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If you have spare shower screen, you can also bend the edges of the existing screen down so it looks like a taco, then use it to turn the screw out . Take care though, and if not sure, take it somewhere
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Thanks — that’s actually a great idea! Not going to try it until I have a plan B if I can’t get it to spin out that way since if it doesn’t work I won’t be able to use the machine until I can bring it somewhere to get it out (plan B)…Comment
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Sounds to me from the words Tony wrote...That the thread has stripped inside the g/h and is spinning freely.Originally posted by kofekitt View Post
May be better to place in the hands of an experienced tech who can -
1/ safely remove the bolt with minimal impact.
2/ either cut a new thread (larger diameter ?) or if possible engineer a helicoil replacement s/s thread.this then would allow the OEM original screw / bolt replacement to be refitted. And as they are much stronger, likely overcome any possibility of this happening in future.
Keep us posted on the outcome Tony..
GLComment
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No, it just sounds like the inside of the socket head cap screw has rounded.
Go to a good tool store and buy a proper screw extractor, NOT an easy-out.
Then use an impact driver (manual or cordless).
or
Take it to a service center.Comment
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Thanks guys — correct, not spinning freely, rather not moving at all. What I was trying to say is that if I use the “taco” method”, I am worried the screen may ultimately either rip off or spin around under the stuck screw since it’s in there so damn tight. But, as long as I can identify a good service center I can take it too if the taco method fails, not much downside in trying.. I’m thinking, having tried and failed with ez-out and torx and other bits of various sizes and configurations, I should first try and cut a slot with a dremel tool and try a flat head and if that doesn’t work second try the taco method. And then third go to a service center.Comment
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So its not 'stripped' ala thread. But Burred the inside ('contact edges') of an Allen Headed Bolt...Yes?Originally posted by Tony163 View Post
I have seen / handled / played with a few R9one's But never needed to look up n under the showerscreen / grouphead.
So You are talking about the showerscreen retaining bolt?
Or....
One of the Saturated grouphead retaining bolts. Ala the bolts! that bolt it together? As in most if not all saturated heads bolt together.
And yes for a trade mechanic of to many decades I do know my hexhead bolts from my allen head from my torque head, phillips, tek, posidrive, straight slotted screwhead.
Post up a pic. Depends on what room available to access said bolt.
I wouldn't trust cheap easi outs / extractors as the shank size is likely to be to small to handle the tension on that bolt....as its shown atm it has quite some tension on it.
A n d if you snap that.....orf.... the problem ratchets up significantly.
Go to a quality tool shop. Get the right size allen key I N a socket drive (1/2in or 3/8). Assume you have a socket drive bar of 9in or larger.
Once the allen key socket is in the bolt head -
- Give it 2-3 sharp wraps with a hammer. The shock often helps 'releases' a little of the bolt tension.
- now when trying to loosen bolt with socket drive D O Not force it. Feel if it is going to release first - Without damaging further the inside of the allen head further.
- If thats remains the case then G E T an appropriately large quality pair of Vice Grips. Use these with the socket drive in unison.
GL.
* Im thinking Your better off taking it to a quality Rocket service centre! Or better still an engineering shop.
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One question (and apologies if I missed it) but why are you removing the shower screen? Os this part of the fix for the whistle sound?
As others have said I would be taking it to someone that knows what they are doing and have the tools to do it correctly to save any further problems.
Good luckComment
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I wonder if it would be easier to remove the group head first.
I love fiddling with stuff like this but for a machine this expensive I'd take it to the service centre, so long as they don't charge for a new group head.
As for the remover,
Something like this.
https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/gr...SABEgIyofD_BwE
or this
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/screw...E&gclsrc=aw.dsComment
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Thanks all! I was finally able to remove it by cutting a slot into the screw head with a fein multimaster and then use a chisel to turn it and it finally budged and then came out. It was quite a pain but I learned my lesson to be very careful to not turn screws in the wrong direction!
The reason I wanted to remove it was too fold. First, I wanted to upgrade to a better ISM shower screen and Second, I would have to replace the shower screen periodically regardless and I work never be able to do this if I didn’t deal with the stuck screw.
I wanted to attach a few images but I can’t figure out how to do that.Comment
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Toys! I must have new toys!!!Comment
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Tony, just a couple of thoughts.
The retaining screw seems to be a button head cap screw.(flat topped, internal hex).
I regularly see folks having problems removing them from motorcycle heads, either for carbs or exhausts.
I don't know what Hex driver you used to remove but, while I love my ball head hex keys, they regularly chew out button heads.
Buy a good hex key set or, if you have a good socket set, a good set of hex sockets.
It is always good to have an excuse to buy good tools.
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Re: IMS vs stock shower screen (now that I can comparatively test post-stripped screw extraction) I can report that in my experience the stock shower screen optically appears to provide much greater water distribution as well as consistently result in more even and better tasting extractions. Good to know the Rocket folks do things for a reason!Comment
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Very interesting Tony.
I recall seeing the R9-1 shower screen with its comparatively large "dead zone" in the middle and mentally comparing it with the fuss made about "nano" screens, puck screens, paper tops/bottoms/middles/sandwiches.
It reminded me of me olde Gaggia Classic.
Molykote is better than snake oil. -
As always, can you taste the difference in a blind test? If not, it's all speculation isn't it?
I suspect that the reality is that nano screens are more about group hygiene than anything which ends up in the cup.
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I don’t think that dead spot is so unusual — many machines that have shower screens with no dead spot have a similar dead spot directly under the shower screen… anyway, for sure doesn’t seem to be a liability on this machineComment
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