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  • How to remove a circlip

    Hi all, I need to remove a circlip in order to replace a shower screen on an Izzo Valexia Leva. I bought a cheapo circlip pliers but I'm having a devil of a job firstly getting the tiny little pointy bits into the tiny little circlip holes (I have figured it out: just stand on my head) and I'll applying all sorts of pressure to the circlip, which begins to bend but then repeatedly just snaps back into place.

    Anyone got any tips on how to get the thing off?

    Thanks!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Hi Tom, good news you have already done the hard bit - buying the correct pliers! Feel under the grouphead with your fingers for the gap in the circlip which means the two lugs with holes are either side of the gap. Put one plier point in the hole, the squeeze pliers enough to get other point in to the other hole. Now squeeze the pliers which should bring the two holes together - thereby reducing the diameter of the circlip and it will easily come out while on the points of the pliers.

    Just to confirm, when you squeeze the plier handles the two points become closer? The pliers are available working both ways, shrinking circlip in size or expanding. You want shrinking.

    Comment


    • EspressoAdventurer
      EspressoAdventurer commented
      Editing a comment
      Apols 338 your reply wasnt there when I first read Toms post, and is correct.
      Well maybe I dont fully agree with the 'correct pliers'

    • tompoland
      tompoland commented
      Editing a comment
      Tx one and all!

  • #3
    Tom sorry to say you've got wrong type 'circlip' pliers.
    Alternatively known a 'C-Clips'.

    Your G/H has an internal expanding circlip, which needs to be compressed to remove.
    The pliers shown are external expanding circlip pliers.
    * In other words you currently have pliers that at rest, - handles apart, tips together
    = when at work handles come together, tips move apart.

    The circlip shown on the g/h needs to be compressed inwards and lowered clear of the retaining groove.

    Think of a normal set of pliers / multigrips That as the handles expand so do the grip or face of the pliers working area.
    As you then grip the handles and apply inward movement / pressure so to do the working tips of the pliers contract.

    As well you have a set of right angle tipped circlip pliers you may be better off with a straight tipped set of circlip pliers - that allow you to come straight up at the circlip, rather than 'around' the lower edges of the g/h.
    Again ones where the tips contract as you grip the handles and apply pressure.

    GL with it.

    PS suggest you have
    1/ a set of safety glasses on.
    2/ a soft rag in your other hand that covers under the g/h as you remove the circlip.....Ive known these to 'fly' with some force and speed if the tips of the pliers loose their grip on the circlip.
    Last edited by EspressoAdventurer; 29 November 2021, 02:57 PM.

    Comment


    • 338
      338 commented
      Editing a comment
      EA, I read that the right angle pliers keep the contact area consistent compared to straight pliers which makes sense. I have used both and preferred the right angle in this application, it did seem a more secure grip. Agree with everything else said in your post , great advice

    • EspressoAdventurer
      EspressoAdventurer commented
      Editing a comment
      Tom again I dont have this machine Nor have I ever worked on one.
      So my comments are only based on what I see.

      338 the reason I question the right angle is - whether the pliers Tom has, has enough length from tip to right angle bend to clear the bottom of the g/h up to the circlip! .......Tom ? Or has to be angled in there.

      * from my first view - and it looks like a real big muther of an italian high tension steel circlip....
      why so big / so much tension....


      Maybe its best to ask Antony or Charlie ....who ever imports them.*
      Tom have you done a search on CS to see what you can find ?
      Im sure this has come up previously....

      * Wondering if this circlip also supports the heatsink as well as ?other ?parts above ......?

    • 338
      338 commented
      Editing a comment
      EA, you are right, it may be best to ask Antony who imports them. The distance from the bottom of the grouphead to the top surface of the circlip is about 7-8mm. I guessed there was at least 8mm in the bend of Tom's pliers but don't know. The circlip itself is about 2mm thick.

      When I used to use small straight circlip pliers I found there was only a small point of contact on the circlip and it sometimes slipped. When I used the larger straight circlip pliers they slip less (probably from less extreme angle changes) but I find they foul on they drain under the drip tray. The angled circlip pliers contact all 2mm off the circlip through the whole process, never slip or fly off and make it a 15 second job to remove the circlip – not counting the 30 seconds to locate the tips in the holes

  • #4
    The circlip only seems move or flex when I expand the pliers. They don't move when I try to squeeze the pliers. Beginning to like the idea of a central screw like in the Decent grouphead!

    Comment


    • #5
      Tom when you squeeze the plier handles (just by themselves in the open air) do the two points of the pliers come together or move apart?

      Edit: Tom here is a video of how your pliers should work, I am squeezing the handles in this video. At the start of the video the pliers are at rest, handles and points apart.

      https://streamable.com/aif8z4




      PS John from Decent commented on his screw choice, originally wanting to get one custom made but eventually choosing to use a philips head in the centre of their shower screen, as it was custom from his supplier. Philips head were designed to strip or cam out if too much torque was applied, probably worth changing to an allen key screw there, like companies like Lelit have
      Last edited by 338; 29 November 2021, 03:32 PM.

