Looks almost like my bought one.
I was playing around in the garage the other day and came across this pressure gauge it came of a tire gauge the one used for pumping up tires.
So off down to the plumbing shop and I picked up a brass fitting for about $8.00 and Bobs yours uncle Cheep pressure Gauge works a treat. :) :)
Cheers Gra.. Ps: even if you had to buy a new tire gauge there only around $20.00. ;)
Looks almost like my bought one.
Very much like those that are fitted to the end of the group handle ..I was having trouble trying to find where to pick up a gauge then come across this in my tool box.. :oOriginally Posted by 370B160D070611040C07630 link=1278733238/1#1 date=1278734574
Wow, so any air gauge will do the trick as long as its fitted to the pf correctly. Nice one Gra. I have a gauge in the shed not being used. Not for long. :)
Is there any bounce Gra, I know that people use the liquid filled gauges but do you get a steady enough reading.
Probably the main thing to be careful of, with a gauge that maxes out at 10 Bar, is to wind your OPV back to start with before testing. Otherwise, if your machine is set particularly high, you will end up buggering up the gauge.... :(
Just a thought ::)
Good point Mal, I had already adjusted the Expobar down with its own gauge before using the group..Originally Posted by 7954505C513D0 link=1278733238/5#5 date=1279010220
No bounce Barrel nice stable reading best to set when the machine is cold..Originally Posted by 5F5C4F4F58513D0 link=1278733238/4#4 date=1279006149
anyone else looking for gauges
i got my gauge from a water filter / pool pump / water equipment shop.
about $20 for liquid filled its been used a few times and is now a few months old and has not failed
i had to buy the brass fitting as well
Looks like it leaks.
Thats what I thought too TG Mine wouldnt read properly if it leaked.Originally Posted by 7F435E454F4E594C444F2B0 link=1278733238/8#8 date=1279028951
slammed as only the god of thunder can :)
it sometimes gets a dribble / drip
just lock it in harder or more thread tap
there was much discusion about if these gauges should also have a needle valve to simulate an extraction. i agree they should.
i think Gregs now does ?
its just a guide.... the faema E98 i recently acquired was running plumbed in and @ 12 bar I could tell it was way to high with its explosive extractions before the gauge went on it .....
Just ordered a Rain Bird P2A Water Pressure Gauge form amazon for $18 delivered, tried to use one from an air tire compresser but could not get adapters to match, very small fitting. This one is top mount so will be right way under portafiller.
Be very interested to hear how it goes as I have been thinking of getting a gauge.
tried them for adapters, they also sold fluid filled gauges for about $33 and helpful.
also tried Reece but could not help at all.
Thought I would add to this thread instead of starting a new one...
I have a pressure gauge currently fitted to a brass 3/8 elbow which screws on to the bottom of a portafilter. Itís therefore the basic tester that isnít able to simulate water flow, ie itís like using a blind filter.
Iíve been looking around to try to add a needle / bleed valve to simulate flow and have struggled to find the ones that you see on other gauges people have put together all over the world. I went to Reece Plumbing today, picked up a T piece and asked for a ďneedle/bleed valveĒ that I could use to restrict water flow. The attached is what I ended up with.
As you can see there are 2 pieces to the needle valve. The smaller piece seems to have a spring loaded inner section that pushes out to the left when you screw the larger section on to the right. Can anyone offer any advice on if this would work if I screwed it all together and used the cap on the top the valve to try to allow some water flow? If not, can anyone point me towards any places that might stock the valve Id be after?
I note that it has 110C stamped on the end which suggests to me that it can handle water? Also, I saw itís got 1.6MPa on the valve. A google converter shows me that 1.6MPa = 232PSI = 16bar so I assume I wouldnít put a hole in the kitchen ceiling by blowing the cap off the valve (as long as my machine is running under 16 bar of course)
Thanks in advance for any advice
Nice work: I see that is a Wika guage ( from the fatherland) you have they are pretty accurate compared to a lot of rubbish out there.
Small ball valves also work pretty effectively as bleed valves, and these are generally available in a variety of BSP sizing through industrial bearing suppliers. They will also have BSP adapters, elbows etc (not to mention tools, food safe lubricants, thread tape, gasket material), very very handy resource for the intrepid tinkerer* ;)
Also useful in this application - Fluid-o-tech OPV from Coffeeparts http://www.coffeeparts.com.au/misc/620409
I did the "ghetto" bleed valve last night by loosening off the connection to the gauge to let it leak a bit, but still wouldnt mind trying a proper valve if it isnt too expensive.
Ahh righto - thanks for that.Originally Posted by 657E747C4875787973170 link=1278733238/16#16 date=1334663975
So, looking at the cheapest / most compact way to get the job done with a ball valve, would you say that order code 47072-06BG at the bottom of page 5-2 would do the trick?
Ive got a female 3/8 T piece sitting at home to use...
Forgive my ignorance, but Im guessing those types of valves are not strictly an on/off thing but can move in between fully closed and fully open?
If you rat your local hydraulics supplier, you can find some nice 3/8" BSPP gear that will be even nicer ::) You can find a nice taper seat "thing" that is female thread that screws into the bottom of the PF and seals without using any tape or whatever.
My homebrew gauge uses one of those, a Tee, a liquid filled gauge and a ball valve. I chose the ball valve because the needle valves they had were so expensive.. It turns out the ball valve is perfectly serviceable - you just do the xxx ml in yyy seconds and then look at the pressure.
Just as an update...heres what I ended up with
I changed that needle valve thingy above for a 3/8 "ballofix" ball valve. Reece Plumbing only had female/female ones so got an adaptor as well
So the next hurdle then was when the ball valve was only opened slightly to restrict the water flow it naturally sprayed everywhere once the pressure built up *pats self on head*
I imagine theres another something else you can plug in to prevent that spray (anyone feel free to link me to something if you know)
But the dodgy way I got it to work as intended was to cover the open end of the ball valve with some cloth whilst the water ran out :)
Unfortunately Ive been off sick for a week or so...* So I didnt get a chance to post this picture as promised of the setup I have.* The taper seat coupling is at the top..
Hi sorry to break into the thread:
I had a lot of trouble with water getting into the line to the gauge. The gauge would oscillate frantically in time with the pump. My original solution was to shake the PF to get all the water out then it would be okay. I also noticed that the gauge like to be vertical (fluid atmospheric pressure balance button is on the top) I had difficulty trying to find BSP fittings, then discovered that metric and BSP have the same tread and my locale hardware had heaps at very good prices (grrrr). The attached photo is my solution (oh for the skill to bend a bit of copper pipe and find the correct olives)
I am not sure why I need a measured outlet to register the pressure. I though the intention was to have a pressure ceiling so that the water pressure through the grinds would not exceed a set pressure - in my case 9 bar.
I will see if I can fit a control valve of some sort.
(I also found that Coffee Parts built into handle gauges are very accurate)
I wish I had found this thread last year.