It will polish out, but it may take some time :(
I have, like an idiot, used a scouring pad on the back of my Giotto Rocket just above the name plaque. I thought itd be ok as its a fairly worn pad, just the regular green type, not steel wool or anything.
It has left some scuff marks on the stainless steel - is there anything I can do about this or do I need to live with it?
It will polish out, but it may take some time :(
If the scuff mark is fairly superficial, use brasso and a clean soft cloth. Itll polish it back to proper shine again.
Thanks both, Ill buy some brasso tomorrow.
Ouch...even more ouch if its on an island bench. But I guess it just needs a little elbow grease to polish out. A classic palm to the forehead moment. :-[
On the bright side, after youre done youll probably have the shiniest Giotto around. ;D
I could suggest Autosol which you can get from most auto shops. I use it on my Staintune exhausts on my motorbike. It is also suitable for household goods. Suggest you use google and look at it. It will buff and polish well, but wont remove deep down scratches.
Thanks again for all the suggestions. Its more of a buff than deep scratches so Im hopeful it can be rectified.
OHHHH--those green pads are really tough.
They are often used to put a satin finish on hardened knife blades, and they will promptly remove hard blueing from the best rifle.
Dont let them near a polished surface. (I know--shutting the door after the horse has bolted.)
I have found the order of cutting ability as follows:
Meguiars metal polish - not sure of the exact name, you can feel its less gritty thatn autosol
Silvo (which is like brasso, but meant for silver things - not sure of exact difference)
So you can start at the bottom and go harsher if required, then once the scratches are out, go finer for a better shine.
use a decent cloth like microfibre so you dont reintroduce new scratches.
rub with one cloth, let it go off (like car polish) then buff off with another.
It will take a bit of elbow grease but should be quite easy.
Or you could get a little drill buffing attachment from bunnings if its really bad to speed things up, but then be very careful you dont overheat things.
I do up cars and have dabbled in metal polishing as a hobby.
Autosol is way too course. I would never recommend it for polishing anything but very hard chrome. polished stainless =/= chrome - different surfaces requiring different treatment.
Mothers is a far gentler metal polishing and is great from anything from polished alloys/aluminium (much softer), through to stainless and chrome.
Ultimately if the scratches are deep, hand polishing will not get them out without introducing its own fine scratching/swirl marks. The best way to fix it is polishing it with a proper polishing wheel and buffing compound, like it was done from the factory.
If the panel is removable, you should be able to take it to a metal polisher and it will cost next to nothing. It will take about 1 minute on the buff to fix.
I wouldnt touch autosol, or brasso.
Arent the giotto panels chromed stainless? You will not find a suitable product to bring it back to perfect.
California Customs "purple polish" is a very gentle metal polish, often used for alloys and chrome, but even still, its probably a little too abraisive.
Kafes advice on removing the panel and taking it to a pro is a good one.
My used giotto has a number of scuff marks, from poor cleaning (wiping down with dirty cloths, etc) only on the front panel where all the hardware is attached, the sides and back are perfect. The top tray (cup warmer) just isnt shiney, AT ALL, which is fine with me, it has a purpose.
Giottos (and any shiney machine) should be cleaned with a microfibre cloth, or perhaps paper towels.
or these guys, used them on my drip tray. Now I cover before i set my cup down
cost me a $20 for the drip tray
Agree the idea about taking it to a polishing specialist is a good one.
I would be weary of using paper towels, they can sometimes introduce fine scratches, microfibre is much safer.
Here is a recent thread on the cape cod polishing cloth:
Thanks again for all the advice. Doesnt look like Silvo is working. I am not sure I could or would take the back panel off the Giotto to take to a polisher.
I have simliar problem here too.
The 10 yrs old Giotto I just got have a lot of scratch on it.
I start to try to use the buffing wheel with the red compound (did not know whats that) from bunnings to attache to my driller.
However, did not see too much improving.
Got another bottle of brosso, elbow grease them. The same, not too much different.
Anyone suggest other buff work or I need to take the panel to the professional polish workshop now...
Okay, The problem might be that youre working with scratches too deep to be polished out using Jewelers Rouge (which is what the red stuff is, Iron Oxide Paste, if you want to be technical) on a buffing wheelOriginally Posted by 64686B6E69706269070 link=1323169973/14#14 date=1325575753
Might need to go to 000 steel wool or 1500+ grit-paper (which you should be able to get at any good automotive store, if bunnings doesnt have it) to smooth over the scratches and then use the buffing wheel.
if the paper doesnt cut deep enough to smooth over scratches, you may need to go with a courser grade
Brasso is near useless for getting scratches out of hard SS, the particles are too soft to really cut away the edges of the scratch
Earlier ones were definitely chrome over SS as I saw two panels with defective plating which peeled (and were replaced). Id think theyre still chromed to provide the mirror finish.
Id be placing any polishing job in the hands of a professional.
Thanks for Laughing@fate and Talk_coffee
I may just get a cheap sand paper (1500+ grit) first.
If I failed, I will send it to a professional one.
The problem is I try to yellow page and google it, no "metal polish" shop in Townsville.
Any other keyword I should try?
As a non-native English speaker, sometimes I have problem to find the correct term in some certain uncommon stuff.
Take it somewhere that does polishing/plating before you start sanding, especially if its chromed.
Try searching for metal platers, chroming places, or even car/motorbike restoration shops, they should at least be able to tell you who deals with chrome restoration or metal polishing.
I bought the sand paper (1500), but I did not use that since I read your post.
I start to skip through the yellow page to see if there any keyword list as you suggestion.
I will ring them to get some idea about how much it will cost me.
But thanks again before I ruin my panel.
Hi gbatterley and Colin,
If youre still looking for a solution you could try "Tripoli Powder". Its used to cut and polish stainless, chrome, gemstones, wood. Basically loads of things. It is used in different grades for different jobs. It is probably the abrasive in the red jewellers compound already mentioned.
The wood "grade" works with chrome, stainless, copper and brass. It comes in powder form. Use it on a damp cloth with some elbow grease.* Its available online from various woodcraft and metalworking toolshops (jet tool (Colin theyre also in Tville too) carbatec, carrols woodcraft) or the australian polish manufacturer (ubeaut/u-beaut). Colin - you could ask the local woodworking club* - somewhere near Pimlico I think. Either way, these specialty suppliers are often cheaper for consumables than the chains like Bunnings.
As other posters have stated. If you start too coarse you will make things worse.
As a hobby restorer, my technique for *restoring* finishes in metal and wood, is to start with the smallest area possible with a middle grade working by hand and see if it looks improved. If the scratches are still too deep Ill go coarser still, again by hand. Once I see blemishes start to "blend in" with the rest* then I start going to increasingly finer grades. At the finest grades after I know Im helping and not damaging, I go motorised.* Having said that every job it different in some way esp when the scratch comes with a dent or another shape change.
In the last stage of polishing, I always ditching my wool buffing wheels for a Swansdown cloth wheel - about $25 to $35 usually. Compared to lambswool they are faster,* softer (once you start using them with a polish), dont overheat (unless you really force them) and less prone to clogging as the polish heats up and starts to cook.
I will look into that when I have time to do the polish.
Now I got some trouble with machine itself...>_<