      Comment


      • tompoland
        tompoland commented
        Editing a comment
        Sounds like mine go the wrong way? Who knew there were so many different ways to mess a thing up?

      • tompoland
        tompoland commented
        Editing a comment
        How do these ones look (ordered them so crossing fingers)? I bought the whole set.
        Last edited by Javaphile; 29 November 2021, 05:27 PM. Reason: ebay link removed

      • EspressoAdventurer
        EspressoAdventurer commented
        Editing a comment
        fyi.....
        https://au.rs-online.com/web/general...p-pliers-guide

        Nope not a big fan of the central screw. usually end up more trouble that theyre worth.....
        and a good deep flat slot quality steel head imo is best as the philips and others end up with gunk in them
        the external hexhead bolt protrudes and just plain f...s up the puck!
        mind you this c clip looks awfully painfull to.

        Tom Im sure this issue has come up here before.....

    • #6
      Tom your pliers, as observed by EA, are the wrong way. In a pinch, you may be able to use them by stretching the handles apart, if they have enough play. I am sure your new set will get the job done.

      Great article EA!

      Comment


      • tompoland
        tompoland commented
        Editing a comment
        Tx 338. Appreciated.

    • #7
      338 to answer your earlier question re the search, yes. But I found nothing unfortunately. But then my search powers have been proven to be weak before. I suspect that Antony may be have some tips @casaespresso

      Comment


      • 338
        338 commented
        Editing a comment
        Tom, just use a set of right angle C circlip pliers like mine, takes 15 seconds to remove after you have spent 30 seconds to put the tips in the holes (it will take you a minute or two to put the plier tips in the first time. I will do you a video if required but this is genuinely easy. Do not overcomplicate it or overthink it. I do it every 2 or 3 weeks even though it doesn't need it.

    • #8
      Tx 338 think l will be fine once the right pliers arrive which should be Friday. I've been able to insert the tips fine but having the wrong tool (not the one holding the pliers ) was my mistake. Casa Espresso called via mobile to assist and confirmed your diagnosis and that of EA so thanks to all.

      Update to come.

      Comment


      • 338
        338 commented
        Editing a comment
        Ps Great service by Casa Espresso!

    • #9
      Hi Tom, my apologies, my estimation of time is all wrong. I thought it would be 30 seconds fumbling to find the holes, and 15 seconds to remove. I was wrong, apologies.

      Here is a video of how to remove the circlip on a Valexia Leva:

      https://streamable.com/0fklkk

      In this video I start the phone conveniently placed in my wife's blender, fumble for the holes, then remove circlip and shower screen and show them to the camera. This was my first take and there is a second or two wasted at each end of the video, still the total length of the video was 20 seconds. I reckon with practice we could both be posting vids to get under 10 seconds! Almost Formula1 wheel changes

      Comment


      • tompoland
        tompoland commented
        Editing a comment
        Ha ha ... that is super great thanks. I guess practice will make perfect but under 20 seconds would be great.

      • tompoland
        tompoland commented
        Editing a comment
        Looks like it popped out virtually instantly, once the tips were in. there is hope!

      • 338
        338 commented
        Editing a comment
        Tom you are spot on. You can enlarge the video to see it clearly. Tips go in, squeeze the handles and you can see my other hand get ready to catch the circlip and shower screen because they drop straight out. A very easy machine to get a shower screen out of.

    • #10
      haven't seen the particular circlip being mentioned, but have seen plenty of circlips escape to the far beyond if one of the pliers tips moves.... Just mentioning it because of proximity to eyes...... if anyone has spotted the circlip from the cam bearing out of my mini please be kind to it.

      Comment


      • #11
        Many thanks to EspressoAdventurer and 338 and others who contributed. Got the darned thing off. I don't know what the opposite of the Nobel Prize but whoever invented circlips should be awarded one.

        And my oh my, the gunk underneath. And that's not a machine that's had more than two shots a day over a couple of months.

        Anyhow thanks again to all!

        Comment


        • 338
          338 commented
          Editing a comment
          The IMS shower screen stays cleaner. Anyway it is now a breeze to get it out

        • tompoland
          tompoland commented
          Editing a comment
          Indeed and I intend to remove it every six weeks so I'll get better at it. Wife thought it was very funny, swearing and all.

        • amberale
          amberale commented
          Editing a comment
          The Ig Nobels
          https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...dsbSPrM3fcTfHm

      • #12
        Tom I had the feeling it would be a tough one. Without knowing for sure.
        And why I went into detail. One thing I didnt go into is the leverage ratio!
        i.e. the length of the handle vs the pivot point plus the length of the 'tangs' for want of a better description.

        In the interest of others here in future .....
        post up a pic of what pliers you used .
        And how easy / difficult to remove / reinstall.

        PS RE: mess up there.......You are setting up your coffee cake short of the screen Once locked away ?

        Comment


        • 338
          338 commented
          Editing a comment
          EA to see how easy it is to remove there is a video 3 posts above of it being done in 20 seconds, including fumbling for the circlip holes

      • #13
        EspressoAdventurer thanks for your note.

