Subject: espresso machine controller transformer failure B.F.C. ALA di VITTORIA 1GV EL 1 group - a.k.a. GRIMAC VITTORIA One Group - a.k.a. DIADEMA 1GV EL
The chances of this helping anyone is very remote since I expect not many people will have the same controller in their espresso machine - with the same fault - and also be willing to open up the controller and solder in new components. But you never know so I will post this in case it helps someone - and for my own future reference.
My espresso machine is a B.F.C. ALA di VITTORIA 1GV EL 1 group as described here: http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1238685253/0#0
A while ago my espresso machine had started failing. After being powered on for about 40 minutes, the element would power off and it would start beeping and the hot water tap button would start flashing. I had always assumed this meant that its water sensor was not detecting water in the boiler - even though the boiler had the correct amount of water. So I thought there was some problem with the wire that connects to the sensor - but I couldnt find anything wrong with that wire or anything near it really.
I was able to get a coffee out of it within the 40 minutes so I didnt worry too much but after a while the 40 minutes started dropping down to 30 minutes and less until it got down to 13 minutes before dying - no where near long enough for the machine to heat up for a decent espresso. Rather than trying to find somewhere to get it repaired I kind of just stopped using it for ages and made plunger coffee instead.
Anyway on the weekend I got curious and opened up the coffee brain - a "30 MICRO Z R/E". I might post a picture of its insides sometime. I noticed one main capacitor and I knew that one of the main things that often breaks in electronics is capacitors so I thought I would have a go at replacing that to see if it would fix the problem. Ive had the same fix work fixing a computer power supply. The original capacitor looked fine (not bulging or leaking) but it was worth a go changing it.
The capacitor was a RUS 35v 330uF (M) 105c (4Q) brown with white stripe. I found an awesome online supplier for electronic bits that sold quality japanese capacitors and ordered the following:
Manufacturer:
RUBYCON
Manufacturer Part No:
35RX30330MEFG10X16
RoHS : Yes
Description
CAPACITOR, 330UF, 35V
Capacitor Dielectric Type:Aluminium Electrolytic
Capacitance:330µF
Capacitance Tolerance:± 20%
Voltage Rating:35V DC
Series:RX30
Life Time @ Temperature:2000 hours @ 130°C
Height:16mm
Outer Diameter:10mm
Capacitor Case Style:Radial Leaded
No. of Pins:2
Mounting Type:Through Hole
Lead Spacing:5mm
Operating Temperature Range:-40°C to +130°C
AC Ripple Current:800mA
Applications:High Temperature
Body Diameter:10mm
External Length / Height:16mm
Operating Lifetime:4000h
Operating Temperature Max:130°C
Package / Case:Radial
Temperature Operating Min:-40°C
Terminal Type:Wire Ended
Tolerance +:20%
Tolerance -:20%
Voltage DC:35V
After replacing the capacitor I still had the same problem
When ordering the capacitor I was very surprised to find that the same supplier also had the same model sealed transformer that I had in the controller for only $11 so I picked one of those up as well - not thinking that I would need it. When I replaced the transformer with the new one I noticed that the controller did not heat up very much any more. It used to be so hot it was uncomfortable to touch but now it is cool. I didnt realise it was not supposed to be hot so I didnt realise the transformer was the problem. Seems that the transformer must have developed a fault that caused it to go out of spec and made it heat up way too much. Replacement transformer is:
Manufacturer:
MYRRA
Manufacturer Part No:
44123
RoHS : Yes
Description
TRANSFORMER 2VA 12V
Transformer Type:Encapsulated
Input Voltage:230V
Output Voltage Fixed:12V
Current Rating:167mA
Power Rating:2VA
Mounting Type:
Primary Voltages:230V
Secondary Current Nom:167mA
Secondary Power:2VA
Secondary Voltages:12V
So now it is all fixed and it only cost me less than $20. I am guessing if I just ordered a new controller it would have cost $300+ and I would not have been sure if that was what the problem was until it was replaced - an expensive experiment. Also I am not really sure where to buy one - maybe direct from BFC in Italy? I also guess that if I got the machine repaired professionally I would have been looking at maybe $500+ for parts and labour? So for a $20 fix that I did myself I am very happy!
disclaimer - dont try this unless you are safe at working with 240v electronics - it is dangerous!
fabcat
The chances of this helping anyone is very remote since I expect not many people will have the same controller in their espresso machine - with the same fault - and also be willing to open up the controller and solder in new components. But you never know so I will post this in case it helps someone - and for my own future reference.
