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  • #16
    Originally posted by nickrauksts View Post
    I think I found one contributing factor. After descaling last night and letting the machine heat up uninterrupted for a bit longer than 30 minutes just to be sure. I measured the temp of the water straight away (without a cooling flush) and it read at 88 degrees c. This seems a tad low to me, is that correct? I only had it serviced on the 28th of August last year and they adjusted the brew temp then, I wouldn't think I would have to re-adjust this so soon?

    I had the same issue with my BZ99. Upon measuring the brew temp using an insulated foam cup and an instant thermometer, my brew temp was too low. As a result all of my shots were sour and thin. To solve my issue I adjusted the pressurestat to get an initial temp of 92 degrees ramping up to as high as 94-96 degrees celcius. The BZ99 being a HX machine requires some sort of cooling flush depending on the type of beans that you. Higher extraction temps for lighter roasts and not as high for darker roasts is the general rule that I use. Of course, you only should change one variable at a time and keep tasting the coffee.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by nickrauksts View Post
      Should I be considering a 58.3mm tamper? ...........I think maybe some channelling is happening around the outside. Are there any ways of improving this without getting a slightly bigger tamper?[emoji120]
      You could try a modified tamp technique. Fill the filter with coffee grinds until it mounds. Give it a couple taps down onto the bench to collapse the mound. Grind until it mounds again. Gently level the coffee with your finger without compressing it, making sure you have even distribution and no pockets. A quick swipe to level off. Tamp down once with even pressure without twisting.

      Normally this is where you would stop. If you think you're getting edge channeling because of tamper size you can try this. Looking down on the filter visualize a clock face and the 12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock positions. Position your tamper lightly against the inside of the filter basket at the 12 o'clock and try a 3/4 weight tamp straight down. Lift and re-position at the 6 o'clock and repeat tamp followed by 9 o'clock, then 3 o'clock position. Try an extraction and see how it goes. There is a risk of over doing the tamp but may help to diagnose channeling. The shot may not be the best but worth a try.

      With all the info coming your way take it back to basics. Originally you said that your issue started when you changed grinders even while still using the same beans. If the change was that instant it may be easy to get distracted from the real issue. Were you able to re-produce satisfactory results by going back to the old grinder? If not the machine may need to get checked for temp and pressure but before spending the money, go through some beans and make sure its not dosing, tamping and grind settings.

      Some time back when I changed grinders to a Compak K3, it took a frustratingly long time to come up to speed due to my inexperience with it. When I realised how little adjustment was required on the K3 to change the extraction I was on my way again.
      Last edited by CafeLotta; 18 January 2018, 03:44 PM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by GeoffSG View Post
        Upon measuring the brew temp using an insulated foam cup and an instant thermometer, my brew temp was too low.
        Unfortunately, this is not an accurate way to determine Brew Water Temperature. By the time it falls into the cup, it will have cooled considerably. If you possess a DMM that can utilise a Bead Type Thermocouple, it would be much better to load a Filter Basket with coffee as per normal, then site the t/c bead on top of the coffee puck prior to locking it in to the Group. You may have to lock it in a bit more firmly to prevent leakage but this won't hurt anything.

        Pull your shot as per normal and note the temperature being displayed. It may move around a bit but you should be able to record a temperature within a degree or so that will be quite accurate.

        All the best,
        Mal.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Dimal View Post
          Unfortunately, this is not an accurate way to determine Brew Water Temperature. By the time it falls into the cup, it will have cooled considerably. If you possess a DMM that can utilise a Bead Type Thermocouple, it would be much better to load a Filter Basket with coffee as per normal, then site the t/c bead on top of the coffee puck prior to locking it in to the Group. You may have to lock it in a bit more firmly to prevent leakage but this won't hurt anything.

          Pull your shot as per normal and note the temperature being displayed. It may move around a bit but you should be able to record a temperature within a degree or so that will be quite accurate.

          All the best,
          Mal.
          Originally posted by Dimal View Post
          Unfortunately, this is not an accurate way to determine Brew Water Temperature. By the time it falls into the cup, it will have cooled considerably. If you possess a DMM that can utilise a Bead Type Thermocouple, it would be much better to load a Filter Basket with coffee as per normal, then site the t/c bead on top of the coffee puck prior to locking it in to the Group. You may have to lock it in a bit more firmly to prevent leakage but this won't hurt anything.

          Pull your shot as per normal and note the temperature being displayed. It may move around a bit but you should be able to record a temperature within a degree or so that will be quite accurate.

          All the best,
          Mal.
          Unfortunately I don't have a DMM. I have a really accurate thermometer for my smoker but it won't take a Bead Type Thermocouple. I'm guessing my reading from this morning is pretty far off then if it would have cooled a fair bit by time it hits the cup?

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          • #20
            I'd reckon if you're getting 88C in a styrofoam cup, then the brew water temp. won't be a mile off; might even be a bit hot...

            Mal.

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            • #21
              Actually mine was lower than that. The method was from one of the other forums where you cut the bottom of a cup out, put that into a naked portafiller, make a hole at the bottom for the water to flow through and a hole for the probe on the side so that the probe is just under the shower screen. Anyway. If the shot is consistently sour as mine was it was fixed by increasing the temp.

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              • #22
                I just tried the old grinder, with similar results.

                I almost gave up but had a breakthrough!

                I have no idea how this works but I just tried dialing in for the triple basket that I have. 22g in, 44g out, time was approx 30 seconds and it produced awesome crema and tastes amazing.

                While I'm still not happy that I can't figure out what's going on with the double basket (maybe need to play around with 14g doses), I'm stoked with the coffee I just had using the triple. More coffee in my cup is never a bad thing [emoji16]

                Thanks to everyone for your tips, tricks and advice. I think I need to book in for a course where I can take my machine and grinder and spend a day getting everything dialed in perfectly. Brisbane and Sunny Coast are 2.5hrs drive away but I think it may be worth it [emoji4]

                Nick

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                • #23
                  Good job mate. I admire your dedication. Hopefully, your shots only improve going forward.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by bosco View Post
                    Good job mate. I admire your dedication. Hopefully, your shots only improve going forward.
                    Thanks mate. I've somehow gone from below par shots to one of the best coffees I've made with the Bezzera haha
                    Coffee is a wonderful thing!

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