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Should be OK... A Triac is basically a bi-directional switch so shorting it out is the same as having it switched ON all the time. So long as you have provided for a means to safely switch the unit ON and OFF, all should be fine
From what I can understand the triac is the gate that controls the flow of electricity to the motor. Shorting it just sort of bypassed it and always had the paddle spinning with the capacitor still in circuit... nothing else really changed.
Taking out the element really left nothing else for the board to do either.
Originally posted by 726960767578010 link=1245399410/7#7 date=1246225180
Hey Humphrey, used the info in your thread http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1212914325 about rewiring a sd-200 although not the same circuit board as the 206 gave me enough info to "have a go" Thanks!!!
I ended up just shorting the triac that drives the paddle and putting a switch on the active comming in and she works perfectly.
I also pulled out the heater cause it was at the level I wanted for the temp probe.
I reckon I have taken about 5mm off the paddle at a guess.
Good effort!
Im not that familiar with triacs, but do you still have the starting capacitor in the circuit? Most people seem to say that they need that in the circuit to A. Make sure there is enough current to get the moto sipnning, and B. To make sure the motor starts in the right direction. I remember reading somebodys thread where they had to push start the paddle because they took out the starting capacitor. Or is this the purpose of the triac?
5mm sounds about right. I reckon we have probably taken off slightly more, but its hard to tell because Ive got no-idea how long it used to be now :-) I actually made a custom paddle out of a block of wood on the weekend so that I could roast Cocao beans. It doesnt mix as good though -- to short :-)
Hey Humphrey, used the info in your thread http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1212914325 about rewiring a sd-200 although not the same circuit board as the 206 gave me enough info to "have a go" Thanks!!!
I ended up just shorting the triac that drives the paddle and putting a switch on the active comming in and she works perfectly.
I also pulled out the heater cause it was at the level I wanted for the temp probe.
I reckon I have taken about 5mm off the paddle at a guess.
Honestly after you do quite a few roasts you wouldnt really want to make bread in it anyway. I also have the SD-206 BM and it makes awesome bread and also has the great feature of pizza dough. For that reason I used the older model (which we had retired from bread making) for my coffee beans and put in a switch. I recently found a brand new one at a garage sale for $20 which will be handy when this one finally dies! A great BM for the "Corretto" innovation.
Thanks for that.
I shortened the paddle a bit last night and watched it move the beans for about 10 mins. It still got caught a few times and broke some beans in half so I guess ill have to shorten it a bit more. The paddle seems to move quite quickly as well but if your doing it I guess its OK
Thanks again
P.S. Looks like the wife wont be able to bake bread in it any more. :
I have a SD-200 (same size bucket) and I have shortened the paddle. I dont have any problems with the beans being agitated - very even roasts. I have thought about hammering out the ridge (I have a spare BM in case my current one dies) but I just havent bothered as I havent had a problem. I know another couple fellow Coffeesnobers that use the same model and they also have shortened the paddle with no ill effects.
Have got an old Panasonic SD-206 Breadmaker and I am testing it out for roasting coffee.
A problem I can see is that the beans tend to get jammed against 2 ridges in the bowl and stop the paddle. These ridges seem to be there to squash the dough when breadmaking.
I could always cut down the paddle but as the bowl is rectangular in shape and shortening it would only make it less effective at the larger gap
Does anybody else use this type of BM and have you had to modify it.
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