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  • Faema D92/A-1 Card problem

    Hi all,
    I am in the final stages of refurbishing a Faema Due single group. Everything works brilliantly except for the manual start and stop buttons on the doser keypad (which is brand new). I unpeeled the membrane switches on the old one to discern which wires are required to complete the circuit to start a manual brew cycle and jumped those wires together directly on the control card with no result. So it appears a component has failed on the control card itself. I wonder if anyone knows of a solution whereby I could wire the keypad wires for start and stop to bypass the control card and energize/shut down the pump and three-way valve directly as the replacement card is hideously expensive, or even better if anyone has repaired cards before and could point to a component I could replace on the card to restore function.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    The volumetric dosing works?

    Since it appears to be a board capable of running a 3 group machine, try moving the cable from the dosing membrane to GR2 or GR3 on the control board, but it would also require rewiring the cable attached to CN1.

    BTW: Theres one of these on the bay right now
    Last edited by Jimmytheboot; 26 July 2013, 02:08 PM.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. Yes, the volumetric dosing works which is the puzzler. It can start and stop itself, but it won't allow you to. When I move the ribbon cable from GR1 to GR2 or 3, the pump just comes on and stays on until I shut the machine off. The 3-way valve doesn't open. CN1 is the connection at the top of the board with 4 red wires. How would I reconfigure them to make this work?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by skydragondave View Post
        Thanks for the reply. Yes, the volumetric dosing works which is the puzzler. It can start and stop itself, but it won't allow you to. When I move the ribbon cable from GR1 to GR2 or 3, the pump just comes on and stays on until I shut the machine off. The 3-way valve doesn't open. CN1 is the connection at the top of the board with 4 red wires. How would I reconfigure them to make this work?

        With the cable on GR2 the pump comes on when you press the manual button or as soon as the machines powered?
        Based on having 5 relays I believe the outputs of CN1 are pump, fill solenoid, gr1, gr2, gr3 solenoid and neutral. So the wire currently on the gr1 solenoid connection would be moved to the gr2 spot. But that won't fix the issue with the pump not stopping with the manual button.

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        • #5
          Weird. Ran the machine up to temperature and nothing works, not even the autofill. The only things working are the heating element, green light, and pump/solenoid switches on the water dispenser. Shut off the heat and switched it to position 1 and the autofill randomly kicked-in after ten minutes idle. Now the automatic dose keys work again, but still nothing on manual start/stop. What the hell?

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          • #6
            With ribbon cable plugged into GR2 the pump comes on when I hit any of the volumetric dose keys. Start and Stop still do not work.
            CN1 is a 6-socket terminal and facing the machine like in my picture, the wires are:
            #1 socket: red -7
            #2 socket: blank
            #3 socket: red -6
            #4 socket: blank
            #5 socket: red 10
            #6 socket: red -8
            I have thought about tapping into the switches on the hot water dispenser lever, but as you mention stopping as well as programming is out of the question this way. But after getting up to heat everything but the hot water switches quit working anyway. I've turned it back on to heat again to see if the keypad drops again.
            Edit: Up to temp, ran group, steam and hot water, and nothing's dropped yet. I wonder what happened?

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            • #7
              So after tracing all wires out I've determined that -6 is the feed for the three-way valve. Moving the ribbon cable from group one socket to two and three, I determined which relays are meant for which solenoids, and was able to move -6 wire from socket #3 to #2 to allow the machine to work on the group two socket on the board. However manual start and stop still do not work!

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              • #8
                Definitely a brain teaser, by moving the cables different components on the board are being utilised but the same problem exists.

                Does the stop button work when doing volumetric? In a pinch you could set the double lungo to be a few hundred mills, move the manual start wire onto the double lungo position on GR2. Nobody uses double lungo do they?

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                • #9
                  Hi Jimmy,
                  The manual start/stop buttons do not work and have never worked. The pins on the control card for start and stop are chained together on the back of the board, and on the front appear to go into one of the ICs. By switching the ribbon cable to group two and three plugs, a different relay is used for the three-way valve. So you can then move wire -6 to the corresponding pin on CN1 to follow that relay output. However, the start and stop buttons are still handled by the same trace on the front of the board.
                  I just got off the phone with Faema Canada. The service manager has flatly refused to provide any advice. I am now SCREWED.
                  I just finished refurbishing this machine, having tested it as much as I could with a seized pump before starting, and am now looking at either a $1200 card or the machine being a total loss because the doses are off and I can't program it. Is there anyone else in the Faema service network I could call?

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                  • #10
                    Sent you a PM

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                    • #11
                      Thank you!

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                      • #12
                        The new card cured it!
                        I don't get my luck with control cards but I've been having a lot of problems! At least this miracle card only cost just over $100. Seller was A+...

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                        • #13
                          Does anyone know where to set the dip switches to set the dose volumes? Old card, left was up and right was down.... new card shipped with both switches down... or are these switches for something else?

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                          • #14
                            Hi there all

                            I have just purchased a faema due and the transformer on the circuit board needs to be replaced. does anyone know where I can purchase one or if anyone can tell me where I can get a circuit diagram to find out what the voltage output is on the transformer, it is 240v in.
                            cheers Bill

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                            • #15
                              It should say on the body of the transformer what the voltage is. It will probably be 18VAC.

                              Make sure when you get the replacement transformer that it's VA matches or exceeds the current transformer's VA. This will also be printed on the body of the transformer.

                              You can get new transformers from RS Components, most popular brand is Myrra. RS transformers tend to have twin outputs which necessitates some additional soldering to make it work.
                              Element 14 is another company who generally have a drop-in replacement transformer but at a higher price, and they charge shipping.

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