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Thread: Decent Espresso Machines (DE1) - Any thoughts?

  1. #1751
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    Gene Cafe Coffee Roaster $850 - Free Beans Free Freight
    Quote Originally Posted by decentespresso View Post



    I totally agree. 32 minutes at 60C is needed to accomplish Sterilization.
    Umm a bit of misinformation creeping in here.

    60 oC gets used because it is the base for calculating Pasteurisation Units: total PU is given by time x 1.393^(T-60) where T is the temperature in oC and time is in minutes, so one minute at 60 degrees is one PU.

    The number of PU required for "sterilisation"* is dependent on the medium and the organism(s) involved: 25 PU is considered adequate for many things like beer and cider. I think the figure of 32 you quote is for milk but I've never worked in dairy processing so I can't confirm.

    Since the aim of pasteurisation is to treat the material and minimise heat damage, it isn't common practice to pasteurise water on the simple grounds that it doesn't accumulate heat damage.

    On the other hand if the challenge organism is say Bacillus cereus (common contaminant of cooked rice) no amount of time at 60 oC will be adequate to kill the spores.

    * normally defined as 6 log kill, eg less than one viable organism left from 1,000,000 starters.
    Last edited by Lyrebird; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:50 PM.
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  2. #1752
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    Quote Originally Posted by decentespresso View Post
    One option I'm contemplating is a "refit kit" for your DE1+/DE1PRO, which turns it into a DE1XL.

    Here's what it looks like at the moment, but it's not yet done.
    As you noted, all cables and tubes are hidden.

    To refit a DE1+/DE1PRO into a DE1XL, we would need to ship you:
    1) new longer legs
    2) a new longer cover
    3) a new tablet stand
    4) a new back
    5) four magnetized standoffs
    6) the countersunk bracket itself.
    7) pro steam wand (optional)

    Though, note, you don't need to countersink this. It has legs, so if you have a 6cm hole in the back of your counter, the tubes go straight down and are almost totally hidden. Countersinking totally hides the cables.

    The idea here is: if you're going to cut a hole in your countertop, you might as well change the DE1 chassis too, and make it all look as nice as possible.
    G'day John

    As the shipping of my 220V Pro is imminent, how would the longer cover fit with the catering / plumbing kit "hooked on the back"? Hopefully all pipes would still remain out of sight?

    Anyway, if it is not too late, feel free to treat me as a guinea pig and send the longer cover with the machine "but only if that works for you". I was actually going to build a "clip on" extra cover to hide all the working parts at the rear anyway when using the catering kit. If you decide to do this, naturally I would send you feedback as to how it worked. FYI, my Pro will be at two different locations for a while - one plumbed in (large filtered rainwater tank - no pressure, just gravity), one free standing.

    I also realise that the longer cover may not fit in the current travelling case - so if this is too much of a hassle please just send me the standard / slightly modded (stainless front panel) Pro I ordered and I will be 100% happy with that anyway. At the end of the day, I am not really a "caring about cosmetics" guy*...

    Regards

    TampIt
    * Although I must say that the Decent milk jug is a beautiful piece of art... stunning - well done.

    PS: Your "mea culpa" post https://coffeesnobs.com.au/brewing-e...tml#post644621 stated some p/f springs have zero clearance. After half a dozen emails, I hope Mirjam finally understood that a) my spare p/f holder (received way back when I paid for the Pro plus extras as a "separate accessory shipment" with the Decent jug and a skale etc) has a spring with zero clearance, so a replacement spring is hopefully on the way with my new toy and b) I never did ask for a stainless steel rear panel in lieu of a mirrored one - it was the front one all the time.

    PPS: The countersunk hole: the "John design" looks better to me. If someone couldn't cut out that shape by using a jigsaw or a bandsaw they are self evidently not a carpenter's *******. I have cut way more complex shapes than that using either, so the degree of difficulty is fairly minimal. Mind you, taking the cables out from underneath would be a far better idea. T.

