Re: M27 water fill wont shut off.......
OK...
Ya board is 100% OK.... My meter had a faulty lead.. :-X :-[
My temp meter also had a faulty J type temp probe, as well as a fault on my manometer.. Bugger of a week for test equipment.
WARNING.
1: Please clean the system up- as from the pics above... DIRTY...
2: The area is fully of 240V so you should be having a Qualified Elec look and work on it... 240V can and does kill... More often than many realise.. 3 here in Qld in the last month..
3: The system has some smarts 8-) and uses AC from the transformer out via the sense probe and back via teh bridge to drive / bias the stand alone transistor, which in turn drives the darlingtion pair, which in turn drive the relay.
4: SL goes to ya probe..
5: SM (SR) should go to the Boiler ...
What the system is looking for is a signal to pass between SL and SM that indicates that there is a Conductive medium available... Now in general tap water should give you about 240k at about 2cm... This is all approx as many factors come into play.
With the sense probe coming in from teh top ? and the water inside conductive boiler etc the separation that defines a presence of a conductive medium is a matter of testing...
A: DO NOT USE high purity water.... It would mean that you would almost need teh probe touching and or a modification to triple the voltage to the probe to respond to what impurities might be available.. This would mean a non valadiated modification and could introduce any number of problems.
6: Get a Qualified Elec to assist you and or watch him do it.. This is dangerous and not recommended for a non qualified person as it means the person would/could be working LIVE!!!!
A: Turn every thing off and disconnect.
B: Check to ensure that there is continuity from the connector to the bottom of the probe.
C: The probe must be isolated from teh tank... Should have an insulating washer / seal.
D: LM (SR) [6] which goes to the Tank should be an EARTH wire ( Green and Yellow). All blue and Black from what I can see... This could be confusing and cause problems... The wires should be clearly identified.
E: Check the depth of ya sensor probe if ya can... Ohm meter and check that it goes short between [4] (your pic) and ground [6] when the probe touches the wall of teh boiler..
At this stage if all check out... You could put the unit back into the connectors.. Get it teh wrong way round and = BANK . WTF system is destroyed...
F: The pot is there to adjust the sensitivity - but has at least a 1 to 2 sec delay...
G: In principle / the ideal is that on turn on, the tank should fill to the level you want or should I say... pump kick in when it is senses no conductive medium... It should then run until it gets a signal and for a further time as defined by the delay identified above - approx - and then teh pump should stop.
H: Thus you either move teh probe up and OR down OR adjust the pot... To obtain teh right fill level and manage the band of available water....
NOTE: When you get your elec friend to wire it all up... get him/her to put a small hole in to allow you to adjust teh pot. Small adjustments... Very small adjustments and a couple of seconds wait to allow the cct to respond.
If the probe and wiring does not have continuity OR the tank is not earthed / connected correctly etc OR if your using water that has had all the minerals taken out... Then the cct will not work and teh pump will remain on... This will result in a FLOOD... 40 days and we all have to do somthing different for a while
WARNING.
All care NO responsibility... This must be done and checked at many stages by a qualified person prior to connecting to your supply grid and switching on for testing and or when going live at the end of you refurb...
AM and GG
PS... Typed and not proof read... So if in doubt... ASK.
WARNING.
OK...
Ya board is 100% OK.... My meter had a faulty lead.. :-X :-[
My temp meter also had a faulty J type temp probe, as well as a fault on my manometer.. Bugger of a week for test equipment.WARNING.
This must be done and checked at many stages by a qualified person prior to connecting to your supply grid and switching on for testing and or when going live at the end of you refurb...
1: Please clean the system up- as from the pics above... DIRTY...
2: The area is fully of 240V so you should be having a Qualified Elec look and work on it... 240V can and does kill... More often than many realise.. 3 here in Qld in the last month..
3: The system has some smarts 8-) and uses AC from the transformer out via the sense probe and back via teh bridge to drive / bias the stand alone transistor, which in turn drives the darlingtion pair, which in turn drive the relay.
4: SL goes to ya probe..
5: SM (SR) should go to the Boiler ...
What the system is looking for is a signal to pass between SL and SM that indicates that there is a Conductive medium available... Now in general tap water should give you about 240k at about 2cm... This is all approx as many factors come into play.
With the sense probe coming in from teh top ? and the water inside conductive boiler etc the separation that defines a presence of a conductive medium is a matter of testing...
A: DO NOT USE high purity water.... It would mean that you would almost need teh probe touching and or a modification to triple the voltage to the probe to respond to what impurities might be available.. This would mean a non valadiated modification and could introduce any number of problems.
6: Get a Qualified Elec to assist you and or watch him do it.. This is dangerous and not recommended for a non qualified person as it means the person would/could be working LIVE!!!!
A: Turn every thing off and disconnect.
B: Check to ensure that there is continuity from the connector to the bottom of the probe.
C: The probe must be isolated from teh tank... Should have an insulating washer / seal.
D: LM (SR) [6] which goes to the Tank should be an EARTH wire ( Green and Yellow). All blue and Black from what I can see... This could be confusing and cause problems... The wires should be clearly identified.
E: Check the depth of ya sensor probe if ya can... Ohm meter and check that it goes short between [4] (your pic) and ground [6] when the probe touches the wall of teh boiler..
At this stage if all check out... You could put the unit back into the connectors.. Get it teh wrong way round and = BANK . WTF system is destroyed...
F: The pot is there to adjust the sensitivity - but has at least a 1 to 2 sec delay...
G: In principle / the ideal is that on turn on, the tank should fill to the level you want or should I say... pump kick in when it is senses no conductive medium... It should then run until it gets a signal and for a further time as defined by the delay identified above - approx - and then teh pump should stop.
H: Thus you either move teh probe up and OR down OR adjust the pot... To obtain teh right fill level and manage the band of available water....
NOTE: When you get your elec friend to wire it all up... get him/her to put a small hole in to allow you to adjust teh pot. Small adjustments... Very small adjustments and a couple of seconds wait to allow the cct to respond.
If the probe and wiring does not have continuity OR the tank is not earthed / connected correctly etc OR if your using water that has had all the minerals taken out... Then the cct will not work and teh pump will remain on... This will result in a FLOOD... 40 days and we all have to do somthing different for a while

WARNING.
All care NO responsibility... This must be done and checked at many stages by a qualified person prior to connecting to your supply grid and switching on for testing and or when going live at the end of you refurb...
AM and GG
PS... Typed and not proof read... So if in doubt... ASK.
WARNING.
This must be done and checked at many stages by a qualified person prior to connecting to your supply grid and switching on for testing and or when going live at the end of you refurb...


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