you can slow the flow by progressively closing the knob as you wish (which you cannot do on Slayer), and end the shot by turning off the pump or closing the valve all the way and then turning off the pump. My very first shot, with no practice and experimentation, was a masterpiece. I just used the same grind setting that I had been using for the last few weeks doing Breville-"Slayerlike" shots using PP55. I wish I had four hands and an LED espresso light and a fancy mirror for video'ing. You guys would die.
If you've got some dark beans and don't want to do a Slayer shot, just leave the water valve full open and it will work just like normal, with your pre infusion settings and all.
You will of course, no longer have use of your hot water knob for tea. For that, I have a 1500watt glass kettle with temperature selection. Well worth it if you drink tea, Aeropress, or pour over. Coincidentally, it is also a Breville. But I am not a shill for Breville. I have that kettle because my wife actually wanted it and picked it out completely independently from me and my input.
Full credit to Jake_G for this idea. It was not mine. Jake does not even have a BDB. But he has a big brain.
Words cannot describe how elated I am over this.
I hope eventually a lot of people do this, especially the super sensitive tasters, and report back what they think.
I'm afraid my post above wasn't super clear. So I'll try to summarize in a more tabular way:
pre infusion time:
Stock Breville: 90s (you shouldn't need more than 30s)
Mod Breville: long as you want
Slayer: long as you want
Pre infusion pressure:
Stock Breville: slow ramp to at most ~1-2 bar
Mod Breville: slow ramp to max brew pressure
Slayer: slow ramp to max brew pressure
Pre infusion flow rate:
Stock Breville: ~90ml/30s @ min pre infusion pressure setting
Mod Breville: low as you like, but Slayer folks like 50-60 ml/30s
Slayer: same as Mod Breville
Stock Breville: whatever the puck will allow, can profile it down with the water knob
Mod Breville: -same-
Slayer: Actually has disadvantage here. You cannot profile it down. You can only switch discretely back to pre brew
Last edited by pcrussell50; 22nd November 2018 at 01:28 AM.
I love it!
I donít know that I would do the mod because I really wouldnít be able to taste the difference. But I LOVE to read about my BDB being such a cool machine.
Iím wondering if the paddle from the steam wand could be moved to the other side to make it easier
I'm wondering if an extra solenoid could be added with a hidden switch so the hot water spout still works
Gran'pa... not enough to wake him up completely, but enough to not p*ss in his slippers
Far from pissing in our slippers, we Grandpa's are the very people who are constantly doling out never ending streams of advice on how to sort out basic extraction problems with your new whiz bang espresso machines.
Slayer shot on a Slayer. Slow build of pressure to first drops in 30s or so, then switch to full flow, then switch back to pre brew to finish:
Slayer shot on BDB. Slow build of pressure to first drops in 30s or so, then on the fly needle valve modulation, raising the pressure to demonstrate control. Normally you would would gently close the needle to keep the flow from increasing as the puck erodes.
Note that you can NOT do this on an un modded BDB. You must plug and play the PTFE tubes in the machine, to extract through the needle valve that comes with it. Note the pump is run at full power the whole time. Pre infusion time is set to zero. All pre infusion is done through the needle valve, just like Slayer.
(Apologies, my five year old little girl decided that that was the moment she must insist on asking for a lollie).
Last edited by pcrussell50; 11th March 2019 at 07:36 PM.