  3. #1753
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    PPS: The countersunk hole: the "John design" looks better to me. If someone couldn't cut out that shape by using a jigsaw or a bandsaw they are self evidently not a carpenter's *******. I have cut way more complex shapes than that using either, so the degree of difficulty is fairly minimal. Mind you, taking the cables out from underneath would be a far better idea. T.
    I am clearly not a 'carpenter's bootlace' (or whatever ********* stands for). I would find that a difficult shape to cut out of granite with either a bandsaw or a jigsaw, but happy to learn how from those more knowledgeable. Of course I wouldn't be so assumptive to assume that all kitchens worldwide have the some countertop as me, but degree of difficulty in various materials would be worth taking into account.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 338 View Post
    I am clearly not a 'carpenter's bootlace' (or whatever ********* stands for). I would find that a difficult shape to cut out of granite with either a bandsaw or a jigsaw, but happy to learn how from those more knowledgeable. Of course I wouldn't be so assumptive to assume that all kitchens worldwide have the some countertop as me, but degree of difficulty in various materials would be worth taking into account.
    G'day 338

    You are correct, granite is harder to cut, and I should not have presumed everyone has the same wood / laminate benches - especially as I used to have granite benches in my own kitchen (and may again if the finances work out).

    However a standard DeWalt cut-off saw with a diamond cutting wheel and cutting fluid goes through it pretty accurately, cleanly and quickly. A local engineering company's computer laser cutter is even easier, if a lot slower.

    I did a similar sized irregular hole (against my wishes) in a single "large office desk sized" piece of 4" thick granite (including solid tops and sides, which weighed about two tonnes all up). "She who used to have to be obeyed" over-ruled me when her new sewing machine was not allowed to have a cable showing and "the height was wrong". My suggestion to build the floor up or to cut the legs was just not good enough (sigh). Took just over 30 minutes and the final shaping was also done with another smaller diameter diamond cutting wheel in a standard angle grinder (and final polish with a Dremel - which took well over an hour - far longer than the bulk cuts and quick cleanup).

    TampIt

  5. #1755
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    Tampit I have always used diamond cutting wheels on an angle grinder and a masonry bit on slow rotation (with no impact). The most important tool of all was the large overlap on whatever I was installing, covered up any indescretions, which did happen. That is the part I was bringing this up for, John can control that and a 30mm or 40mm overlap is better than 10mm if doing an unusual shape in something like granite, etc

    Your laser suggestion is excellent for a new install.
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  6. #1756
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    Quote Originally Posted by 338 View Post
    Tampit I have always used diamond cutting wheels on an angle grinder and a masonry bit on slow rotation (with no impact). The most important tool of all was the large overlap on whatever I was installing, covered up any indescretions, which did happen. That is the part I was bringing this up for, John can control that and a 30mm or 40mm overlap is better than 10mm if doing an unusual shape in something like granite, etc

    Your laser suggestion is excellent for a new install.
    G'day 338

    Laser - that is what the place I bought it from use nowadays - they just draw a shape on the screen and "print / cut it out" of the granite. Slow but really, really precise.

    Overlap - Yep, I agree. If it is Conan or his dumber cousin(s) driving it the more overlap the better. However if you do the old "measure twice, cut once" even 10mm is plenty of overlap - that sewing machine (complete with a lump at the rear for cables and a taper at the front for some unfathomable reason - hence the odd shape) had a rubber gasket which would not have been more than 1/4" wide - which is why I resorted to a three stage job with a Dremel for the final finish. I reckon 40mm would have been well within the DeWalt's tolerance. The annoying thing is that it made that stunning desk / bench worthless for any other use - even a different sewing machine if it were smaller - fortunately it is not my prob anymore.

    Perhaps John could consider a larger overlap as an option... although tape is cheap and Conan's mob deserve no better.

    FWIW, I may be biased at the moment - "my Acer laptop doesn't work, the battery is flat and it won't charge" says a friend of my mums - coming around complete with an completely incorrect voltage IBM charger... sheesh - at least get the brands matched. Idiot. I am half expecting his wife / mistress / whatever next week with the same issue from the other mismatched laptop / charger.

    A quick note - all masonry bits and drills are far from equal. I mainly use Sutton and Josco and they both prefer higher impact rates (say 2,000+ beats per minute) and higher speeds (I usually go flat out which is near to 1700 revs from memory) plus cutting fluid. My other bits (Frost, Irwin, B and D etc) are much slower and "impact off" is better. Strangely my old AEG and Bosch mains powered drills (i.e. big construction beasties) only do about 150 beats per minute so they are pretty useless for "new drill bit" granite cutting - they take a lot longer and leave a much bigger mess (optional chunks of granite included for free). If you do a lot of work with granite I would recommend a bit of a tinker with some of the newer "high speed / high no of smaller beats" battery drills and bits. Ditto diamond cutters - about 3 ice ages ago I "somewhat helped" a stonemason build a dry wall using local rock (granite with a fair bit of quartz). We used a huge, slowly rotating diamond saw and oceans of (recycling) fluid. The newer cutters would have ripped through the same stuff in a fraction of the time with less shattering (probably none).

