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looks good send me a better photo of the spring valve and ill give you the discription. done a few of these so know them pretty well.
hope all is going well, will give you a call tomorrow to touch base
Well I went next door and got the Lemons (15KG) and got the big Kenwood chef juicer out and had only got half way thru and had 4 litres.
The parts arrived yesterday less the lever springs as there seems to have been a rush on this item international and coffeeparts ran out that same day. So I am on back order.
Doesn’t really matter as I have so many other things to do.
I will now move on to de-scaling the boiler.
Has anyone taken out the relief valve and filled with citric acid from there. I thought this will save removing the electro plating off the boiler and would allow internal to be treated.
I was going to take advantage off this method as I can still heat the whole lot as it is still able to be powered up this way.
Added bonus is that the heater element will be de-scaled with out any chance of damage to the element insulators.
Originally posted by 2E343032333038313F5D0 link=1276429634/11#11 date=1277017387
Hi pwelsh
Your machine will restore fine Im sure!
We use our Z9 LE every day - its a very reliable machine including he mercury Pstat.
Photo 21 looks like the valve from the boiler to the group (Part no 700366 on Coffeeparts).
Clean it in Citric, replace the spring and check that the washer and valve stem thing is OK to re-use and youll be fine.
I posted some tips and photos on HB Lever forum on how to disassemble the group. - let me know if you cant find them and Ill post here.
Have fun !
Cheers
Simon
Hi Mokka,
I have this part on order but after cleaning in lemon juice all the scale is gone and all parts are like new the springs which you really can t see that well in the picture but they are there under all that scale, the bevel probe is all made of a type of rubber, I did see any washers though.
Hi,
I couldn’t source Citric acid at the local IGA and I hade to go away from Sat morning to I thought I would try real lemons. So I raid the next doors lemon tree
Surprisingly it worked really well on photo 21.
Will post a photo when I get a chance.
Luck I got caught up with something else.
No citric acid on chrome!!!!!
I will manual do the group head and thanks Kofefkit for the steel wool trick.
I think I will go get two dozen lemons form next door and the juicer and do the boiler
I used Caffeto Vanish (a similar product to citric acid) on a chrome steam wand for my San Marino rebuild and the chrome was damaged in places as a result. (Chrome was already worn from use)
If your not stripping down the machine I would advise against using citic acid for a boiler descale, use a proper descaler like bombora triple action, vanish, etc. It will brake down any scale where as citric acid will pull it off in sheets causing problem further down the track.
So what was the verdict re citric acid and chrome is it safe to soak the whole group in a citric solution to descale or try and plug the outlets and and fill the passages with the solution
We use our Z9 LE every day - its a very reliable machine including he mercury Pstat.
Photo 21 looks like the valve from the boiler to the group (Part no 700366 on Coffeeparts).
Clean it in Citric, replace the spring and check that the washer and valve stem thing is OK to re-use and youll be fine.
I posted some tips and photos on HB Lever forum on how to disassemble the group. - let me know if you cant find them and Ill post here.
For my 2 cents here repeat after me "Chrome is Porous" (doesnt apply to good hard chrome which is a different process) that is whatever you are cleaning on the outside that solution will actually get into the base metal, thats why chrome plated steel appears to rust when in fact it is the base metal rusting and causing the iron oxide to come out of the chrome pores. So what that means is will the cleaning solution attacking the base metal becomes a consideration, chrome itself is fairly resistant to chemical attack.
This also means that if you have steel panels that are chrome plated then remember what happens to raw steel when it get wet so dry them well and quickly and even bake them in a warm oven. Even if you buff the rust off chrome plated steel it will generally show rust again unless you treat the underlying problem or have it stripped back treated and rechromed.
Boilers if that is what we are talking about are not chrome plated but will be a nickel or maybe tin based plating process.
CLR well I wouldnt consider what it will taste like :P Vinegar also cleans scale but in my coffees no thanks
Originally posted by 5B676E7663020 link=1276429634/5#5 date=1276939639
Hmmm, cant say I agree with that, given that a lot of back flushing products contain a high percentage of Citric acid, they work fine cleaning chrome plated portafilters as well and citric is recommended as a chrome cleaner here http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4730992_chrome-rust.htmlSmiley
Ok, i stand corrected, was going on info from HB and orphan espresso who do alot of re-furbs ,quoted from doug at OE;
NO CITRIC ACID ON CHROME!!!! IM yelling here!!! Caps intended!! Big regret to soak chrome in citric. Joe Glo all the way for the dark coffee or milk build. I have soaked chrome parts, whole groups generally and steam wands in Joe Glo for days with no negative results on the finish and when hot it works fast but even when cold it will remove anything and everything organic. The black gunk may be boiled out rubber bits and most of the rubber and old lube etc will clean off with lacquer thinner or the equivalent. If you need to clean scale or coffee or whatever from chrome use super fine steel wool and elbow grease, dry, no solvents, and you will not harm the finish. But no citric on chrome and no oven cleaner or caustics or industrial degreaser or Lysol toilet bowl cleaner. I have experimented with everything from concentrated lye to concentrated sulfuric acid on various cleaning jobs and there is no substitute for fine steel wool, elbow grease, mild solvents, and patience. Emphasis on patience!
Originally posted by 6A565F4752330 link=1276429634/5#5 date=1276939639
Originally posted by 494D4447494B5656220 link=1276429634/4#4 date=1276937884
Originally posted by 6F687A736C771F0 link=1276429634/3#3 date=1276935010
Has any one soaked the group head piston bore, the cromed one in sitric acid, as I am a bit worried about doing it?
Dont soak anything chrome plated in citric acid, it can damage the coating.Prob better to use coffee detergent , like youd use to backflush or soak portafilters
Hmmm, cant say I agree with that, given that a lot of back flushing products contain a high percentage of Citric acid, they work fine cleaning chrome plated portafilters as well and citric is recommended as a chrome cleaner here http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4730992_chrome-rust.html
Thanks for that link. looks like i will soak the cooper passages of the group head and plug the two inlets to the bore with wax just aviod contactwith the chrome bore, but i feel a lot more confident now that i can clean out the inlet passages. i was real concerned with a radical oxidization of the crome coating.
Has anyone used CLR Clear as a calcification removal agent, and if so what solution dilution did you use?
Thanks to all for the help
Originally posted by 494D4447494B5656220 link=1276429634/4#4 date=1276937884
Originally posted by 6F687A736C771F0 link=1276429634/3#3 date=1276935010
Has any one soaked the group head piston bore, the cromed one in sitric acid, as I am a bit worried about doing it?
Dont soak anything chrome plated in citric acid, it can damage the coating.Prob better to use coffee detergent , like youd use to backflush or soak portafilters
Hmmm, cant say I agree with that, given that a lot of back flushing products contain a high percentage of Citric acid, they work fine cleaning chrome plated portafilters as well and citric is recommended as a chrome cleaner here http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4730992_chrome-rust.html
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