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Coffee Beer Recipe Ideas

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  • Javaphile
    replied
    If you want less coffee oils in the brew you can filter the coffee through paper or cloth filters, doing so will remove oils. How much will be determined by a variety of variables.


    Java "Head 'o What?" phile

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  • DesigningByCoffee
    replied
    Originally posted by DesigningByCoffee View Post
    Dredging up an oldie…
    Just done a batch of Morgans Dark Ale, complete with Chocolate Rye grain and Fuggles Hops. Thought I'd try a coffee infused version while at it, so did a small batch of cold steep (230g coffee, about 1L water, 24hrs in fridge then filter through the aeropress) which was delicious on its own. The cold steep has a more cocoa like flavour than cold drip, so used this method which seemed more suitable to a dark beer. Took six bottle of my brew and added about an espresso cup (60ml or so) of the cold brew to each bottle before filling with the beer. We'll see in a few weeks how it goes!
    Tried the first bottle of this brew the other day. It was spectacular!

    The stand-alone brew is good - great head, good flavour, nice and dark - maybe with a little more bitterness than I'd normally like in a dark ale. Suspect this is the base ale plus the grain - so might back off the grain next time or go back to a whole chocolate grain rather than the rye I used this time.

    But now to the coffee ale - the sensory experience was amazing! The aroma, sweetness and syruppy mouthfeel that the coffee added was sensational. Settled down the bitterness and made a truly mulit-layered flavour profile. The only drawback was that the coffee oils killed the normlly great head - poured with a thick, brownish head which settled very quickly. No lack of carbonation in the body of the beer - it just couldn't stand up against the floating coffee oils!

    Well worth the experiment

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  • scotchparty1
    replied
    If you want to explore to the next level look into BIAB on a stovetop;
    Easy way to get into AG brewing, It won't set you back $$ and the beer gods will bless you with some fine brews.

    Leave a comment:


  • DesigningByCoffee
    replied
    Not another 'Alice down the Rabbit Hole' hobby!
    I'll need to do some more exploring …

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  • yabba
    replied
    Ideally an ale yeast should be kept around 20 - 22 degree's depending on which yeast you use. Its very easy to manipulate the starting SG with cans of malt extract. Very simply put less water in or boil it down allowing for a higher concentration of sugars after the water has evaporated. You may ask why you would boil it down, well simply if your going to make hop additions effective you will need to time your hop additions depending if you are wanting to bring out bitterness or aroma. So if you are boiling for 60 mins then you will need to allow for evaporation but it also allows for SG to be determined by yourself.

    All grain is a lot of work (relative to malt extract brewing). The next step if I may suggest is to buy non hopped extract (cans or tubs). This gives you a blank "flavor" profile to allow you to determine the hops and yeast which is what develops the flavor, bitterness and aroma when temp controlled. Real hops added over a 60 min boil will give exceptional results when using a good quality yeast such as wyeast without making the big step into all grain brewing. To explain, The kits of malt contain ISO hops which is added for ease. I'd liken it to using a coffee extract when making an iced coffee. Its going to have coffee like flavor but obviously very poor quality. Likewise hops react to heat and time in heat. Long boil = Bitterness. Short boil or added at flame out (Cooling down / not boiling) = aroma. And most importantly is yeast. Yeast imparts the characteristics as fermentation occurs and there are hundreds of types all with differing characteristics. Like coffee, it really comes down to how far along the path you want to go however its all fun regardless.

    Cheers Yabba

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  • DesigningByCoffee
    replied
    Thanks guys
    I am using a malt extract - a dark liquid malt from memory - previously I've used brew enhancer type dry malts. I do keep the measurements from day one, then log them daily until they plateau for 2-3 days, so if 1020 is a common range for these extracts, then I'm probably on the money. Temps are fairly stable - move the batch around the house depending on time of year to keep it in the low to mid 20's, so hoping the yeasts are fine.
    Haven't tried a grain mash brew, though does sound like fun - maybe one day I'm sure some of those allow for better a better head - the kits always seem a little light on, thought flavoursome.

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  • BPal75
    replied
    Are you brewing with malt extract? It's hard to get the SG down low when using extract because the fermentability is locked in during the extract process. So if you're using extract you don't have much control over that and it's common for them to finish around 1020. If you use grains, during the mash process make sure to keep your temps low, around 150F, and that should help.

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  • yabba
    replied
    Originally posted by DesigningByCoffee View Post
    Dredging up an oldie…

    Just done a batch of Morgans Dark Ale, complete with Chocolate Rye grain and Fuggles Hops. Thought I'd try a coffee infused version while at it, so did a small batch of cold steep (230g coffee, about 1L water, 24hrs in fridge then filter through the aeropress) which was delicious on its own. The cold steep has a more cocoa like flavour than cold drip, so used this method which seemed more suitable to a dark beer. Took six bottle of my brew and added about an espresso cup (60ml or so) of the cold brew to each bottle before filling with the beer. We'll see in a few weeks how it goes!