    Times change technologies I guess. Says he now slavering over the arrival of his new toy - which I just found out has shipped in between these posts today(!!!). Hopefully it beats hell out of my old "manual lever benchmark for great coffee".

    Enjoy your cuppa - this is a great light roasted Colombian SO and it is going down like a good coffee liqueur (think 1970's Tia Maria, before they stuffed it up?) at the moment. Hopefully the Decent Pro will top it "in the cup" later this fortnight.


    TampIt
    Last edited by TampIt; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:04 PM.

  7. #1757
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    A new Decent Espresso model



    Juuuuust about finished. I intend to announce it next month.

    This model is intended for coffee carts, cafes, designer kitchens: anywhere you would want cables and tubing to be hidden from sight.

    Internally, this model is the same as the DE1PRO, except that:
    - it has our Pro steam wand,
    - totally different chassis (legs/cover/back/tablet stand)
    - a countersunk bracket (optional).

    Yes, your DE1+ and DE1PRO models can be retrofitted, if you buy all the changed parts.

    This "DE1XL" model will cost about 20% more than the DE1PRO.

    -john

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    Decent at MICE coffee show

    mice-decent.jpg


    You’ll be able to find Decent at 3 locations:


    LEARN ABOUT DECENT TECHNOLOGY

    Our own stand (101) with a DE1XL and a DE1PRO.

    Matt Perger has roasted the same beans two different ways. He and I will be crafting our espresso extractions to make each roast taste its best.


    TASTE DECENT ESPRESSO AND DECENT POUR OVERS

    At Veneziano Coffee Roasters stand #80 Scott Rao will be using our latest prototype pour over portafilter baskets, and explaining the theory and practice of Decent Pour Overs, and serving them for tasting.

    There will be two DE1PRO machines, as we’ll also be pulling espresso shots.



    TASTE ZEST’S COFFEE

    Zest Specialty Coffee Roasters at stand 78 will have 3 DE1PRO machines, making espresso shots with their beans. Decent engineer Ben Champion will be on hand to assist.



    UPCOMING SHOW SPECIAL

    We will be selling the Decent Espresso machines we bring to MICE at a 38% discount. You will need to pick the machine up at MICE in the last hour on saturday.

    Look for an announcement next week…

    -john
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  9. #1759
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    all-white DE1XL

    white.jpg

    I was wondering if there was much interest out there in an all-white DE1XL ?

    -john
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  10. #1760
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    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    As the shipping of my 220V Pro is imminent, how would the longer cover fit with the catering / plumbing kit "hooked on the back"? Hopefully all pipes would still remain out of sight?
    maybe a picture will help, its actually a still from a video I uploaded recently

    screen 2019-02-01 at 10.24.46 AM.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    Anyway, if it is not too late, feel free to treat me as a guinea pig and send the longer cover with the machine "but only if that works for you".
    Unfortunately, we've only made one bracket and one cover set, so I have none to send out. I made one each, of three different variations to see them in action. Making them as one offs like this is really expensive, which is why I only make one.

    We recently changed from using a prototyping service to instead paying more to have our actual mass manufacturer make the one-offs. The reason is, the prototyping service uses different manufacturing techniques (mostly 3D CNC) and the result is almost always perfect, perfect, perfect. We've been stung before, as we transition from a prototype to mass manufacture, with things then looking different because a much less expensive manufacturing process is used.

    At any rate, I decided to go with the "DE1XL" approach, where the bracket is rectangular (not odd shaped), the chassis is extended and a magnetically held back panel hides everything. I figured that if you're going to cut into your countertop, you might as well do everything right and hide the tubing and wires correctly.

    I'm hoping to have all these parts in hand toward the end of March. If you end up wanting to go down this route, since you already purchased I will sell the refit kit at a discount, just for the difference in price between the models, not the more expensive approach of of buying the parts la carte.

    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    I was actually going to build a "clip on" extra cover to hide all the working parts at the rear anyway when using the catering kit. If you decide to do this, naturally I would send you feedback as to how it worked. FYI, my Pro will be at two different locations for a while - one plumbed in (large filtered rainwater tank - no pressure, just gravity), one free standing.
    Sounds like you and I are thinking along the same lines.

