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Breville BES820 heating issues

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  • Breville BES820 heating issues

    Hi All,

    First time post here so please go easy on me

    I have an old BES820 machine and the issue is that it heats up fine when first powered on, makes all the right noises. however it will not hold heat. first extraction is ok, but then water will rapidly cool after that.
    Can still pull single or double shot but they're luke warm then cold after a while.

    I have checked the thermistor and it seems ok, like said it comes up to temp, then can hear relay click and that is it. Wont come up to heat again after that, could it be a faulty/sticky omron relay? Also the Thermoblock still has 230V to it at this point, so could it be the Heating element?

    I also cannot find a schematic for this machine online, anyone have access to this?

    Any help with this would be amazing, would hate to have to throw it in the bin.

    Thanks in Advance!

  • #2
    Any takers? even a hunch at what it could be would be appreciated!

    Comment


    • #3
      If it's got voltage and not heating it's the element

      Comment


      • #4
        How did you check that there was voltage? You could have an active on the supply side and no return circuit. You are on the right track looking for a schematic, the voltage reading is likely a furphy.

        Comment


        • #5
          That's a good point. I sometimes forget there's a wrong way to check voltage, and that appliance manufacturers love switching the neutral.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by alexm1 View Post
            How did you check that there was voltage? You could have an active on the supply side and no return circuit. You are on the right track looking for a schematic, the voltage reading is likely a furphy.
            Ahh right so its switching on neutral, ok I'll check that then. I thought it was weird that all the components had 230V to them constantly. So if its not switching neutral to heater once temp comes down, could be relay sticking? or you think a whole new PCB would be the safer way to go.

            Appreciate the help guys! Thank You!!

            Comment


            • #7
              How are you measuring the voltage, what 2 things are your probes on? If you're measuring 240V to earth on both sides of the element then the neutral is open. If the relay isn't closing it could be because the relay is fully or more likely that it is not getting coil voltage. This could be because the temperature sensor is faulty or the component switching the relay is faulty.

              Comment


              • #8
                [QUOTE=level3ninja;669345]How are you measuring the voltage, what 2 things are your probes on? If you're measuring 240V to earth on both sides of the element then the neutral is open. If the relay isn't closing it could be because the relay is fully or more likely that it is not getting coil voltage. This could be because the temperature sensor is faulty or the component switching the relay is faulty.[/QUO

                So yes I am measuring 230V on both sides of the element, measuring from element to earth. The Supply line daisy chains it way through all components, sorry for the noob question but how the hell do I check when N switches. cant check continuity, Got me stumped.

                The odd thing is it ~ Like I said it heats on first power up. Thermistor voltage sits at around 3V when cold then drops to about 1V when hot and you can physically hear the relay click, from that point on she wont heat again. would need to turn it off and leave for 30 mins or so. The thermal fuse is fine also, 230v going through that, no issues.


                Still cant find a schematic for this thing...

                Thanks again for your time!!
                Last edited by Demster33; 1st February 2020, 08:29 AM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If it's got a complete circuit the voltage will be being "used up" across the element, and hence show 240V across the element. Have your licensed electrician test for voltage across the element. If it reads 0V there's no circuit, even though it might still read 240V to earth.

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