    BTW - home brew question. I've done 8-10 brews now, but have never had any batch get close to the 1005 SG that most recipes say the beer should reach before bottling. Mine all seem to plateau out at 1015-1020 SG after 5 days or so, so I bottle and they've all been fine. Could this be a dud hygrometer? Altitude? Water quality? Just interested really…

    Cheers Matt
    I'm guessing the hydrometer is fine however the easiest way to check is to put it into the water your brewing with and check for a zero reading (1.000). If its not, whatever it reads at is your "Zero" for future reference. FG is relevant to fermentation however its primarily relevant in comparison to OG (opening Gravity / Starting gravity). I would be measuring both and calculating ABV to be confident you have fermented most / all the "Sugars". You don't want to be bottling beer that has stalled in fermentation as you risk bottle bombs. You probably already know most of this but its worth mentioning the need for temp control depending on yeast type as it will determine the activity of the yeast and if it brews out or stalls not to mention positive flavor vs funky ones. You should be tracking your SG from day 1. While the brew is bubbling you know its brewing. Once you see it stop start measuring the SG again as you want to see a static SG for approx 3 days to be sure fermentation has stopped.
    Just my thoughts. Hope it helps.

    Cheers Yabba

    Leave a comment:


  • DesigningByCoffee
    replied
    Dredging up an oldie…

    Just done a batch of Morgans Dark Ale, complete with Chocolate Rye grain and Fuggles Hops. Thought I'd try a coffee infused version while at it, so did a small batch of cold steep (230g coffee, about 1L water, 24hrs in fridge then filter through the aeropress) which was delicious on its own. The cold steep has a more cocoa like flavour than cold drip, so used this method which seemed more suitable to a dark beer. Took six bottle of my brew and added about an espresso cup (60ml or so) of the cold brew to each bottle before filling with the beer. We'll see in a few weeks how it goes!

    BTW - home brew question. I've done 8-10 brews now, but have never had any batch get close to the 1005 SG that most recipes say the beer should reach before bottling. Mine all seem to plateau out at 1015-1020 SG after 5 days or so, so I bottle and they've all been fine. Could this be a dud hygrometer? Altitude? Water quality? Just interested really…

    Cheers Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • grantw
    replied
    Took a quick photo of my espresso stout, ignore the foam stand I was being lazy. It is delicious nonetheless
    Attached Files

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  • rollo87
    replied
    I've had a coffee porter before, dont remember the name or where I got it but it was an amazing mix

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  • themurphs
    replied
    Decided to taste the coffee ale yesterday,

    I have to say i was quite surprised how it tasted.
    faint after taste of coffee and sweeter than the brew without coffee added.
    The ale by itself is not a bad drop as well.

    Will wait 2 more weeks for next taste.

    Next time i am going for the espresso shots 2 days into fermentation to compare.

    Leave a comment:


  • Daniel78
    replied
    I've worked with this before. The most effective thing I've found is what Dave at Dave's Homebrew in North Sydney suggested. He said, if you want to have a coffee taste in your beer, then add proper coffee.

    I did my boil, and then about 2 days into fermentation I added one - or maybe it was two - shots of good espresso. It was in a porter-style beer if memory serves. And it was great. It wasn't overwhelming. I've tried dry-hopping with beans and all that stuff. But this was by far the best method. I've always thought Carlton Black had a distinct coffee taste to it, although I'm not the biggest fan of that particular brew.

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  • grantw
    replied
    It has been a grey rainy day in the gong today so it's a perfect reason to have an early taste of the espresso stout. I'm finding it quite good if a little under carbonated.

    There is a distinct coffee aroma on top of the normal roast malt, it's softer and more rounded. Flavour follows the aroma, with a distinct coffee flavour following the darker malt roastiness, no harshness or tannins. I'd call this an improvement over my earlier efforts, not that they were bad, but the coffee has a better spot in the flavour profile and balances well with the other malts. Pretty happy with the outcome. Once it's carbonated I will post a photo of its stouty goodness.

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  • themurphs
    replied
    Poured into the coffeesnobs bag, then squeezed into the fermenter,

    i read that the bags are unbleached, so according to the wife that is ok because no chemicals are used in the bag??
    Time will tell, plan to bottle on Sunday and taste in late November.

    Fingers crossed, if no good at least i have 11L of the "no coffee" brew left over and the knowledge of what not to do next time.

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