    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    I also realise that the longer cover may not fit in the current travelling case - so if this is too much of a hassle please just send me the standard / slightly modded (stainless front panel) Pro I ordered and I will be 100% happy with that anyway. At the end of the day, I am not really a "caring about cosmetics" guy*...
    That's correct, the longer case will not fit in the current suitcase. We have to send you this stuff in a separate box and you will spend a half-hour with a screwdriver converting it over. It's not at all difficult, I think the entire process is ~15 screws (cover, legs, tablet, standoffs).

    Quote Originally Posted by 338 View Post
    I am clearly not a 'carpenter's bootlace' (or whatever ********* stands for). I would find that a difficult shape to cut out of granite with either a bandsaw or a jigsaw, but happy to learn how from those more knowledgeable. Of course I wouldn't be so assumptive to assume that all kitchens worldwide have the some countertop as me, but degree of difficulty in various materials would be worth taking into account.
    As mentioned above, I decided to go with the rectangular, but longer countersunk shape, so that all the tubes and wires can be hidden. The combination of "hard to cut" and "budget solution that doesn't go all the way" was not a winning idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by TampIt View Post
    Perhaps John could consider a larger overlap as an option... although tape is cheap and Conan's mob deserve no better.
    I much prefer the aesthetics of a narrow overlap. We tried renders of a thicker one and it was kind of ugly.

    This bracket is currently made of 2mm thick stainless steel, and is virtually indestructible. It's a bit over-speced.

    Because we went with a rectangular shape, I think cutting the whole will not be very difficult now. Fabrice, who doesn't have any experience doing this, was able to competently do it the first time, though actually he did destroy one pallet practicing.

    -john

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    G'day John

    I suspected your new XL panel would not fit your specially designed case. If I had designed your case it wouldn't have much extra clearance anyway (to keep everything a lot neater and save on shipping in some instances).

    As it happens my Pro went out the door as I posted my last two "decent posts". Thanks in advance (now the countdown really starts for me).

    I couldn't agree more about the overlap - a few mm is plenty. Even your other, more complex, shape is easy enough to cut for anyone moderately skilled.

    Glad the bracket is good and solid (not over-spec in my view - the thought of it breaking is pretty horrific).

    Enjoy MICE.

    TampIt

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    Were headed to Melbourne!

    mice2b.jpg

    Find us at the MICE trade show, at:
    - our own stand #101
    (with appearances by Matt Perger)

    - Veneziano stand #80
    (with Scott Rao making pour-overs
    and Luca making espresso)

    - Zest stand #78 making espresso
    (and Decent Engineer Ben assisting)

    Our HK headquarters we will be closed this week for Chinese New Year.

    -john

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    Hi guys,

    John has already said what's going on, but just a note from me to say that, yes, I'm looking forward to being on the Veneziano stand and getting a chance to play around with the decent machines and make coffees for people. If you're at the show, please do make yourself known to us!

    Cheers,
    Luca

  14. #1764
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    Quote Originally Posted by luca View Post
    Hi guys,

    John has already said what's going on, but just a note from me to say that, yes, I'm looking forward to being on the Veneziano stand and getting a chance to play around with the decent machines and make coffees for people. If you're at the show, please do make yourself known to us!

    Cheers,
    Luca
    Awesome! I'll be at MICE I'll hopefully pop in and say hey! Will be a great expo, new location this year too so should be interesting

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    Hello All,

    New to the CS forums, so forgive me if the post is maybe not in the right place.

    I was looking for some opinions on the DE1+PRO compared to the Londinium R. Hopefully from some owners of both machines.

    For a little background, I currently have this setup
    Londinium I (Pre R model)
    Monolith Flat grinder
    Compak W10 WBC
    USRC sample roaster, 99% of the coffee I consume is home roasted. Beans usually coming from Sweet Marias or Royal Coffee Crown Jewels.

    I was considering adding the Londinium R to my coffee bar, but the Decent DE1+PRO really has my attention now. I roast mostly light roasts, maybe a few toward the medium side. Some of my favorites are natural Ethiopians for straight espresso and Costa Rica for milk drinks.

    I am really liking the ability of the DE1 to customize shot parameters to get the most out of each different bean/roast. I would be most appreciative for any feedback on the LR vs DE1PRO.

    -Nate

  16. #1766
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    Hi Nate, there is a interesting review on the Londinium R here: https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthrea...-Why-I-sold-it

    Cheers

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    I now have one DE1PRO available for sale at 38% off, to take away with you after 3pm today, at the MICE trade show.

