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FAEMA 2 GROUP - value at about $350

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  • ozscott
    replied
    Mate postage on that should be cheap from Coffeeparts. The membrane gets slack over time. Running full time (but at home not commercially) I replace mine every 3-4 years I suppose. Cheers

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  • benosborne
    replied
    thanks mate, will give that a go. haven't found a supplier in nz yet, bit harder to get things over this way than when i was in melb, cheers.

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  • ozscott
    replied
    Just replace membrane mate. Cheap compared to anything else. Cheers

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  • benosborne
    replied
    Originally posted by ozscott View Post
    Pressurestat has got lazy and is now almost non-existent in operation - it only turns off the contacts after the pressure relief valve has been activated. So she is shut off until Pedro at Coffeeparts can confirm the correct part. Cheers
    Hey mate, I have a similar machine, and the boiler on / boiler off pressure band (don't know the proper name for this) is way too wide: boiler on at about 0.5 bar, off at about 1.5 bar.
    First thought was pressurestat, so took it apart and gave the membrane a clean - looked okay to untrained eye, but there is no improvement on putting it back together... contacts are fairly pitted / stuffed looking too, but i'm not sure what problem this would actually cause, given they do still work when it switches.
    not sure whether there is anything else that could be causing this? or whether i should replace the membrane? or the whole pressurestat? - any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    cheers

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  • Dimal
    replied
    Originally posted by goonba View Post
    Sorry i mean pump motor
    I'd recommend asking a licensed sparky to measure the current draw of the motor while pulling a few shots.
    The pump may be starting to seize up or the Start/Run Capacitor could be faulty...

    Mal.

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  • goonba
    replied
    Sorry i mean pump motor

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  • ozscott
    replied
    Hi mate. I dont know what fan you mean. Mine doesn't have a fan and pump should get hot at all if it has water flowing in it. Cheers

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  • goonba
    replied
    I have a faema smart due the pump gets hot and fan dose not turn what can be the problem is the fan temperature control ed

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  • ozscott
    replied
    Pressurestat has got lazy and is now almost non-existent in operation - it only turns off the contacts after the pressure relief valve has been activated. So she is shut off until Pedro at Coffeeparts can confirm the correct part. Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • ozscott
    replied
    Ok I cannot believe that I have had this girl for over 9 years now. She is well and truly Due (no pun intended) for a clean and descale. I have done my own servicing on the machine including pressurstat, cleaning the feeder pipes to the head, pump and pump adjustment etc. Any tips for a full strip down and clean? Unfortunately the plastic sides are a bit cracked due to the extra stress of the boiler lagging so when removed I will glue them and make sure the lagging no longer interferes with the covers (unless someone could craft up some stainless ones...). I will take it all part and clean the boiler and all pipework - taking photos and notes as I go...

    Looking forward to it - big Christmas jobby.

    Cheers

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  • MorganGT
    replied
    Originally posted by ozscott View Post
    I don't know what the plastic 3. 5 inch plastic tubes are for that come out of the HX with the fittings but I assume it's to source water high up in the exchanger.
    Machines that have 'extension' tubes (either plastic or copper) leading into the heat exchangers have them as a way of fine tuning the temperature of the brew water - if it is fed into the heat exchanger higher up, it travels a shorter distance while being heated before reaching the head, thus comes out cooler. Some CMA machines have the tube feeding down from the head into the heat exchanger, thus taking the water out of the HX earlier, achieving the same result. Most likely the manufacturers establish the exact lengths to use by testing after the first few machines of a new model are built, which would save redesigning more major components (like the heat exchanger itself). A bit of fiddling around with tube lengths should allow a specific brew temperature to be achieved with a specific boiler pressure.

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  • ozscott
    replied
    Originally posted by MorganGT View Post
    The flowmeters can impede flow, as on many machines they have jets and filters on the inlets which can block - can't remember if a Due has them. When you removed the 'plug nuts' off the groups did you remove the gauze filters and jets? This is the most common spot for a blockage to occur. In all the machines I have worked on over the years I have only ever had one that blocked up inside the heat exchanger - it was a San Marino that blocked in the elbow fitting at the bottom of the heat exchanger. Not sure if a Due has similar fittings as I haven't worked on one in the last couple of years.
    The way I'd approach diagnosing the fault is to either work forwards along the water path, loosening and retightening joints until you get to a spot where there is no water pressure/leakage, then dismantle the fittings at that point to find the blockage. Or do it the other way round (I usually do it this way as it's less messy) by working backwards from the head until you find water pressure.

