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Boema 2 group lever

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  • #16
    You don't have to need something as cool as a custom gasket cutter.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by JMcCee View Post
      What's a gasket cutter from Japan look like and why do u need it?
      Olfa cutter : #90B Heavy-Duty Compass Circle Cutter

      Because I didn't know how else to cut a perfect circle in Klingersil 4430 ... not even sure this will do the trick ... but I hope so.

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      • #18
        Things starting to get a bit more serious now ... re-assembly commenced ... but still waiting for tools and parts to be able to make real progress.

        Interesting to look back at where I started (see fourth photo in this post).

        If anyone can point me in the direction of some rubber seals (see picture for example) for the boiler level sight glass (9mm ID) I"d be grateful. The seals were toast and I doubt the dodgy o-ring configuration I came up with will seal. From what I can gather the CMA/Astoria set up is for 11mm glass tube so unfortunately the commonly available gaskets are no good.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by towe0609; 25 March 2019, 01:29 PM. Reason: Big difference between ID and OD!

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        • #19
          The sight glass seals for the little home pavoni levers are 15 x 9 x 5mm silicon. Could that work?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by kofekitt View Post
            The sight glass seals for the little home pavoni levers are 15 x 9 x 5mm silicon. Could that work?
            They look like they could be just the ticket ... thanks again Mike.

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            • #21
              Not quite sure how to interpret the results of this test ... but I look forward to the day I can replicate it!

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJDc9BLl_5M

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              • #22
                Silicone seals arrived and installed.

                I’ve discovered that one lever only operates in full range of motion with brass (seal section) unscrewed a few turns from the pistons ‘arm’. Ie the spring is slightly less compressed. Is there a ‘set up’ procedure for the pistons?
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  Hi again, did you use the 130mm or 140mm springs?

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                  • #24
                    New stainless 130mm springs (700735-x)

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                    • #25
                      Maybe put a spacer on the shaft so piston doesn't screw on as far. As long as piston isn't sticking out of the bore, it's fine. Bottom of piston should be approx flush with bottom of bore, have a pic?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by kofekitt View Post
                        Bottom of piston should be approx flush with bottom of bore, have a pic?
                        Thanks ... I'll 'pack' the space with a washer ... but I doubt the piston will turn on the shaft anyway with the big spring holding it firmly in place.

                        I've already installed the shower screens, and at $20 a pop I don't want to risk damaging it trying to remove ... so no ability to check how flush with bottom of bore unfortunately. Might have to cross my fingers on that one.

                        I should have studied it more closely, but when the bore is up (ie. spring compressed) fully, I assume it is above the water inlet point to the chamber. But what are the small holes in the base of the piston for? Are they just to slow the pace of water pushing against the seals when the piston is released? Or do they have some function associated with the inlet?

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                        • #27
                          The holes in the piston are to allow water flow through and too 'energise' the seals (make the seal edge flare out and work better)

                          Are the shower screens the toothed variety? If you push in the middle (with the piston raised), they pop into a concave shape and are easy to remove. Same for installing - pop them into concave shape, hold in position, and poke a wooden dowel down the bore to pop back into convex shape

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                          • #28
                            Cut a boiler gasket using the new gasket cutter which worked well. Waiting for stainless fasteners, but put it together with mild steel bolts as a test run ... lookin' good!

                            Any reason not to mount the new pressurestat directly to the boiler? Previously it was mounted to the frame via copper pipe with compression fittings etc ... but I selected a pressurestat with the right sized fitting so fitting directly to the boiler was an option. I can also make up a pipe to mount it away from the boiler if there is a reason to do so.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #29
                              Best to keep the p/stat mounted away from the boiler so as to avoid accelerated degradation of the electrical and plastic components of the device...

                              Mal.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Dimal View Post
                                Best to keep the p/stat mounted away from the boiler so as to avoid accelerated degradation of the electrical and plastic components of the device...

                                Mal.
                                OK ... thanks.

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