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**A_M** · 25 December 2009, 01:06 AM

Re: Power switch

Originally posted by 043122430 link=1261656689/0#0 date=1261656689

Hi All

Well yesterday morning I went to turned the machine and nothing happened my first thought was not now one day be for Christmas bugger

After checking power connection then water level all ok it turned out to be the power on off switch by moving the toggle around a little the power light flicked on and off >

.

I jumped on the phone to one of our Site sponsors COFFEE CRAFT from who I purchased my machine to see what they could do to help me out and low and behold they sent me a new switch Strait away and it arrived 10:30am today now thats service [smiley=tekst-toppie.gif]

So I would like to thank the Guys and Girls at Coffee Craft for there great service and wish them a merry Christmas

Cheers Gra..

Ps. any ideas what could cause this the machine is only 4 months old..

Without seeing teh switch... How long is a piece of string ;D ;D

:

Mechanical switches can have all sorts of issues as to teh actual type of contact and the mouldings/ assembly.. Then there is the issue of excessive load that can also cause problems.. Again depends on what the rating is, of the switch Vs actual load..

Like many things in life..... Sometimes things just fail.. :P

WHAT... Ya replaced a switch; Trust ya did not access the internals and that it was a ELV and not a mains switch... Oh... Ya had a qualified person do it

Stay safe and catch ya soon..

AM

;D

:

:P

[edit]Opps... Just viewed ya full post... That is due to dirty contacts (one side in particular) and a reasonable current load... 240V....

1: What is teh rating on the toggle switch... Can not make it out... Looks like 120V @ 20A (Not Acceptable breach of Australian standards).. Must be rated @ 240V... If it is switching mains and or 240V ???

One would like to think that other units are correct and not using an under rated switch..

This is about the insulation rating... Regardless of any EST results, as it may pass to start with but not rated correctly and could fail when running at twice the Manufacturers stated voltage.......

The condition of the insulation material is interesting... Arc over or getting very hot for some reason ?

2: What is the power rating of ya machine ? 1400W should be about only ~5A on full load, but surges could be significantly higher..

3: What was teh rating of the new switch... Do not tell me 120V... Mal will have a fit.. ;D[/edit]

**Gra** · 26 December 2009, 10:18 PM

Re: Power switch

Originally posted by 7C535A584F705C535C5A58505853493D0 link=1261656689/1#1 date=1261659969

1: What is teh rating on the toggle switch... Can not make it out... Looks like 120V @ 20A (Not Acceptable breach of Australian standards)..Must be rated @ 240V... If it is switching mains and or 240V ???

Checked it out today A M the switch is stamped on both sides one side its 20A 125v AC the other is 15A 250V AC...

Dirty contacts yes I could see that and the polls had burnt off and were not making contact.

I run the machine through a Merlin outdoor RCD which I thought would take care of any sure charges ?.

Every thing is honky Dorie with the new switch but I am concerned that it might be a on going problem and the switches are not cheap! still under warranty for now so lets hope it was bum switch from the beginning..

Cheers Gra.

**A_M** · 27 December 2009, 12:14 AM

Re: Power switch

Originally posted by 6D584B2A0 link=1261656689/2#2 date=1261822719

Originally posted by 7C535A584F705C535C5A58505853493D0 link=1261656689/1#1 date=1261659969

1: What is teh rating on the toggle switch... Can not make it out... Looks like 120V @ 20A (Not Acceptable breach of Australian standards)..Must be rated @ 240V... If it is switching mains and or 240V ???

Checked it out today A M the switch is stamped on both sides one side its 20A 125v AC the other is 15A 250V AC...

Dirty contacts yes I could see that and the polls had burnt off and were not making contact.

I run the machine through a Merlin outdoor RCD which I thought would take care of any sure charges ?.

Every thing is honky Dorie with the new switch but I am concerned that it might be a on going problem and the switches are not cheap! still under warranty for now so lets hope it was bum switch from the beginning..

Cheers Gra.

If marked for 240V and 15A; then it should be fine... Always best to check..

RCDs are great as a last chance protection system; if the path is to ground... Getting hung up Active to Neutral will not be detected, if there is no leakage....

They will not offer surge protection......

Here is hoping that the org switch was one that slipped through teh QC program and that it does not happen again... If it does... Then the cct may require a surge cap to reduce any current being drawn at switch on / off.

To assist... Try to only turn off; when the boiler is not being heated... Thus less current draw and reduced arcing as the switch contact open.

Take care..

AM

**Gra** · 27 December 2009, 06:38 PM

Re: Power switch

Originally posted by 16393032251A36393630323A323923570 link=1261656689/3#3 date=1261829658

If marked for 240V and 15A; then it should be fine... Always best to check..

RCDs are great as a last chance protection system; if the path is to ground...Getting hung up Active to Neutral will not be detected, if there is no leakage....

They will not offer surge protection......

Here is hoping that the org switch was one that slipped through teh QC program and that it does not happen again... If it does...Then the cct may require a surge cap to reduce any current being drawn at switch on / off.

To assist... Try to only turn off; when the boiler is not being heated...Thus less current draw and reduced arcing as the switch contact open.

Take care..

AM

Thanks for the info A M lets hope its a one off, I will take note of the heating element from now on as you mentioned Cheers Mate..

Gra.

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