    You can descale the machine without dismantling it, by running descale solution through the heads, but obviously this won't work if there is zero flow through the heads. Sometimes the best solution is to find and clean out the blockage, then reassemble and descale.
    As with your experience Morgan those u bends and fittings were blocked. Flow meters were clean. I don't know what the plastic 3. 5 inch plastic tubes are for that come out of the HX with the fittings but I assume it's to source water high up in the exchanger. The scale was that hard it needed to be carefully drilled out. Machine is running beautifully on both groups now. Flow is great. I will leave the boiler as is until a full strip down in a few years time and just keep the new filters up to it.

    Cheers

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • ozscott
    replied
    Originally posted by MorganGT View Post
    The flowmeters can impede flow, as on many machines they have jets and filters on the inlets which can block - can't remember if a Due has them. When you removed the 'plug nuts' off the groups did you remove the gauze filters and jets? This is the most common spot for a blockage to occur. In all the machines I have worked on over the years I have only ever had one that blocked up inside the heat exchanger - it was a San Marino that blocked in the elbow fitting at the bottom of the heat exchanger. Not sure if a Due has similar fittings as I haven't worked on one in the last couple of years.
    The way I'd approach diagnosing the fault is to either work forwards along the water path, loosening and retightening joints until you get to a spot where there is no water pressure/leakage, then dismantle the fittings at that point to find the blockage. Or do it the other way round (I usually do it this way as it's less messy) by working backwards from the head until you find water pressure.

    You can descale the machine without dismantling it, by running descale solution through the heads, but obviously this won't work if there is zero flow through the heads. Sometimes the best solution is to find and clean out the blockage, then reassemble and descale.
    Thanks Morgan - there were no blockages when I removed the cover plugs from the groups and the gauze was good...I checked both sides of the flow meter, but didnt try the elbow fitting on the boiler. I will have look...I assumed that because this fitting was larger diameter than the flow metres internals that if it was going to block it wouldnt do it at the elbows, but I shouldnt assume anything.

    Thanks for your help.

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • MorganGT
    replied
    Originally posted by ozscott View Post
    I got as far as the flow meters and cracking the inlet side they are under pressure even without the pump running, from the normal water pressure. The outlet side of the flow meters likewise is pressurised to the same extent when the meters are not turning. Now my understanding is that the meters are just impellers that send volume information to the printed circuit brain to shut down the group when the volumetric buttons are activated. So they will no impede flow - 2 things here; 1. very unlikely that both would go out to lunch at the same time and 2. there is significant pressure on the outlet side of the meter, so there can be no impediment to water flow through them. I then took the top plug nuts off the groups and detached the pipes from the heat exhanger at the groups...no water flow at all when the pump is is off and none when it is activated...

    So...my blockage must be inside the boiler in the pipes that wind through the heat exchanger body? I guess i am up for a Christmas strip down and overhaul jobbie...is it normal for the heat exchanger pipes to block over time even with filters in place? How is the HX pipe (presumably a coil of pipe) descaled...soaking in citric acid/nitric acid?

    Cheers
    The flowmeters can impede flow, as on many machines they have jets and filters on the inlets which can block - can't remember if a Due has them. When you removed the 'plug nuts' off the groups did you remove the gauze filters and jets? This is the most common spot for a blockage to occur. In all the machines I have worked on over the years I have only ever had one that blocked up inside the heat exchanger - it was a San Marino that blocked in the elbow fitting at the bottom of the heat exchanger. Not sure if a Due has similar fittings as I haven't worked on one in the last couple of years.
    The way I'd approach diagnosing the fault is to either work forwards along the water path, loosening and retightening joints until you get to a spot where there is no water pressure/leakage, then dismantle the fittings at that point to find the blockage. Or do it the other way round (I usually do it this way as it's less messy) by working backwards from the head until you find water pressure.

    You can descale the machine without dismantling it, by running descale solution through the heads, but obviously this won't work if there is zero flow through the heads. Sometimes the best solution is to find and clean out the blockage, then reassemble and descale.

    Leave a comment:


  • ozscott
    replied
    Bump.... There are plenty of people on this site with experience with this I reckon...

    Many thanks

    Leave a comment:

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