My espresso machine is a B.F.C. ALA di VITTORIA 1GV EL 1 group as described here: http://coffeesnobs.com.au/YaBB.pl?num=1238685253/0#0
A while ago my espresso machine had started failing. After being powered on for about 40 minutes, the element would power off and it would start beeping and the hot water tap button would start flashing. I had always assumed this meant that its water sensor was not detecting water in the boiler - even though the boiler had the correct amount of water. So I thought there was some problem with the wire that connects to the sensor - but I couldnt find anything wrong with that wire or anything near it really.
I was able to get a coffee out of it within the 40 minutes so I didnt worry too much but after a while the 40 minutes started dropping down to 30 minutes and less until it got down to 13 minutes before dying - no where near long enough for the machine to heat up for a decent espresso. Rather than trying to find somewhere to get it repaired I kind of just stopped using it for ages and made plunger coffee instead.
Anyway on the weekend I got curious and opened up the coffee brain - a "30 MICRO Z R/E". I might post a picture of its insides sometime. I noticed one main capacitor and I knew that one of the main things that often breaks in electronics is capacitors so I thought I would have a go at replacing that to see if it would fix the problem. Ive had the same fix work fixing a computer power supply. The original capacitor looked fine (not bulging or leaking) but it was worth a go changing it.
The capacitor was a RUS 35v 330uF (M) 105c (4Q) brown with white stripe. I found an awesome online supplier for electronic bits that sold quality japanese capacitors and ordered the following:
Manufacturer:
RUBYCON
Manufacturer Part No:
35RX30330MEFG10X16
RoHS : Yes
Description
CAPACITOR, 330UF, 35V
Capacitor Dielectric Type:Aluminium Electrolytic
Capacitance:330µF
Capacitance Tolerance:± 20%
Voltage Rating:35V DC
Series:RX30
Life Time @ Temperature:2000 hours @ 130°C
Height:16mm
Outer Diameter:10mm
Capacitor Case Style:Radial Leaded
No. of Pins:2
Mounting Type:Through Hole
Lead Spacing:5mm
Operating Temperature Range:-40°C to +130°C
AC Ripple Current:800mA
Applications:High Temperature
Body Diameter:10mm
External Length / Height:16mm
Operating Lifetime:4000h
Operating Temperature Max:130°C
Package / Case:Radial
Temperature Operating Min:-40°C
Terminal Type:Wire Ended
Tolerance +:20%
Tolerance -:20%
Voltage DC:35V
After replacing the capacitor I still had the same problem

When ordering the capacitor I was very surprised to find that the same supplier also had the same model sealed transformer that I had in the controller for only $11 so I picked one of those up as well - not thinking that I would need it. When I replaced the transformer with the new one I noticed that the controller did not heat up very much any more. It used to be so hot it was uncomfortable to touch but now it is cool. I didnt realise it was not supposed to be hot so I didnt realise the transformer was the problem. Seems that the transformer must have developed a fault that caused it to go out of spec and made it heat up way too much. Replacement transformer is:
Manufacturer:
MYRRA
Manufacturer Part No:
44123
RoHS : Yes
Description
TRANSFORMER 2VA 12V
Transformer Type:Encapsulated
Input Voltage:230V
Output Voltage Fixed:12V
Current Rating:167mA
Power Rating:2VA
Mounting Type:
Primary Voltages:230V
Secondary Current Nom:167mA
Secondary Power:2VA
Secondary Voltages:12V
So now it is all fixed and it only cost me less than $20. I am guessing if I just ordered a new controller it would have cost $300+ and I would not have been sure if that was what the problem was until it was replaced - an expensive experiment. Also I am not really sure where to buy one - maybe direct from BFC in Italy? I also guess that if I got the machine repaired professionally I would have been looking at maybe $500+ for parts and labour? So for a $20 fix that I did myself I am very happy!
disclaimer - dont try this unless you are safe at working with 240v electronics - it is dangerous!
fabcat

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