        I am setting the coffee cake short of the screen now that I've figured out that an 18 gram basket does not take 18 grams and leave enough of a gap i.e. if I load the 18g basket with 18g then the coffee is hitting the screen and preventing me from locking in the portafilter handle. And that's after a fairly robust tamp. I guess that what you are suggesting is that the "gunk" I referred to was in part caused by the coffee puck coming into contact with the screen? Had not thought of that but it makes sense so thanks for the astute observation.

        With the realization that baskets operate in a similar manner to my beloved wife - what is stated is not always what is meant :-) ... I've gone back to putting 18 grams into the 22 gram basket and I'm now also using a filter paper and really easing the level down so the pre infusion is more gentle. I've also fitted the IMS shower screen and I'm using IMS competition baskets as supplied by Antony as CassaEspresso. But the channelling is visible as is also the occasion fine but strong spray at surprisingly bizarre angles.

        I've still getting too much channelling for my liking - way more than I get on the Decent. I use a bottomless portafilter and shot mirror so the evenness (or unevenness) is visible.

        I am very careful about puck prep, using a rake to distribute as evenly as possible and a 54mm EasyTamper with the flange that extends beyond the top of the basket so that the tamp is evenly applied across the top of puck. I'm guessing that I've just got to get better at the puck prep. Or maybe I'm over preparing?

        Pic of pliers below for your viewing pleasure. Thanks again to all.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #14
          Originally posted by tompoland View Post
          [USER="5744"]
          With the realization that baskets operate in a similar manner to my beloved wife - what is stated is not always what is meant :-) ... !!
          And right there /|\ ........Ladies and Gentlemen is My entry for Post of the Year !
          Well said Tomo. Im not sure Id have to guts to say it. But Ill damn well defend your right to say it long and loud.

          Originally posted by tompoland View Post
          [USER="5744"]
          I am setting the coffee cake short of the screen now that I've figured out that an 18 gram basket does not take 18 grams and leave enough of a gap
          i.e. if I load the 18g basket with 18g then the coffee is hitting the screen and preventing me from locking in the portafilter handle.

          I've gone back to putting 18 grams into the 22 gram basket and I'm now also using a filter paper and really easing the level down so the pre infusion is more gentle. I've also fitted the IMS shower screen and I'm using IMS competition baskets as supplied by Antony as CassaEspresso. But the channelling is visible as is also the occasion fine but strong spray at surprisingly bizarre angles.
          I've still getting too much channelling for my liking - way more than I get on the Decent. I use a bottomless portafilter and shot mirror so the evenness (or unevenness) is visible.
          I am very careful about puck prep, using a rake to distribute as evenly as possible and a 54mm EasyTamper with the flange that extends beyond the top of the basket so that the tamp is evenly applied across the top of puck. I'm guessing that I've just got to get better at the puck prep. Or maybe I'm over preparing?
          Suggest 'sacrifice' one dose of grounds - 24g.
          5 cents = 1.35mm
          10 cents = 1.75mm approx for both

          dose and note your tamp weight. not heavy for assesing dose weight. medium.
          tip out and weigh your dose.
          repeat for other basket.
          IF your beans are really fresh And you have he appropriate dose weight, which converts to puck height ! ...thats where the secret of dialing in is.

          You refer to gushes / chaneling. My suggestion your issue isnt puck prep but inappropriate dose weight (height)
          And no not too high to rub into the shower screen.

          Channeling occurs when you have insufficient resistant to the flow rate / pressure the machine / lever is delivering.
          Resistance s a factor of -
          - freshness of bean.
          - amount of dose (height of puck - volume, is as important as grind setting)
          - grind
          - finally tamp - 1%

          Bingo. good flow rate = nice shot, consistency, flavour control appears because you can now easily adjust your shot.
          Becasue you now have control of the shot. And can make one change And know what the result will be before you pull the shot.


          Originally posted by tompoland View Post
          [USER="5744"]
          And that's after amm fairly robust tamp. I guess that what you are suggesting is that the "gunk" I referred to was in part caused by the coffee puck coming into contact with the screen? Had not thought of that but it makes sense so thanks for the astute observation.
          Yes. Part of my machine maintenance regime. Don't cause a mess that has to be cleaned up !

          Good luck with it Tom
          Last edited by EspressoAdventurer; 2 December 2021, 10:46 PM.

          Comment


          • tompoland
            tompoland commented
            Editing a comment
            A lot of food for thought thanks. Sounds like the gap height it very important. Right dose weight/height = right pressure = less channelling.

            I've seen the five cent idea reference before - can you elaborate please?

            I did try 20 grams (last week) in the 22 gram basket and I seemed to have more success with that, presumably it was the right height to create enough pressure.

        • #15
          To check the head space between your shower screen and the top of your dry puck, place a 5 cent piece on top of the prepared puck and put your porta-filter into the grouphead as per usual.
          Then remove it.
          For the “proper” head-space the 5 cent piece should leave the slightest impression on top of the grounds.
          No impression is “too much space”/underdosed.
          Deep impression is “not enough space”/overdosed.

          Comment


          • tompoland
            tompoland commented
            Editing a comment
            Ah ha ... thanks will give that a shot (pardon the pun)
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