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Thread: Integrated Pitcher Rinser/Expobar drip tray - Possible?

  1. #1
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    Integrated Pitcher Rinser/Expobar drip tray - Possible?

    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Hey all, got a wacky idea I wanted to float and get some thoughts on before committing. If anything glaring stands out please put me right!

    Am in the process of putting in a new kitchen. Iíve got an Expobar Office Control I plan to do a float valve mod on to fill the tanks through a line running off the dishwasher.

    I was thinking, if I go to the trouble of getting a water line and waste line routed, could I go a step further and use a pitcher rinser to pull double duty for the Expobar drip tray? Itíd need to be a wide enough model to allow the rinser portion to sit outboard of the machine footprint.

    Far as I can tell, pitcher rinsers need to connect to mains pressure, but a float valve setup requires a regulated flow.

    If I run an unregulated line from the dishwasher to a quick connect T-junction on the benchtop, run a regulated line off one barb to the float valve in the Expobar tank, and an unregulated line to the pitcher rinser, would that work?

    Iím fairly confident about being able to retrofit the rinser as the Expobar drip tray, so I donít see much issue there.

    keen for your thoughts!
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  2. #2
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    I'm not going to be much help to you, I just wanted to wish you luck and say that I am looking forward to photos and/or video of this franken-tray

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    Thanks! I’ll be documenting the kitchen build (fingers crossed for solid American oak benchtops), I’ll be sure to document anything done with the coffee setup

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    Super Moderator Javaphile's Avatar
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    That depends on what you mean by a "quick connect" fitting. If you mean a barbed fitting for poly hose NO!

    If I were doing it I would install a T connector with a shut-off valve in the main cold water supply line and use either the same material the main water lines are made from or screw on steel braided covered hoses to run to the T-connector. Then use screw on steel braided covered hoses to make the connections to the rinser and the tank.

    Use of the cheap poly hose for any pressurized connection is begging for a flood.


    Java "Been there, done that, never again!" phile
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    Toys! I must have new toys!!!

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    Senior Member Lyrebird's Avatar
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    I'm assuming he means pneumatic pushfit type connections, eg those sold under the John Guest brand, in which case the scheme will work well.

    Make sure the hoses are the high pressure type (>1 MPa rated) and the sizes are sufficient for the flow rate required. The fittings themselves are generally rated for a working pressure of 1 MPa, mains pressure is about 0.5 MPa* and the fittings rating already has a safety factor built in.

    BTW you probably won't need a pressure regulator to run a float valve: the pressure regulation is required if you are direct plumbing into the pump, not needed for a float valve as long as it has adequate ratings which it will if you buy a reputable brand.


    * It is possible to have mains pressure much higher than this in older houses which predate the introduction of the 500 kPa max. If your house is one of thse you can get a pressure regulator fitted.
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    Exactly what I was trying to articulate, glad to hear it sounds feasible!

    House was built in 1967 if I recall correctly, I’ve had trouble with high pressure popping push fit irrigation fittings so I think a regulator will be worth having on hand. Might be able to get away with a single regulator, will have to see.

    Currently seeing if I can source a used rinser from a friend and local roaster, so if it doesn’t pan out there won’t be too much money in the hole.

    Can anyone recommend a trustworthy float valve/kit? Happy to piece a kit together, I think Chris’ Coffee used to stock a kit but doesn’t appear to be there anymore

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    Oh, and another thing re: draining, the machine would be opposite the sink (galley kitchen format), and all pipes would need to run under the floorboards. The way the house is built there’s almost standing room under the kitchen crawlspace. Pictured below (and potentially sideways, sorry. I have no control on my phone to orient it) is the pipe running from the sink.

    Would it be fine to tap directly into the PVC using a large Y, given the P-trap is above the floor in the cabinet? Or do I need to make sure it drains into a trap first? I could achieve about a 45 degree downwards angle from the machine after the initial drop down from the bench, would this be enough to stop water backing up into it? Possibly needs a vent.

    223ACBC7-0C7F-444A-BD8E-84214ED33243.jpg

  8. #8
    Senior Member Lyrebird's Avatar
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    What's the drain hose diameter on the rinser?

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    Without a specific model in mind just yet, a cursory search suggests the drain fittings are a 1/2” barb, so I guess a half inch hose?

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    Quote Originally Posted by chewbacca View Post
    Might be able to get away with a single regulator, will have to see.
    Single regulator should be fine, I install a lot of commercial machines and jug rinsers and commonly have a 350kpa pressure limiting valve feeding a tee fitting, with one line off to a filter then to the machine, and the other line to the rinser via a shutoff tap, and either braided hose or John Guest push-fit hose and connectors. A lot of jug rinsers come out of the box with 1/2" thread into the rinser (so a 1/2" braided hose fits) plus an elbow fitting and an adapter so you can use John Guest hose.

    Drain hose size is usually 12mm (1/2").

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MorganGT View Post
    Single regulator should be fine, I install a lot of commercial machines and jug rinsers and commonly have a 350kpa pressure limiting valve feeding a tee fitting, with one line off to a filter then to the machine, and the other line to the rinser via a shutoff tap, and either braided hose or John Guest push-fit hose and connectors. A lot of jug rinsers come out of the box with 1/2" thread into the rinser (so a 1/2" braided hose fits) plus an elbow fitting and an adapter so you can use John Guest hose.

    Drain hose size is usually 12mm (1/2").
    Perfect, thanks for the clarification!

    Through an ongoing skill trade with my roaster friend, I scored one of these (BNIB) in return for future art. Very stoked with that deal.

    I did a rough mockup of my intended layout. May not be quite to scale but close enough for concept purposes. Will need to fab a small box to rest the low profile unit on it, but I think I'll split the difference between the two heights so I can fit taller cups under the spouts (mostly in a take-away scenario) and use a platform for any shorter cups. Probably house some jugs and maybe cups (ACME in matching sea green) in a staggered stair behind it to the left just so I fill that void, and keep grinder and knock box to the right. I want to keep the machine as modular as possible so if I ever upgrade or need to move things, there's not big holes in the bench
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by chewbacca; 11th August 2019 at 01:24 PM.
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    Behmor Brazen - $249 - Free Freight
    102DB096-88D5-4833-8003-F30577B37CB3.jpg
    Picked up the rinser today.

    Gonna work perfectly. Matches the slotted steel on the top of the machine too.

    Will need to make sure it sits lower than regular to allow steam wand to fit into jugs. The alternative is to put it to the right of the machine but I think it makes most sense to keep milk on the wand side.

    My mate has offered to come by and help hook up the water once kitchen is done, so thats one less thing I gotta worry about.

    In the meanwhile I will get started on the box that will join the tray to the machine.
    Dimal and level3ninja like this.



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