    Come by our booth (#101) today (it's "public day" here today) to check it out.

    We had previously sold out all 3 "show specials" in the first 6 minutes of the show, but one person's wife changed her mind when it came to settle the bill that evening.

    and here's a small clip from the show:

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    First full 300 view of the upcoming DE1XL model.



    One note: that cable coming off the tablet is going to the huuuge screen we used for the trade show. You wouldn't normally have that cable there.

    -john
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    Would you have any interest in a countersunk pitcher rinser?

    I've sourced one I quite like, and with a "flojet" like device, use it to rinse my portafilter after each shot. It's hugely cut down my time to make each espresso, especially since our high-extraction Decent shots tend to create sloppy pucks. The pitcher rinser solves that.

    At the MICE trade show, I used a sous vide heater to warm the pitcher rinser water to 60C, so that this technique didn't much cool down my portafilter.

    Here's a view of the setup from MICE, alongside the new DE1XL model.

    And regarding the DE1XL:
    - it will be priced at USD$3999 (and other currencies)
    - however, an upgrade kit will be available to all current DE1+/DE1PRO users, at the discounted price of $3999 minus "whatever you already paid" (ie, the price difference).
    - You'll need 15 minutes, a Torx T10 and Phillips screwdriver, to do the conversion.
    - Countersinking is optional.
    - I'll start taking orders in a few weeks for the DE1XL. Not sure if it'll only be in black, or also possibly in white.

    New leg design on DE1XL:

    preview-full-image-1.png


    FYI: XL means "extra long"

    Here is what it looks like NOT countersunk.

    IMG_9739.jpeg

    You can hide the cables/tubing without countersinking, if you have a small hole in countertop.

    -john

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    I'm curious how countersinking affects the skale under the drip tray trick, and how the 3D printed adaptor works with the XL drip tray. Am I right in thinking you can no longer see he skale but it still talks with the tablet? Would the adaptor need to be modified or are the drip trays the same?

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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    I'm curious how countersinking affects the skale under the drip tray trick, and how the 3D printed adaptor works with the XL drip tray. Am I right in thinking you can no longer see he skale but it still talks with the tablet? Would the adaptor need to be modified or are the drip trays the same?
    You could still put the scale underneath the drip tray, but you'd have to forgo plumbing in the drip tray if you did that. The problem is not so much the countersinking as much as the plumbing that connects to the bottom of the drip tray. If you plumb your drip tray, you can no longer connect the scale underneath it. But yes, even if you did but the scale underneath an un-plumbed tray, it would be a bit inconvenient as you would need to make sure that you have USB power to that scale and that it remains paired with the tablet. Not a great setup.

    What I did at mice was use the decent scale prototype I have on top of the drip tray.

    screen 2019-02-15 at 5.05.49 PM.jpg

    However, on the third day I was having Bluetooth hell (50 bluetooth TVs announcing themselves at full power) and was unable to pair with the scale on this DE1XL (oddly, the other machine was fine), and so just used "shot time" to automatically end the shot. This actually worked fine, since the blooming espresso clocked in at 61 seconds consistently. In a production setting, that's probably what I would recommend as it's nice to have full clear access to the drip tray and be able to flush without needing to worry about wiping down the scale afterwards.

    Regarding the Bluetooth hell, that was a good learning experience, and I'm working on a solution. It appears that if you use android settings to manually pair to a device, that locks it so that it appears to your program before anything else which is broadcasting in competition. That's probably a good workaround for people who are planning on being in Bluetooth hell situations. To test this solution, I've temporarily removed the "unpair" which my app was doing automatically, that had been suggested by the scale manufacturer.

    – John
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    "Smart Espresso Profiler's" Gabor is also a film-maker (and a lever machine maker), and his "Roasted" movies are some of my favorite short films about coffee:



    He's recently bought a Decent, and is making short movies about it. The first will give you a bit of insight into how we put everything together right before shipping.



    and the 2nd video is unboxing.

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    Is your web shop turned off while you are away? I was checking out your double-wall cups, but no prices and no option to buy appears.

    Unless there is a glitch in my internet connection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by decentespresso View Post
    "Smart Espresso Profiler's" Gabor is also a film-maker (and a lever machine maker), and his "Roasted" movies are some of my favorite short films about coffee:


    Loving that roasting video, thanks for sharing that John!

