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Plumbed in , but regulated to 2 bar as per factory instructions.
Would have have liked to get the Wemo as it’s got a slightly higher amp rating than the TP-Link but it would appear that they’re not making the 240v ones anymore.
Trust me, you don't want Wemo now that Belkin have deserted it. I have two Wemo LED bulbs and they drive me nuts. The TP-Link switch on Alex is fine however...
Machine has been back to supplier and had a 1.5 upgrade !
It can now run at the higher steam temp and therefore pressure of about 2bar at start of steaming but due to an incorrectly supplied PID it cannot currently run in dual heating mode. This will be updated at my first service in a few months time.
The increased steam pressure is awesome, I can now produce the quality micro foam I was looking for. But in brew boiler priority mode the recovery when making a number of milk based drinks is a bit slow. So still keen on running in dual heater mode as in my opinion a dual boiler machine should.
The supplier has a nice setup that can measure the load on the circuit that the machine is plugged into. So when it gets its upgrade I will have them test the true max load when heating up in dual heater mode with the pump running. This will be the safest way to determine if a 15amp circuit upgrade will be necessary and I guess I will then have to address the importance of the wifi plug to me.
If your electrician installs a dedicated circuit for the 15A outlet there's a number of options to control it. You can even have a set up where a normal WiFi switch can make it switch.
I'm curious about the "incorrectly supplied" PID , as that is how the AU market upgrade PIDS are supplied (not able to heat both boilers)
Have you been told this is something Profitec/ECM intend to change and offer on future PIDS? Will it be a new unit, or can your new version PID be flashed or upgraded to offer this feature? It will be handy to know for owners who are put off the upgrade by the loss of dual heating
If your electrician installs a dedicated circuit for the 15A outlet there's a number of options to control it. You can even have a set up where a normal WiFi switch can make it switch.
Oh really. That sounds awesome. Can you elaborate at all so I can point my sparkie in the right direction. He’s a little on the old school side so might not be aware of this new wifi kit 🙂
I'm curious about the "incorrectly supplied" PID , as that is how the AU market upgrade PIDS are supplied (not able to heat both boilers)
Have you been told this is something Profitec/ECM intend to change and offer on future PIDS? Will it be a new unit, or can your new version PID be flashed or upgraded to offer this feature? It will be handy to know for owners who are put off the upgrade by the loss of dual heating
Not really sure what the difference was but think it was a PID for a different model as he mentioned something about how the timer was working wrong so robbed the PID out of his demo Pro600 for me to get the higher pressure feature.
My previous V1 PID could be run in dual heater mode as this is not locked out here in NZ. You could try contacting him to see if he’ll sell the new V2 PID configured to be able to run in dual heating mode to you in Australia seen as we run the same voltage. Would be easy to ship from NZ to Australia.
Chris Uren
p.s. The extra pressure from the V2 PID is awesome. Such a good roll achieved.
Last edited by Javaphile; 9 March 2019, 06:09 PM.
Reason: Commercial link removed
Oh really. That sounds awesome. Can you elaborate at all so I can point my sparkie in the right direction. He’s a little on the old school side so might not be aware of this new wifi kit
Depends how you want to do it. Simplest way is to have your choice of 10A rated WiFi switch to switch a contactor. The contactor will be rated at at least the circuit breaker rating or more. You then hook the contactor 240VAC coil to a 10A 3 pin plug (if your chosen WiFi switch takes plugs) or can wire it directly to the WiFi switch if it has terminals. Ideally this would be all mounted in your switchboard (need to check WiFi reception inside your switchboard first though), or could be mounted in the roof directly above where the power point (or other nearby place), though this makes maintenance more tricky. A contactor needs to be mounted in an enclosure of some kind (switchboard or is own junction box, if it's own box get one with a clear lid so you can see if it's pulled in our not without opening it). Mounting it closer to the power point would mean if your electrician decided your particular situation didn't require a dedicated circuit you wouldn't need one (dedicated circuits are almost always a very good idea, however the 2007 edition of AS3000 changed this requirement from being required 100% of the time to most of the time). For longevity I would recommend a 3 pole motor rated contactor. You then take the active and loop it through all 3 poles so that each pole is only switching 1/3 of the load.
There may be other WiFi switches rated at 15A, I haven't looked into it. With a contractor you can use whatever type of WiFi switch you like, as the contactor coil will be way, way under 1 amp.
I assume your electrician will be familiar with contractors etc but feel free to shoot me a PM if you want any more info. Something like a Sprecher + Schuh CA71610240VAC will do nicely.
Depends how you want to do it. Simplest way is to have your choice of 10A rated WiFi switch to switch a contactor. The contactor will be rated at at least the circuit breaker rating or more. You then hook the contactor 240VAC coil to a 10A 3 pin plug (if your chosen WiFi switch takes plugs) or can wire it directly to the WiFi switch if it has terminals. Ideally this would be all mounted in your switchboard (need to check WiFi reception inside your switchboard first though), or could be mounted in the roof directly above where the power point (or other nearby place), though this makes maintenance more tricky. A contactor needs to be mounted in an enclosure of some kind (switchboard or is own junction box, if it's own box get one with a clear lid so you can see if it's pulled in our not without opening it). Mounting it closer to the power point would mean if your electrician decided your particular situation didn't require a dedicated circuit you wouldn't need one (dedicated circuits are almost always a very good idea, however the 2007 edition of AS3000 changed this requirement from being required 100% of the time to most of the time). For longevity I would recommend a 3 pole motor rated contactor. You then take the active and loop it through all 3 poles so that each pole is only switching 1/3 of the load.
There may be other WiFi switches rated at 15A, I haven't looked into it. With a contractor you can use whatever type of WiFi switch you like, as the contactor coil will be way, way under 1 amp.
I assume your electrician will be familiar with contractors etc but feel free to shoot me a PM if you want any more info. Something like a Sprecher + Schuh CA71610240VAC will do nicely.
Thanks for the description. Much appreciated. Totally understand what your suggesting as I used to muck around with high powered car stereos back in the day and we had to use similar setups to control high draw amps etc.
Please let us know if you managed to get PID-upgraded Pro 700 to heat both boiler simultanioulsly.
Hi
No unfortunately after the machine had gone back for a fourth time only to be returned with a scratched front panel and a pid controller that still could not do dual heating both myself and the supplier were a bit over the whole thing and had a small falling out over the lack of care taken with my new machine due to the scratches which are in a very difficult area to polish out.
I am pretty happy with where it is at with the extra steam pressure though.
So...
Correct me if I am wrong...
The choice is either old PID with lower steam pressure but simultaneous boiler heating or new PID with 2 bar pressure and single boiler at a time heating.
Right?
So...
Correct me if I am wrong...
The choice is either old PID with lower steam pressure but simultaneous boiler heating or new PID with 2 bar pressure and single boiler at a time heating.
Right?
Yes, that’s my options at the moment and I went with the 2 bar pressure, single boiler at a time option.
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