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How to monitor tempreture in a Behmor - Probe Placement
It might be a bit lazier without bending the prbe. But the tricky part remains thr drilling of the axis..
Some lines below there, the guy is referencing to a CS thread as someone is asking for pictures.
I feel I should have made some photos of a drilling template at the end,
But I hope I described it good enough how to prepare one.
Peter42, thanks for your reply. I did find a lazier way to get a probe in there, you can get these 30cm bendy probes off an online market place, this guy did it: Behmor 1600+ Mod : roasting. Just out of interest, I would never do this, but this dude also PIDed his Behmor bypassing the mechanical relay.
I am really sorry for you, about the legal issues and the gas train.
Here in Germany it is a bit different. The original connection to the gas you cannot use either , but you can change and I don't know about legal issues, as long as it is non-commercial.
Surprisingly the shippment from Taiwan is affordable compared to Australia (I know it's not your fault Andy), so that in total the price / value here is very different if you compare Behmor to Huky.
Nevertheless thanks and compliments for the job an support you give on the Behmor.
CS is still the only reasonable source for Behmor and parts for German users.
The Huky has been around for a few years now Mal, the problem is that it has no Australian approval for the circuitry an no AGA approval for the gas train making it illegal and potentially dangerous to use here.
I like the idea of it (with local certifications) but at circa $2k+ landed here (plus the certification costs) it's getting into the very top-end of options.
I too would like to know if this has been successful, we got a lot of wonderful information from Peter42 above then complete silence! I'm curious as to if it works for 200g loads, the beans whip around all over the place in the drum, and that is what I typically roast. Also don't know if I want to be bothered with the tube, wonder if there is another (lazier) way to get the probe in there?
Hi, I am not so often online at CS these days, so I didn't follow the thread.
First, 200g is not really good, as the level of beans is too low. I did typically 330g, which fits good.
Second, the only lazier way for a probe in the bean mass is another roaster.
In fact I upgraded to a Huky and meanwhile sold the Behmor as 2 roasters are too many for me.
I still think the Behmor is a wonderful roaster and loved the beans I roasted with.
But with Huky you can play around more. Maybe things were different if the Behmor plus version was available earlier at that time.
Enjoy your coffee. Peter
Thanks, yeah I'm comfortable drilling a hole in the side of the drum big enough to shove a probe wire through, but probably not comfortable enough with my skills to drill a circle wide enough to fit the metal tubing as Peter42 above. Don't have much equipment. Also don't really want to drill into the side of my beloved Behmor chassis! I couldn't stand to look at it.
djbetterly I find under the chaff collector the thermocouple readings are like 50 degrees less than BT. Lately I've just reverted to the wall thermistor, making sure it increments in a controlled manner after 1C, by altering the power settings in manual mode. This has been the biggest impact for me and has helped me to better steer the semi-trailer that is the Behmor, producing more roasts where the first few snaps of SC are heard in cooling and no more, how I like it. How do you find your chaff tray thermocouple readings change between FC and SC?
I have the bluetherm duo and I use a wire prob placed in the chaff collector, the info does help but it's not as good as a bean temp probe would be. However I did find out that the temps given by the 1600 plus control panel are far different than what I get from the blue therm duo.
I do believe a bean temp probe can be done however it wouldn't come with out ease and heavy modification. Not sure I'm willing to go to that extent.
I too would like to know if this has been successful, we got a lot of wonderful information from Peter42 above then complete silence! I'm curious as to if it works for 200g loads, the beans whip around all over the place in the drum, and that is what I typically roast. Also don't know if I want to be bothered with the tube, wonder if there is another (lazier) way to get the probe in there?
I just picked up a bluetherm duo for my behmor and am considering doing a mod similar to yours. Are you still pretty happy with the results of yours? I'm trying to figure out which k-type probe to buy. Any suggestions?
Accurate drilling shouldn't be the trouble any more and it can be done the quite safe way:
For drilling without trouble you need a drilling template, and for preparing this you should have at least a cheap version of upright drill rig, but dont't need any big machine. The drilling shall be vertical.
A aluminium plate of 20-25mm would be perfect, but a hard wood or multilayer board of 25-30mm would do it as well. Size about 100mm (4 inch) would be nice, but is not really important.
- Drill a very small hole through: about 2.5mm 0,1" - somewhere in the middle area.
- use a conterbore (if you have) to enlarge the diameter to ~ 10mm (0.4") = a bit bigger than the diameter of the Behmor axis.
- Then you drill the half way through the plate the hole with the diameter of the axis. Use a standard steel drill with the v-shape tip.
Just after starting check if the large hole starts concentric with the small hole. If not just move one inch to the side and start a next try. If you are not satisfied you have as many chances as you want.
If it is wooden board, use a drill slightly smaller than the diameter of the axis. The hole is normally a bit larger than the drill.
The idea is that you can put the board onto the dismantled lid of the drum and the axis just fits and disappears in the board, so that when drilling from the other side with the small diameter, you just find the centre.
Anyway, - check directly after the very first slight touch of the drill onto the axis and stop if it's not ok.
Is a long description, but could be job for a Sunday afternoon.
A picture would show it nicer, but currently I don’t have an appropriate piece of wood at hand.
Jatallo, Wish you good luck as well. And I am keen to get some additional feedback.
Meanwhile my lessons learned from two roasts:
- use larger batches about 400g+. It is easier
( I'll stick for a while to 330g so that I can compare my curves, as I want to check the influence of some side effects)
- before plugging in the square axis, rotate the drum a bit in the normal direction to have the same bean distribution as later (back side at heating: beans are higher).
Then it is much easier to adjust the height of the probe - and perhaps bend it a bit more or less - before starting the motor.
- when bending the probe after start, there is some friction against the hollow axis. This can cause the Behmor to stop. It is probably the safety feature against damage after blocking. It happend to me, but was no real trouble as it happend within the first two minutes. The restart was no problem and I had an unplanned preheated roast.
- the hole in the outside wall shall be enlarged for easier insertion of the bend. It could be done as an oval hole downwards (following the curve).
I made a little funnel to easify the the insertion and allow the curve downwards and reduce the heat drifting into the wall - but I don't like the form and size and didn't install it yet.
You may get some photos from the next version after installation.
The most surprizing thing for me was that with the few roasts I did with the bean mass temperature, I now understand the roast much better, as I had before all the time trouble to distinguish FC (crack) and SC (pitch-sound) and the simultaneous mixture sometimes on my Monsooned Malabar, Decaf and others.
Now as I heard it and smelled it in parallel to the known temperature I could get it in accordance to the phrases I read so often about before.
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