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    Very nice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve7 View Post
    Is your web shop turned off while you are away? I was checking out your double-wall cups, but no prices and no option to buy appears.
    Unless there is a glitch in my internet connection.
    <sigh> technology prefers humans who work seven days a week.

    I was making some changes to the website on Friday, in preparation of our new DE1XL model, and broke something in the process.

    I just arrived to the office on Monday morning and it should be fine now.

    There's a big database file, in JSON format, of every product and everything about it.
    https://decentespresso.com/js/data/decent_products.js

    If there's anything invalid in that data file, JavaScript chokes.

    PS: the reason I gave the link to the file above is that it's very much meant to be used by other people who might want to tap into our parts database.

    John

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    Tying God shots to profiles

    I’ve been giving some thought about how God shots and profile should be tied together. I frequently make several gunshot references of the same profile, as I’m dialing-in the grind and dose each one named like this:


    • Gentle and Sweet
    • Gentle and Sweet 2
    • Gentle and Sweet 3
    • Gentle and Sweet 4
    • etc…


    What I’m thinking of doing, is making it so that if a God shot exists with exactly the same name as a profile, that when you load the profile, the corresponding god shot reference is automatically loaded.

    The thinking behind this is:

    • the current three color line on the chart, shows what the machine will do (ie the profile)
    • the god shot reference shows what the puck should do


    in an ideal world, they should be the same, we all know that the coffee puck calls the shots. :-)

    The upside of my doing this feature is that the god shot reference would give you a real reference line to follow, in trying to dialing in this new profile you just loaded.

    The downside is that you would have more lines on the page, and that can cause confusion. You need to be able to understand or ignore all those lines.

    The eventual goal I have is to ship the decent espresso machine with god shot references for all of the Factory included profiles. I think that would greatly assist people in changing t grind and dose as appropriate for each recipe.

    Would love to hear your thoughts on this idea.…

    – John

    screen 2019-02-18 at 11.58.13 AM.jpg

    screen 2019-02-18 at 11.58.04 AM.jpg

  28. #1778
    Senior Member level3ninja's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good idea, though like you say extra lines can be confusing. I suggest a master on/off toggle, as well as an additional toggle in each profile OR god shot. So either every profile or every god shot would have a toggle to turn an individual good shot loading automatically. Gives people options to have a particular shot they want to chase and maybe another profile they just want to run and not worry too much, or have it "blank" so they can see what they want to see on its own.

    Out of curiosity what would the overlay look like?

  29. #1779
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    Quote Originally Posted by level3ninja View Post
    Out of curiosity what would the overlay look like?
    Here's an example of what the screen looks like before you pull a shot, if you have a God shot loaded.

    Screenshot_2019-02-17-22-50-04.jpg

    On the top chart, which shows pressure, the pale thick green line shows the pressure curve of the previous shot which I decided was a God shot reference.

    Note how the three color (even thicker) line behind it, which is the profile definition, is a bit different. The reason is that preinfusion is set to timeout at a maximum of 20 seconds *or* a four bar threshold. In practice, that 20 second timeout never happens, and the four bar threshold causes preinfusion to end around 12 seconds.

    Also note, that the profile decline to six bar (the reddish colored component of the line), doesn't happen for long on my reference shots. There is only a slight decline for a few seconds, because my reference shot was pulled to only 28 seconds when it reached the shot weight (2:1) I desired, and then stopped by weight.

    The middle chart is showing water in (blue line) and espresso coffee out (brown line) as flow rates in mL/s. Slowly rising flow indicates a little bit of acidity in the cup, whereas greatly accelerating flow indicates a lot of acidity, probably unpleasant. If you want to reduce acidity, you want flow to remain at the same rate throughout the main extraction. You could do that by lowering the pressure faster and sooner on this shot.

    Finally, the bottom chart shows what temperature the puck was that for this shot. The declining temperature probably indicates that I had just previously made a 98 blooming espresso, and not waited long enough for the group had to cool, So the beginning of the shot was a bit warmer than it should've been. I should've flushed the group head for a few seconds when changing between radically different temperature profiles.

    One last note: the X axis for the Pressure chart doesn't match the other 2, because the Profile is much time-longer. It has almost 55s of potential run-time, whereas the actual reference shot ran to 28s, which you can see as the X axis for Flow and Temperature. I probably should lock all X axis to the same range to help readability.

    -john
    level3ninja likes this.



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